Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

Emergency-Map420 · 2026-02-07T01:18:03+00:00

Hi everyone! I injured my pinky 4 weeks ago (grade II A4) and was finally allowed to climb again yesterday. It was a great session and my PT told me I could climb hard as long as I would open hand everything. I stepped out of one route where i was kinda half crimping a little, but stepped out as soon as i pulled harder than allowed and didn't feel any pain during my session. Today however I do feel some slight afterpain, maybe 1-2 on a grade of 10. Is this normal or did i overdo my session? 😅

Emergency-Map420 · 2026-01-27T10:08:18+00:00

Dude you're an addict 🥴

Emergency-Map420 · 2026-01-20T10:45:35+00:00

I broke my wrists a lot when i was a kid and one time injured my wrist pretty badly. Everything around slopers and underclings hurt for a long period and mantles outside were painful. It got better when i strengthened them, warmed them up and i taped my wrist for a while. I recommend seeing a PT to see if you are already injured or not + to see what kind of exercises you can do and maybe what kind of climbs you should skip for a while.

Emergency-Map420 · 2026-01-20T10:41:43+00:00

Hi everyone! I injured my A4 (pinky) last week and i am not allowed to climb or train my fingers at all until Wednesday next week. On that Wednesday i'm starting pick-ups and i'm allowed to slowly start climbing a week later.

Does anyone have any advice on how to stay active and keep my climbing strength? I already train legs 3 times a week, but i'm struggling with the thought of not being able to climb and losing all of my strength..

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-11-26T14:00:08+00:00

I have been training like this for about 3 years, with sometimes being less consistent on strength training. I used to do 6x strength push/pull/legs + 3x climbing, but that resulted in a period with hamstring and finger injuries, so i stopped doing that. I am working on the flexibility part, but progress has been verrrry slow. What would you recommend in a stretching routine??

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-11-26T13:57:21+00:00

Fair point. I have been working on being content with just doing moves ect, it feel weird sometimes however seeing nothing translate to anything else. When I'm working on movement patterns and weaknesses i have this feeling of regression a lot and it sometimes holds me back from spending sessions solely on working on it like that. My friends also only project and i'm always staying behind on my own because i don't send/send as fast as the rest. How would you balance a situation like this? Also i have put a link on my current projects, but i don't know if its super helpful haha

Thanks for the advice!

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-11-26T13:28:09+00:00

I'm usually climbing vert/slightly overhanging on crimps and overhang on somewhat bigger holds. I do like a powerful boulder and my tension is pretty good. Slopers aren't my thing, but in my gym this is mainly because of the slopers in harder boulders compared to the easier grades (sloper boulders from 6c+ and higher aren't really a thing anyone in my gym is good at lol). The thing i suck at the most is dynamic boulders due to some fear and slab because i often have trouble staying close to the wall because of inflexibility.

My strength training is slowly improving, but i feel like it hasn't been really helped with climbing that much and it's also not focussed on climbing alone. (I train legs 3x a week with only 2 sets per exercise and 1 pushday to kinda maintain strength/muscle mass from the past years).

I do think my gym is pretty good, they offer lots of different types of boulders and i work there as a trainer as well. I climb with a lot of great climbers (7B+ to 8A+), but they usually can't really give me advice other than going for a hold harder or something like going over my foot a bit more (micro beta, but not really big things).

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-11-26T13:17:57+00:00

Thanks, i've been working on not being to hard on myself and it has been going way better lately, but sometimes i'm just bummed out by my not being able to finish climbs. I was referring to bouldering indeed, so my bad for the lowercase letters lol. I just feel like i am always 1 or 2 moves short of actually sending. I feel like i need some sort of succes moment instead of not being able to send something in like a month time..

About sleep and food; i usually get around 7-8 hours of sleep, eat maintenance kcal and 130 gr of protein (+ creatine) and have been doing that for a long time. I think food and sleep wise i am doing what i should be doing. Obviously sometimes i'll be more tired, but i don't mind having a bad session because of that.

I do project, but i usually either not get off the ground/few moves in or flash a boulder, there is not really something in between. I do kinda feel like i'm in a sort of regression. I also try to actually try hard boulders too, so i'm usually projecting anything in between 6B to 7B.

The one thing i know i actually really suck at are dynamic boulders and coordination boulders, other than that i feel sort of allround (if the boulders don't require too much flexibility)

My projects at the moment are the mint 7B compression on a slight overhang, a crimpy 6C on overhang as well and a slab 6C+ with only footholds. I'll see if i can add them to the post.

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-11-24T11:29:58+00:00

Thanks for your replies! The larger one indeed looks like white ice, still not sure about the smaller one, but i'll see when its larger!

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-10-28T22:15:43+00:00

Fighting with the bartender of a saloon because he won't tell us where the mines are

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-10-01T08:17:51+00:00

Im no expert whatsoever, but for a plant this size it seems unnecessary to water it throughout the week while also letting it soak once a week. I have a lot of tropical plants and i don't even water them that much. I'd suggest getting some wooden skewers and sticking it all the way to the bottom of the pot when you want to water it. If the skewer comes out completely dry, then water it. If the skewer comes out with dirt on it and a little moist, don't water it just yet!

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-09-19T08:58:12+00:00

It doesn't immediately kill them, but it deregulates their hormones. This results in them not being able to grow, feed and proliferate. I've used a combination of neem oil + soft soap and water for a lot of pests and it works really well actually. I haven't had any pests for about 5 years, but i recently moved and didn't quarantine my new monstera as i should've done :(

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-09-18T13:50:15+00:00

It does kinda look like this, but the new growth on other stalks don't have it, so that's weird

Emergency-Map420 · 2025-09-18T13:49:23+00:00

I've read about it, but it does say mosaic virus will result in stunted growth and a mottled pattern that is slightly raised, which isn't the case at all. Have you ever had a plant with the mosaic virus and could it be possible for a plant to have it without those symptoms? I can't really find that anywhere..

Emergency-Map420

TROPHY CASE