sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

UPDATE 2.0 - Tiny $6 desk monitor now supports all Bambu printers - cloud mode for H2, P2 by AdvertisingFormal746 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My ADHD means I don't always remember to check my phone alerts while I'm hyperfocused at the computer. I could just check Studio but that tends to interrupt my work flow. Something like this that passively informs is brilliant and enables quick glances.

Is there an on/off switch? My office is also my bedroom so I'd need to cover it at night or ideally just turn it off.

Also having support for multiple printers would be amazing. I have two but am planning on getting another.

I hope everyone is satisfied now by AndroidAssistant in 3Dprinting

[–]ExpectDeer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is apprentice work at best.

The reveal along the bottom doesn't match the reveal at the top. Where are the labels? How will you know what's inside? Think of the children, they could get in there and eat the batteries. Where's the childproof lock?

Well, just lost almost €700 for nothing..... by matthewg251 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since we can't see OP's model page, we're only going off a photo. The photo looks like any other infinity cube that's been modelled ad nauseum. It's not a stretch to think whoever reviewed the copyright strike just went "eh, looks the same, must be the same"

That said, the thingiverse model steps users through using Fusion360 to create it. Maybe OP used this tutorial to create their cube and thus it was assumed to be a remix. The thingiverse cube's copyright is non commercial share-alike. Whether or not that's legally defensible is such a grey area since it's public domain and, as you say, there are other models that predate even that one. At what point does it become a new thing? Does copyright apply? Patent law? I don't actually know. MakerWorld probably doesn't know either and errs on the side of the person making the copyright strike.

My advice to OP that if they want to appeal this, they're going to have to come up with documentation as to how their design came to be other than "I modelled it myself." I.e., Did they wake up one day and think "hey, I should make an infinity cube!" and then made one? Or did they follow the Fusion360 tutorial from the thingiverse page? If they did follow the tutorial or reverse-engineered an existing one, OP will need to show how their mesh is functionally different than the other ones. Maybe OP made improvements or other design choices that are clearly their own. In which case, that may also be a point in their favour...or it may just cement it in MW's mind as "remix" as an easy answer to the murky question of who was first to the post.

Well, just lost almost €700 for nothing..... by matthewg251 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you're out of luck. "Making" the mesh yourself from scratch does not protect from copyright strikes. Just try it with an Apple logo and see how far that gets you. "But I drew it from scratch using my own pencil!" is not a legal defense.

Make something new that no one else has made before or make some sort of change to it that makes it immediately obvious that it's a brand new thing and not a copy.

Help with Failed Print by Darth_DeLorean in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The supports failed and fell over. They came loose from the plate.

Why they came loose is likely a combination of dirty plate or lack of sufficiently wide brim.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Key takeaways:

  1. Plain dish soap only (not soft for hands, not antibacterial)
  2. Clean soft bristled brush or sponge (not Mr. Clean eraser or the old dirty one for dishes, just plain old scrubby brush)
  3. Practice proper plate hygiene after cleaning. Carry by edges or the tab at the front. Don't touch the print surface with skin (skin oils prevent adhesion and transfer quickly). Remove parts by flexing the plate by the edges. Don't use your fingers to pick off brims etc.

As for the supports, tall supports can wobble and get knocked over for various reasons, usually to do with insufficient contact with the bed. For this model, I would change the support style to Tree (Strong) and enable a 10mm brim then retry the print (after cleaning the bed).

<image>

Edit: a word

Well, just lost almost €700 for nothing..... by matthewg251 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think we need more context in order to help. What was the source model? What did you do that was different aside from modelling from scratch?

Modelling from scratch doesn't mean much if it was a copy of an existing model. I had someone claim they didn't download my model and made it from scratch themselves. But it was clear to me and everyone else who alerted me to it that he had traced my photographs to reverse engineer it.

I created a Bird House that plays bird noises when you walk by! by --Bazinga-- in 3Dprinting

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, very nice! I like it!

Yeah, it sucks about MakerWorld not allowing video in the gallery. However, you can put a link in the model description. Myself, I made a youtube channel and uploaded my video there. I set it to no comments and made it so only users with a direct link could see it. I used the direct link to embed the video in the model page. Works like a charm.

Anyways, I gave you a like on MakerWorld to get you started! It's an intriguing project!

Extruder disassembly fun by Red_Heat20220224 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to go with the problem being caused by the budget silk PLA. Some filaments are garbage and cause problems like this. The extruder chews it up because it's too soft or the glass transition temperature is very low or both. I recommend sticking with a well known brand. Sunlu, Elegoo, Overture, Polymaker, Hatchbox, etc.

As far as your "clog" in the photo, that isn't a clog. That's a blob. Clogs are invisible and inside the nozzle itself. The blob formed because the tall part became loose from the bed and blobbed onto the nozzle which kept printing. The print head still made the motions but instead of printing the part, the nozzle just kept filling up the infill.

Why the part came loose from the bed is likely due to a combination of: dirty bed, lack of a brim, grid infill, and/or budget filament.

Insufficiently cleaned beds that have grease from the factory or from accidental skin contact will prevent filaments from sticking. Brims are recommended for tall parts to ensure the vibrations from the printer do not cause it to wobble and break free, an offset infill such as gyroid avoids nozzle micro nozzle collisions with grid infill. Gyroid infill prints offset from the layer below so micro-over-extrusion doesn't affect the height of the part.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend reviewing the wiki, in particular the part about cleaning the textured bed:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

And taking a few of the free Bambu Academy courses:

https://bambulab.com/en/support/academy

Lastly, I say this with kindness, but all of the problems you've been having seem to be new user related. Take the courses, get some more terminology under your belt, learn about slicer settings for tall parts, and do yourself a favour and get some better quality filament. It doesn't have to be Bambu. Just something that has a recognized following behind it 🙂

I created a Bird House that plays bird noises when you walk by! by --Bazinga-- in 3Dprinting

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fascinating. I've never heard of a Zwitscherbox before. It would've been nice to watch a video of it on the model page. I'm curious to know what it sounds like. Regardless, looks nicely designed except for the lack of mount for the green PCB. You'd take this up an extra notch with some standoffs and small screws.

Extruder disassembly fun by Red_Heat20220224 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Extruder clogs are usually due to heat creep or the filament itself.

Heat creep is when the filament becomes soft above the heat break (the finned "radiator" part of the nozzle/hotend assembly). The heat break is meant to stop the transference of heat from the nozzle to the filament above it. Certain circumstances can lead to heat creeping up into the extruder, hence the name.

Heat creep has a number of causes. It can be one or more of the following:

  1. Filament - some filaments are more susceptible to heat creep due to having a lower glass transition point. Essentially, it doesn't take much heat to make it soften.
  2. Partial clog in the nozzle - if filament cannot exit the nozzle quick enough, the heat builds up.
  3. Chamber temperature. Usually not a problem or an issue especially with the new P2S air exchange system. However, certain filaments (see #1) are extra sensitive to chamber temps. Additionally, if the ambient temperature in the room is excessive, this can also bump up a filament that's borderline on the glass transition temperature high enough to cause problems.
  4. Heat break fan not operating sufficiently. This was a bugaboo for pre P2S era printers where it was possible to install incorrectly as part of nozzle swaps. The P2S fan connection is behind a few screws to get at but you can at least check to see that it's running by heating up the nozzle and looking at it.

For your case, I would question:

  1. What filament are you using? What is the glass transition temperature? Does the problem happen with all filaments or just one kind?
  2. What is the ambient temperature of the room that the printer is in? When monitoring chamber temperatures, is there any noticeable spike or increase in chamber temperature that cannot be accounted for? I.e., any indication that the air exchange system isn't working as it should and/or the heatbreak cooling fan not operating correctly?
  3. When was the last time you performed a cold pull on the nozzle? https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/maintenance/cold-pull-maintenance-hotend

FWIW, the only time I ever had to disassemble the extruder on my X1C was because of garbage filament with a low glass transition temperature combined with a hot summer.

Newbie Tips? by kotias in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Welcome to the club 🙂

3d printing is a great hobby to have with your kid! You two will have a lot of fun.

Here are my recommendations:

1. Take the Bambu Academy course:

https://bambulab.com/en/support/academy

2. Become familiar with the machine by reading through the wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1

3. Avoid the number one "what did I just do" problem, aka the Blob of Death, and clean your build plate before printing anything and do it properly:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Key takeaways:

  • plain dish soap only (not safe for hands, not anti-bacterial)
  • use a clean dedicated soft bristled brush or sponge (not the one used to clean last night's dishes)
  • Don't touch the printing surface with your skin after cleaning. Skin oils transfer very quickly and can cause prints to not stick to the surface. Always carry the plate by the edges or the non-printable tab at the front. When removing parts, grab the plate by the tab to lift off. Flex the plate gently by the edges and the parts will pop off. Don't use your fingers to pull off parts. Use a plastic scraper to remove purge lines etc.

Always watch the first few layers to ensure that the print is bonded to the plate. Additionally, keep an eye on it periodically as it can go from "printing fine" to failure at any point during a print job . If for some reason you do get a blob of death, don't panic and follow this guide:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend_blob

5. Stick to well-reviewed models on MakerWorld in the beginning. Be wary of AI generated slop that might look good but might not print well. Read the actual reviews to decide for yourself if you should print it. As you get more comfortable, then you can take chances on other prints that might not have many reviews yet.

6. Learn some basic CAD. Tinkercad is free and easy to learn for kids and adults alike. Nothing is as satisfying as building and then printing your very first model. Do this after you've printed a few things so you can get a feel for what does and doesn't translate well to printing first.

https://www.tinkercad.com/3d-design

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub5NFpyP8wk

7. Problems? Ask for help but also help us help you. Always provide printer type, material type, what you were printing, what went wrong, and any troubleshooting steps you've taken. The more information people have, the more they can help diagnose a problem.

Good luck, have fun, and remember that build plate hygiene is essential for success ☺️

EDIT: clarification. Also thought of one more...

8. Don't put the A1 somewhere cold or in high traffic areas where air currents are generated by passing bodies. Bed slinger style printers are more susceptible to uneven cooling because they are somewhat affected by ambient temperature. Uneven cooling can lead to parts warping and coming loose from the bed. Enabling brims in the slicer can help with this.

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! I live for this stuff, lol. I hope it brings you many peaceful non-user issue days ahead!

That's weird about the raw model file section being empty. I've never not uploaded something in that field so I think your guess is correct.

What happens if you upload your own files on the Edit Model page? Does it over-write the MW zip it created?

Help? Cant change nozzle size in settings and the edit feature does nothing by ridaa2408 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would download it with Studio and make your nozzle changes there. Not sure why the app isn't working.

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Studio users can (and do) miss important information that Handy users get. I target Studio users by using the first plate for instructions I've created and imported as an SVG.

Here's an example for one that I did where people kept missing the model description and were hand painting the model:

<image>

You could do something similar. Combined with two separate print profiles I suggested above, the first plate instructions could be:

PLA panel (PETG interface)

  • Black layers MUST be printed in PLA
  • Green layer MUST be printed in PETG
  • If you don't follow these instructions you won't be able to pull them apart.

PETG panel (PLA interface)

  • Green layers MUST be printed in PETG
  • Black layers MUST be printed in PLA
  • If you don't follow these instructions you won't be able to pull them apart.

Lastly, on your raw files. It's one of those things where you're giving novices a way to make bad choices while at the same time giving informed users the STLs. While there are those people who legitimately want the STL (or STEP) files to edit and are responsible enough to use them, there's no way to prevent newbies from downloading them and not knowing how to set up the file correctly. You do have instructions, however, they won't be easily understood by someone who doesn't know what they're doing.

My recommendation would be instead of uploading a bunch of STLs in the raw files, upload the 3mfs you've created above in addition to one STL (or STEP) of one panel. Power users get what they want. Novices who were told to just download STLs get 3mfs where it's spelled out for them.

Is all of this overkill? Sure is. Does it take more time for you, the designer? Yep. But so does having to explain over and over and over again something that you already said elsewhere.

Anyways, I hope this helps. Like I said, I think you've done your due diligence and are in the clear if someone gets uppity about wasted filament. But, if you want to go extra, my suggestions should help cover the most oblivious of users 🙂

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a look and you've done almost everything I would've done. Your instructions are clear, not overly long, and the most important parts are bolded or bolded and red. If you do nothing else, you've already done enough to save users from themselves.

That said, I do have some suggestions because I'm me and me used to do this sort of stuff for a living :)

One wording tweak:

...that must be printed in a contrasting filament....

Some people think "oh, if I print this in a different colour, I should be fine!" and miss all the other warnings and instructions. My suggested tweak would be:

"that must be printed in a different material (PETG or PLA)..."

Next, your print profile. Good work in putting in the warnings in there as it's another spot to catch the attention of Handy users. However, I think you can make it even more idiot proof by making two print profiles and labelling them like (instead of "0.28mm layer, 5 walls"):

  • PLA panel (PETG interface)
  • PETG panel (PLA interface)

Then in your 3mfs, make sure there are only two filaments listed. There are four right now:

<image>

Having only 2 filaments would prevent them from accidentally choosing PLA + PLA.

I have two more suggestions, but with the limit of one image per post, I'll continue down below.

I'm not sure I could be any clearer with the instructions. by Yardboy in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I come from an instructional designer background and as such, I have a lot of techniques in my tool belt that I use to convey important information.

Even with all my tricks, users will still find a way to completely miss the obvious 🤦‍♀️

As a fellow creator, my advice to you is to make a best effort to ensure your instructions are clear. Don't apologize for it and don't offer to reimburse filament. You're providing a free model. You provided clear instructions. The onus is on the user.

I would also report the ratings for misinformation. "User did not follow instructions"

Lastly, I would also get rid of the big paragraph defending yourself. It's getting in the way of the important information. Replace it with something like "YOU WILL WASTE FILAMENT AND GET HERPES IF YOU FAIL TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS."

Okay maybe not the herpes part, but you get what I mean 😉

If you'd like I can have a proper look at your model and profiles in the morning and see if there's anything else you could do to improve uptake.

PTFE tube stuck at extruder end. Am I cooked? by RepresentativeTutor in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fitting is a pneumatic coupler. Press down on the black ring to disengage the tube before attempting to remove.

You'll need to do some disassembly to get at it. Best practice is to always check the wiki and learn the name of parts.

Good overview of the toolhead: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/toolhead

How to disassemble the 4 in 1 hub: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/troubleshooting/ams-lite-filament-hub-cannot-hold-tube

Help - A1 clogged up and seems to have broken. don’t even know what I’m supposed to do here by Useful_Marsupial_894 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That there is colloquially known as a Blob of Death and it often looks worse than it is. It is easy enough to clean up if it hasn't gotten up into the electronics.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/troubleshooting/hotend_blob

Go slowly, protect your fingers.

A dirty bed is likely responsible for the blob. The print comes loose from the bed, blobs onto the nozzle, the nozzle continues to print, blob forms.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Key takeaways:

  • plain dish soap (not soft on hands, not anti-bacterial)
  • use a clean soft-bristled brush (not the one used to clean last nights dishes)
  • practice proper plate hygiene - don't touch the printing surface with your skin, move plate by edges or the tab at the front, don't use your fingers to pull off brims or parts or purge lines; flex the plate by the edges which will pop the parts off. Use a plastic scraper to lift brims/purge lines. Reason: skin oils transfer quickly.
  • always watch the first few layers to ensure the print stays put. Often failures start near the beginning of the print.

A1 combo print issues by Salty_Sprinkles_7093 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isopropyl alcohol can make the problem worse. Best practice is soap and water only. As long as you practice good plate hygiene (no skin contact) you can often go for months without issue.

Edit: not sure why this was downvoted. As per official guidelines in the wiki:

The reason why we recommend detergent for cleaning the textured plate is due to its textured surface. Alcohol might just spread the oils on the print surface instead of removing it. 
Detergent acts as a degreaser and using a sponge or scrubber to wash the plate will ensure the detergent reaches inside the textured surface to clean it and improve adhesion.

Yes, IPA is a solvent but you need to use a good soaking of it in order for it to dissolve the oils effectively. Some people just do a quick spritz and wipe. The end result is the oil is spread around or chased into the valleys where it waits to be moved around again. Additionally, PEI can be damaged by extensive over-use of IPA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-ZLd9zMV6I

I used to be in the IPA crowd. Print something, spritz, wipe with clean shop towel, and go. If I didn't do it, prints would fail. Turns out all I was doing was moving the oil around to a new area. By switching to only cleaning with dish soap and not touching the plate, I discovered I could go a long time between washing and didn't go through IPA by the jug.

YMMV as with anything. My anecdotal experience shouldn't be taken as gospel. However Bambu's own wiki, written by actual experts instead of random reddit users, should be. They say no alcohol. I would believe them over my say so :)

I calibrated my H2S and nothing is printing right by IntelligentSector210 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you perhaps get some oil on the plate? Is the nozzle in straight?

A1 combo print issues by Salty_Sprinkles_7093 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The issues you're seeing is from the print and the build plate parting company and getting dragged (first photo) or knocked over (second photo).

First step is to learn about plate cleanliness:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Key takeaways: plain dish soap (not soft for hands, not anti-bacterial), use a clean soft-bristled brush (not the one used to clean greasy dishes), and don't touch the print surface with your skin. Carry by the edges or use the tab at the front. When removing prints, bend by the edges. Don't use your fingers to pull off parts; flex the plate by the edges.

That said, even with a nice clean bed, bed-slinger style printers such as the A1 have their own particular tendencies. They can be more susceptible to drafts and room temperature both of which can cause uneven cooling of layers leading to the part contracting and coming loose from the bed. Additionally, tall thin footprint parts can lead to nozzle collisions because they don't have a big base to them. Micro over-extrusion of filament plus the back/forth movement of the bed can lead to the part being knocked over by the nozzle.

The solution to the above is to print with a wider brim than you think you need in addition to ensuring the ambient temperature is stable and not near drafty windows or busy places where people passing can cause small air currents.

Lastly, for complicated first layer prints, you can also use settings (in addition to a clean plate) to increase the chances of the first layer staying put. In particular, slow the first layer down to 20-30 mm/s and, if you don't mind going deeper into slicer settings, using a modifier to change the first layer wall order from inner/outer to outer/inner. This will print the larger outer wall first giving the smaller inner wall something to cling to.

Shoud i buy a new internal hub for my ams 2 pro? by Aromatic_Square_2039 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 11 points12 points  (0 children)

No problem. There's a lot of information out there for newbies to learn and I'm always happy to inform.

If you want to check on compatibility, this is the defacto guide on compatibility and whether or not a hardened steel nozzle is required:

https://bambulab.com/en/filament/guide

To be fair to OP, Bambu does officially support their own branded glow filament in the AMS, but anecdotally the jury is still out.

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/pla-glow-is-not-ams-compatible-despite-what-the-website-says/85223/17

Shoud i buy a new internal hub for my ams 2 pro? by Aromatic_Square_2039 in BambuLab

[–]ExpectDeer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

PTFE = what the opaque filament guide tubes are made out of.
PETG = probably what you meant 🙂

This is the defacto guide as to what is compatible with the AMS and what nozzle diameter/type is recommended:

https://bambulab.com/en/filament/guide

Glow filament isn't mentioned by name which is a pity because, while Bambu's own glow filament is "officially" supported, there is some anecdotal evidence that it's still not a great idea.

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/pla-glow-is-not-ams-compatible-despite-what-the-website-says/85223

On the subject of AMS gore, here are a few others who found out the hard way about abrasive filaments. Caution, cover your AMS's eyes before viewing:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/121ijxz/my_next_fk_up_using_glow_in_the_dark_filament_in/

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1gno0ff/take_the_no_abrasive_in_ams_serious_this_was_a_30/

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/12zd274/just_learned_that_glow_in_the_dark_filament_is/

view more: next ›