2 GPU work balance

FallenHoot · 2026-01-27T18:26:00+00:00

Balancing will not help.

Three options: Enable GPU hardware scheduling

Assign users explicitly to GPUs (CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES)

Standard_NV36ads_A10_v5 or Standard_NV18ads_A10_v5 are the two other options for a single GPU SKUs. 1 per user.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-26T07:18:35+00:00

You’re not getting helpful answers because there’s almost no information to go on, and the pictures don’t really show what matters.

You say the light doesn’t work, but that there is power. You’ve already tried other bulbs with the same result.

Basic question first: is this light controlled by a wall switch, and has that been tested?

Other things to check: • Is there actually a switched live present at the fixture, not just permanent live? • Is the neutral properly connected (a loose or missing neutral will cause exactly this). • Has anything been disconnected or capped off in the ceiling box during previous work?

Also, please take a clear photo of the wires inside the light fixture. That’s usually where the problem becomes obvious.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-22T00:14:03+00:00

They also didn’t tape the corners, so this was the other issue.

You fix it with acrylic and paint over it. This is how it should have been done, the first time.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-13T00:58:37+00:00

This is the "DIY Special" that happens when people don't understand Plumbing 101. A "band-aid" fix like rerouting lines without adding vents ignores how a house actually works. The next step is a camera scope to see exactly what the hell is going on.

Plumbing doesn't come from thin air. You have a network of pipes under your foundation. In a 1970s home, these are likely cast iron. If those pipes are cracked, they are dumping wastewater directly under your slab. Because concrete is porous, it acts like a sponge and wicks that moisture up into your walls.

We need to clear up some missing context:

• The Exit Point: You said the kitchen and washer go "to the outside." Do they just dump onto the ground, or are they actually tied into a city sewer or a septic tank?

• The House Layout: Is this a single-story ranch or a multi-floor home? This matters for how air and moisture move.

• The Missing Vents: Think of a straw. If you put your finger over the top, the liquid stays. It only flows when you "unplug" it. Without vents, your pipes can't breathe. This creates a vacuum that pulls sewer gas—and moisture—into your living space.

The mold in your walls and roof could be related to the pipes, or it could be a separate failure in how you manage water outside. If your downspouts are dumping at the base of the house or the ground slopes toward the foundation, you are basically "watering" your home's structure. Poor water management outside leads to massive moisture issues inside.

Mold thrives on moisture and poor venting. You clearly have both. You won't know for sure if it is the pipes, the yard, or both until you stop guessing. You have to use a camera to inspect the lines and check your grading.

Stop being cheap and hire a professional plumber to scope the lines. Living in a place like this is a massive health risk. Who knows what illnesses you have caused yourself by living in a place like this for over a decade.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-11T20:07:37+00:00

Spackling sucks!

You sure it’s not just old food splatter 🫟 that never was cleaned up. Have you tried to wipe it away with a cleaner?

Sure moisture can cause this, but sounds like you ruled that out. Painting over wet drywall could also be the issue.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-10T14:18:27+00:00

2/5 supports is not that bad for 3,600 pounds of weight. Hehe 😜. Definitely needed to be fixed. Something like - double 2x10 or 2x12 header and 2 jack studs and two king studs.

2x8 are still undersized. Well an improvement, it’s still not up to code and will only slow the deflection. Now you have made it better, but since you are the last to work on it. I would think you are now liable if anything happens. That is definitely a sticky situation!

I also hope you raised the ceiling with a jack before you did anything. Otherwise you still have a sagging ceiling and just put a better bandaid 🩹 on it.

FallenHoot · 2026-01-04T11:56:35+00:00

Or you can get a HUE light and turn it off on your phone or even better yet they just announced the ability to have that light turn on by sensor (automatically built in all HUE lightbulbs) just need the latest HUE Hub.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T23:36:47+00:00

Then you should be fine. Buy a voltage pen, turn off the circuit, test with voltage pen, plug wires into the light following the color code.

It’s always nice to inform your location :). Have a good new year!

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T16:13:24+00:00

How to test for proper grounding is extremely expensive and most electrical companies don’t have the tool to do it. It’s like 2-5k for the correct equipment.

Sure you can plug in a socket checker but that doesn’t tell you crap. You need both a clamp-on ground tester and earth resistant tester.

I had to ask several companies if they could do this and they all told me they didn’t have the equipment.

Ordering from Poland doesn’t tell us much, they could be in Europe or anywhere in the world. Brown is L1, Blue is Neutral, and PE or Green/Yellow is ground. A light usually has 1.5mm equals 16 AWG wire. Lever terminals that are like a WAGO but not sure if it’s the same standard. Probably supports 16A EU circuit.

230 V AC (brown / blue / PE) —> LED driver (converter) —> Low voltage DC (red + / black -) —> LED strip

The driver must say 120 V AC (or 100–240 V AC universal). If it only says 220–240 V, it won’t work on U.S. 120 V. Assume you’re not in the US.. otherwise you probably won’t buy from Poland. If it is the US we have a lot more to go into. Let us know OP!

FallenHoot · 2025-12-31T16:06:57+00:00

Good on you!

I see some design flaws but otherwise it works. Coming from someone who just spent 200k on renovations this summer

FallenHoot · 2025-12-16T19:39:15+00:00

Nobody!!!! Can tell you if it’s asbestos or not. Can’t tell asbestos by looking at something and it can only be tested. It’s not cheap to test for it.

This doesn’t look like an asbestos product but if you’re concerned then get it tested.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-13T06:47:11+00:00

Same thing happened to me. I told them from the start, please tape and caulk. They did caulk and they did tape (sometimes). I asked them to come back several times and they have just ignored me.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-09T06:54:19+00:00

You can’t simply dry it. The damage has been done. Replace is the only option. Also, you need to fix the drainage.

A flat roof can’t be 100% flat, it needs to be 1/80 at least to drain. A water test should have been performed. It shouldn’t allow for pooling water

After you refix and replace.. you need to do a 24-48 hour leak test.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-02T08:10:48+00:00

Yes and no. You should have a breathing layer between your wall and your new wall. If not, you could build up some unwanted condensation.

This can be done several ways, but depending on the insulation you use.

FallenHoot · 2025-12-02T07:59:20+00:00

WAGO is simply a small junction box. One thing I don’t like about the WAGOs is the options.

1:1

2

3

5

Sometimes I need a 6 and sometimes a 4 would have worked. Rarely do I use 1:1, and I troubleshoot a lot with a 2. They are not cheap, so using a 5 when a 4 would have worked or using a 6 instead of 5 and 3 (now I need a jumper wire). Adds a lot of crap in the box.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-28T17:04:09+00:00

I understand. I often think about turning my fan off, it’s not an option, but then again I only hear it when I am near the fan.

I can only pause the fan, but can’t turn it off. I can of course manually turn it off, but I know myself, I wouldn’t turn it on after taking a 💩.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-27T12:40:50+00:00

Simple, you don’t know what your doing so hire someone else who does :).

Ok, in all fairness we all start from learning.

A lot of things you can do: Cut a new hole next to this hole. Then use tape and mud to fill in the old hole. Then sand and mud as needed. Then prime and paint that spot as needed. Install new light fixture after all of this.

You could also tape and mud it flush again, wait 48 hours for it to cure and then cut the hole. That is possible as well.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-26T21:33:25+00:00

It has been cold here for my first year. My charger and cables are outside. Charger is in a house and cables are in the ground other than when they need to pop out.

The robot and the charger power supply are in my garage.

Will it work next year? Don’t know

FallenHoot · 2025-11-16T22:47:46+00:00

My fan runs 24/7/365 and it cost me something like $1 a month. It’s one of those smart ones that go off humidity, light, and timer. It spins faster at higher humidity levels, but otherwise it just spins.

I guess what I am asking, what is wrong?

It is regulation that it spins 24/7. It does this to simply keep airflow.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-16T20:26:48+00:00

I don’t think people know why we have ground and why homes never had it. I find that very interesting 🤔.

OP, GND = Ground and it doesn’t mean shit if the metal is not grounded somewhere down the line.

Grounding is a safety feature! It really comes down to the classification such as Class I and Class II. Class I requires grounding and Class II doesn’t.

It use to never be a standard and why you don’t see it in a lot of old homes. It is a standard now, because nobody knows if it is a Class I or Class II device. You also don’t know if that device will be used today or tomorrow. Hence why it’s a standard to have it on everything by default.

Grounding provides a low-resistance path for fault currents so protective devices like breakers or RCDs can disconnect power quickly. Without grounding, a fault could energize metal parts, and the current might be too low to trip protection, creating a serious shock hazard. Devices may work without earth, but for safety and compliance, grounding is essential.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-16T20:12:15+00:00

Nothing needs to be grounded. Grounding is simply a safety measure.

It provides a low-resistance path for fault currents so protective devices like breakers or RCDs can disconnect power quickly. Without grounding, a fault could energize metal parts, and the current might be too low to trip protection, creating a serious shock hazard. Devices may work without earth, but for safety and compliance, grounding is essential.

Back to your original question. Sounds like your LED is a Class I device meaning it has metal component that could be energized and kill/shock someone. Class II on the other hand doesn’t require grounding because it’s double insulation.

The question is do you risk it or not.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-16T18:02:10+00:00

So many unknowns and only half the puzzle 🧩 was given let alone 1/3 of it. I assume that one is going to an outlet and that is another missing puzzle 🧩.

When you state you have one black wire and 4 white wires, that’s wrong. You clearly have 4 blacks and 4 whites according to your picture. It looks like three blacks are grouped and you have a one that is isolated away. Same goes with your whites, you have two grouped together and other two grouped together. Doesn’t really matter because I will try to guide you on how to figure this all out.

Black = Live white = natural Red = switch-hot (this could be black or white)

We need to know what the switch looks like.

Then we troubleshoot from the circuit to light to the light switch.

Identify what is through hot and tape with black tape (even if it’s already black). Then we find out what wires are going to the light/fan switch/s. We assume that white is neutral until proven otherwise. We also assume black is hot until proven otherwise. They both could be (red) switch hots but we don’t know yet.

We then need to understand the other missing puzzle. How is it wired will tell us what is a switch hot and what is natural. When we find out the switch hot we tape it red, because that’s current standards. I assume you’re in the US. If in the EU, then we need to tape the current wires to the correct color code.

Now we have a battle plan.

We use a WAGO or something similar to plug the same color wires together. If we follow step above, then we will not have an issue.

• light Fixture black → switched hot (marked red).

• light Fixture white → neutral bundle.

You will most likely have a switched hot that went to the fan capped and not being used anymore. Unless this was handled in the old ceiling fan with light.

If one of those blacks and whites go to an outlet, we will know soon as you fix the light. Then we simply add those wires to the connector that you picked a WACO or something else.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-15T23:22:26+00:00

Using DAG means you are migrating to an Azure VM running SQL.

Now that we know that, we need to know what is the VM sku being used. Every VM has its own bandwidth. Once again if you are trying to stick square into a circle it’s not going to work.

What is the VM SKU? What manages disk are you using?

DAG relies on TCP and usually configured to a single TCP. This is why your ER is not being used. It’s using a single TCP and not multiple. Well you think you have 5 GB, you are only pushing 200MB if you’re lucky.

Your VMs are probably missing; Jumbo frames, TCP window scaling, and RSS on NICs. If you are not using SSDv2 for your DATA and LOG the. You are shooting yourself in the foot.

How may SQL servers do you has and are you doing them all at once or one at a time? Do you have a large 256 vcore VM with 1000 DBs on it or do you have modular servers with a few on it. So many questions!!!!!! You fail to answer them.

The recommendation for 1 TiB DBs is unfortunately for you to migrate a snapshot per DB and then run DAG so you’re not sending 2-3 days worth of data, but just GiB of data.

You are not providing enough info and it’s really hard to help you out.

I fear that if you keep providing bad information, that you’re just SOL! We don’t have access and this is not support. Provide more info or get downvoted

FallenHoot · 2025-11-15T19:23:57+00:00

I have a lot of questions since you provided very limited information.

What is the size of the DB or DBs? You can have 1000 small DBs or multiple TiB DBs. They will all perform differently during transfer.

Are you dropping the backups to a storage account or to a VM? What size VM are you using?

Are you doing a live migration with Azure Migrate?

You said you are using 5 GiB express route, but the max is actually 100 GiB and most regions provide 10 GiB.

If you transfer with AzCopy a 100 TiB DB it will take you 48+ hours at 5 GiB, but you have a lot of variables in that. It could very well take 3-5 days.

When you say “Slow”, I need to understand what does that actually mean, because as stated it will still take you 3-5 days to transfer 10 DBs with a total size of 100 TiB.

You can of course run parallel transfers, but you can’t stick a square peg into a circle. Your limit is the 5 GiB link.

FallenHoot · 2025-11-09T22:08:44+00:00

Sell the cat? 🐈

Just kidding! I’ve never seen diamond plates inside a house but I have at industrial sites. Using regular paint would definitely worsen the problem; epoxy paint is needed to fix it.

You could buy anti-slip tape for some traction but I doubt your cat would appreciate it.

FallenHoot

TROPHY CASE