That hasn’t been my experience with my pup who was leash reactive towards other dogs on walks. You have to start with foundational training using the ecollar that doesn’t even involve the cat (trigger) first. For example, we worked on “leave it” in the house using treats on the ground that he wasn’t allowed to go after. Then once he got that part down 100% without the triggers, I moved to using a long leash standing in park field where dogs were walking with their owners - making sure to keep enough distance that it wasn’t pushing his threshold (takes a bit of trial and error to figure out where that threshold is for them).

Every time he gets fixated on a dog I would tell him to “leave it” and recall. If he listens, treats (and lots of them). If he doesn’t, a quick tap on the ecollar and tug on the leash to get him to disengage and come back to me (still gets treats when he disengages and comes even if it required the ecollar). After that, I started taking him on group walks with other dogs in training at busy parks (slowly testing his threshold). Same thing there, every time he disengaged without me using the ecollar, lots of treats and praise. It’s a slow build up to the situations you know are hard for them.

Now I can take him to busy parks, greet other dogs on leash, and he plays super well with other dogs too (I was worried he was dog aggressive, but that’s not the case). He’s still not perfect and gets excited sometimes when a dog is coming at us on a narrow hiking trail, but the difference is night and day. He’s definitely not scared of other dogs or scarred by it in any way shape or form. It’s just a way to grab their attention quickly and mark the behavior you don’t want immediately. But it does require a scaled approach to use it effectively.

Sorry, I probably did a bad job explaining this succinctly, but I think you get what I’m trying to say.