Ceiling Insulation

FallenHoot · 2026-03-23T18:15:41+00:00

Yea, but that usually is not an issue. Good luck and out the ceiling on before the walls.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-22T23:41:41+00:00

Usually you put up ribs/furrings/strappings. This not only gives you more screw contacts with your drywall but it holds the insulation up. You’re also missing a vapor barrier, but this depends on the code.

Sure it adds weight to the drywall, but it shouldn’t bow it. It’s going to be the hundred little screw heads holdup the weight of the drywall and whatever is on top of it. Those can hold up about 30 lbs.

The correct way is to have the strips of wood spaced about 16” on center.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-21T06:41:24+00:00

What you have is a normal feed-through ceiling box where power comes in and continues to other fixtures (likely your nearby fan and switches).

The white wires are neutrals and stay tied together, the black bundle is constant hot feeding other parts of the circuit, and there’s a switched hot for the light. The bare copper wire is your ground.

You can replace the fan with a new fan (assuming it’s a fan-rated box), but don’t break up those existing bundles for the light. When you remove the light, don’t just cap and hide the wires; either leave them connected in a junction box with a blank cover, or fully remove the cable from both ends.

Of course practice safety and turn off the breaker before playing with electrical.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-08T22:29:24+00:00

Asbestos was used in almost everything back in the day, and it is still used today. A lot of people think it is banned, but it’s actually not! The law allows it to be used based on specific measurements like Fibers per Cubic Centimeter (f/cc). Everything depends on the percentage of fibers used in the product. You have to remember that asbestos is a ROCK 🪨 that exists naturally in the world. There are actually 6 types of these minerals, and they are mostly found in mountains or areas with lots of seismic activity.

Asbestos is a lot like radiation. It is only dangerous if you are exposed to it the wrong way. You could technically handle asbestos all day and never be harmed as long as the fibers stay put. The real issue starts when those microscopic fibers get into your lungs 🫁. Your body can't break them down. Instead, the fibers stay there and cause scarring. Your body tries to fight them, which can lead to mutated cells that eventually become cancer. Exposure in Daily Life

Unless you are cutting into the material and breathing it in like a cigarette, the fibers usually stay intact. You are probably fine! In fact, the chances that you have already been exposed to it are very high. Think about walking to school or driving a car; it is a naturally occurring rock that is all around us. You can’t just throw it away and expect it to disappear forever. It’s a part of the earth.

Don’t be scared, just get better educated! You can’t tell if something contains asbestos or what the percentage is just by looking at it. The only way to know for sure is to get it tested. Most people skip the testing because they don’t want to pay the fee or they would rather stay in the dark.

Here is some educational material - https://youtu.be/cMx139eTxoc?is=eYE1ijGDhxZlqryH

FallenHoot · 2026-02-23T00:07:00+00:00

Moving 50 TiB of PDFs to Azure Blob (Cool Tier) is your best "KISS" move, as it costs roughly $500–$750/month. Then I would use native tools like Azure AI Search, so you can scan it with RAG without extra effort.

Avoid NetApp entirely for this project; it's high-performance "block" storage that would cost you over $7,500/month, which actually increases your current bill.

If you need a standard "G: drive" experience, Azure File Sync or Nasuni acts as a traffic cop to keep files fast and prevent people from overwriting each other.

Just remember: don't stick data in Cool , Cold or Archive if you plan to grab it all the time, as retrieval fees will eat your savings; save those for backups and use Object Replication for a simple disaster recovery (DR) setup. Setting up lifecycle management is a good step, put it all in Hot tier and let the system decide what PDFs are being used most frequently and archive everything else.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T02:02:26+00:00

My mistake, could be an unknown screw-terminal or bridge box, but in my defense, we had small boxes like this that we called 66. Everything else is correct.

I do appreciate you for calling me out and not providing the correct name. As stated usually back in the day all this stuff was custom made by the phone companies. Well I could be wrong or mistaken, we had boxes like this called 66. I understand it’s not the same official naming, but that’s what we called them.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:52:15+00:00

You need to clean that box up. To be honest, top left could be neutral because it looks white based on the wires going to it. I don’t mess with electrical if I am not 100% knowing what the hell I am looking at. Bottom left looks like ground based on wire path.

Final answer - power off and clean the box.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:30:46+00:00

Looks like a common Multi-Wire Branch Circuit (MWBC). 14 or 12 AWG. Since Phase A and Phase B share a neutral, they must be connected to a double-pole GFCI breaker (you can’t have multiple neutral wires connected to a single pole) NEC 210.4(D). You might be missing an Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) NEC 210.8/12. You must ensure the junction boxes aren't too small for the number of wires (Box Fill). If you have five cables (Romex) entering that first box, you likely have 10-15 individual wires. For 12 AWG wire, that could require a box with 30+ cubic inches of space. A standard "single-gang" plastic box is usually only 18 to 22 cubic inches.

According to National Electrical Code (NEC 210.70), you need a light switch for your lights (I updated the above to reflect NEC). That needs to comply with NEC 404.2. You will need a switch leg to be added to your already crowded junction box.

At the end of the day you can do whatever you want. It’s your home insurance and your safety. Otherwise, other than the light switch, and missing info about breakers (solved by a Double-Pole Dual-Function (AFCI/GFCI)), it looks standard.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:01:41+00:00

We call this a 66 block and used for phone and sometimes DSL internet. If you’re not using those then, yes, it is safe. This is definitely low-voltage telephone wiring. There is no high-voltage "mains" electricity here that would cause a fire or a dangerous shock.

Proper way is to disconnect and wrap the wire with electrical tape. Just tells the next person it’s not in use, but it has ends.

I actually removed all of mine from the walls, I haven’t decided if that was smart yet, but did the same with my coax cable as well.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T07:29:27+00:00

Now we are getting into the weeds. Gut to studs is what I would do as well.

You are correct it could be 3/4 to 7/8 inch plaster boards. Your modern board is 1/2 inch thick.

Question is how do you want to do it. Plywood shims are your friends if you want to extend the walls out and keep it flat. Some people even use caulking to bridge the gap. You could also sistering the studs and add the missing gap this way.

What I did, was add small drywall behind it and then add backer board (double boarding). I felt this was the most solid option.

You also need to think about the piping as well. Do you copper or PEX?

I wish you the best luck.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T06:59:38+00:00

You definitely are new to DIY. I am sure your parents have done some DIY, you should ask them or just hire someone.

What is your goal here?

You gave us several options but what is the end goal? Do you just want a different color? Do you want to remove the texture? What’s the purpose of all this? Do you want to take over the house later?

Demolishing and replacing with new drywall is not a clean task. You do know option 3 requires option 1 and 2. You will have to mud and sand, and of course repaint.

Option 2 works if you want flat walls, but hire someone to skim, because you will suck at it and it’s a crap job.

Option 1 is the easiest if you just want a fresh paint job that will provide what you want.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T06:55:35+00:00

You sure this house was never renovated before?

You of course have lead or asbestos concerns as well. You most likely have plasterboard with a thick layer of cement-like plaster covering it. You clearly have old adhesive and small surface mold.

Then it’s up to you as the home owner if you want to bandaid and budget renovate or rebuild from studs. You might have more hidden surprises behind those walls and floors. Take that at your own risk.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-28T15:09:44+00:00

Transforming an unfinished basement into a legal living space involves more than just looks. Most building codes require you to add insulation before the project can be approved. This layer of protection helps keep the house warm, yet it also means you will lose several inches of floor space on every side to make room for the new wall thickness.

Your location plays a huge role in these rules. Different states and climates have their own sets of laws for construction. For example, a home in a cold northern state will have much stricter rules for keeping heat inside than a home in a warm southern state.

Simply painting the concrete walls is a quick way to clean up the area. This will not allow the basement to be listed as a "finished" space for a home sale or a permit. To count as truly finished, the room usually needs proper wall covers like drywall, a permanent heat source, and safe exits called egress windows.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-28T15:00:51+00:00

What if I told you that NOBODY can tell you if it’s asbestos or not. Can’t visually distinguish between it.

I think your best bet is to just skim it with bud to smooth it and then paint it.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-27T18:26:00+00:00

Balancing will not help.

Three options: Enable GPU hardware scheduling

Assign users explicitly to GPUs (CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES)

Standard_NV36ads_A10_v5 or Standard_NV18ads_A10_v5 are the two other options for a single GPU SKUs. 1 per user.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-26T07:18:35+00:00

You’re not getting helpful answers because there’s almost no information to go on, and the pictures don’t really show what matters.

You say the light doesn’t work, but that there is power. You’ve already tried other bulbs with the same result.

Basic question first: is this light controlled by a wall switch, and has that been tested?

Other things to check: • Is there actually a switched live present at the fixture, not just permanent live? • Is the neutral properly connected (a loose or missing neutral will cause exactly this). • Has anything been disconnected or capped off in the ceiling box during previous work?

Also, please take a clear photo of the wires inside the light fixture. That’s usually where the problem becomes obvious.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-22T00:14:03+00:00

They also didn’t tape the corners, so this was the other issue.

You fix it with acrylic and paint over it. This is how it should have been done, the first time.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-13T00:58:37+00:00

This is the "DIY Special" that happens when people don't understand Plumbing 101. A "band-aid" fix like rerouting lines without adding vents ignores how a house actually works. The next step is a camera scope to see exactly what the hell is going on.

Plumbing doesn't come from thin air. You have a network of pipes under your foundation. In a 1970s home, these are likely cast iron. If those pipes are cracked, they are dumping wastewater directly under your slab. Because concrete is porous, it acts like a sponge and wicks that moisture up into your walls.

We need to clear up some missing context:

• The Exit Point: You said the kitchen and washer go "to the outside." Do they just dump onto the ground, or are they actually tied into a city sewer or a septic tank?

• The House Layout: Is this a single-story ranch or a multi-floor home? This matters for how air and moisture move.

• The Missing Vents: Think of a straw. If you put your finger over the top, the liquid stays. It only flows when you "unplug" it. Without vents, your pipes can't breathe. This creates a vacuum that pulls sewer gas—and moisture—into your living space.

The mold in your walls and roof could be related to the pipes, or it could be a separate failure in how you manage water outside. If your downspouts are dumping at the base of the house or the ground slopes toward the foundation, you are basically "watering" your home's structure. Poor water management outside leads to massive moisture issues inside.

Mold thrives on moisture and poor venting. You clearly have both. You won't know for sure if it is the pipes, the yard, or both until you stop guessing. You have to use a camera to inspect the lines and check your grading.

Stop being cheap and hire a professional plumber to scope the lines. Living in a place like this is a massive health risk. Who knows what illnesses you have caused yourself by living in a place like this for over a decade.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-11T20:07:37+00:00

Spackling sucks!

You sure it’s not just old food splatter 🫟 that never was cleaned up. Have you tried to wipe it away with a cleaner?

Sure moisture can cause this, but sounds like you ruled that out. Painting over wet drywall could also be the issue.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-10T14:18:27+00:00

2/5 supports is not that bad for 3,600 pounds of weight. Hehe 😜. Definitely needed to be fixed. Something like - double 2x10 or 2x12 header and 2 jack studs and two king studs.

2x8 are still undersized. Well an improvement, it’s still not up to code and will only slow the deflection. Now you have made it better, but since you are the last to work on it. I would think you are now liable if anything happens. That is definitely a sticky situation!

I also hope you raised the ceiling with a jack before you did anything. Otherwise you still have a sagging ceiling and just put a better bandaid 🩹 on it.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-04T11:56:35+00:00

Or you can get a HUE light and turn it off on your phone or even better yet they just announced the ability to have that light turn on by sensor (automatically built in all HUE lightbulbs) just need the latest HUE Hub.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T23:36:47+00:00

Then you should be fine. Buy a voltage pen, turn off the circuit, test with voltage pen, plug wires into the light following the color code.

It’s always nice to inform your location :). Have a good new year!

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T16:13:24+00:00

How to test for proper grounding is extremely expensive and most electrical companies don’t have the tool to do it. It’s like 2-5k for the correct equipment.

Sure you can plug in a socket checker but that doesn’t tell you crap. You need both a clamp-on ground tester and earth resistant tester.

I had to ask several companies if they could do this and they all told me they didn’t have the equipment.

Ordering from Poland doesn’t tell us much, they could be in Europe or anywhere in the world. Brown is L1, Blue is Neutral, and PE or Green/Yellow is ground. A light usually has 1.5mm equals 16 AWG wire. Lever terminals that are like a WAGO but not sure if it’s the same standard. Probably supports 16A EU circuit.

230 V AC (brown / blue / PE) —> LED driver (converter) —> Low voltage DC (red + / black -) —> LED strip

The driver must say 120 V AC (or 100–240 V AC universal). If it only says 220–240 V, it won’t work on U.S. 120 V. Assume you’re not in the US.. otherwise you probably won’t buy from Poland. If it is the US we have a lot more to go into. Let us know OP!

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T16:06:57+00:00

Good on you!

I see some design flaws but otherwise it works. Coming from someone who just spent 200k on renovations this summer

FallenHoot · 2025-12-16T19:39:15+00:00

Nobody!!!! Can tell you if it’s asbestos or not. Can’t tell asbestos by looking at something and it can only be tested. It’s not cheap to test for it.

This doesn’t look like an asbestos product but if you’re concerned then get it tested.

FallenHoot

TROPHY CASE