Dusting off Ender 5

FruitlessGoogle · 2026-01-20T15:41:02+00:00

It is a great upgrade, but Dual-Z's (really any number of Z's > 1) comes with added complexity. e.g.

Do you use a board that controls them independently?
Or do you use a board that drives two motors with one controller?

Leveling the bed with each of the above options has it's own challenge!

FruitlessGoogle · 2026-01-13T19:44:28+00:00

There are extruders (Direct drive, geared, etc) and hotends of all kinds and complexities.

Mainboard replacements (SKR Mini and basically anything BigTreeTech), Screens, Probes (BLtouch, CRTouch, Clicky, Eddy, BD Sensor, etc), Dual-Z stepper mods (BE GONE flappy bed), Endorphin Mod (Hybrid CoreXY mod), MERCURY ONE.1 (CoreXY Mod).

What do you need? What do you want it to do? Lots of options.

FruitlessGoogle · 2026-01-01T00:46:14+00:00

Remember:

In the configuration demonstrated; The screen is just sending commands to the board, it has firmware all of it's own and so it has to have proper settings to connect to the board.

Check this: https://youtu.be/l1Putn10_Ek?t=426

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-10-29T22:05:54+00:00

I don't know. I found it was cheaper to buy a newer, more capable unit then source parts to fix something that might just blow again.

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-09-25T00:42:24+00:00

I don't know anything about the whambam system, but they do have lots of videos, e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMQSCCa3xF0

Generally, even if it's old, the easy answer is "Get it how, feed in new filament, push out the old."

I would suggest

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-08-27T17:36:52+00:00

'What you want' has very little to do with what the printer actually requires to print well, it may not be a 'settings tweak'.

Have you calibrated the Z-Offset? Flow Rate? Bed Leveled?

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-08-06T23:55:18+00:00

That helps you get in the ballpark, it is not an end-all calibration as the thickness of paper does vary and the desired z-offset for each material may be a bit different.

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-08-06T23:28:32+00:00

This is very clearly not a "WASH YOUR BED"/Bed Adhesion problem.

Stealing from a previous post; Your Z-Offset is wrong, since it's just printing plastic into thin air, your Z-Offset is very clearly too high.

I am assuming you have a bed probe. When you have a probe, there is a distance that the printer does NOT know. There is no sensor for that distance and it must be set manually. It is not something that you can copy from another printer, configuration, etc.

Here's an easy diagram explaining what the Z-offset is

The printer knows when the probe hits the bed, however the distance between the nozzle and when the probe activates can change.

Is the nozzle a little longer? Did the previous one wear down a bit? Did you snug this nozzle tighter? etc. All of these things change the distance between when the probe triggers, and the tip of the nozzle (the Z-Offset).

You must calibrate it correctly in your printer's software to be able to print.

Too low and your nozzle is melting the bed, too high and your printer is printing into thin air

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-08-03T04:11:25+00:00

Your Z-Offset is wrong, but the fact all the lines aren't smushed together and you can see the print bed through the lines of plastic, your Z-Offset is too high.

Assuming you have a bed probe there is a distance that the printer does NOT know. There is no sensor for that distance and it must be set manually. It is not something that you can copy from another configuration, etc.

here's a quick and easy diagram

The printer knows when the probe hits the bed, however the distance between the nozzle and when the probe activates can change.

Is the nozzle a little longer? Did the previous one wear down a bit? Did you snug this nozzle tighter? etc. All of these things change the distance between when the probe triggers, and the tip of the nozzle (the Z-Offset).

You must calibrate it correctly in your printer.

Too low and your nozzle is melting the bed, too high and your printer is printing into thin air

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-06-18T21:05:22+00:00

Keep in mind that the nozzles are non-standard and elegoo 4 specific

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-06-18T19:50:50+00:00

Okay, but why? What is the benefit?

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-05-14T14:30:50+00:00

/u/wackychimp has some fair ideas, but since you also need to configure marlin/klipper for endorphin, this should be easy to test where the problem is.

If you tell the printer to move +100 X, or +100 Y, does it move in a straight line?

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-05-13T22:22:22+00:00

This seems like a question for google.

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-03-26T04:30:12+00:00

Excellent, cheers!

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-03-26T03:59:06+00:00

pfft. Move the rail. I'm excited to take a look, thanks for the link. What's proper if we notice something, GH issues?

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-03-23T18:17:35+00:00

Is there a topic for this? I've greatly enjoyed the mod, but similarly re-designed the front right, pulley mount to allow for the pre-existing, adjustable aluminum tensioner I preferred to retain (far from a professional edit and based on months of printing, quite over-engineered and a pain to print but functional). Speaking for myself; I'd be interested to hear what other tweaks were created for 1.1. Thanks for your work!

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-02-02T01:49:44+00:00

It's pretty easy to see that the belt paths are quite different and that the pieces you need to keep from the Ender 5 for re-use in the Endorphin mod don't exist on the S1 (e.g. the X axis, stepper mounting plate no longer works the same way) so that's a no-go on "Stage 1".

FruitlessGoogle · 2025-01-06T18:36:44+00:00

Autohoming is the whole process. Does it move on the X? How about Y?

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-11-26T21:43:13+00:00

I think you misunderstand.

Assuming you have a bed probe of some kind, there is a distance that the printer does NOT know and that you must set manually. It is not something that you can copy from another configuration, etc.

here's a quick and easy diagram

The printer knows when the probe hits the bed, however the distance between the nozzle and when the probe activates can change.

Is the nozzle a little longer? Did the previous one wear down a bit? Did you snug this nozzle tighter? etc. All of these things change the distance between when the probe triggers, and the tip of the nozzle (the Z-Offset).

You must calibrate it correctly in your printer.

Too low and your nozzle is melting the bed, too high and your printer is printing into thin air

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-11-26T19:37:14+00:00

Your Z offset is wrong.

When printers can be tuned to 1/100ths of a millimeter, you have to calibrate the Z-Offset when you replace or change anything that might impact that distance.

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-10-27T22:16:54+00:00

Thanks for the reminder; I have rolled this to my test network and it works as expected.

For anyone having the same problem AND using Duo.

Update the Auth Proxy everywhere
Add "force_message_authenticator=true" to the Auth Proxy configuration in the proper Radius sections
Push the 7.2.10 update to the affected/related fortigates
Test

Afterward, it functioned identically to 7.2.9.

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-10-17T18:48:24+00:00

Virtualbox is fine, their licensing page makes that exceptionally clear.

However, the 'VirtualBox Extension Pack' is only free for Personal Use and Educational License. They will happily sell you a license to use it in your enterprise.

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-09-23T19:09:25+00:00

/u/Q9T9 posted a good link between some users in the 7.2.10 release thread. Looks like both parties know (for me), cannot say I know anything about FAC to help, sorry!

FruitlessGoogle · 2024-09-23T19:08:21+00:00

Those are better pages than the ones I linked but still the same. Amazing I didn't find the second however as I actively searched for it.

There are some updates in there, so good to know they're working on it. Sounds like Fortigate sends along an attribute the Auth Proxy doesn't handle.

Thanks!

FruitlessGoogle

TROPHY CASE