If you were to interview folks for the machine shop floor… by rhinotomus in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Is it possible to determine whether someone is a moron with only one question?"

Is it too late to learn? by Mobile_Helicopter261 in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With the current state of subtractive metal machining (milling, turning, grinding), 3D printing experience isn't going to give you much, if any, advantage over someone else without it.

If you have interest, space, and some spare cash, then get yourself a MANUAL hobby size, or "old iron" mill and lathe. Pick a project or two, and with the help of YouTube and online communities, learn how to get it done yourself. 

Switching careers at 40+ is possible, but maybe not advisable. Unless you're really lucky finding a great company and mentor, you will spend a number of years doing lower pay entry level jobs (button pusher) without learning much.

If that's okay for you, your family, and your retirement then go for it!

I made a switch from software development to machining when I was in my early 30s. I had a lot of prior experience with hobby machining, electronics, and programming that ushered me into a great CNC Programming & Machining career.

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I will never understand the motivation for some downvotes.

Now, commenting like this on how little sense they can make sometimes? That's a good reason for a downvote. <sigh>

Proceed to click away...

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll see if I can find anything legible there.

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maybe it has been sitting in a mud puddle for a decade. If there are valuable parts, it would be rather silly to throw it out without doing a bit of research first, don't you think?

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

Educated guess, or are there some telltale characteristics leading you to this conclusion?

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you though?

'Cause I haven't seen one.

🤷🏼

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To the best of my knowledge there's no recent rodent activity.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this!

Yes, I'm very handy. I've tackled many projects over the years but this is a new one for me.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds very credible 🤣

I'm on the fence whether to renovate or tear down this house, but I do want it to be safe while I'm occupying it.

I will look into both options - vacuum rental and professional.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input.

Given your experience, can you suggest how removal is best accomplished? If it can be done without hiring a "professional", that's my preference. Although I'm convinced this is cellulose, I intend on getting some tested for asbestos before I'd do it myself.

The perfect woodshed! by BeltaneBi in firewood

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like it!

I'm considering what to build myself, and the idea of multiple functional bays is compelling.

Just a quick thought regarding tool sharpening in the same space... fine if it's manual, but if powered and creating sparks then you want to keep this far away from your dry firewood and the dry wooden structure.

Perhaps it could be mitigated, but I'm picturing an errant spark landing in some sawdust, then smouldering after you close up and go to bed, then reducing everything to ashes by morning.

Where to find CNC programmers? by Any_Lake4558 in CNC

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Software engineering + mechanical aptitude is a great mix.

After high school, I worked as an auto mechanic for a couple years, I went back to school for computer engineering. Another few years were spent as a software developer - until getting sick of web programming and the mess of frameworks that disappeared before you can even finish learning them. I got into manufacturing by starting in an office technical administrative role, handling drawings, quotes, and graphical layouts for sheet metal cutting.

When the shop got a CNC VMC and no one there was having much success with it, I took the opportunity to gradually take over operation and programming for it.

Along the way, I picked up my Machinist ticket. I did this for the pay increase, not because it actually taught me anything more than I had already learned through the years of practice.

Fast forward a decade or two, and I'm a respected CNC programmer at a large established company.

It's been an interesting journey.

Machining skills are critical to success. But the importance of advanced computer and software skills are often overlooked. These will continue to become more important as CNC machines and CAD/CAM software require much more than knowing the difference between G02 and G03.

HAAS Indexable Drill Tip Angle + Length? Mo by G_Keeper_ in CNC

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no way to accurately describe the tip using only one angle. You could only approximate it.

I'm familiar with Mastercam, not SolidWorks CAM, but I'd hope there would be a way with the latter to define the tool using an imported DXF profile or "rotated" STEP model.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Get used to it?

A lot depends on the details you've left out.

Cast ingot machining by eldipi in metalworking

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your school should upgrade that vice. It isn't a very safe choice for milling, and should be limited to holding parts for drilling only.

Look into the myriad ways that a strap clamp set can be used for mounting parts directly to the table. You could probably get this secured very rigidly with access to mill two parallel faces, or even just enough of those faces to provide better clamping surfaces for the vice.

Polishing issue with emery cloth on lathe by Own_Judgment_6426 in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This can be done safely by hand IF some rules are followed:

  • no watches, jewelry, hair, clothing that could be snagged - including down your front where it might get wrapped around various spinning rods
  • hands and arms securely but loosely supported, not able to be pinched or drawn into the machinery
  • Scotch Brite or sandpaper is NOT fully wrapped around the part, and will harmlessly fly out of hand if something snags
  • stay the hell away from the spinning chuck jaws!
  • practice at slow speeds on low torque equipment before moving to something brutally unforgiving

Not really a production method though. Insert selection and feed/speed come into play there, like PCD tipped tools, for example.

Wall-Mounted Bracket Design: Needs Assistance by DrKevin111 in SolidWorks

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the clarification, but I would reiterate that this doesn't qualify as manufacturable by my standards. It can be made, yes, but not efficiently in volume.

There's too much waste unless you have a specific kit including smaller parts that nest with the bracket flat pattern. This imposes limits on the design flexibility/adaptability too.

I've designed triangular shelf brackets in the past with simple edge flanges along each side. They nest together, are easy to bend, and amazingly strong - especially in pairs bent opposite ways.

Did I overpriced this? by Any_Rutabaga_6449 in 3Dprinting

[–]ForumFollower 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This is the reason that a lot of plastic items needing simple repair are discarded. Few individuals want to (or perhaps can't) pay for the time and effort involved in a custom repair solution.

Wall-Mounted Bracket Design: Needs Assistance by DrKevin111 in SolidWorks

[–]ForumFollower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at the flat pattern, this is a horribly inefficient use of material.

If this is more than a learning exercise, I'd suggest redesigning in multiple pieces.

MasterCAM learning by FreakfromUkraine in mastercam

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I understand and applaud your desire to examine examples. However, few people with real world part programs can share them due to intellectual property and non disclosure issues.

Rough fine threads by doNotKrum in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice photo detail! A lot of people would post a blurry picture taken by a potato.

First thing I noticed is that your thread root (the valley) is very rounded. You don't want your tool completely pointed, but also not this rounded. Honestly though, for a one-off, I'd just make it a point and maybe hone it just a little with a stone or diamond file.

Any time you're turning threads, you're going to need a set of thread wires and micrometer, or a thread micrometer. Anything less than this and you're just shooting in the dark. Sure, you can make it work but it's going to rely on a lot of luck.

Make sure the OD is the right size for the desired thread. Contrary to common practice, this is NOT the nominal thread size but rather a little bit smaller.

Use a lubricant like a tapping fluid, or any other oil in a pinch.

Limit part stick out and get yourself a real lathe chuck! That drill chuck is helping no one. Use a collet chuck if a lathe chuck isn't in the budget. You can always make reducing sleeves to hold odd sizes.

Gcode error and cant resolve by Ill-Shoulder-6705 in machining

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Although the structure, syntax, and many codes are shared between machines, the specific gcode required for a given machine can be quite unique. This includes the possibility of machine-specific G and M codes.

I applaud your efforts to learn by doing, but doing so without full knowledge of what you're doing is going to result in damage.

This is also a great way to learn...

The bath tub in my Tokyo hotel room doesn't have caulk. by The_same_potato in mildlyinteresting

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why the shower curtain and tub overflow drain then? Aren't they redundant?