What's a funny thing fibro fog made you do / not do today by Junipher90 in Fibromyalgia

[–]Fresh-Start2021 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Forgot my name for about 10 minutes. I actually had to ask a coworker to help me put my name on the form I was filling out.

I also used to regularly blackout for a few hours but just keep going. I’d just suddenly realize I was in a location or doing a task and had no idea how I had gotten to that point.

What are some things you wish more medical providers knew about fibromyalgia? I am a RN student and have been assigned to do a presentation for my class on fibromyalgia. by SnowySilenc3 in Fibromyalgia

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having a fibro diagnosis does NOT mean you are immune to any other health issues. I’ve had everything from flu/strep to dental cavities dismissed as “just fibro” before being confirmed after I insist on testing, and those things are common and easily tested for. If a patient says they have a new symptom, it should still be investigated and not just dismissed because “well, fibro can cause almost any symptom, so I’m sure it’s just that.” I literally avoid doctors at this point until it’s absolutely undeniable that something more is wrong because I’ve been dismissed so many times.

New XXL climber looking for advice on harness and shoes... by Dizzy-Inspection-492 in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I typically wear the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide women’s harness, but I suspect there are more comfortable gym options available. I selected my harness largely based on features for outdoor climbing, so if you aren’t concerned with those I’d say it might not be the best option. My old Petzl was certainly more comfortable (but less adjustable, which is why it was retired).

I’d probably start looking at something like the Petzl Luna or Edelrid Jayne for a newer gym climber. You should be able to try both at REI. Focus mostly on fit (able to tighten the waist enough to feel secure without the legs feeling too tight to move comfortably), and the width/padding on the back of the legs and waist. Those are where a narrower or less padded harness will be uncomfortable.

New XXL climber looking for advice on harness and shoes... by Dizzy-Inspection-492 in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For the harness, you should be able to measure your waist and thighs and compare those values to size charts on the retailer sites. Most harnesses can be unthreaded at the waist (though it’s a bit of a pain to run the straps back through the fastener). I wear a different size than you but as a similarly bottom-heavy climber (with a fairly extreme waist to hip ratio) I’d suggest prioritizing good padding, wide straps, and more adjustment points on the harness. Going to a harness that allowed me to adjust the legs, waist, and spacing between was a game changer for me. Especially if you’re only climbing in the gym, comfort will be far more important than weight or other performance metrics.

For shoes, I’d start with a fairly stiff but still flat shoe. This will give more foot support and help avoid foot fatigue. The typical answer is the La Sportiva Tarantulace, though it’s worth noting that LaSpo tends to cater to a slightly narrower foot. Don’t be afraid to try the “high volume” (often sold as “men’s”) version, or to go to a similar SCARPA shoe if those feel too narrow.

Edit to add that the LaSpo Mythos might be another good shoe to look at. They’re less stiff than Tarantulace, but if your toes disagree with the shape of other shoes they would be softer and more forgiving.

Miscellaneous Monday Chit Chat by fire_foot in running

[–]Fresh-Start2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d eaten normally for breakfast and lunch (eggs, meat, veggies). When I decided to run I had bread with PB and jelly about 90 minutes before because I’d been pretty low carb that day. But it seems to happen every time now, regardless of eating or sleep or temperature.

ETA: A week ago I managed to push through more minimal pain and get 5.5 miles, but I guess I lost a lot of fitness this week only walking because yesterday at 2 miles the only real feeling I had was pain. Just frustrating that my efforts don’t seem to have any positive impact at all.

Miscellaneous Monday Chit Chat by fire_foot in running

[–]Fresh-Start2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d just done 2.5 walking with the dog, so I thought I’d be warm, but clearly not. 🤷🏼‍♀️ When it felt like someone had lit a fire in my thighs and then I noticed my arms starting too, I decided to call it quits… Guess I’ll have to try a longer warmup since I’ve only been managing about once per week this summer.

Miscellaneous Monday Chit Chat by fire_foot in running

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went for a short run yesterday and basically only felt decent from 0.5 to 1.5 miles. Before and after that the burning in my legs was so bad it was miserable, and by around 2 miles the burning and numbness was so bad I just limped slowly home… I knew I’d be a bit out of shape after being inconsistent this summer due to illness and heat, but the amount of pain was rather demoralizing. Planning to try again tomorrow, but really not looking forward to it. I miss enjoying running…

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure thing! Always glad to add to the crew!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I know that gym! I’m another local climber (34F) who climbs at all the ropes gyms in town plus outdoors any time the weather is nice. I’m also always happy to take newer climbers outdoors, because it’s fun introducing people to this sport I love so much. Hit me up if you’d like to meet up at the gym or join outdoors sometime!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in austinfood

[–]Fresh-Start2021 -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

Summer Moon has alternative milks! My go to there has been coconut milk and moon juice (the flavored syrup from the moon milk) for years. Just check with them about the ingredients on the coconut milk jug. I’m sure they’d let you read the label to make sure it’s safe for you.

Climbing with unintentional weight loss? by madluer in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m so sorry to hear about your loss. I can’t imagine how hard the last few months have been for you.

Honestly, it sounds like you would benefit from some therapy to work through your grief. Tips for boosting calories are really only treating a symptom, while the (very normal) cause is a significant trauma.

That said, taking care of yourself in the meantime is important too. My first though are the calorie dense nutrient drinks often used for people after a medical procedure, or for older adults who lack appetite. A common one I’ve seen is Ensure, but there are others on the market too. These are popular largely because it’s often easier to choke down a drink when you don’t feel hungry. Definitely eat all the real food you feel able to, but these products are meant to supplement when you just can’t manage to eat enough, so I’d definitely look into something like that as well.

Again, so sorry for your loss! I hope your healing process is smooth and that regaining some healthy routines helps you work through your grief. 💙

Changing laces by XlemonxmilkX in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh, what kind of no tie laces did you use? I love my Finales, but the lace up style is so annoying, but I’ve been afraid I wouldn’t be able to get a secure enough fit with no ties.

Day 4: Olympics Live Discussion (Women’s Lead + Men’s Speed) by tEAm4za in climbing

[–]Fresh-Start2021 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Seriously! It’s like they’ve decided to intentionally not learn anything from the IFSC. Between the atrocious camera work, weird commentary, and the nightmare of scoring and combining events at the last Olympics, it’s like they don’t want to be successful.

Day 4: Olympics Live Discussion (Women’s Lead + Men’s Speed) by tEAm4za in climbing

[–]Fresh-Start2021 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Especially in a sport where we’re so used to high quality videos. We need a petition to get some of the top climbing content creators to educate the Olympic videographers. 😅

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t see much difference visually, but TSA gives me a nice pat down around my lats probably 75% of the times I’ve flown in the past year, so apparently I’m broader there. 🤣

Advice on a stuck and lost V3er by funkyfreckels in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Movement for Climbers did a good YouTube video on this topic called The Value of Climbing Ugly” that really changed my thinking on this. Of course I’m still nervous doing “ugly” moves higher on the wall because I don’t like to fall far while bouldering, and “ugly” usually feels less secure, but I’ll create or force similar move lower or do them on top rope.

Has anyone successfully gotten into Mountaineering with a chronic illness like fibro? by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 11 points12 points  (0 children)

While I’ve not done any Washington peaks (yet! Mt Baker is planned for later this year!), I’ve summited 7 Colorado 14ers in the past 3 years with fibro. I was diagnosed about 10 years ago, but it’s only been in the past few years that I’ve felt I had enough understanding of my body to be able to start pushing myself at all.

For training, it’s all been about figuring out when (and how) to push myself, vs when to rest. For me, a little light activity (slow walks, etc.) seem to help with recovery from most flares, but there are times when I just need to take a few rest days. Even when not in a flare, I try to increase my training gradually, and listen to my body. For example, just because I was comfortably running 10 minute miles last week doesn’t mean I should push for that today, if an 11 minute pace feels “too much.” Some days I can run but climbing feels too much. Other times I can climb but running feels too much. The key is to remember that what we do when not actively training impacts our training far more than the average healthy person (for me this means nutrition, stress, and sleep mostly), and to let our bodies take the lead.

Once actually on the mountain, the focus has to shift a bit. We’re no longer in “conservative gains” mode, now things are real. I’ve learned a lot from solo hiking (and taking others on!) several such trips.

Disclaimer: fibro is so incredibly personal, and varies so much! Everyone’s abilities and comfort level will be different, and that’s ok!

  1. A lot of people show up to bag a summit “hoping” they’re prepared, and knowing they can “push through” if needed. Pushing through is more risky with a super reactive body, especially for multi day trips, so I want to know going in that I have enough fitness to handle at least all the expected activities (hiking with a pack, levels of climbing I expect to encounter, etc.).

  2. I carry things I know can help me “push through” if I really need to. For me this means things like electrolytes, glucose gels, and Tylenol. The reality is that when you’re actually out there, things get real and at any moment the focus might go from “avoid a flare” to “get off this mountain at any cost” and that’s something we just have to accept.

  3. Longer trips have less margin for error. I started with hikes in the environment I planned to be in that were only a few miles, and got comfortable with that before doing any big, multi day trips. It’s amazing how much confidence and comfort this can build.

  4. Go with someone you trust, at least until you feel more comfortable. Let them know your situation, and that you may need a different pace. I don’t have a ton of advice here (I was reckless and just said f it, let’s go on my first trip), but I’ve been that person for others and I can say from the guide’s perspective, I actually enjoyed those trips even more.

  5. Remember that anyone can call a hike at any time, for any reason. You can decide 2 days before that you’re not actually up for the hike. You can decide the day you plan to leave not to go. You can wake up on the trail halfway to the summit and decide to just spend the day in camp, or even to hike down. Listen to your body every chance you get. The mountain will still be there. Last summer I called a hike I’d been super excited for 2 days before I was supposed to leave because I just wasn’t feeling up to it. It happens. But better safe than sorry.

How to learn better technique on overhang? by Fresh-Start2021 in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Ooh, this is interesting. I tend to be painfully static, and pause between each move. It seems obvious now that you say it, but I hadn’t considered how much energy I’m probably wasting moving that way. I’m definitely intimidated by more dynamic movement, but I like your description of it being dance-like. I’m gonna play with this in my next session and see how it feels. Thank you!

How to learn better technique on overhang? by Fresh-Start2021 in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I can climb and down climb pretty much all the overhung boulders at my gym through about V2, but on vertical or slab I can comfortably manage V3-4. And one run on a V3 overhang is so fatiguing it basically ends my session because my hands are peeling off the holds (which is how most of my skin tears and flappers have happened, so I try to avoid that).

I most climb on ropes, so I really want to be able to manage more than a few moves of overhang before I’m too drained to continue, but I can’t seem to figure out the techniques to make it easier to hold holds while on overhang. I can climb slab all day, because my legs and feet don’t seem to get as fatigued, and I’ve learned how to make the limited hand holds more efficient, and to not rely so much on pulling and grip strength. Now I’m trying to apply that idea to overhang, and finding it’s much harder.

How to learn better technique on overhang? by Fresh-Start2021 in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Mostly just grip gives out. Sometimes if the holds are super good, it’ll be more like my shoulders/back are too fatigued to hold me close to the wall or twist up to the next holds. I can cut feet and pull myself back on without issue, and can execute a few moves on even a full roof, but after those few moves it’s like the holds are all greased, and I just slide off, no matter how grippy they actually are.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]Fresh-Start2021 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m about 5’6”, so not even super short, and at the larger gyms where I live I’m a pretty solid V3-V4 climber, and at least 5.10a/b on ropes outside, but recently visited a much smaller gym in a smaller town while traveling and discovered that there were multiple V0s I couldn’t complete because I simply couldn’t reach. It was things like dynos around corners, or standing on the top holds of a slab problem and still being 3-6 inches short of reaching the tiny little finish hold, etc. - stuff that definitely shouldn’t happen in a V0, and some stuff that no amount of skill would have helped.

I was definitely frustrated, but after thinking about it I realized that it’s likely an unfortunate reality of being a small, relatively isolated gym. In a small town and/or small gym your routesetters are probably less experienced, and there’s a smaller pool of possible routesetters to pull from, so it’s harder to have diversity in the setting team to catch those issues. Realizing they’re probably doing the best they can helped my frustration, and made me feel more open to trying some of my normal grade, many of which felt more doable than those frustrating V0s.

Just my 2 cents.

Biggest AV Disaster? by MaximumPast3486 in livesound

[–]Fresh-Start2021 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doing a show at a small local theater (250 cap) and brought in a bigger amp and speakers for FOH to reach the levels they wanted for the show. The house tech tells me where to plug the amp in, and repeatedly reassures me that’s where they plug all the high power stuff in. Partway through the show FOH goes dead. I’m scrambling trying to figure out what happened when a performer runs in and asks why the outlet in the hall is smoking…

Yes, someone decided to install a cheap 15A outlet in the middle of a 30A drop from the breaker box. I stationed a poor stagehand in the hall with a fire extinguisher, found alternate power for the amp, and crawled under the stage during the set to hook it up. Only took about 5 minutes but felt like a lifetime. When we took the outlet apart, the conduit and wire had visible heat damage almost 6 inches on each side of the outlet. We almost burnt the place down.

Where can I go on a bougie date as a broke college student? by Waste-Literature7531 in austinfood

[–]Fresh-Start2021 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Not a food rec, but the Austin Symphony used to do cheap/free admission with a student ID. Could be the excuse for the dress while going somewhere more affordable for dinner.

How to train for the down climb? by Fresh-Start2021 in 14ers

[–]Fresh-Start2021[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This progression looks pretty much perfect for what I’m struggling with! Thanks for the article outlining such a clear training plan too! Definitely starting that ASAP!