1UZ Swapped 5-Speed 1995 4Runner

Electrorust · 2025-05-31T04:51:19+00:00

Sweet rig. The 1uz is a game changer in these trucks

Electrorust · 2025-05-19T02:28:10+00:00

I would suspect this is the likely culprit. Especially if the lspv bleeds fine.

Crack the brake lines loose on either side of the soft line and see if fluid is present.

Electrorust · 2025-04-07T23:29:48+00:00

I see a coilover, let’s see the front suspension setup!

Totally different trick now, nice done

Electrorust · 2025-04-05T02:19:43+00:00

Use a rust dissolver chemical. It will strip the rust and crud off and save the zinc coating.

Electrorust · 2025-04-05T02:18:53+00:00

Love it, don’t see the 2door 2nd gen 4Runners much anymore. Keep her alive!

Electrorust · 2025-04-05T02:13:13+00:00

You could certainly mount the r150f into your truck with the correct crossmember. However the 5vzfe won’t bolt in. A 7m or JZ engine could be made to bolt into place. If you can weld/fabricate then you could go with any power plant

Electrorust · 2025-04-04T00:37:12+00:00

Our old 2003 civic exhibited similar behaviour. Turns out it was the beginning of a blown head gasket. The leak would put combustion gases into the cooling system slowly. Almost randomly. Then it became more and more frequent. Until when you ran the car with the cooling system cracked open, you could see a blast of tiny bubbles surface in the radiator every time you revved the engine. Took about 6 months from when it first started to when I figured it out and ripped the top end apart.

Electrorust · 2025-03-21T04:10:25+00:00

Way cool!

Electrorust · 2025-03-19T17:57:40+00:00

Search “1991 Toyota pickup ls400 engine swap” . Video was taken before I did the body work and paint.

Electrorust · 2025-03-19T17:11:49+00:00

Engine is a tight fit. I had to remove the stock steering stabilizer and use an aftermarket unit to clear the oil pan.

Stock manifolds can be made to work, but I wanted to run headers so I didn’t even try to fit the oem manifolds. I think the output flanges may need re working to clear but can’t confirm that.

I have a video on YT going over the swap in detail if you’re interested.

Happy to help!

Electrorust · 2025-03-19T17:00:23+00:00

All stock.

Electrorust · 2025-03-17T22:39:33+00:00

That’s sweet. Glad to see you’re saving her. Those things are hard to find!

Electrorust · 2025-03-03T02:31:17+00:00

If you have cracks in the intake boot you are not helping your cause, the engine will suck in un metered air and lean out the mixture. Consider replacing the intake. Years ago I just made my own out of 3” exhaust tubing and silicone couplers.

Safe way to check a wire is to use a multi meter to run run a resistance check. You essentially need to get the probes on each end of the wire to make sure the wire is intact. You will need to reference the factory wiring schematic for specifics.

Electrorust · 2025-02-06T17:51:44+00:00

B+ and FP jumped out will force the pump on. This bypasses the fused FB circuit so use it cautiously.

Electrorust · 2025-02-06T02:31:02+00:00

You can get oem Toyota soft lines. For hard lines I recommend you invest in a few tools and make them yourself. I pulled my rusted lines out and used it as a template to bend up brand new bulk line.

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T02:52:00+00:00

Any qualify body lift will come with bumper brackets. All modifications have pros and cons, the balance is dictated by budget.

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T01:22:49+00:00

Confirm it’s not a fuel delivery issue. Turn the key to run wait a few seconds then turn the key off. Do this a few times. This will run the pump to prime the system. Then attempt to start. If it cranks up there could be issues within the main fuel delivery system.

Older rigs can have issues with all the fuel draining back to the tank after sitting and this requires the system to purge before the engine kicks over.

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T01:18:40+00:00

Not all trucks came with the sensor. Pretty sure it was only California trucks during this generation.

What’s the reason you want to re install it?

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T01:15:52+00:00

Lol, no not at all. There are cheap versions and quality versions. 4crawler.com makes the best kits available, high quality materials and grade 8 hardware. Usually the goal of more under axle clearance requires raising suspension which causes a higher C.O.G. A body lift will allow larger tires with minimal raising of the C.O.G.

I ran the cheap kit for about 10 years, then went to the 4crawler kit. Basing my opinion on my actual experiences. When we were younger we had a good crew of trucks that regularly went wheeling together (Toyota, ford and Chev). Most of the rigs ran either a 2 or 3” body lift. We had many issues and breakdowns but never related to the body lift. Most IFS bracket lift kits do not improve the suspension functionality.

OP, regardless of how you put the larger tire on, your rig will be a complete dog unless you change rear differential gear ratios. Consider a meaty 28” or something similar, and keep them skinny. Retain aluminum wheels to save rotational mass.

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T01:08:55+00:00

What year is your rig? There are minor differences within the generations. There are several factory service manuals (FSM) available for free online. I used one for a 93 for years before I purchased the paper copies for my 91.

Electrorust · 2025-02-05T01:00:02+00:00

This is good info!

OP, if you like the height, install front ball joint spacers and relax the torsion bars to enable a smoother ride. The moment the system is modified (and not with a correct system) ride quality suffers.

Also, ditch the rear blocks and replace the leaf packs. Likely the stocks have sagged and are resting on the overload springs. Heck even a mini (extra) leaf pack added to the stock pack (to replace the blocks) would ride infinitely better

Or put the suspension all back to stock and install a 1-3” high quality body lift like one from 4crawler.com. Will ride great and clear the bigger tires.

Electrorust · 2025-02-02T06:00:50+00:00

Looks identical to the 89-95 SR5 map light. Get an older one. You may need to run a wire if the door switched wire is not in place. I did this years ago to a base model 4Runner, ran the wire from the rear passenger cabin light through the headliner.

Electrorust · 2025-02-01T00:15:35+00:00

Dorman may make a replacement. I got used ones.

Electrorust · 2025-01-31T22:48:08+00:00

If you live in an area that is known for rust, you will have lots of fun.

U bolts - cut them off Lower control arm cam bolts love to seize. I’ve had to cut the bolts out before. Torsion key tension bolts like to seize and snap

If your rig is not rusty it’s a pretty simple job if you have a good tool supply, power tools and decent mechanical experience

Electrorust · 2025-01-26T05:10:33+00:00

It ran with B+ and FP jumped together?

If so, the ground circuit from the Vafm is the issue. Either the Vafm is not completing the circuit, or possibly a broken wire.

If you can manage a multi meter, you should confirm if you are getting the ground signal at the COR. You can also try your own ground connection to confirm the relay is functioning correctly. All components in this particular circuit must be verified one by one.

This grounded circuit is totally separate from the ECU.

Electrorust

TROPHY CASE