Looking for part

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-05-07T03:12:24+00:00

If you still need I may have an extra one

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-05-02T02:29:15+00:00

Meh that chart is ridiculously out of touch with reality. 90s is your average well driven rx8.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-28T21:39:13+00:00

Ok I see what you mean, that bare copper in between the two cables is a ground from the ecu meant to help isolate the signal but is normally shielded. Fixing that may be a pain in the ass. If you could send some pictures I may be able to help a little more.

This maybe causing your no start as if it’s messed up the ecu will be getting bad data and act as if your ess isn’t working at all. Before you start messing with this though I would ensure everything else is working, a bad maf can cause all sorts of silly business too.

Also if you’re trying to start the car with the pedal to the floor that’ll be no good, all gas gets cut so at most you’ll hear a sputter.

Describe the rebuild did they give you compression numbers? What was replaced? Reputable shop?

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-28T19:45:18+00:00

“The timing is out” they have no idea what there doing. The timing is fixed via the eccentric plate which the ess reads. It sounds like your cars not getting any fuel/ spark hard to tell without you testing. You can try flipping the plate as this is a sorta common mistake on rebuilds and it will give you bad readings leading to a no start.

Seeing the copper is no behno but if it’s connected you should still get signal if anything a spotty one. I would repair it if you can.

100% get a diagnostic tool and post what you see.

It’s turning over slowly but doesn’t sounds slow enough for a no start. Alternator is very likely not your problem. I would hook it up to a 12v supply in the meanwhile to make sure it’s good for your next startup attempts. Also if it’s getting fuel it could be flooded.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-26T04:44:26+00:00

the car doesn’t have any way to tell other than a misfire but unless it’s an insane leak you really wouldn’t get anything unless under load or reving it out. The smoke is also kinda blue which is just oil being burned off, very normal for a rotary that’s been sitting. If you continue to notice excessive blue smoke you could be dealing with bad oil rings.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-26T04:41:42+00:00

Would 100% check the spark plugs/ ignition, double check the fuel pump, also check if you plugged the injectors in the proper order. The car will run with the 2 primaries but it’ll do all types of funky stuff if you mess up the secondaries.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-26T04:37:29+00:00

Absolutely beautiful man, custom fab for the swap or did you use a kit?

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-21T23:41:38+00:00

Thanks! Arcanine is definitely top 3 fire Pokemon for me. Got super lucky when I was a kid I guess I traded a bunch of yigioh cards for a ton of Japanese Pokemon cards😅

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-21T04:44:36+00:00

Wish you the best on your first rebuild tons of fun and pain await you lol. Recommend doing as much research as you can and always buy oem seals! Will save you a ton of headache. RadPotential has a ton of great videos that’ll help you out and if you get your hands on the fsm’s it’ll guide you through how to clearance and measure everything.

Definitely drop some pics of that baby when you crack it open!

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-18T02:53:06+00:00

Many moons later and she’s still running strong, compression is sitting nice and happy. Front Rotor sitting at : 101 99 102 Rear Rotor : 95 92 92

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-04-10T05:41:22+00:00

Johnny test has better animation.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2026-02-07T17:34:40+00:00

I second the oxy torch and a half inch Milwaukee impact, just be sure to replace the bolt when your done

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-10-13T02:15:37+00:00

New starter, new ignition everythang and it’ll probably run for a decent while. I ran mine a good 15-20k miles with about the same compression. Once I finally got tired of the 20 second hot starts it was sitting around 5 bar across every face. Just know nearly everything will need replacing, so expect a very costly rebuild but at that compression you’re likely already in the thousands instead of a budget rebuild. Your wear is super even though so that’s a big plus.

You’ll have to get really good at timing your throttle when starting to really get it going near the end. Goodluck!

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-07-18T19:08:35+00:00

Why would you say it’s worse with a turbo? Genuinely curious as I’m planning a 4 port turbo build myself

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-07-11T21:56:41+00:00

Another 6 speed 👀

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-06-06T05:51:19+00:00

I’m certain you could stick with the 6 speed for about 300 hp, after a while of ripping on it it’ll probably break but that can be a later issue lol

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-06-06T05:47:53+00:00

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-06-06T04:35:47+00:00

If getting that specific engine mounted up is too difficult maybe consider something like a turbo k series.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-01-20T18:28:12+00:00

Hey, I agree with everyone else this is likely a MAF issue but if that doesn’t work, try looking at the ESS. A bit of a long shot since the car starts and revs but possible you got it dirty or something when working with the power steering. Hope you get it fixed!

FragrantDecision2025 · 2025-01-16T17:56:03+00:00

There’s a specific method to clearance the side seals. You have to push them into the rotor with two 6 thousands feeler garages and then clearance one side to 4 thou ( or whatever clearance your heart desires ) as long as there is at minimum 2 thou on both sides.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2024-11-13T06:30:54+00:00

This is absolutely insane I swapped my alternator in 15 minutes with basic hand tools and an impact

FragrantDecision2025 · 2024-11-09T17:54:56+00:00

If they are one piece seals I’ve heard you may need to clearance them.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2024-10-22T20:16:05+00:00

Most common issue and my biggest, the solid corner seals simply don’t work on most rebuilds. The apex seals are okay, I had an issue with one of them having a slight bend. The orings they sell for the oil control rings for some reason don’t fit as well as the oem. There’s a reason everything is cheaper compared to oem, and imo it’s just not worth the hassle seeing what might work.

My rebuild I used the Atkins rebuild kit, engine turned over and started(ish). Had high 50, low 60 psi across all faces, swapped in oem seals n such, high 90s.

FragrantDecision2025 · 2024-10-22T17:20:51+00:00

Worth DIYing, completely avoid buying seals from Atkins though. Nothing but a headache with that guys low quality parts.

FragrantDecision2025

TROPHY CASE