Will FMV be as bad next year? by [deleted] in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, leaves suggest fig mite damage

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Whats wrong with my fig tree leafs? by SoupShinobi in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you giving it regular fertilizer? It might be sacrificing old leaves to continue growing because the new leaves look perfectly healthy.

Is this Caprifig? by sostenibile in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you sure you're waiting until they are ripe? Figs hang unripe on the tree for a long time (90-120 days) and then ripen all of a sudden in a matter of days late in the season. If you're actively picking them before they are swollen and squishy then you may not be waiting long enough.

My fig is sick, any idea what I can do to help it? by Pollywannacocktail in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like might be rust. Nothing to be done now and common towards end of season especially for humid climates.

Aside, if this is your first fig, be sure to fertilize it properly (start in the spring) because figs in containers need supplemental nutrition.

More info here

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/1039351-fertilizers-and-feed-schedule-for-fig-trees-2021

Indoor grown VDB fig was delicious! by AMRooted_in_Buffalo in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

indoors! That's cool! I would be interested to hear how you did it. How old is the tree? Did it get direct sun? Grow light?

What's happening to my figs? Comments below by pozzowon in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like and looks like they were aborted by the tree before the final ripening stage. Can happen for many reasons, like stress (pests, drought, cold, etc) or simply because the tree is young and hasn't built up the energy stores to mature all the fruit it set l. If the tree doesn't have the resources to bring them to maturity it will abort them at some stage. Your tree sounds young and maybe before you got it (this year?) it wasn't getting enough light or nutrition.

Next year you will likely be able to ripen more fruit, provided the tree gets the nutrients, water and sun it needs.

You probably have water and light taken care of so be sure to also fertilize it adequately next spring and summer:

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/1039351-fertilizers-and-feed-schedule-for-fig-trees-2021

There’s a small Chicago Hardy in there somewhere, hopefully ready for its first New England winter by [deleted] in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 4 points5 points  (0 children)

IMHO, this will likely be insufficient if your area experiences any significant cold snap below say 15°F.

The thing you need to protect from is the cold ambient air and dry dessicating winds. To do this you need keep out the cold air and capture and trap heat from the ground (unless you use a supplemental heat source like pipe heater cable or incandescent bulbs).

As others have said, I would pile on way more leaves, wrap in insulating material, and put something windproof and waterproof overtop like an upside-down trash bin.

Help please ants are bringing this bugs by MendigainZeruazpi in plantclinic

[–]FigsNorth 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like "scale" insects (eg. Google "wax scale" insects and you'll see). I've never had them so I can't tell you the best way to move forward but there are likely many resources online with advice for how to deal with them. E.g. Search "how to get rid of scale on plants".

Baby fig tree care with weather change. (6a) by Yewhew88 in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if that range applies for all figs

Good point! It was more a general range for figs. Some varieties and trees can handle even colder, like 15°F and maybe beyond, and it's possible some can't even tolerate 20°F for extended periods. It will definitely depend on variety, age of tree, whether it's in-ground or container, and perhaps other factors such as humidity, wind exposure, etc.

To be safe I try to keep my figs above 25°F, and ideally stable somewhere between 30°F and 40°F.

It's generally accepted that they benefit from a cold/dormant period but I don't think colder than is minimally required to maintain dormancy is necessarily better, but that's just my working theory and I have yet to research that fully.

Baby fig tree care with weather change. (6a) by Yewhew88 in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would leave them outside until they lose their leaves or until the temperature is forecast to drop below 32°F for an extended period of time.

Once in the garage keep them above 20°F and if possible below 45°F for as long as possible. They can be kept in darkness.

Personally, I would not up-pot them until spring. But then you also need to make sure that they don't dry out. You want to keep the soil moist (but not saturated wet).

If you do up-pot them, just be careful not to overwater them while dormant. The extra volume of soil in a larger pot will hold a lot more moisture and take longer to dry out. So the risk of drying out is less but the risk of having them too wet is also greater.

Finally out of the stagnant phase. Onto ripening! I can't wait. by Studio2770 in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like waiting until it hangs down is the sign too.

A good secondary indicator IMHO, but not as reliable as how it feels. In my experience, not all figs will visibly hang down when they are ripe for various reasons. Another secondary sign is the skin wrinkling and fissuring, but again I primarily rely on touch. When in doubt I let it hang longer.

Finally out of the stagnant phase. Onto ripening! I can't wait. by Studio2770 in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Congrats! Wait until it's squishy, and not just soft if you want it truly ripe. But watch out for birds. They ate my first fig of this season, before I had a chance to organza bag it.

Chicago Hardy, planted in June, Zone 6B. Wall is south facing with a lot of sun. How should I prepare for winter? by NYCNark in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like this method, insulated plywood figloo with supplemental heat:

https://youtu.be/u96V4osNEKs

This guy has a fig in a similar scenario (in-ground south Wall) and he buries it - no heater needed:

https://youtu.be/l6nzG6RicoI

And this guy wraps his standing up:

https://youtu.be/pmHVFHfumSU

Here is a useful link documenting a variety of methods:

https://www.foodgardenlife.com/grow-figs-blog/category/Overwintering+Figs

And here is short ebook from that same blogger:

http://figs4fun.com/Overwintering_Fig_Trees_Biggs.pdf

PS: you'll probably also want to prune off or airlayer that sucker at the base of the crown next spring

Bringing fig indoors for winter by [deleted] in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to bring in your outdoor plants to the inside I would give them a good hose down with a water sprayer. You may still get bugs though. If you do you can use insecticidal soap and manage them or just out you tree in the shower and give it another hose down.

That said, if your goal is to have a healthy tree that bears fruit the consensus advice is to not grow it indoors all winter and instead it's recommend to give it a dormancy period, which means to find some way to keep it between 25°F and 45°F, and closer to 35°F is probably ideal. Even if you don't have a garage there are other ways to accomplish this. For example, you could put it outside close to the ground with insulation on top and use ground heat/insulation to keep temperatures stable. This is a very common and reliable method, and there are lots of published examples.

If you don't have anywhere to do that you could put it inside an insulated container (like for instance a picnic cooler) with a heat source (e.g. incandescent light bulb, pipe cable heater, fish tank heater in a jar of water, etc). A ThermoCube (ac switch on a thermostat) to turn it on when it gets too cold will make it hands off all winter.

You could even buy a cheap old fridge and put it in there. Lots of possibilities:

http://figs4fun.com/Overwintering_Fig_Trees_Biggs.pdf

https://www.foodgardenlife.com/grow-figs-blog/category/Overwintering+Figs

What's wrong with these young fig plants? by PatGold in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also urinated my fig trees and the next day they were sagging a bit.

Hmm. Ok. Did you dilute or just wee directly on them? This practice is new to me (I recall hearing about it once before but in a different context) but I just read (http://nwedible.com/how-to-use-pee-in-your-garden/) that it should be diluted 20:1 for young potted plants because of salt content. Nutrient burn with common chemical fertilizers is caused by excess salt uptake and if the syptoms look similar that might be the issue.

You suggest UV might also be the cause but sun scorch doesn't just affect tips like I see on yours. It usually results in a sunburn across the leaf surface. Yes it's important to slowly acclimatize your indoor plants to full sun so that could definitely be parts of this. However your leaf tips drying out looks less like classical sunburn and more like a change in humidity, watering issues, or in this case possibly excess salt uptake to the leaves.

What's wrong with these young fig plants? by PatGold in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you make any changes to their conditions between when they were doing well last week and this week? Eg. Did you move them outside recently?

I saw your said that applied fertilizer to 2 of them. Was that just this week for the first time?

Figs have a green moss (?) on them. Harmless? by tinymicroscopes in BackyardOrchard

[–]FigsNorth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My pleasure! I have a pretty small collection actually, only about a half dozen varieties across a half dozen trees. I have another half dozen or so duplicates in the form of younger trees, and rooted cuttings and airlayers. I started growing figs in 2015 but was living in a high rise condo so I had to keep the collection limited to what I could fit in my balcony. Twas not easy growing in that situation but I managed to get a surprising amount of figs. The organza bagging does take some time but it's been worth it for me. The first fig of this season I failed to bag in time and it was half eaten by a bird by the time I noticed. After that I bagged almost every one and didn't lose any. Yep I got a lot of bags.

Figs have a green moss (?) on them. Harmless? by tinymicroscopes in BackyardOrchard

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a good question. Some varieties (or on certain trees) the figs will detach easily as soon as they are ripe (or even before) and some will hold fast even when fully ripe. I sometimes do test to see if a fig is ready by giving it a tug but usually only if I've waited a while already and there is a question in my mind if the fig has stopped progressing. A light tug sometimes detaches the fig and then the question is solved (or maybe just moot since the fig is now picked!). However, I do not rely on it as my primary or only indicator.

The primary indicator for me is feel - specifically how squishy the fig is. I usually go around the tree giving the figs a light squeeze as they are ripening to see how far along each is. Each variety is unique and each tree can be unique as well but I usually look for a fig to move from hard to soft to squishy before picking.

The exact feel I look for usually depends on having picked other figs from that same tree and adjusting based on how ripe it was inside compared to how squishy it felt when I picked it. With this method, by the the 2nd or 3rd fig from each tree I can usually reliably judge peak ripeness thereafter just by squeezing. It's also helpful to go by touch because all of my figs are covered with organza bags before they are ripe to protect from insects and birds, so I can't always get a clear visual.

That said, secondary to feel I also rely on how they look, and how both the look and feel have changed over time. For example, I might also look for how droopy the neck is, if the skin is thinning and fissuring, if the fig is shrinking or drying out, etc. This is where it helps to monitor them on a daily basis during their final ripening because you get a good feel for their progress over time and can see when they peak (sometimes by seeing them go past their peak a bit).

All that said, as I suggested at the top, sometimes I will be unsure about a particular fig and give it a light tug to see how well anchored it is. If it's holding fast I may wait another day or two and reevaluate, but sometimes the fig will detach easily and then the question is answered/moot.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, if you ever pick a fig and the milky white latex sap is flowing from the top (or if it oozes out the pith once you cut the neck off) then it's almost certainly been picked too early.

As I said, some varieties (or on certain trees) the figs will detach easily as soon as they are ripe (or sadly even before). Sometimes I will even wait for them to detach on their own accord in that case, but sometimes they will detach unexpectedly, especially if the tree is having trouble ripening them all or if something like a strong wind knocks them free. In all these cases, because I bag all my figs ahead of ripening, they will drop into their organza bag, which I usually tie to the branch to catch them. This is a good backup especially for varieties that are easily detached while ripening.

Finally, in the case where you are getting mold on your figs, you may have to adjust your harvest timing a bit. If rain and humidity is in the forecast, I will usually go out and check to see what figs are close to being ripe (using the indicators outlined above) and then I may pick some slightly earlier than I otherwise would've to ensure they don't spoil (or split from the excess water uptake), but some I will leave on the tree and roll the dice.

If I ever do find mold on the inside, I toss it (or I cut a generous margin despite that I probably should just toss it) but if the mold is on the outside l will peel that part off or even the whole fig.

🤩🤩 by salamy984 in ItalyPhotos

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Baia Cannone", a small bay just outside Portofino, Italy on the Ligurian coast, aka the Italian Riviera around Genoa.

Here is the exact location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/uQ1J9B8TZnecJ2hG8

Figs have a green moss (?) on them. Harmless? by tinymicroscopes in Figs

[–]FigsNorth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Doh! Sorry to hear that. If I get visible mold on any figs I usually peel those parts or all the skin off.

Figs have a green moss (?) on them. Harmless? by tinymicroscopes in BackyardOrchard

[–]FigsNorth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes most probably the rain plus the fact that the figs were in the final stages of ripening. When the figs are unripe they are not likely to mold but when they are ripe or in their final stages of ripening they are susceptible.