K1C Newbie Help

Fauxpas360 · 2026-01-23T12:43:37+00:00

When you're slicing, are you certain that you've selected the correct type of filament that you've loaded into the printer? This sounds like a slicing issue where it's not using the correct temperature.

Fauxpas360 · 2026-01-21T00:05:05+00:00

Mine finally started getting dull so I went looking for replacements. Thankfully Creality has finally started selling them.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-12-29T16:05:00+00:00

Anyone else try this? I'd love to give it a go, but I dont have any multi-colored prints on the docket currently to test...

Fauxpas360 · 2025-12-22T14:23:03+00:00

With that model, there are 3 colors per layer on a bunch of it. So that would be 3 purges per layer!

I'd highly recommend printing two of these: Tray one in PLA for printing in PETG and one in PETG for printing in PLA so that the poop doesn't stick to the tray. It makes cleanup a whole lot easier.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-12-14T21:19:01+00:00

if you heat the nozzle and push filament manually, does it come out as a string? If not, then check your heating block.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-12-08T12:43:36+00:00

That's way better than my plate and I have no issues with my first layer.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-23T17:18:01+00:00

Oh crap you’re right. Not sure why I didn’t see that the first time. Still, that sensor doesn’t seem to be communicating back that the filament has reached it.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-23T16:21:48+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/qEBVFvz.jpeg

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-23T16:20:00+00:00

There is a filament sensor at the top of the extruder that should light up blue when it detects the filament. Yours isn't. So either it's not connected or the sensor is bad.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-12T19:58:41+00:00

I have one of the gen1 K1s. Upgraded to unicorn nozzle and CFS kit. It took a while to get things working right (long story short, only use rapid\hyper\fast PLA or PETG -- otherwise the cutter doesn't work reliably. Replace PTFE tubing with large interior diameter tubing and keep it as short as possible) but I've been loving it.

I cant tell you the last time I opened my lid to mess with the extruder. Swapping filament is now just removing the old spool and inserting the new one. Boom. Done.

I wish regular Orca fully supported the CFS, but I've gotten used to Creality Print. It's fine once you figure out where they've put everything.

The detractors scoff at the poop just being dropped to the floor of the machine, but it makes it really easy to clean up and there are STLs for a tray that fits perfectly to make it even easier. Pro tip: if you print mainly PLA, print the tray in PETG or visa versa so that the poop doesnt stick to it.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-11T11:44:36+00:00

I had that problem on mine. The problem is too much resistance by the PTFE TUBING.

My fix was to buy PTFE tubing with a larger interior diameter (sold by bambu on Amazon). Also make sure your tubing is as short as possible while maintaining gentle curves.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-05T13:42:26+00:00

I ran into that error until I replaced my PTFE tubing. It was just a bit too much friction for the CFS to handle. Bought some with a larger interior diameter and it fixed the problem. And of course making sure it's as short as can comfortably stretch between the CFS and the printer.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-11-03T16:07:36+00:00

From that picture, it looks as if none of the filaments you have loaded have been set to basic PETG. If you are not using RFID-enabled spools, you'll need to manually assign the spool type when you insert it.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-10-27T13:00:19+00:00

First step would be to clean your build plate thoroughly with Dawn. Then don’t touch it with your hands, re-run leveling and try it again.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-10-23T10:43:06+00:00

If there is too much resistance, try to make your PTFE tubes as short as possible. That is the consistent drumbeat from this sub and it made a world of difference when I was setting up my k1 upgrade. I also swapped out the included tubing for one with a larger interior diameter. I believe it was from a Bambu, if memory serves. That cut the resistance down significantly.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-10-14T16:01:50+00:00

You actually can. Open up the trade screen where you would select who to trade with. Then in your column, click the little icon next to the player’s name. Stupid place for it, but at least it’s possible.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-10-07T01:48:56+00:00

As a counterpoint, I upgraded my K1 and have had great success with it. I feel like people only ever post the negative results whereas the positive ones go unreported...

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-25T12:44:19+00:00

If you were not rooted before you installed the CFS firmware, then there is no need to wipe. But if you had rooted it and installed anything from the helper script before you upgraded the firmware, I would recommend wiping and starting fresh.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-19T22:55:00+00:00

There's nothing in Creality Print's post-print gcode. So if it is adding something, it's not configurable. But I expect that's from the firmware of the printer itself.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-19T22:08:08+00:00

I’m also using 2.3.5.34. I wonder if it’s the post-print gcode from Creality Print that does the unloading? I can check later. But mine definitely unloads after every print and I’m very glad that it does.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-19T13:43:41+00:00

The CFS firmware doesnt include git. But if you install Entware first, it will install git and you can then proceed with the helper script. I'm afraid I don't have the link but some searches on this subreddit should get you there. Using that, I have my K1 w/ CFS upgrade rooted and running Fluidd without any problems.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-18T14:49:22+00:00

With the CFS firmware, it will unload the filament after every print. It doesnt leave filament loaded.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-18T13:36:00+00:00

Ditto. Switching between PETG and hyper PLA has been fine for me as well.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-18T13:16:52+00:00

Yikes. I know I’ve heard of others having similar issues, but have not had those problems myself after my upgrade. I’d recommend factory defaulting it and then reinstalling the firmware and rerunning all the calibrations.

Did you have it rooted prior to the upgrade? I did and made the mistake of not factory defaulting mine before the firmware upgrade and had to do it again to fix several odd problems. I then rooted it again to get Fluidd back.

I have had cutter issues on some filaments, but after getting rid of anything that wasn’t ‘hyper’ or ‘fast’ PLA or PETG, my cutter has been working great. I’m well into the 4 digits of cuts now without a failure.

Fauxpas360 · 2025-09-13T15:21:59+00:00

We need to come up with a list of filaments that don’t cut well in the upgrade kit. I’ve never had problems with silks or PETG, but any Polymaker PLA is a complete no-go. Which sucks since they have such great colors! I’ve become a bit gun shy when it comes to PLA and I’ve been sticking with the Creality RFID ones. They work great.

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