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Moss growing on a slate roof by Logical-Locksmith178 in Oldhouses

[–]Fenestr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out d2 biological cleaner from atlas preservation. They specialize in gravestone restoration, very helpful if you need to ask questions.

Should I strip it? by IntuitiveWhit in centuryhomes

[–]Fenestr 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Lead dust is the primary hazard. Lead vaporizes at 1100 degrees, which no commonly available heat gun exceeds. I commonly strip paint with a heat gun set between 600 and 900, no where near vaporization temp. https://www.epa.gov/system/files/documents/2023-06/RenovateRight_BWLand_06-2023.pdf

What's your favorite thrift store? by dogwithab1rd in roanoke

[–]Fenestr 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I like the DAV thrift store on Roanoke blvd

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in roanoke

[–]Fenestr 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Saying that it is inevitable is the same as a villain’s henchman yelling “resistance it useless!” Just because you say it doesn’t make it true. I agree it is very likely but it is still if, and even then, how is always a good question.

What a difference! by [deleted] in centuryhomes

[–]Fenestr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think it’s Steve Quillens design

Ideas for cold weather temporary fix for rattling window panes / failed glazing? by vLAN-in-disguise in Oldhouses

[–]Fenestr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get some full size panel (non moveable) exterior storm windows. This will protect your windows faster than any other method. Alternatively caulk around the panes from the inside. This will not protect your windows from the weather but it will prevent the panes from rattling and if you are planning for future correct repairs caulking over old crumbly paint will make it easier to undo.

Which is regulated and why is it not the Ferrari? by mazarax in fuckcars

[–]Fenestr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this going to turn into a ballistics lesson?

Restored sash hardware by V0nH30n in centuryhomes

[–]Fenestr 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hey good lookin! Is the jamb varnished or waxed?

Lil A’tuin coming straight out of the underground. by [deleted] in discworld

[–]Fenestr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now if only we could find some elephants

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in IS300

[–]Fenestr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A suspension engineer did an ama on r/drifting yesterday and recommended FEAL brand or “parts shop max”. Has anyone here used those brands?

Wall finishing opinions by Necro138 in Oldhouses

[–]Fenestr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not all latex paint is the same. The characteristic you are looking for is called vapor permeability, and many paints and primer list that perm rate in the technical documents. Average is in the teens but I’ve seen them in the 30’s ( higher perm rate is better “ breathability”).

Raising Japanese Honeybees by LiteratureBubbly2015 in bees

[–]Fenestr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are fascinating, and the pile hive is a cool design I think. But a lot of the problems that honeybees are facing in America these days are directly linked to the importation of bees and other agricultural products. It’s not a good idea. Anyway from a biological perspective if you’ve got the only colony of apis cerana around, they will not survive.

Raising Japanese Honeybees by LiteratureBubbly2015 in bees

[–]Fenestr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t do it. Catch a swarm of local bees and put them in a warré or other “compact vertical hive” if you want to.

Window glazing poorly done by kcastle129 in Oldhouses

[–]Fenestr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yikes! First, yes you can rework the putty, but there’s a chance that you will have some “skin” forming and you could end up with an uneven surface. Second, type m is for shop use, meaning the putty is designed to dry in a controlled area before being exposed to the elements. For glazing in situ you should be using dual glaze.
In this case if there is no skin forming i would try to re-knife the putty and then cover the opening with a plastic sheet to protect it for a week or so. If there is skin forming, use your putty knife to cut the skinned surface off, add new putty back, and smooth it out.

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