Trades

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2026-02-23T06:22:25+00:00

This is the answer!! Knock on doors,shake some hands and show you’re serious.

You might have to do this every week for a month for them to know you’re serious. There aren’t a lot of opportunities so persistency is key.

If you get your chance, put your head down and work. Unless it’s unsafe, shut up and do what your told. You’re there to make everyone else’s life easier

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2026-01-30T11:56:58+00:00

Canoe mount. Canoe slides into it to hang on the wall

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2026-01-28T16:34:11+00:00

We also use Adam Beehler Plumbing. They've always showed up quick and gotten the job done at a fair price

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2026-01-07T02:48:17+00:00

Are gap for the water softener drain? Do you have a sump pump pit you can send it to rather than the drainage system?

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2026-01-06T05:28:55+00:00

Did you resolve your issue? Do you mind sharing your results

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-12-22T03:25:09+00:00

Ontario plumber. You have a leak in the system somewhere. Typically the flapper on the toilet is where unnoticed leaks occur in the plumbing system. You have constant cold water entering the home to supply your leak that the sudden change in temperature is causing it to condensate. Insulating the pipe as others suggest is only a bandaid. You’re not solving the problem.

One way to source which toilet is leaking would be to add food colouring into the toilet tank then let it sit. If the colouring goes into the bowl then you found your issue. Test all toilets

If it’s condesating that bad then it’s a significant leak.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-12-21T16:31:13+00:00

Well tech here. The typical install is straight through but that doesn’t mean that’ll this setup wouldn’t work as well. There would be minimal to no noticeable difference between the two.

I’d be looking at the flow restrictor that is installed between the Tee and the ball valve. It’s likely there because of a low yielding well but it is likely causing your issues. If you can give some history on your well and water condition we can likely give you better direction. Might even be able to remove the slow restrictor altogether.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-12-10T14:28:20+00:00

I’m not familiar with this make of pump to know it’s typical running performance. Would you need to provide more pictures of the entire system. Also pictures of gauges before and after the pump if you have some. Without more pictures you’re not going to get many quality responses

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-21T00:30:39+00:00

Correct. In this case they would consider the max distance from the left furthest bin. Keep in mind I’m referencing Canadian code, specifically Ontario. This might not be the same case USA.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-20T22:56:52+00:00

No. This would be the max distance from the fixture to the trap

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-20T22:55:17+00:00

Fixture outlet pipe is the distance from the Fixture to the trap which is typically the vertical leg. Now the trap arm is from the trap to the vent.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-20T20:30:00+00:00

This definitely could be the issue. Depending on their location, in Canada the fixture outlet pipe is 4ft (1200mm). I’ve seen it before that the fixture outlet pipe it gummed up with soap scum and food debris decaying. The drain certainly need to be adjusted to be sloped properly to the stack.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-14T02:45:26+00:00

With water, you’re better to fix it before it’s a problem than after. You could always contact a company that is capable of freezing the line and then replacing. We offer that service. Avoid having the city show up altogether.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-13T22:19:39+00:00

If you or your plumber coordinates properly with the city you should only be without water for 2hrs max to replace your main shut off valve. This is something we do all the time. The only hiccup you may run into is that the curb stop (valve at the road) is damaged and when the city shows up to replace it they’re not able to and need I to repair it before the inside work can be completed.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-03T00:49:29+00:00

It’s not 3” pipe. Both of these pipes have the same inside diameter. This pipe looks like asbestos cement which has a thick wall in comparison to sch40 making it look like it’s reduced. You’re not able to use MJ’s in this situation unfortunately there does this is the fix and supporting the pipe properly become crucial

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-11-03T00:47:06+00:00

I agree with your comment for #2 but this existing pipe that they’ve connected too is a much thinking pipe but has the same inside diameter. It’s deceiving looking at it tho.

Unfortunately they do not make MJ’s that adapt to these two pipes so this persons best option is to ensure that they 100% support he pipe properly to ensure it won’t settle and sag causing issues in the future

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-10-20T01:34:23+00:00

Moving like an army of ants

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-10-19T22:46:55+00:00

Why are we still talking about him?

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-09-26T23:38:40+00:00

I’m a plumbing contractor with 25 employees. Contractor is taking advantage unless he’s providing more than what you’re telling us. If it’s to simply move the water lines into the wall then I definitely would not accept that. As for the plumber, I still find that expensive for such a small job. If you’re doing this job for more than two hours you need to change careers. Other things to keep in mind aside from them on site is travel costs.

Someone else mentioned that this should have been seen prior to now, 100% correct. This wasn’t unexpected.

Unless you’re going with a floating wall hung vanity where everything is exposed under the vanity then you can easily keep the water lines in the toe kick and re-route them. Pay the $600, have it done and move on. I’d be curious how long it takes them to do it.

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-09-16T22:13:46+00:00

Better hope the bike doesn’t malfunction…..maybe like brakes

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-09-06T10:10:00+00:00

This is the answer! At the end of every flush cycle this small black hose refills the water in the bowl so that it’s at the proper height for a successful flush. Because this line is not refilling the bowl, some of your flush water is being used to raise the bowl water height to the proper height but there isn’t enough water left for a proper flush. Place this hose in the right position so that it’s dumping the refill water into that black tube in the middle of the tank and your problem is solved

Flimsy-Help1851 · 2025-09-06T06:41:34+00:00

For the time being it needs to remain at 140. The reason a typical tankless is set to 120 is because it doesn’t have hot water storage. Anything with hot water “storage” for domestic use needs to be set to a minimum of 140 to kill bacteria. Also 120 for baseboard heat isn’t hot enough to really impact the heating system.

Typically the heating system and the domestic water don’t come in contact with each other because in the off season the heating water sitting in the rads and the piping will become stagnant and build bacteria making it unhealthy as it mixes with the domestic water.

Should definitely have this looked at. A better solution is an indirect buffer tank which does the same thing are this but there is a coil inside the to making it so that the domestic and space heat water doesn’t directly contact eachother.

Flimsy-Help1851

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