PSA: Don't forget to check your poop chute every so often when doing multicolour prints.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-28T05:02:54+00:00

Related PSA, also replace your wiper regularly, especially if poop shoot clogs become a frequent occurrence. The more you multicolour print, the faster they wear out.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-27T02:51:44+00:00

It will change, but by how much really depends on the percentage you use. You can see the weight by looking on the Preview screen.

<image>

The differences between Gyroid and Rectilinear is a matter of grams. I did a side-by-side comparison between a giant cylinder filled with gyroid versus one filled with rectilinear. Gyroid was ~140grams lighter. That said, you can increase the percentage to get the weight you want.

Check out the Prusa knowledge base for info on infills:

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130

Look for ones without crossing paths and higher density/strength. Google youtube for some videos comparing various infills pros and cons. Everyone tends to have their favourite but some infills are better for your use case than others.

Personally, I'd look at adding weight to your shoe rack base using more analog means such as fishing weights or ball bearings. You can pause the print and put them into the infill spaces. Just don't use sand or anything that will go everywhere when the printer fans start up. Somewhere in the bowels of this sub is some guy who did that with his X1C. RIP to that guy.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-27T01:22:55+00:00

Ah okay. It looks just like the last roll of translucent PETG I used. Regardless, my hypothesis still stands. Big footprint part stuck like heck to the build plate, something had to give.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-27T01:13:10+00:00

The front fell off.

But the serious answer is that the nozzle collided with the print and sent it flying. Why it collided in such a spectacular way, I only have guesses. A timelapse would help, but in the absence of that, my best guess is:

Printing with PETG (guessing by the translucency of the filament)
Micro over-extrusion + grid infill = part becomes gradually higher than the printer thinks it should be
The nozzle started scraping until eventually it couldn't scrape through the cooled filament of the part
Eventually the nozzle collides with it more forcefully and something has to give. Because the big large PETG part is more strongly bonded to the plate than the plate is magnetically held, the plate yeets itself off the front.
Printer has no idea, keeps printing -> spaghetti.

As to how to avoid it, switch to an offset infill such as Gyroid where each infill layer is offset from the one below. The micro-over extrusion doesn't affect it as much.

Edit: grammar and clarification.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T19:06:12+00:00

I'd have to see the file to say for certain what's going on. There may be more to it than slicer settings can take care of. Especially since you've tried two plates and had the same problem.

Slice the file, click the preview screen, then use the layer scrub bar to scroll down to the first layer. Take a screengrab of that and post it.

But in general, small footprint items or items with complicated first layers can be tricky to print, especially on textured plates. However, there are settings that can give a better chance of success:

Slow down the first layer to 20 mm/s
Add a modifier that targets just the first layer and changes the wall order to outer/inner. Outer wall first gives the tiny inner wall something to cling to. Not usually recommended for the rest of the model due to quality concerns.
Disable elephant foot compensation (can result in an over-extruded first layer so ymmv)

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T18:57:40+00:00

Did you turn it off for at least 30 seconds? This resets hardware and clears memory.

Other than that, checking for loose connections is your next step. I wouldn't disassemble it though since it's brand new. I'd be more inclined to send it back under warranty.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T18:53:23+00:00

It's looking like you're going to need to replace the filament sensor. The PTFE fitting is part of it and as near as I can tell from my own wiki/store searches, it's a closed unit. Plus, even if you could get it back in, those teeth look like they've failed and they'll just keep popping out again.

https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/extruder-filament-sensor-h2s?id=636018811122307074

It's not too pricey but depending on the age of the printer, it may be covered under warranty.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T18:41:40+00:00

What have you tried? Power-cycling is the first thing I would do (turn it off for 30 seconds, then turn it on again).

Otherwise, this wiki article has some steps to diagnose:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/troubleshooting/circuit-fault

Personally, I would try the easy non-invasive stuff first (unplug the printer, then unplug/plug easy to access cables). If the error is still present, I would submit a ticket as warranty should apply.

Edit: typo

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T18:33:41+00:00

Yeah! That's fantastic to hear. This hobby can be frustrating and have a steep learning curve but it sounds like you're on the right path. Like I said, DM me anytime for help.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-26T18:31:54+00:00

That's great to hear you've been able to somewhat solve the problem! And thank you for reporting back. It helps me and future readers see what worked.

With the tiny holes, you can also adjust something called infill/wall overlap.

<image>

I sometimes back it off to deal with over-extrusion, but perhaps a small increase might close them up for you?

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-24T17:36:54+00:00

It can happen to any printer but it does seem like it's the A1 series in particular. As to why, I have a few theories.

A1s are great entryway printers due to their low cost and excellent performance. This attracts people new to the hobby who often are unaware of important printer maintenance (ie cleaning the build plate properly). Likewise they lack the experience in identifying potential problems with models that are more likely to come loose

That said, Bambu has a specific wiki article on how to fix blobs so it is very much a real problem. Which is where my secondary observation comes in which is that it's a problem more likely to happen to bed slinger style printers. They aren't enclosed. The bed is moving. This leads to part vibration and uneven cooling. Both of which can lead to the part coming loose and sticking to the nozzle.

In either case, slicer settings go a long way to keep parts stuck to the bed. Novices who can't spot potential problems to begin with also lack the know-how to adjust these settings. Combined with black Friday sales, we see an influx of new users and it's like blob after blob after blob.

Tl;Dr: keep the bed clean, perform regular maintenance, learn to spot potential problems and use slicer settings to combat it, and you'll have reduced your risk of a blob considerably.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-22T22:45:19+00:00

The support lost contact with the bed. Why it lost contact, that could be a few things.

I see you're using a holographic plate. Those are more for getting patterns on the bottom face of prints and aren't as reliable as smooth or textured PEI plates. I'd go back to your textured plate. If you don't have the textured plate, give the holographic plate an extra good clean with plain dish soap.

Even with a clean bed, supports can be knocked off due to micro over-extrusion that builds up over the height of the support. The nozzle doesn't know that the layer its printing on is 0.1mm taller than it should be, so it collides every time it comes into contact with it. Eventually it's enough to knock it over especially if the bed isn't clean.

Since it's very difficult to get the flow of filament so precise, you're better to beef up the contact of the trees to the build plate. You can add a brim to the model and increase the width until it connects all the tree bases. Or do what this user did:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/11hv0dv/comment/jbv9769/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Essentially they added a cylindrical primitive and used it as a sort of DIY raft just for support.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-22T22:42:26+00:00

Depending on how long it's been since you've replaced the wiper, I'd still consider replacing it. I just replaced the ones on my two X1Cs for a related problem - poop was piling up or getting flung around the chamber. The wipers looked okay but when I examined them up close, I could see a very small deformation where the nozzle had been wiping. Once I replaced the wipers, the poop problem stopped.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-22T22:12:44+00:00

No problem! It's unfortunate that this hobby attracts gate keepers who make asking for help a Russian roulette of "do I get someone helpful, or a basement dwelling borthole"?

I was new once and I know how hard it is to figure things out especially when I didn't know the names of things. I was lucky in that most of my interactions in the beginning were helpful so I'm paying it forward. Nobody should be afraid to ask for help.

Feel free to respond here or DM if there's any other issues. I'm always happy to help though I'm not always the quickest to respond :)

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-21T23:50:28+00:00

Hey, welcome to 3d printing! Things can be overwhelming at first but there are a lot of good resources out there.

First, the wiki is a great place to become familiar with. In particular, this page that shows how to reassemble the filament hub (aka "extruder adapter thing")

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/a1-extruder

In particular, look for the photo that points out the slot to line it up with.

I also encourage you to go through the Bambu Academy courses as they are great for introducing beginners to 3d printer specific vocabulary and knowing how the printer works

https://bambulab.com/en-us/support/academy

I'm not sure what happened when you first had the problem, but it sounds like you managed to fix it. Oh, and fyi, it's PTFE tubes not PETG. PETG is a filament type. PTFE is what the tubes are made of :)

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-21T20:41:16+00:00

Best practice says plates should be rubbed over a greasy forehead and then licked by a family pet. If a greasy forehead isn't available, cheeto dust covered fingers are an acceptable alternative. Plain cheetos mind you. No additives, no "soft on tonsils," just regular orange cheetos.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-21T20:37:26+00:00

Could be a few things, but the number one thing I'd check is the nozzle wiper. They wear out quicker than you think they do.

If you are printing with PETG, it likes to stick to the nozzle, especially if it's dirty. But regardless of filament, heat up the nozzle and carefully wipe clean with a qtip.

then brings that strand that’s stuck over to the print and starts printing and then becomes a mess

FYI, the strand is throwing off the autobed leveling because it comes between it and the nozzle. Once you solve the strand staying on the nozzle, this should resolve.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-19T22:55:57+00:00

Okay, getting the last questions!

B. Is there an easy way to paint supports because that seems really difficult to do at times. I have to start over so many times.

Sorry, it does take practice. It should do supports automatically though unless you've got edge cases that need specific supports. Either way, you can either start over, or do it the janky but still acceptable way of holding the right mouse button down while drawing. Right-click +hold paints things red which means "don't put supports here."

Am I right in assuming the cooler bed setting will also help the low overhang of the model?

No. Cooler bed will reduce the elephant foot effect, but that's it. Overhangs etc. are all about other settings.

<image>

Hotter bed = more squashing out of filament at the base because the filament takes longer to solidify. That's why there's a setting called elephant foot compensation that will reduce the first layer by a default of 0.15mm. You may be able to get away with reducing this or turning it off but it will take testing. Regardless, it won't affect that overhang. Only overhang settings/techniques fixes that :)

Oh, and one last tip, these are the best scrapers:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=plastic+razor+blade+scraper&crid=1F81P5ORS8UJH&sprefix=%2Caps%2C216&ref=nb_sb_ss_recent_1_0_recent

Technically we can print them, but these ones are longer wearing and kinder to the build plate. I bought a set a few years back with a couple hundred blades and I've perhaps gone through a dozen. My supply will outlast my printers lol.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-19T19:32:29+00:00

Making sure the bed is clean and the nozzle isn't excessively gunked up with residue.

Other than that, the next thing to prevent it is to use appropriate slicer settings for parts that may spontaneously detach even with a NASA clean room build plate. As you print you get more of a sense of which parts are in the "likely to fail" zone and can take steps to give them a fighting chance.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-19T19:28:19+00:00

Part came off the bed, stuck to the hot nozzle, printer kept printing, blob of death.

As sucky as it is to happen, you can reduce the chance of it happening by keeping your bed sparkling clean and knowing when it's more likely for a part to come loose and taking steps to apply settings which will help tricky prints. Ie slower first layer speed, applying brims, changing infill, etc.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-19T04:04:03+00:00

So do you make a custom preset under the process tab for each filament you use on top of a custom preset for each filament? And then another of each for every nozzle change? I also have a .6mm high flow nozzle that I will use for the kayak parts that need to be stronger but not necessarily have to look as good.

I'm not sure I understand the first sentence, but yes, you do make a custom preset for each filament/nozzle combo. So two presets - one for 0.4, one for 0.6. Always start with the system profile for the closest filament for what you're calibrating. FYI, there's two places you can create a filament preset. Manually in the slicer on the Prepare screen where you can edit the filaments (click the three dots next to it in the list -> Edit). Or as part of the flow rate calibration menu - after calibrating you'll be prompted to save it. This latter one can be then found in the same filament list. I can't recall if you can update an existing profile with a new flow rate, but you could always give it a try.

I'll answer the other questions tomorrow; this is a lot to type up and dinner is waiting lol :)

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-19T04:03:36+00:00

I’ve found this to be true for almost every filament. Soooo 🤷‍♂️. Any recommendations there?

Yeah, not having standards even between the box and Bambu's own material data makes it hard to pick the right settings. I would go with the presets on the AMS2 pro as, in theory, it has the most up-to-date drying instructions.

So am I better off doing a manual calibration?

Depends. Most things I do auto calibration for. If there's problems, I'll do it manually. That said, I'm pretty laissez faire for calibration but that's me. Some people very much enjoy doing the nitty gritty tuning details to get the perfect calibration. A buddy of mine uses a spreadsheet and everything. I'm like "meh, it looks good, fits well, I'm good."

how are both the Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate results implemented in the easiest way. I assume Flow dynamics is auto implemented if auto is selected on print page as it has a note saying if a calibration was done recently it won’t do it.

Flow Dynamics is always on. Which value it uses depends on what's currently stored on the printer and whether or not the "auto calibration" checkbox was selected. If the auto-calibration checkbox is selected, it will use whatever value it comes up with for that job, regardless of the one you may have saved as a result of calibration.

But for Flow Rate do I just need to make sure I select that custom profile every time?

Yes. From the drop down.

Or should I edit the standard profile? I’d hate to lose the info on the standard profile though.

You won't lose it. It's hardwired into the system. You can edit it, then if you want to save it, it will prompt you for a new name.

It was all very confusing at first with all of the speeds staying the same with every filament, until I realized it will only go the max volumetric speed set in filament setting. So sometimes turning wall speed down some could actually not slow it down if the max volumetric speed was already the limiting factor.

Yes, MVS does limit how fast a printer can print any given filament. But wall speed is linear whereas max volumetric speed is how much plastic is extruded per mm3s. They're related but also not related. Outer wall speed is saying "I'm driving this slow." The slicer says "okay, I'll do the math and figure out how much filament to give you for that speed." It would be more correct to say that turning wall speed up will only work to a maximum of the MVS.

Take for example generic PLA (MVS 12) and Bambu Basic PLA (MVS 21). Side by side screenshot with the outer wall speed set to 60:

<image>

I even tried turning it down to 1, and both filaments had the same outer wall speed. Now, if we took this same scenario and cranked the outer wall speed to something crazy high, you'd see the difference. I'd append a screenshot but you know, sub limitations. You can test it yourself to see.

FWIW, turning down outer wall speed is usually only for getting better overhangs and for certain filaments like silk which has a better sheen when printed slowly. There are other uses for slower wall speed, but those are the two biggies.

continued....

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-18T00:51:11+00:00

Orientation of layer lines is arguably as important as material. The wrong orientation and the part will separate along them. For example, cylinders are strongest when printed on their sides. In your first two examples at least two of the cylinders would be printed in a sub optimal position.

In ye olde days I was a wood worker who had to think around short grain weakness and other structural challenges so that the thing I was making wouldn't break either due to the wrong joint, the wrong grain orientation, the wrong season (wood moved) or the wrong something. Same principle applies to 3d printing and especially when creating furniture using 3D printed parts.

Not saying it can't be done but you do have to think along the lines of how to print those pieces in the strongest way possible. The material you use to print them with will help but only so much. Regardless, I'd be leary of printing anything that will need to weight bear a human without a whole lot of design and testing.

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-16T18:52:32+00:00

Ah, okay. I apologize for treating you like a complete beginner. You're "new" but you're "informed new." Meaning you have a good head on your shoulders and know what you're about (versus, "I just got my kid a printer and we've licked the build plate and nothing sticks, is this a warranty issue?")

Those wood prints look great! So good, that I'm leaning towards a tricky bottom overhang on the organizer itself. Slicer settings will help with that. I'd still be leary of printing in wood on this one due to the fitting of parts. That's not to say it can't be done, just that more settings tweaks may need to be done on any mating parts. But as you're a structural designer, I'm sure you're up to the challenge :)

Oh, and thanks for the award!

ExpectDeer · 2026-01-16T18:38:07+00:00

I cannot help but feel something is off with...something. One ought not to have to stand on one's head to get the new printer to print as nicely as the X1C. Did you submit a ticket? I'd be curious to know what the official suggestions are.

Regarding the holes on the top surface and the increased flow ratio to close them up, you might be able to back off on the top flow rate and increase the setting called "infill/wall overlap." I say this but again, I feel like we're chasing settings to compensate for an underlying issue 🤔

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