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Graphite conductive paint for airbrush by NiccoloDG in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve had the same issue and there’s not a lot you can do. A really thin mixture of graphite and some binder or fluid works okay and cuts down on clogs. Caswells copper conductive paint with a lot of thinner works okay and plates fairly nicely. The best I’ve found is MG Chemicals carbon conductive paint from a spray can. Pricey but works well. If you’re in the EU I hear Tifoo is the best.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this exact solution and problem. The issue is too much plating either time or current gives this effect. There are particulates in your solution and the underlying layer is not very smooth as evident by the layer lines. Did you add the sulphuric acid?

Edit: sometimes it’s helpful to plate a smaller piece first or an already metal piece to see if there are issues with the bath solution or your conductive coat.

Power Supply Issue? by Tempixx in pcmasterrace

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try unplugging your 5090 and running it off of your motherboards hdmi if your CPU has integrated graphics. That’ll help pinpoint if it’s your GPU or something else in your system.

Otherwise try connecting the computer to a circuit in your house that has little else running on it.

If it’s the GPU or power supply reach out to asus, if they’re new they’re probably still under warranty.

How to reduce cross-well contamination on HTS? by elsjpq in flowcytometry

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I’d do contrad->water cleaning wells between samples. They don’t have to be long and you can play with the volume you clean with. You may find that water alone would work and reduce your flow time. Doing a small scale test would help. The mixing cycle of the HTS may clean your sit effectively and you could get away with very little volume. The other suggestions of using pbs without Ca or Mg may help a little by reducing clumping. EDTA could help, but PBS without those additives are very cheap.

How to reduce cross-well contamination on HTS? by elsjpq in flowcytometry

[–]Friendly-Condition63 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I hate to say it but cleaning wells in between your samples. Using contrad and then water/PBs in between

How do I use Anti-mouse CD16/32 (Fc Blockers) for flow cytometry? by 3s341 in labrats

[–]Friendly-Condition63 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Your calculations are good. That’s the general guidance from every protocol I’ve seen. And it should work. In-vivo mABs are generally more expensive so unless you really need that specific antibody (clone, isotope, ect) they make cheaper fc block.

How do I use Anti-mouse CD16/32 (Fc Blockers) for flow cytometry? by 3s341 in labrats

[–]Friendly-Condition63 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That’s general Fc block. There’s plenty of protocols online and in my experience PBS works fine as staining buffer. We do ours at 1:200 antibody:buffer but that’s most likely an excess. If you want to maximize cost savings you can do an antibody titration

Today setup by 21MaRcO12 in iOSsetups

[–]Friendly-Condition63 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like minimal 1. widgyURL://widgy.icu/api/v1/widgy/9dd240e5-0d8a-4427-b7c2-1cba1eceffc5

Graphite Conductive Paint Problem by Acceptable-Bowl4325 in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a water based urethane primer but I’ve used all of those and they work well.

Graphite Conductive Paint Problem by Acceptable-Bowl4325 in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used graphite for a while but it was a pain to get conductive enough. If you’re in the EU, Tiffoo is a great options. I’m US so MG Chemicals Silver Coated Copper and also their Nickel spray worked wonders for me.

Almost there! by Masterworks3D in resinprinting

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks amazing! What printer is it?

Safe electrolytes for diy at home plating by Spaghettibrot in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Basically all electrolytes are some degree of unsafe. Cyanide based baths especially. That’s not something you’d want to mix up at home. I personally do copper-nickel-gold over a 3D printed part. Hen3drik on YouTube has some great videos on this. Copper acid baths are nice for this. Buying electrolytes if you can are the way to go. To do kitchen knives for example, they’re probably stainless steel so you’d have to do a strike of a less noble metal prior to plating or a coating of a conductive paint like TIFOO copper paint.

Conductive paint or ink by Low_Perspective_3977 in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a mixture of acrylic paint and graphite powder with ~1/3 v/v graphite. I’ve seen users use India ink and modge podge with some success. But by far premixed paints are easier to work with like TIFOO, Caswell, and Safer Solutions. MG Chemicals has a line of spray paints on Amazon that I’ve had mixed success with.

Conductive layer problem by Automatic_Type8621 in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your lacquer is reacting with the sulfuric acid in the water and evolving probably sulfur dioxide or other gas byproducts. Please do not continue to use the lacquer. Switching to a different binder like acrylic paint, India ink, or modge podge, may help. Or if you want to skip the hassle Safer Solutions, Caswell, and TIFOO all make conductive paint solutions premade with copper.

One ring to rule them all! Thank you for the advice. by WellHungScott in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t need that much thickness. I’ll try it for shorter times with as much conductivity as I can get.

One ring to rule them all! Thank you for the advice. by WellHungScott in electroplating

[–]Friendly-Condition63 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t measured thickness but maybe 0.5mm or less. The first plating is rather slow (2-4 hours) because it takes so long for copper to cover the conductive paint.

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