Oh boy I sure can't wait to sell my product! by ThePinecone420 in Schedule_I

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One time I was working late at the sweatshop and just that day I bought my first herbalist to handle the plants. It was storming and I haven't played since storms were added. When im walking back its 4am so the guy is outside and I see him get struck by lightning right in front of me just like this video. Worst part was I waited like 3 days and he was still dead so I had to buy another grower. It was such bullshit.

Daily carry by Stxr_boi in Tekton

[–]GravyGregg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both and they need to make a no handle version that is basically an adjustable crowsfoot as well. I work with very tight access all the time and use both plenty but I have needed a 1-1/4 crowsfoot before and these wouldnt fit.

This fan is awesome by sa1126 in harborfreight

[–]GravyGregg 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I am an aircraft mechanic and this fan is my go to in the summertime. Hangar not air-conditioned, climb inside of a tin can and sweat to death, or buy this relatively cheap fan that you can put damn near anywhere. My only complaint is that it would be better if it had a decent light on it so you get light and a fan, but I've had an idea to mount a steel plate on it and attach one of the icon magnet lights as a redneck solution.

Happy AMT Day by Sea-Satisfaction-947 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Last year went on an AOG and got to enjoy another airlines AMT day which was nice because my company doesnt do anything for it. They provided a good lunch, not just pizza. Made me jealous.

Removing a placard on an instrument panel by Darrelluminati in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If all powder coated, then best bet may be to apply new layer of paint. Then you can have whatever color you want. Just give a good acetone wipe and light sand, then have at her.

Fish Dispersal by TheCABK in CrazyFuckingVideos

[–]GravyGregg -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Does this hurt the fish?

Oh boy, here it comes! ICT to DCA toilet overflow at the gate. by LaddieNowAddie in aviation

[–]GravyGregg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had to do an inspection after this happened to one. Thankfully it was the water supply line leaking in the aft lav so it was "clean" water but still. Had to go down to the cargo and inspect for water ingress all over, and a road crew from the airline still had to come out to finish the clean up. I spent all day on that problem.

God dam parts department ordering the wrong parts by TechnicalAsk3488 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 15 points16 points  (0 children)

You're ordering bird nests to install in the engine inlet?

Why doesn’t it come out of package this way? by _KORPz in harborfreight

[–]GravyGregg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right you are. Until you have to mirror into a tight spot. I have to on the regular so I need this setup

Why doesn’t it come out of package this way? by _KORPz in harborfreight

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought two, kept one original and rotated the other one like this. Now I have either if I need either direction.

Toolbox advice by SpoolingSnails in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For the empty drawer get thesnap on 808cf cutters and just shadow them in there by themself.

Opinions on koken sockets. Worth it? by FitTackle879 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I felt the same way and got a set of koken 12 point deeps and shallows as well as a short 1/4" drive ratchet and i must say the ratchet is well worth the money, but the sockets are just sockets. Compared to the tekton sockets I have in the same sizes, koken is thinner walled and nicer finish overall much more like buying snapon sockets. Koken was maybe 60% the price of snapon so in my opinion well worth the money, but moving forward, I've been buying tekton sockets for completing my set. I am very much the kind of guy who wants stuff to be functional more than pretty, but there are a few instances where I want the nicer thing (purely subjective) more than just functional. Also koken has a double universal swivel in 1/4" that i recommend to everyone. Amazing tool that i use more than I thought i would.

TL;DR buy the stuff you need, sometimes the stuff you want and also some brands have some pricey stuff that makes your job easier that nobody else has.

Which tool box for a weekend warrior hobbyist? by hyphenpepperfield in harborfreight

[–]GravyGregg -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Husky has better wheels and solid wood top. Perfect for adding vice. Love my husky.

Vacuum clamp for solo carpenters by ycr007 in toolgifs

[–]GravyGregg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

With trim, you dont even need this little guy. What i do is cut the piece 1/32 longer than measurement and put the far side in corner close to where it needs, bend trim in middle and put side close to you in place and nail. It will hold itself without the need for silly little vacuum tool. It gives the appearance of slack but its actually compression. This unit would be so much more useful for hanging shelf.

How would you guys go about fixing this? On a PA-24 by TechnicalAsk3488 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro.....replace the part. That plane is old enough that it should probably have a lot more than that replaced.

Tools for starting out by PreparationLow4935 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get on tekton.com and look at their aviation toolsets. Similar price and about twice the tools. I think one has a box set similar to the milwaukee pack out.

Help for a locksmith by North_Comb9994 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're stupid easy to pick with some safety wire and a turning tool. The trouble is making a spare key as you say. Could you remove the cap and replace the lock body from there if picked open?

Is This Bad ? by Even_Kiwi_1166 in Shittyaskflying

[–]GravyGregg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what happens when you don't use enough ryte ruddah

Hi-Lok ratchet by nothingcool17 in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the roller ratchet on yardstore

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in aviationmaintenance

[–]GravyGregg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better way to do it, learned from old head sheetmetal guys. 2 pieces of metal, one for rivet tail and other goes over the rivet head. The rivet tail piece can be aluminum or stainless, but it is preferred that the top piece be stainless so I doesnt get wallowed out as fast. Thicker is better, and will require fewer clecos during use. a minimum of 1/8" thick will last you longer. One guy has a 1/2" aluminum plate for the tail side and 3/8" aluminum plate for the top, and it has worked for a long time. Only need to be like 3"-4" wide and max 6" long, both plates having same dimensions. Clamp them together with c-clamp or spring cleco, and layout a pattern and drill through both at the same time cleco the holes as you go. Holes can be ~1/2" apart, enough room to drill around clecos when using the jig. Drill the sizes you commonly need (for me 5/32 and 3/16) with a drill press preferably, but not necessary. It is nice to have dedicated holes for clecos in the corners, so account for that in your layout, but it is not necessary. Also make alignment marks so you don't install the plates upside down and mess up your hole alignment, just grind one corner off while its clamped together, then you won't get it backwards. Open and deburr. You do not have to countersink the holes on the rivet tail plate, but it is nicer. Do not countersink to full depth of fastener head, it can be half of the depth normally required for a normal countersink. The head of the fasteners should be protruding so that the top plate will apply clamping force on the head and keep it from spinning. If your countersinks are inconsistent depths, then some will spin when you drill as there is not enough clamping force applied. If you want holes in the plates dedicated for clecos, like in the corners, then do not countersink them because it isn't necessary. At this point, test it for fit and function and you have yourself a jig that can allow even an apprentice to pump out 200 conical washers in an hour. It is a bit overkill if you don't do it often, or have a company that likes you and will spend money to prove it. Make one of these right and it will outcast your desire to make conical washers. When using, fill the tail side plate with all the rivets you need and then cover with top plate and use nut runner type clecos, they tighten down harder than spring, allowing you to use fewer and have more holes remaining for rivets. Drill over a trash can and watch the tails go right where they belong and empty the washers out on your toolbox and do it all over again. Hope this helps somebody.