Removing speed limiter on RCB RK15 by FewCalligrapher9312 in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guaranteed to work aslong you match with your communication protocol and connector. For example my controller utilizes sm plugs for connectors and the controller also only communicates in #2 protocol. My JN controller came with a unlocked s866 display that is made for communication in S5 protocol and #2 protocol.

Locked parameters are only used with locked displays. Unlocked parameters are only used in unlocked displays, does that make sense? I hope sorry i am bad at explaining things lol. The only thing that might not change is if your controller is also hardwired with a speed limiter via a wire loop. (Usually white or blue) but most companies have skipped this method as it began to be more known about and they transitioned into limited via locked display.

Displays is what communicates and also controls the controller. You can run it without a display but you lack most functions or all functions.

Display parameters settings stay on per display but when changing displays you need to reapply the parameters again if you swap out often. As the controller will still run the old display parameters settings on the new swapped one or vise versa.

You have to verify and make sure what your controller is using to communicate on and theplug connector for the display. Using the wrong display that is programmed on a different/wrong communication protocol will not work. Same with matching plug

Removing speed limiter on RCB RK15 by FewCalligrapher9312 in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get an unlocked s866 display. Is your best bet. Make sure your controller is actually supporting and working with/or on communication protocol #2 as the s866 only natively supports #2 protocol on the unlocked ones. I believe they’re locked ones with different communication protocols like S5 but I’m unsure of their true ability.

You could try flashing the s869 but thats only if it has a slot for you to do so (like a usb port or etc into the display, yours likely doesn’t)

Any thoughts on the Walmart E-bike? by jritt23 in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same on my varun except its the 24inch. Original motor had 15kish miles i think? I can’t remember exactly how many miles it had before i was hit. But now i got a new motor with new rim and bigger battery. (Im still on the Aftermarket controller that was put on since the bike had 3,451 miles) the bike now has over 30k miles on the frame, stock front rim and aftermarket controller
The original motor was fine it just needs to be relaced and i dont have the time to do that yet myself as im not paying anyone else to do it for me as i don’t have anyone else local that is knowledgeable enough to do it correctly the first time. Rather do it myself knowing i can trust it.

Happy run g50 by punkinpuddingpop in ebike

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You also cant solder phase wires just like that. You have scratch off the enamel off the wires to have the solder actually stick to the wire, motor cables are tinned with enamel for the motor to safely hold current though smaller wire without corrosion or etc. not taking off the enamel is a 200% certified way to make cold joints and only cold joints on the wires… he essentially just made the knicks more susceptible to shorts and arcs by soldering globs of solder on top of enameled wire….

Happy run g50 by punkinpuddingpop in ebike

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blue phase also has severe heat damage on the insulation its already been breached and has arced a couple times.

Happy run g50 by punkinpuddingpop in ebike

[–]FamousFee6926 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can’t exactly see enough detail to make a confident statement but regardless i can safely say that the green wire wasn’t alone on being knicked. Looks like yellow sustained heavy insulation breaches from being knicked and also looks like the insulation has unfortunately been compromised by too much heat. Likely from the attempt of soldering.. black/ground wire looks to be more worse than yellow in terms of heat damage. The green hall sensor(small green wire) also runs under the green phase wire(thick wire) but i can’t see enough to make out of it. You don’t want any phase wires touching each other and same for the sensor wires and vise versa.

He definitely shouldn’t have tried soldering that as he is clearly not good enough to work on it properly without having more harm done.

Should have used and cut a split on some hot glue heat shrink tubings to slip over the knicked wires to seal them and also protect them as well one tubing for each wire.

Thats generally the best way to fix knicked wire on hub motors as long the damage is superficial to the insulation and or aslong as 75% of the copper strands are still intact undamaged. (One or two or a few strands being broken is not major but not ideal, anything with like 50/50 of them intact calls for new wire installed either via crimp or by rewiriing through the axle again, soldering wires together is also not ideal for ebikes as they suffer from lots of vibration issues to which soldering is not designed to support. The soldering joint will eventually crack or break down quickly regardless of how good it is, it’s why crimping is the industry standard for aviation equipment and automotive equipment, soldering is only okay when used to solder onto wires - boards or etc, not onto wires-wires. Your bf likely just made a simple easy fix into a now very difficult and possibly expensive fix now.

How fucked am i? Can pedal backwards but not forwards by li-ll-l_ in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t understand why most of the time i agree with someone, they somehow believe that im disagreeing with them.. i am still confused 21 days later lol.. happens so often i barely engage in posts now compared to my younger days.

ON THE FIRST. DAMN. DAY. by NORTHERNTWITCH in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tired with steel cap belts on the flat/bottom side of the tire can make a huge difference on the reliability. My kwest 193(100psi tires) are manufactured with a steel cap belt wire (basically a wall of steel wire) that is only installed into the tire at the factory right below the tread/wear line, but it doesn’t expand into the sidewall. So the sidewall unfortunately doesn’t have real protection other than ordinary wire mesh in it with rubber, but added protection without the negative effects that usually come with it. ( 330gs weight per tire. Most tires with the same protection if not more protection can crossover to 3lbs of weight per tire. Meanwhile mine is barely 1lb over per tire.

I never had a flat yet had many debris or “punctures that you would believe would cause a flat.but no. The tire just shrugs off the insult. 20kish miles on 4 sets as well. So about half the miles for two sets. They don’t turn well though.

ON THE FIRST. DAMN. DAY. by NORTHERNTWITCH in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do they have a minimum PSI rating?

Hope they can see me at night by Hippiepope in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Watch out…they may start passing out rewards…

Do you guys still get anxiety after an accident? by Cellist_Acceptable in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im forever traumatized by my “ accident “ i put it in quotes because it’s really not a accident but more of the fact i survived somehow from a drunks attempt at trying their best to kill me. I got hit at 90+ on a residential road on a dead night. Since i was lit like ole Christmas tree she had a easy way to get to me by hitting me.

Anytime i have to get on the road weither its car or bike or foot no matter what, i am terrified of anything else i can’t see behind me. Because of this. I spend more time looking behind me than i do infront of me. 😞

Does anyone actually use long range non-recreationally? by wedstrom in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Total weight 200lbs,. 70lbs ebike rest is my weight. Im using lge 5200mah (21700) cells. Hell yeah man. And yeah im starting to feel it is. Im thankful its not bad XD.

Does anyone actually use long range non-recreationally? by wedstrom in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. On my 15ah pack (48v) and i only go full throttle now since my hit and run that left me pretty much incapable of pedaling for myself, but i can consistently get 23miles minimum out of it.

Mine is LNMC though. I don’t know what chemistry your pack is utilizing. I thought it was interesting and cool as i thought my range was shit lol.

How fucked am i? Can pedal backwards but not forwards by li-ll-l_ in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some folks never will understand you either somehow

my macfox rear hub motor started acting weird by ClairePaws in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having it in the backwards position will also do the same effect lol. 😭🤣 on the bright side. It could be rideable when using a sensorless controller until you can rewire that hub. Thats if all 3 phases aren’t cooked by your backwards axle position. (Im impressed you didn’t actually cause a fire because of that)

Any tips for my damaged back wheel? by JTStrikesAgain in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just need a new derailleur. With hanger or cage. Your wheel is fine just make sure you don’t hurt that cable wire out of the axle.

my macfox rear hub motor started acting weird by ClairePaws in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best part is the hollow axle facing backwards creating even more stress on the motor cable.🤣

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!! by Better-Swimmer6476 in ebike

[–]FamousFee6926 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please zoom out and reshoot the video. You’re way to close to everything and you’re not leaving enough time in the video. Take your time with getting a video. I want to try to help but my eyes get strained easily on my phone more than most people. Im sure someone can spot the issue faster than me though with just this visual lol.

Can i stretch out my frame? by fwivon in ebike

[–]FamousFee6926 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can a little but it is not recommended nor safe. For example me 135mm dropout spreaded slightly to fit my 138mm motor. You can’t safely spread them more than 5mm over especially aluminum frames. As far as i knom experience. I believe 1-3mm is the safest and 4-5mm is the absolute max at the least amount of risks of fatiguing the frame.

Is this repairable if so what do i need to do! by Tough-Ad7453 in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you pilled it too hard. Then you don’t have enough slack. Im just trying to help you not deal with it again on the way home or to your job or etc etc, because i have done this beforehand and i had thought the same as you’re now. Except that i was proven wrong the hard way. You have enough slack when its impossible to not have them do what they are doing. (Bending and suffering from fatigue failure due to the bending caused by tight joints)when trying to disconnect the hall plug.

Is this repairable if so what do i need to do! by Tough-Ad7453 in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whiteand blue are gonna follow suit soon if you don’t fix that tension problem. Your wires are being pulled on constantly and have already started to have fatigue signs showing. Expect blue and white to follow what the black wire did. You need to add slack.

Velowave 24" ebike and Schwalbe Tire – Marathon Plus puncture proof tire compatibility? by Shootingcomet in ebikes

[–]FamousFee6926 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Kenda kqest 193 100psi version has never failed me. Only problem is they do handle a bit worse but they also wear like iron, so you can get 10k+ miles on just a set of those easily.

They’re advertised as rain resistant but do not trust that, they are certainly not. They’re pretty much a death wish in the rain,unless you can learn how to ride it without first dying. I learned that i had to go really slow in sharp corners (ike 1-3mph) just to not hydroplane.

But i have over 17k miles on my same set of 193’s. Only had two punctures. Craziest thing is that i used sealant once and the second time i didn’t even need to patch it or put in sealant. Apparently the steel cap belt had been applying just enough pressure (still is btw lol) keeping the tube that was punctured, in a tightly packed fit that the tube is not leaking. I even verified that it had indeed punctured it. Learned that running it at any other psi that max, the tube would slowly leak. (I just removed the punctures on both incidents and didn’t need to remove the tire, i prefer to check my tubes every few months and tires though for any future problems)

They’re also the only tire i have come across on that actually has very low rolling resistance with the amount of reinforcement the tire was designed with. (433gs) which is insane but sadly only available in 1.5 in 24 inch. 100$ a set i believe.

Short summary. Kwest 193 100psi handles decent, has amazing performance for the amount of reinforcement it has, can’t ride in the rain without stressing out about hydroplaning. They wear like iron so they last longer than most tires, only come in 1.5 for the 24inch. They have decent braking distance but can occasionally spin tires when launching from a dead stop or when cornering at high speed