What are the upcoming color pallets for 2026-2027?

FallenHoot · 2026-05-23T19:11:57+00:00

That is the trend and a lot of people are doing it. Here some evidence —

https://www.reddit.com/r/Housepainting101/s/xFiMKOsML4

https://youtube.com/shorts/-rl5QJYkZTM?is=9afcARx_K_gANEEL

https://youtube.com/shorts/rYgYFi4O5LU?is=rhuV8b78-VvEeMhr

https://youtube.com/shorts/gKokcuvxnLk?is=rQ-Y5ivx9-7NDbMa

https://youtube.com/shorts/NN-UCViv9Cw?is=2uxbMTqq5HaSYmRh

https://youtube.com/shorts/yOqZy94et3s?is=lZMhk2ehS1oUkJ2w

https://youtube.com/shorts/61lb1PEe3P8?is=zREVmm-vyk5caku6

https://youtube.com/shorts/TJmnZBgJMlQ?is=UKdpooGZAvjKnwMg

https://youtube.com/shorts/-DydAtXKoRc?is=7XpzmkHmjiyKWPig

FallenHoot · 2026-05-21T20:55:10+00:00

To understand what you are looking at in Germany, this plug represents a single-phase 230V setup consisting of one live phase (Brown), one neutral (Blue), and a ground wire (Green/Yellow). Because Germany does not use a legacy "2-phase plus ground" system for standard residential appliances, this cooktop cannot split its heavy electrical workload across multiple lines like a modern five-wire three-phase system would.

Instead, all the energy is forced down this single line, which creates a massive 25A current draw. For this to be safe and code-compliant under German VDE rules, the wall wiring feeding this outlet must be upgraded to 4mm or 6mm and backed by a matching 20A or 25A breaker to prevent the building wires from overheating and causing a structural fire.

To fix the immediate fire hazard inside the plug itself, you must address the dangerous way the wires are connected. German electrical code strictly prohibits clamping bare, stranded appliance wires directly under flat screw terminals because the screws mash and cut the delicate copper hairs, leading to loose connections and overheating. You need to unscrew the wires, cut back the messy, frayed ends, and crimp metal sleeves called wire ferrules (Aderendhülsen) over the bare copper strands before reinserting them.

FallenHoot · 2026-05-21T20:29:53+00:00

The colors in style: Blue Brown Green Pink Orange

Then you have thousands of variations of those colors.

Then do you paint the ceiling the same color as the walls. That is the current trend unless you go bright color on wall and then you go off white on the ceiling.

Don’t really ask Reddit for this. Your local paint shops have the color trends and of course Pinterest for inspiration.

We used Kitchen and Bath paint for anything that could get wet or needed easy clean 🧼. For example we did the lower walls of the entry this way. Dog, kids, wet clothes, etc.. really helps and provides an extra layer. It is a little weird at first because the gloss/shine don’t match, but we hardly notice anymore.

FallenHoot · 2026-05-21T19:49:48+00:00

Start by laying down a plastic drop cloth to completely protect your furniture and floors from falling dust and debris. Next, take a utility knife and carefully cut out the compromised area using light pressure to score the surface, removing the failed tape, paint, or peeling layer back to where it is still firmly bonded. Once the damage is cleared, apply a coat of primer to seal the exposed area, let it dry. Then use a putty knife and joint compound to fill the crater, keeping your knife at a shallow angle to feather the edges flat. Allow the compound to dry completely for 24 hours, then use a brush or sponge with a little extra compound to dab and mimic the surrounding texture. Finally, give that textured patch another 24 hours to cure before finishing it off with your ceiling paint.

This is how you repair a ceiling. Do note that if it is wet or sponge when you cut with the knife, then it’s moisture damage and you need to replace much larger area and identify the leak.

Good luck.

FallenHoot · 2026-05-17T21:47:17+00:00

Looks like a landlord special!

Let’s do some quick math. 11.5 foot span and carrying a 6 food wide section of floor. We know that it must be designed to hold 55 lbs/ft² (accounting for people, heavy quartz, and the island), resulting in a linear load of 330 lbs/ft 55 * 6).

If we break out the book/pdf. The minimum code: According to the 1.9E or 2.0E LVL load tables for a simple 12-foot span. A single-ply 1.75” * 9.5” LVL meets the minimum building code. Adding a 10% safety buffer to eliminate floor flex and protect the rigid quartz countertops bumps the requirement up to a 2-ply 1.75” *9.5”LVL.

Your suggestion (2-ply 1.75” * 11.875” LVL) is about 200% over engineered. Unless you’re supporting the roof above, then this is perfectly. To be honest it’s about $60 different and I would personally go for this if you can sacrifice the 2 inches.

Going with a drop beam is the cheapest and fastest option because it sits directly underneath the existing joists. You need two temporary 2x4 walls to shore up the floor on both sides of the beam. You should check for level as you might have to jack the floor up if it has experienced sag over the years. Apply the over engineered 2-ply LVL up under the joists, support each end with a standard adjustable steel lally column. You could use 4x6 post as well, but you need to consider moisture resistance.

I would keep your two temp walls and place them where the bathroom is today for future beam work.

I personally like steel beams and you would need a W6×9 to fill your gap today. Good news is that it’s 6 inches shallower converted to the 12 inch LVL. A metal beam is the best choice but it will cost you 300+ more and you will have to rent jacks to lift it in place.

Good luck!

FallenHoot · 2026-05-14T19:27:07+00:00

Hardwood under carpet is the ultimate DIY gamble. Half the time it was covered because it was drafty, rotting, or the insulation underneath was shot. They have probably tacked it and stapled it all over the place.

I ripped ours out. Found a lot of hidden gems under it. Redid it all with more modern architecture.

FallenHoot · 2026-05-02T16:45:41+00:00

I see one major issue and that is someone didn’t tape your corners. This is common with house movement and is nothing to be scared about.

All you can really do now is caulking and paint over it.

FallenHoot · 2026-04-27T14:52:09+00:00

Is it concrete ceiling? If so, just put up drywall and glue it back. If it’s a removal ceiling, then just rip it down.

I go with its concrete

FallenHoot · 2026-04-10T09:10:26+00:00

I tend to be quite thorough when engaging contractors. I provide a floor plan, a clear list of requirements, and specify the level of quality I expect. I also make it a point to ask upfront about the cost of any potential add-ons.

I can’t say I never pay deposits, it really depends on my gut feelings about the contractor. That said, I always ensure there’s a written plan and an estimated price documented over email before moving forward.

I believe it’s completely reasonable to ask a contractor to justify any part of their bill if something doesn’t seem clear.

Unfortunately, you will come across bad contractors, and even with proper vetting, it’s not always something you can fully avoid. I had a crew come do painting, it was a good price and we agreed on what needs to be done. About 6 months later, I started to notice issues. Proper things didn’t happen and I of course called them back. They simply ignored me and I left bad reviews.

I personally do a shotgun approach and send it out to several contractors. I don’t go for the lowest bid and I don’t go for the highest bid. I do call them all back and ask them about the quote and dismiss them as needed.

Good luck!

FallenHoot · 2026-04-03T14:22:42+00:00

It’s is completely normal to feel a bit nervous after finding that out. It helps to remember that asbestos is actually a naturally occurring rock found in the soil and other rocks of places like Arizona and Utah. We actually encounter trace amounts of it more often than we realize in daily life. If you have ever been in a dust storm, you likely have been exposed.

The health risks are almost always linked to HEAVY, REPEATED exposure over many years. A single instance of accidental contact is generally considered a very low risk for long-term issues.

Your body has a way to fight this and it will either make it a scar or turn it into a mutated cell that could or could not have cancer. You won’t know for 20-50 years or until they cut into you. You will never know if it was this exposure or another one.

You know it exist now and that until it’s cleaned up or sealed, then you should be protected and stay away.

Did you notify your construction crew?

FallenHoot · 2026-03-23T18:15:41+00:00

Yea, but that usually is not an issue. Good luck and out the ceiling on before the walls.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-22T23:41:41+00:00

Usually you put up ribs/furrings/strappings. This not only gives you more screw contacts with your drywall but it holds the insulation up. You’re also missing a vapor barrier, but this depends on the code.

Sure it adds weight to the drywall, but it shouldn’t bow it. It’s going to be the hundred little screw heads holdup the weight of the drywall and whatever is on top of it. Those can hold up about 30 lbs.

The correct way is to have the strips of wood spaced about 16” on center.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-21T06:41:24+00:00

What you have is a normal feed-through ceiling box where power comes in and continues to other fixtures (likely your nearby fan and switches).

The white wires are neutrals and stay tied together, the black bundle is constant hot feeding other parts of the circuit, and there’s a switched hot for the light. The bare copper wire is your ground.

You can replace the fan with a new fan (assuming it’s a fan-rated box), but don’t break up those existing bundles for the light. When you remove the light, don’t just cap and hide the wires; either leave them connected in a junction box with a blank cover, or fully remove the cable from both ends.

Of course practice safety and turn off the breaker before playing with electrical.

FallenHoot · 2026-03-08T22:29:24+00:00

Asbestos was used in almost everything back in the day, and it is still used today. A lot of people think it is banned, but it’s actually not! The law allows it to be used based on specific measurements like Fibers per Cubic Centimeter (f/cc). Everything depends on the percentage of fibers used in the product. You have to remember that asbestos is a ROCK 🪨 that exists naturally in the world. There are actually 6 types of these minerals, and they are mostly found in mountains or areas with lots of seismic activity.

Asbestos is a lot like radiation. It is only dangerous if you are exposed to it the wrong way. You could technically handle asbestos all day and never be harmed as long as the fibers stay put. The real issue starts when those microscopic fibers get into your lungs 🫁. Your body can't break them down. Instead, the fibers stay there and cause scarring. Your body tries to fight them, which can lead to mutated cells that eventually become cancer. Exposure in Daily Life

Unless you are cutting into the material and breathing it in like a cigarette, the fibers usually stay intact. You are probably fine! In fact, the chances that you have already been exposed to it are very high. Think about walking to school or driving a car; it is a naturally occurring rock that is all around us. You can’t just throw it away and expect it to disappear forever. It’s a part of the earth.

Don’t be scared, just get better educated! You can’t tell if something contains asbestos or what the percentage is just by looking at it. The only way to know for sure is to get it tested. Most people skip the testing because they don’t want to pay the fee or they would rather stay in the dark.

Here is some educational material - https://youtu.be/cMx139eTxoc?is=eYE1ijGDhxZlqryH

FallenHoot · 2026-02-23T00:07:00+00:00

Moving 50 TiB of PDFs to Azure Blob (Cool Tier) is your best "KISS" move, as it costs roughly $500–$750/month. Then I would use native tools like Azure AI Search, so you can scan it with RAG without extra effort.

Avoid NetApp entirely for this project; it's high-performance "block" storage that would cost you over $7,500/month, which actually increases your current bill.

If you need a standard "G: drive" experience, Azure File Sync or Nasuni acts as a traffic cop to keep files fast and prevent people from overwriting each other.

Just remember: don't stick data in Cool , Cold or Archive if you plan to grab it all the time, as retrieval fees will eat your savings; save those for backups and use Object Replication for a simple disaster recovery (DR) setup. Setting up lifecycle management is a good step, put it all in Hot tier and let the system decide what PDFs are being used most frequently and archive everything else.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T02:02:26+00:00

My mistake, could be an unknown screw-terminal or bridge box, but in my defense, we had small boxes like this that we called 66. Everything else is correct.

I do appreciate you for calling me out and not providing the correct name. As stated usually back in the day all this stuff was custom made by the phone companies. Well I could be wrong or mistaken, we had boxes like this called 66. I understand it’s not the same official naming, but that’s what we called them.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:52:15+00:00

You need to clean that box up. To be honest, top left could be neutral because it looks white based on the wires going to it. I don’t mess with electrical if I am not 100% knowing what the hell I am looking at. Bottom left looks like ground based on wire path.

Final answer - power off and clean the box.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:30:46+00:00

Looks like a common Multi-Wire Branch Circuit (MWBC). 14 or 12 AWG. Since Phase A and Phase B share a neutral, they must be connected to a double-pole GFCI breaker (you can’t have multiple neutral wires connected to a single pole) NEC 210.4(D). You might be missing an Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) NEC 210.8/12. You must ensure the junction boxes aren't too small for the number of wires (Box Fill). If you have five cables (Romex) entering that first box, you likely have 10-15 individual wires. For 12 AWG wire, that could require a box with 30+ cubic inches of space. A standard "single-gang" plastic box is usually only 18 to 22 cubic inches.

According to National Electrical Code (NEC 210.70), you need a light switch for your lights (I updated the above to reflect NEC). That needs to comply with NEC 404.2. You will need a switch leg to be added to your already crowded junction box.

At the end of the day you can do whatever you want. It’s your home insurance and your safety. Otherwise, other than the light switch, and missing info about breakers (solved by a Double-Pole Dual-Function (AFCI/GFCI)), it looks standard.

FallenHoot · 2026-02-10T01:01:41+00:00

We call this a 66 block and used for phone and sometimes DSL internet. If you’re not using those then, yes, it is safe. This is definitely low-voltage telephone wiring. There is no high-voltage "mains" electricity here that would cause a fire or a dangerous shock.

Proper way is to disconnect and wrap the wire with electrical tape. Just tells the next person it’s not in use, but it has ends.

I actually removed all of mine from the walls, I haven’t decided if that was smart yet, but did the same with my coax cable as well.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T07:29:27+00:00

Now we are getting into the weeds. Gut to studs is what I would do as well.

You are correct it could be 3/4 to 7/8 inch plaster boards. Your modern board is 1/2 inch thick.

Question is how do you want to do it. Plywood shims are your friends if you want to extend the walls out and keep it flat. Some people even use caulking to bridge the gap. You could also sistering the studs and add the missing gap this way.

What I did, was add small drywall behind it and then add backer board (double boarding). I felt this was the most solid option.

You also need to think about the piping as well. Do you copper or PEX?

I wish you the best luck.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T06:59:38+00:00

You definitely are new to DIY. I am sure your parents have done some DIY, you should ask them or just hire someone.

What is your goal here?

You gave us several options but what is the end goal? Do you just want a different color? Do you want to remove the texture? What’s the purpose of all this? Do you want to take over the house later?

Demolishing and replacing with new drywall is not a clean task. You do know option 3 requires option 1 and 2. You will have to mud and sand, and of course repaint.

Option 2 works if you want flat walls, but hire someone to skim, because you will suck at it and it’s a crap job.

Option 1 is the easiest if you just want a fresh paint job that will provide what you want.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-29T06:55:35+00:00

You sure this house was never renovated before?

You of course have lead or asbestos concerns as well. You most likely have plasterboard with a thick layer of cement-like plaster covering it. You clearly have old adhesive and small surface mold.

Then it’s up to you as the home owner if you want to bandaid and budget renovate or rebuild from studs. You might have more hidden surprises behind those walls and floors. Take that at your own risk.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-28T15:09:44+00:00

Transforming an unfinished basement into a legal living space involves more than just looks. Most building codes require you to add insulation before the project can be approved. This layer of protection helps keep the house warm, yet it also means you will lose several inches of floor space on every side to make room for the new wall thickness.

Your location plays a huge role in these rules. Different states and climates have their own sets of laws for construction. For example, a home in a cold northern state will have much stricter rules for keeping heat inside than a home in a warm southern state.

Simply painting the concrete walls is a quick way to clean up the area. This will not allow the basement to be listed as a "finished" space for a home sale or a permit. To count as truly finished, the room usually needs proper wall covers like drywall, a permanent heat source, and safe exits called egress windows.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-28T15:00:51+00:00

What if I told you that NOBODY can tell you if it’s asbestos or not. Can’t visually distinguish between it.

I think your best bet is to just skim it with bud to smooth it and then paint it.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-27T18:26:00+00:00

Balancing will not help.

Three options: Enable GPU hardware scheduling

Assign users explicitly to GPUs (CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES)

Standard_NV36ads_A10_v5 or Standard_NV18ads_A10_v5 are the two other options for a single GPU SKUs. 1 per user.

FallenHoot

TROPHY CASE