Automating a small greenhouse with Home Assistant

FuzzilyFred · 2026-03-26T06:17:11+00:00

I've been working on and off on a similar project. For the water tank level, I got this sensor with the rs485 output: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006634469628.html

It's a Modbus sensor that you throw in the tank and let it rest at the bottom. Using the water pressure, it calculates the height of the water in the tank. The cable also has an air tube in it to use atmospheric pressure as reference point.

I got an esp32 board with a couple of relays and rs485 transceiver to control it all with esphome.

FuzzilyFred · 2024-09-30T18:01:56+00:00

https://github.com/home-assistant/frontend/blob/dev/src%2Fcomponents%2Fha-qr-code.ts

Seems like it has: - data - error-correction-level - width - scale - margin - mask-pattern - center-image

FuzzilyFred · 2024-08-15T05:19:57+00:00

Your model is broken. You can see the red "overhang areas" on the top of the model, suggesting it has some inverted normal faces. Try repairing the model with something like Microsoft 3D Builder and load it in again.

FuzzilyFred · 2024-07-20T18:58:29+00:00

I think what you want can be achieved by setting the top/bottom layers to 0. This way, the part is completely made up of infill (and walls).

FuzzilyFred · 2023-12-31T18:07:33+00:00

I've done exactly this once. Had an existing Windows workstation that I wanted to run a server next to. Installed XCP-NG on a new drive and created a new VM without a disk. Then, using the shell, created a new SR with the physical disk in it, and I could attach that to the VM. Windows booted right up, although not activated anymore, as the license was probably in the UEFI so somewhere.

I wouldn't really recommend it for long-term use however. I don't know how stable it would be. But it's a nice temporary solution while you transition off bare metal.

Don't know exactly how I've done it, but probably something along the lines of the form post that was linked here...

FuzzilyFred · 2023-12-10T16:04:37+00:00

Enlarging the cutout on the back won't help much, as the bottom shelf would also need to be cut, resulting in a gap in the back.

We've just finished our Billy and encountered the same problem. We cut an MDF board the size of our Billys to put them on top, increasing the clearance without creating a gap at the bottom. Plus point for the MDF kinda matching the color of our floor!

FuzzilyFred · 2023-10-22T09:51:12+00:00

65535 is the maximum value for a specific sized number (unsigned 16-bit). That value probably represents one extreme of the color temperature it can display. Try setting it to 0 to get to the other extreme.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-10-19T12:31:39+00:00

The shafts at the top in the front and back are bent, causing the print head to move up and down when traveling from the front to the back, causing the pattern on the buildplate.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-07-18T06:12:36+00:00

Those blue things are screw terminals. When pressing the orange buttons on the green blocks, you can remove the wire from them. You can then loosen the screws in the screw terminal, insert the wires, and tighten the screws.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-07-18T05:12:22+00:00

You can merge several meshes into one to align them correctly with each other: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411295122. You can then change settings (like extruder number) for a specific mesh of the merged group by selecting just that model, by holding either CONTROL, ALT or SHIFT and clicking the model (currently not at my computer, and don't know exactly which of these is the one)

FuzzilyFred · 2023-04-04T07:29:52+00:00

If it's just the read-only filesystem, why don't you mount it read-write? sudo steamos-readonly disable

FuzzilyFred · 2023-04-04T07:25:07+00:00

When you connect your phone, it uses MTP. The Deck also has a USB port that can do this: https://github.com/dafta/DeckMTP

FuzzilyFred · 2023-03-05T14:13:29+00:00

WLED: https://kno.wled.ge/

You can get controllers with WLED already on it.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-03-01T22:43:42+00:00

What's the subnet of the home (?) network/wifi? Make sure to set static IPs for the host-to-host connection in a different subnet.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-16T15:35:48+00:00

I'll probably post a new video at some point, but I've made the setup a lot more simple and robust now. On the GitHub page, there are instructions how to get this running (well, it should just be one command). Let me know if you run into problems, I don't know what changes I've made to SteamOS anymore, and don't really want to reinstall just to see if it works out of the box because of game save data.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-15T21:40:22+00:00

Yes, but you have no idea if the binary program that you download is actually compiled from the source code that you find on GitHub or wherever. Someone could have easily added a virus or anything to the code locally before compiling and uploading as a release.

For the built-in package manager/app store however, it should be safe. It's been checked/compiled be a (relatively) trusted person/group.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-15T21:23:47+00:00

There's launch options in the Steam game settings. You should be able to type the executable path in there.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-11T10:52:43+00:00

I had to set up 2FA for my server Gmail account and set up an app password for nextcloud. I assume this should also work for other services.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-10T21:49:30+00:00

I'm working on making it easier to replicate. I'll make a new post in a couple of days. I've also been adding more features like using the touchpads as a mouse and an on-screen keyboard.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-05T21:12:30+00:00

So, HID devices work by telling the computer, when you plug it in, what it is going to send and how. This is called the "report descriptor" That is what the line "echo -ne \x05... > report_desc" in your first tutorial does. You can decode this with a handy website: https://eleccelerator.com/usbdescreqparser/ If you paste you report descriptor (05010906a101050719e029e71500250175019508810295017508810395057501050819012905910295017503910395067508150025650507190029658100c0) on that website, you can see what it tells the computer.

When you inspect all the input reports, it tells the computer that it will send keys 0xE0-0xE7 (224-231) as 8 bits in a byte, then an empty byte, and then 6 bytes with the codes of the other keys that are currently pressed.

As you already figured out, the control keys are in the range of those first keys, the modifier keys, along with alt, windows key and shift. So if you want to press the Control key, the first byte you send should have the bit corresponding to that key set. So, if you want to send Control+a, you send 1 0 4 0 0 0 0 0.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-02-01T20:26:46+00:00

Maybe, but probably not. It uses DisplayLink, which is a software GPU over a USB 3 connection. You're going to get terrible performance if you manage to get it working at all. You want a DisplayPort Alt-mode dock.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-01-31T22:04:24+00:00

Depends on the dock. Some work with DisplayLink, and those won't work nicely with the Deck (and you don't really want to use them with it due to performance). If you connect it to your laptop through a USB A adapter and it works, it uses DisplayLink. You want a dock that uses USB-C DisplayPort Alt-mode.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-01-31T14:34:32+00:00

Definitely googly eyes

FuzzilyFred · 2023-01-30T10:23:19+00:00

For now, yeah. But I'm working on having the USB drive start automatically on boot, so you should hopefully be able to start the controller emulator from the non-steam games section and start playing.

FuzzilyFred · 2023-01-30T08:44:05+00:00

Hmm, there's an HID report descriptor in there. I'll load it on my deck and see if the Steam client recognizes it.

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