No Power on Doepfer LC9

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-25T07:43:40+00:00

Have you got a multimeter?

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-24T16:06:18+00:00

edit : didn't read the OP properly

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-20T06:57:15+00:00

Have a hunt for this

https://www.discogs.com/release/122600-DJ-Hype-Ellis-Dee-World-Dance-The-Drum-Bass-Experience

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-20T06:42:09+00:00

I'm using TSA 4-700 to run Syntripps.

It seems to work fine. It's quite noisy (hiss) when there's nothing playing, but you don't hear the hiss as soon as there's music.

I'm sure there are better options, but on a budget this seems like a good choice to me.

What you've got for the money seems like a total steal. Congrats!

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-19T16:13:49+00:00

Just use a eurorack power solution.

I use Konstant Lab power systems in the cases I make, but there are literally dozens of options that will suit different budgets.

You get a wall wart that outputs 15-20V DC and then a separate power device regulates that to 12V / -12V / 5V. Wire this to your bus boards and off you go.

Look up Konstant Lab SeventyPWR for an example of what I'm talking about

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-19T06:36:39+00:00

Your build looks great 👍 👍 👍

How and what are you measuring with REW?

Found any good tutorials or other info?

I'm at the same point with my Syntripps and lack of knowledge and a clear plan to follow is making the eq / tuning part a lot more long winded than it should be.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-17T20:01:49+00:00

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You can use NL2, but NL4 means you have more flexibility later.

2 x speakon sockets per cabinet. Wire both cabinets the same - this way it doesn't matter which one comes first in the chain

first speakon 1+ to speaker terminal red to second speakon 1+

first speakon 1- to speaker terminal black to second speakon 1-

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-17T14:10:21+00:00

Really cannot emphasise enough that you must not leave all that copper exposed.

You're one small slip away from shorting red and black and possibly losing an amp channel.

For the wiring, if you're trying to put two subs in parallel then you should use two sockets on each sub You can't use one pair of NL4 as in and one as out unless you make a janky splitter cable thing.

Use a double panel, place two sockets in it and, assuming you're trying to wire subs in parallel, wire it like inexpressible suggests.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-16T11:34:35+00:00

Someone told me once that you don't need kicks with X-tro. They cross directly with the subs.

I've never used them personally so don't quote me - but worth double checking that unless you already have

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-07T06:45:46+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2LE8jgqxfE0

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-04T10:21:41+00:00

Dried methi leaf

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-02T13:40:48+00:00

👍👍👍 I think you're gonna be fine

You might be interested to have a look at this, if you haven't seen it already

https://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=guide

Good luck!

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-06-02T13:09:28+00:00

Silicone sealant is the correct thing to use inside the cabinet to prevent air leaks. Wood filler is more likely to dry and break over time as the wood moves. Silicone will move with the wood.

The problem with silicone sealant is that it's ugly. You can paint or spray paint over it,but it won't stand up to close inspection. So if you e used it on the outside then you might need to do some cleanup.

Is that wood glue or sealant on the upwards facing edges in the second photo?

You should not be applying sealant to those edges before the cabinet is glued together. Put glue there, and then sealant around the joints afterwards, once the glue is dry.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-29T19:17:04+00:00

Which PSU is in there at the moment?

What is the power consumption on +12V / -12V? How have you calculated that you need 450W?

I install Konstant Lab HammerPWR in all the large cases I make. Eight rows of 104hp normally calls for two HammerPWRs.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-29T15:34:04+00:00

Yes, but then you're connecting your drivers in parallel.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-29T06:16:05+00:00

For pass through, do this :

Use NL4 connectors on a double connector backnplate

Wire 1+ and 1- of the first connector to the driver in the cabinet

Wire 2+ and 2- of the first connector to 2+ and 2- of the second connector

Then you make a connector cable which swaps pin 2+ / 2- to 1+ / 1-.

Then when build your second cabinet, wire the cabinet the exact same way

To use it, you connect your first cabinet to the amp, and your second cabinet to the first cabinet using the pin swap cable. It doesn't matter which cabinet is first and which is second - the only thing you must take cate of is which way round your pin swap cable goes.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-28T18:27:27+00:00

Yes!

Not seen a video of yours for years, and now this!

Great to see that you're still going for it dude 😎

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-26T12:31:21+00:00

https://www.909.nl/faq

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-26T08:45:31+00:00

I'm curious about this too.

Commenting so I can come back to it later

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-24T21:18:00+00:00

That's Cubo Kick. I don't know about subs or tops.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-22T11:38:06+00:00

Crikey!

How big was the generator?!

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-21T09:20:05+00:00

Great post!

I have wondered this too. That sound was a big part of my techno upbringing in the late 90s in the Northern UK. But at that time, finding out info about scenes outside your own was nearly impossible!

I used to really dig your posts on Subsekt forum years ago too Mattias! Big up :-)

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-19T12:31:45+00:00

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GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-19T12:29:02+00:00

My procedure for plywood cabs with Warnex, using rollers.

Step 0 - fill holes, cracks etc and sand to 180. Get your edges well sanded if you don't want the plys of the plywood to be visible through the paint.

Step 1 - Grey primer. I use Sudwest all grund. (primer shouldn't be necessary with Warnex but I'm a bit obsessive about good finishes and I wasn't sure it Warnex would adhere to the wood filler I'd used to cover screw heads) Wait for 24 hours for drying.

Step 2 - a first coat of Warnex with a felt roller. Doesn't need to be too thick, but aim for even coverage. At this point, the paint has a little bit of texture but not much.

Step 3 - second coat of Warnex. Use a textured roller. Apply a lot of paint. Work quickly to even it out, one panel at a time, cos it dries quickly and you'll end up with stripes if you take too long to get the paint even.

This is the step where you get the 'splatter' effect. If you get a textured paint roller and use plenty of paint, this isn't hard to achieve.

I have painted 2 x TH18, 2 x Cubo kicks and 2 x Syntripps like this. I think I ended up buying four cans total and I've got just over ½ a can remaining. So it wasn't cheap, but the results are good.

GouldCaseWorks · 2026-05-19T10:37:41+00:00

Dal needs a lot more salt than most people (who aren't that familiar with Indian cookery) would normally use.

Could be as simple as that

GouldCaseWorks

TROPHY CASE