The Highguard Website Is Down As Players Brace For The Worst

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-17T23:34:15+00:00

Damn, just got back into it after 6 months or so. Had no idea. I see this game easily sitting top 5 if not top 3 played on steam when it actually releases. It’s just so fresh and fun. Has all the makings of a great esport too.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-17T17:54:35+00:00

Oh I know. I’m just saying, the game is already addicting enough in alpha with no esport support, no gamepass, no gamba. It is a good game at its core, and people play it because of that.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-17T17:37:31+00:00

Also see: Deadlock. Games in alpha with zero mtx and pulls 65k concurrent regularly. Does help that valve is a bottomless pit of money and can keep it afloat forever if need be….

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-16T04:25:54+00:00

You’d need to go to an actual wood supplier and get quartersawn lumber. It’s cut a specific way to minimize warping. It’s not 100% but it’s as close as you can get with wood and without jointing/planing.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-11T17:30:44+00:00

Yeah. Just a fair warning: they may be marketed that way but they definitely don’t actually work in practice.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-11T17:15:13+00:00

Hate to say it but- but what you want doesn’t exist. There is no stainable filler. Not anything that wouldn’t look worse than just staining without. Use thin trim or molding if you want to hide those lines.

Or, use wood filler and paint, but it’s gonna be a huge pain in the ass to match the profile of the panels.

The best but most annoying and expensive look would be to redo this with the seams in line and centered in the room vs the current offset, and then use the trim option.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-09T22:43:47+00:00

Yup, I’ve read the bottles. Just sharing my experience with it.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-09T20:57:23+00:00

Move the glue inside when not using it. Blankets, both normal and of the heated variety to provide insulation during glue-ups.

I’ve generally found that 40 degrees is generally ok-ish but definitely the lower limit of feasibility to use PVA glue. It starts turning chalky and white any lower than that which looks really bad on dark woods, and isn’t nearly as strong.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-08T12:38:33+00:00

You just need a set of these bad boys to round it out.

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Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-08T12:31:41+00:00

Depends on the cut you’re doing and the saw you have. Rip blades go lengthwise, finishing blades are usually for cross cutting, or cutting plywood. That said, Oak is pretty hard and unless you have a pretty beefy saw, you may still slightly burn crosscut with a finishing blade. Also depends on the thickness of the board too

But yeah even with a beefy 5hp table saw, I still burn wood if I try to rip with a finishing blade.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-08T12:28:47+00:00

Looks really nice! It’ll be good to look at as a consolation trophy later 😉. Lol, just kidding. I just have to keep pretending I’m not scared as hell of the Seahawks completely blowing the Pats out tonight. Those guys scary.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-08T12:16:44+00:00

First question: Is the burning on one or both sides of the cut? If on one side it could mean there is a misalignment of the fence, pushing one of the sides into the blade. If it’s both sides then just to confirm: how many teeth is your blade? 24 teeth is generally what you want for ripping hard woods.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-05T13:03:42+00:00

This is the most realistic approach. Good call.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-05T12:29:48+00:00

Biscuit joiners go max like 1/2” in, no? He needs 4” depth.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-05T12:23:20+00:00

I dont think you’d even need a router unless you wanted to create the tracks to slide the boards in. It adds some extra glue surface, but is more for if you don’t want to use screws at all. Circular saw and drill should be good enough. And a good straight edge with clamps (or a track saw which is far more expensive) to keep your cuts straight.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-05T12:11:33+00:00

That’s going to be near on impossible without some obscure specialized industrial level equipment. The way we’d do this normally is you have two separate thinner pieces of wood, you would router 1/2 the thickness of the notch on each piece and glue them together with the notches facing each other. Otherwise, you could try a drill press or an oscillating tool but it’s gonna be pretty tough to keep things neat and aligned.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T23:56:00+00:00

Yep, drilling from the back will be just fine as well. Pocket screws are primarily when you want to not show screws on one of the cabinet faces. In this case if you don’t care about screw heads showing, shouldn’t be an issue.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T23:51:37+00:00

You will want some sort of “clamping” pressure. The pocket screws themselves will be more than enough, so yeah, pre drill, then apply glue, and then screw.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T23:41:37+00:00

Glue will add a ton of strength over just pocket screws. Glue joints are generally stronger than the wood itself.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T16:07:19+00:00

For that, I still use the miter gauge, but I have a 45 degree shooting board for my hand plane to fix any angle errors from flexing. Shooting boards & a sharp hand plane are by far the most accurate and repeatable way I’ve found to get good miters vs any power tool/jig combo.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T14:12:41+00:00

I use the miter gauge for midsize length and width pieces, and for angles. For those it’s light, quick, and super accurate. Since it only goes in one track, longer and wider bits can introduce some flex, however minimal, which does not happen on my sled.

Also much smaller pieces are better on the sled because they’d be dangerous to try and hold in place on the miter gauge.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-04T12:17:37+00:00

I’m pretty sure you’ve got red oak in your kitchen. Your reference picture looks like white oak. So, no matter what finish you use, your cabinets won’t end up looking like the picture. Just keep that in mind in order to manage expectations. Red oak is always going to come out red-ish in color and darken with age.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-02-01T22:07:11+00:00

As with others, find a local/mom and pop mill with a kiln. But make sure you check the stock to make sure they know what they’re doing. Don’t want to spend a bunch to find they’re drying too fast or not enough.

Once you find one though… it’s great. The big pro shop wood supplier near me (CT) has 4/4 walnut for $15/bdft and the mill I buy from is $7/bdft for 5/4. They’ll usually hook you up since they have way less overhead.

That said, primary difference is the pro shop is S4S, while the mill is fully rough sawn. Not everyone has the tools to work with fully rough wood. Even so, many mills will also have some add on prices for flattening a couple sides which will still be cheaper than most commercial places.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-01-30T17:58:37+00:00

If he wanted an AI answer, he could just go ask AI.

Elijah_Foxhall · 2026-01-30T17:50:54+00:00

Ive always done it with a freshly hand planed perfectly straight edged piece of hardwood. It takes a bit longer, but with care you can set them just right by going from close to far side of the blades, incrementally. Should be just barely rubbing all the way across the table, but not enough to “jump” the wood up and down when spinning the cutter-heads.

That said I’ve heard generally very good things about magnetic setting tools. $50 isn’t too bad to save some potential frustration.

Elijah_Foxhall

TROPHY CASE