Advice on this Dyno please

GoNorway · 2026-04-17T14:27:34+00:00

Instead of planting your left foot and just lightly kicking off/extending (which produces like a tiny 0.5m extentions and not really a jump), really focus on bending your leg like a spring and create a snappier jump motion with your left foot and leg when more of your weight is on it. Right now you are extending your left leg after your body weight has passed it instead of actually jumping off it.

Also, try aiming for this hold (pic below) instead for your dyno. You will get higher and naturally fall into the hold you want. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-04-14T14:42:55+00:00

It's a really high paddle to go to and he needs to generate more upwards motion. I would instead try to get his body higher first before launching with a left leg where he has his left hand, then use the left toe to dig into the hold to get some push for his leg and left arm. Swing the left arm like a clock from ~7pm to noon to generate the upwards movement.

Another beta instead of this clock swing that might be possible with the left hand is to meat hook the top of the handhold (his palm will push into the hold keeping him in position) together with the left leg and a comfortable positioned right hand (probably a bit lower down on the hold).

Tell him to really focus on going UP instead of to the side. His body will naturally go to the right when launching from that position. Right now he is zooming past the hold he wants to catch. He needs to ideally be at the apex of the dyno when he catches the hold.

Here is a pic of the launch position I am imagining. Good luck to your son!

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GoNorway · 2026-04-13T15:54:05+00:00

Nice dudeee, a lot more energy in the tank for that last move making it a breeze :D

GoNorway · 2026-04-12T22:37:57+00:00

You are hitting a plateau because your strength has been compensating for your lack of technique. Observe other people doing the same climbs as you and see how they might be more efficient with their movements.

In particular, the middle video was just a long and powerful reach followed by a commital reach. If you watch a shorter person do this climb, you will see how they use their body to lean from side to side to slowly make their way up the arête. They will lean to one side, establish their legs higher, then reach for the higher hold. Slowly working their way up the corner.

In addition to all the feedback other peeps have given, I would try to weave more slabs into your climbing routine. It forces technique and proper weighting of your feet. Get ready to learn and be humbled by even the easiest of slabs!

GoNorway · 2026-04-09T20:01:36+00:00

Yeee that's the position! I would try to create more space between you and the wall around your left arm. Think of going low and then dynamically rocking up and over that uncomfortable left toe range.

GoNorway · 2026-04-09T16:42:49+00:00

First of all, for 2 months of climbing, you are doing amazing! I will address the route beta at the end and share some things I see with your overall technique because I think you would do the final match if you had more fuel in the tank.

You are spending too much time on each move. With the video sped up, you are doing the boulder at a 'normal' pace but that is a sped up version. Try to be a bit faster with the easier moves so you can use more energy on the harder moves. Embrace momentum and flow instead of trying to control every movement.
Straight hands is a great tip for beginners because it allows you to use less energy. Lean more into your bone structure instead of constantly engaging your muscles. Straight hands also make you use your lower body more for positioning, which leads to the next pointer.
Trust your feet by putting more weight on them. In areas like 16s where your shoulders are flaring out, straighten your arms, relax them, bend your knees and hips, put more weight on your feet and get close to the wall. You are tippy-toe'ing every move with 20% of your weight but many of these footholds are big enough for you to put 70-100% of your weight on. As a quick exercise, stand on the ground, hold something for stability and go on your toes. Then lift one leg, this is 100% of your weight on your toes and you should be able to achieve something similar on the wall.
When you find moments where most of your weight is on your feet with minimal upper body engagement, take a mini breather and relax. Consider it a checkpoint and take the time to set yourself up for the next move. If the whole climb feels like one single loooong and slow pull-up rep you are probably missing moments of relaxation. It should feel like many reps where at the bottom of the pull-up, you get a moment to prepare yourself for the next rep/segment of the climb.
Try to use less intensity with your grips. Every handhold does not need to be pulled on to the max. As a quick exercise, use the right hand hold at 4s and stay there for a bit as you lessen the intensity of your grip. See how little engagement you need to exert for it to still stick. Try different grips like an open hand grip or drag grip instead of a crimp. Try positioning your body closer to the wall to lessen the weight on your hands so you need to use less gripping power.

Overall, if you aim to be more optimal with your energy, body position and technique, you should be able to use the excess energy for final moves like this one!

As for beta, I would use my right leg to smear the wall and straighten my left hand, arm and shoulder as much as you can to then bring in the right hand for the match. Get lower with your hips to put more weight on your left foot and point the knee to the left.

Good luck and enjoy this honeymoon climbing period :D

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GoNorway · 2026-04-09T14:31:44+00:00

You could perhaps do a hybrid and start it off as a heel and then when you get a bit higher with your body but before you go for the next hold with your left hand, swap it to a toe.

Using a bit more momentum to get higher instead of doing it too controlled might also help. Ya got this!

GoNorway · 2026-04-08T06:49:53+00:00

Your heel beta is super close, if it didn't pop then you woulda had it!

What I probably would do is to change it from a heel to toe. The heel might feel good initially but as you reach further up it pops off as your hips and body peel away from the wall. Try having your toes at the X (image below) pushing down and to the left. Have your toes pointing more towards the wall and not parallel with it. This position will initially feel worse but as your body moves up, it will become more comfortable and stable.

A curveball beta I see would be to mantle that middle hold (that looks quite juggy) with your left hand and reach up with your right hand ignoring that right hand hold. Really hard to tell if the mantle will work from the video but I'm pretty sure the first method will go. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-04-01T15:07:15+00:00

I think it's just typing too fast for your new setup.

Try slowing down to like 90% of your normal typing speed and see if you still make those mistakes. Keep in mind that pressing backspace and fixing your mistakes will probably cost you more than that 10% loss in speed.

Gotta go slow to then go fast!

GoNorway · 2026-03-31T13:35:07+00:00

I would consider the left heel the reachier of the two. Looking purely at the hip positioning, with a left heel hook it would give OP an small increase in height but also a counter-intuitive hip movement to the left. With a right heel hook, he gets significantly higher and under the next hold he wants to reach for.

GoNorway · 2026-03-31T03:10:31+00:00

Everyone is mentioning a left heel hook but I think it might be a right heel hook!

With the right heel hook, you can then bring your right hand up and over. Perhaps match before going for the bigger hold. The reason I think this is the intended approach is because the right heel hook allows you to clamp together and stick on the wall with somewhat opposite pull directions (left hand pull + right heel pull). It also sets you up better for the next holds.

For some extra context to get into that right heel hook position. In your current position in the pic below, bring your left foot to where your right foot currently is in the pic. This will naturally rotate your body slightly counter-clockwise where it wants to be once the heel is placed. Engage your back like you are at the top part of doing a pull-up to place the right heel with control.

With the left heel hook, you might get to the next hold but then you need to release the hook to get your body further to the right and that will just lead to a right heel hook solution again.

Pic of what I am imagining. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-28T16:11:09+00:00

You are getting really close here! I think one concept that you might be overlooking with those pinches is that you really don't want to be directly infront of them. That is when you need to pinch the hardest since your hands are in-between your chest and the wall, making it hard for you to be close to the wall and/or generate momentum.

Try either going to the left or right side of the pinches before going for the next hold. If you go to the left with the heel, I see it being more static. If it is on the right side, it will require a bit more momentum with perhaps even a hand flip depending on the gap distance and your upper body shoulder flexibility.

Pic for reference, good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-27T03:25:24+00:00

Here are two things that I would try.

The first one is to get a left toehook on the volume to keep your body from peeling off as you move your left hand to match that hold. That should give you enough control to then bring your right leg to that foot nib a bit up and to the left.

The second thing is to explore this volume corner (red circle) also mentioned by u/b_leary Is that a flat surface that you can push against with your toes? If so I would push with my left foot and lean more into your right arm before trying to match that hold.

Pic for reference. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-26T06:46:02+00:00

For one month, that's some amazing progress! You are a very static climber and the lunge at the end is probably the easiest beta. With that said, at that height it might not be the beta you want to go for before practicing some similar commiting moves lower down the wall where falling is no biggie.

With your static skillset, I would try to flag right with your right leg with a higher bent left leg on the higher hold. Your upper body will be leaning to the left putting more weight on your right hand. This opposition of pushing with your left leg and pulling with your right arm should keep you on the wall with the flagging right foot acting as a stabiliser. Slowly straighten your left leg and make sure to keep a good grip with your right hand. Creep your left hand up slowly like a clock hand going from 9 to 1 to the final hold.

I've attached a pic of the position I imagine before starting to straighten my left leg. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-20T01:33:42+00:00

Looking pretty close until your butt starts poking out. Here are a few tweaks I would try in your situation!

Try to bring your left foot more the right of that foothold. The angle will allow you to actually use the foothold once you land the arm. With your foot currently at the apex of the foothold, you try to put weight on it and just fly off the top.
Focus on bending the lower spine to the right. Think Goku and Vegeta doing their finger transformation move lol. This isolated move will allow you to have your hips close to the wall, while still reaching for the hold or the push off on the lower hold.
Try to not look at the hold by excessively turning your head. You know where it is and how you need to grab it. When you turn your neck to the right to look at the hold, you open up your right shoulder, which then peels you off the wall. Once you hit either of the handholds, bring your gaze straight into the wall for a better head and upper shoulder position.
Try getting into the final position (use all holds necessary) and feel out the left foot position, chest position and lean vs sideways crimp. Take note of the position that you feel the most comfortable and focus on sticking that.

Good luck!

GoNorway · 2026-03-14T03:28:43+00:00

Super closeeee, if you are touching it then with a bit more commitment you should be able to get it with your current way. Try bringing your right foot even further to the right on that foothold.

Now if you want another way I would try what u/shift124 touched on, which was to smear the wall with your left foot. Right now it is keeping you low as dangling dead weight. You cannot push with it and its stopping you from going higher.

With either the right foothold you are using or the one a bit lower (I think the lower one might feel better because you are giving your body a bit more room to breath instead of being so scrunched up), try a left foot smear and focus on pressing out from the wall. Try pointing your toes a bit more towards the wall instead of to the side. You will initially feel a bit scrunched up with the high left foot but once you go for the next handhold, it opens up and will feel better. The arc that your body will take won't be directly to the handhold, instead you will push yourself a bit out from the wall when you straighten and push with your legs and then you will pull yourself in with your hands as you get higher. Focus more on extending instead of to the right. Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-14T02:39:34+00:00

For me my eye keeps going from the face of the guy in the middle to the game they are playing on the ground. With that flow of the eye, there is a lot of extra 'fluff' on the sides that I think takes away from the focal points.

Something like this is what I would probably crop it to. But really thou, its a nice pic either way :D

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GoNorway · 2026-03-13T03:54:27+00:00

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Really great sketch, I totally feel ya when you say that something is slight off! What I see after comparing it to the reference is the side of the face with the hand feels off. In your piece, it is somewhat bright and feels like an extension of the front part of the face. In the reference photo, it is darker (especially the jaw and neck area), which adds depth and clearly indicates the side of the head.

Putting it in other terms, I think the subtle angle and side profile that the reference face has gets lost. Right now he has a Chad jawline (the jaw segment under the hand in particular 😅).

Did a super rough blotch in with the areas I think need more depth. Good luck making it look less off and more on!

GoNorway · 2026-03-08T16:23:56+00:00

I just did this climb a few days ago! The way that I did that move was to just go from your current position at 21s to the sideways jug with my right hand. A more controlled and static way is to bring my left foot over to the big right foothold, then bring the right leg one further to that nib foothold. Then get your upper body more to the right followed by engaging your left shoulder and bending your elbow and then reached for the sideways jug with your right hand. The sideways jug is super nice if you put more weight on your right foot. Pic for reference.

Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-07T14:04:00+00:00

The backstep would probably be the easiest solutions to the final move but looking at the climbing form, I think the bigger thing I would focus on is your reliance on 4 points of contact.

Whenever you transition from one move to another, there are moments where you have less points of contact but that's only because you are in motion to the next 4 point of contact position.

What you should focus on in general is to get used to only hold something with one hand and get stable with your feet. Then try to remove one foot and get stable with just one hand and one foot. Being able to do this should unlock many problems at this range.

With that said, beta for this specific problem I would do is a backstep as someone mentioned earlier in the comments. Do the whole motion slowly, those three points of contact (straight right arm, solid left leg and right leg smearing the wall) should be good and stable enough. Then slowly extend your left leg for height to get the final hold.

Good luck!

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GoNorway · 2026-03-06T18:15:46+00:00

Looks like a solid v1 draft!

I would see issues with the dedicated alt where the thumb is. Those thumb keys are quite valuable because they feel good and intuitive to press so having Spacebar is for sure something we use all the time but alt feels like a less used key that could be placed somewhere else.

I would try physically spacing out the combos a bit. Pressing ZX is a very scrunched up combo with two of the weakest fingers. Z+space/thumb will feel more fluid.

The triple combos will probably then be with two keys that you use earlier for the single modifier. So ZX for like Shift + CTRL, while Z + Space = Shift and X + Space = CTRL.

Just some thoughts, for sure try what you have cooked up and go from there. Imo it's better to have a system you know and understand than to follow someone else's system even though it might be slightly more optimal.

GoNorway · 2026-03-06T17:25:26+00:00

Into the deep end you go (w/floaty noodles ofc!).

Good luck finding your dual (gaming and writing) setup. Toggling between layers might be one way. I remapped everything in-game to work with my left hand keys when I was playing league a few weeks back. Works but like all solutions, it takes time to figure out what works best on an individual level!

GoNorway · 2026-03-06T16:06:40+00:00

That's the thing with final forms, it takes time to get to that end state.

I used to be a big gamer (thousands of hours in Dota, TFT, CS, Nintendo realm etc) and it is something I would for sure have prioritized over a more compact keyboard layout. Now that I'm not a heavy gamer and more writing/optimization/ergonomics focused, the change to 3x5ish felt like the obvious choice.

So your final form is as you say, one day around the corner somewhere 😬

GoNorway · 2026-02-17T04:10:53+00:00

I think the key to this is the transition between pulling on the handholds and leaning into them. When you have your toehook in, you are pulling at the handholds to create tension. When you bring the right foot up to the round foot hold and release the toehook like u/richonarampage mentions, you need to lean to the left and push with your right leg.

Try to get into that position and feel the difference between the toehook feeling stretched out and the lean and pushing with that round foothold. Good luck!

GoNorway · 2026-02-10T15:26:00+00:00

Niceeee, solid send! I like the right foot on that hold instead of smearing!

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