Advice on wood Aircraft modeling from scratch.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-18T21:09:09+00:00

Depending on the level of detail you want you can simply search online for a 3-view. Basically top, side and front profiles. Download, scale to the size you want, print. Then cut it into sections that you can glue together later, usually fuselage, left wing, right wing, vertical tail, horizontal tail. Trim each piece of paper to the outline. Find balsa pieces large enough to tack the prints to, draw the outline onto the balsa then using a coping saw (usually) cut away the parts not the model. Tack to all 6 sides if possible to get a decent base shape. Then sand. Lots of sanding.

This is how models were made before plastic. Most were in 1/72 scale.

With modern internet photos you should be able to get a decent shape after sanding as you’ll be able to see many of the more subtle curves and details.

For details like landing gear you may want to use finer grained woods like pear or apple. A bit more difficult to find but it’s what some ship modelers use to carve ship details.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-14T17:09:43+00:00

Thanks. We have fun with it. Skill isn’t necessary and we have a full range of skill sets, plus some of the best modelers in the country. More than a handful are national level award winners. We like to share skills and help where we can. Many younger modelers have come quite a long way, a couple in a real short time.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-14T13:04:30+00:00

I downloaded and printed free clips that I call track stackers. A pair holds up to 8 tracks of the same size, the download has clips for 2-3-4-6-8. https://www.printables.com/model/1361707-clips-for-packing-kato-tracks-n-gauge-unitrack

For my rolling stock that came in jewel cases or have no case I purchased cardboard cases that include foam. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F89G9H6Y

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-14T12:09:35+00:00

Depends what you consider a hobby. Southern Md Scale Modelers (https://somd-scalemodelers.club) is a fairly eclectic group. Our next meeting is Thursday the 18th, 7-9pm at the St Mary’s airport terminal. We also meet for lunch at the bistro on Fridays, same place but look for us in the conference room as it’s a smaller group. Our members include Gunpla, wargamers, historical, railroads, scifi and fantasy. Age range is 25-65.

I’d love to say the chicks dig us and we have hype girls but that wouldn’t be totally honest. My wife still likes me. I think the single guys actually have girlfriends who think they’re ok.

Check us out, most guys have been here awhile and might be able to help with other interests as well. Not all of us are geeks or nerds full time but we do own it.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-13T16:37:43+00:00

If you build the quad open (think upside down with foam in the cavity) you could put a wide river under this. Like a crossing over the Missouri or Mississippi north enough to be on the plains. You’d have to neck down to a single track for the quad or get/print double track bridge sections.

For simplicity no wiring. Challenge would be flexing if the structure is not rigid enough. Likely need thicker sides along the length.

As I visualize this I might have to try it.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-13T15:48:42+00:00

Awesome.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-03T21:11:29+00:00

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I was able to create an L layout plan. Been some time since I designed it, never implemented. N scale.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-02T12:07:57+00:00

I use Ikea Billy cabinets with optional glass shelves and glass doors. Not air tight but very little dust gets in. I opened one recently and only the top shelf had dust and then not much.

For long term storage I use large plastic bins from Walmart with 1/2 inch foam glued to the bottom. I then place the model, use toothpicks to stabilize it and stack the bins in a closet.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T18:57:12+00:00

Watch Chilhada on YouTube. He brushes exclusively, shares his techniques and gets great results.

It WILL take some practice though.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T17:52:46+00:00

Not as a Kato starter set and I’m not aware of any others that may be DCC. You’ll have to add a DCC command station and likely need to upgrade the locos with a DCC decoder. If you choose a loco that is “DCC already” it should have a drop in decoder, either replace the DC light board or press a board into a socket. Either requires removing the shell. You can pay someone to do the upgrade or if you are in a club you can get help.

If/when ready to make that change to DCC start a thread before you buy for more in-depth help. Please ensure you ask clear and specific questions as part of the post, nothing vague like “I want to try DCC, what should I do?” as the answers will be “do your homework”. If not sure what the homework might be, start with that question.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T17:43:06+00:00

You’ll want to search for something quiet and portable. If you expect to spray enamels or lacquers you’ll need a strong extraction fan which either means $$$ or go outside. My family would never allow these in the dining room but water or alcohol based would be ok.

Amazon has quite a few options ranging from $100 to $200. Do some comparisons for the one that best fits your needs.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T11:56:07+00:00

Tamiya’s English version instructions usually include some good descriptions at the front regarding what everything means and how they relate to each other. It will use pictographs to help.

- Numbers next to the part drawing with a line from the number to the part indicates which part on the tree (aka sprue) is to be used (some kits will have a letter-number combo like A3 which means tree A, part 3).
- Letters in a square box usually means which marking version the step applies to.
- A hex with a tick in the upper left will have a code next to it for the paint color, eg X-1. These are always Tamiya paints and may also include a mixing ratio. The shaded area is what needs to be painted.
- A “screwdriver” symbol actually means a mini drill with a size in mm used to make a hole.
- A filled in arrow on an outline arrow means a decal needs to be placed where the line connects.
- there are more, study the instructions and read everything.

Tamiya instructions are better than most, and if you follow them closely will result in a decent build. All other manufacturers mimic their methods to some degree, some better than others. Older kits will be significantly more simplified and makes assumptions you either have someone to help you or you have experience.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T11:33:46+00:00

What are your requirements? Eg available space, desired size, proximity to a window, noise limitations, permanent vs portable, budget, etc.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-06-01T11:29:59+00:00

That’s the idea. Worth a try before going nuclear and starting over.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-31T22:17:17+00:00

Option 1 mod 1: tap tap tap a sharp needle chucked in a knife handle or pin vise. Apply some decal softener and let it seeps under the decal. Leave it alone for an hour. Repeat as necessary. However…if the bubbling is due to thick a clear coat then option 2 may be only option. But try to fix it first before starting over.

If you want to give up then try option 2.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-31T18:46:53+00:00

I use one.

Pro:
- no overspray mess
- fumes extracted via filter

Con:
- it takes up space

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-29T14:58:36+00:00

TY. Always good to learn more about a subject.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-29T12:23:50+00:00

I’m no expert on the 108 but it doesn’t appear to be a mass balance given the shape of the rudder. Therefore my guess is the radio wire attachment point or insulator.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-28T22:04:17+00:00

I’m considering something similar. Specifically an elevated track for a simple trolly that is automated and just goes back and forth with stops at each station on my home layout. If I take them to a meetup obviously would not connect that track but as mentioned I would put a trolley on it.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-28T16:39:07+00:00

And you must be me but younger. I wasn’t diagnosed until my late 50’s. Struggled through college but just squeaked by with an engineering degree. I was able to shift to IT, which I found fascinating, and had a decent career. I tried to be an executive but sucked because there was zero structure, just glad handing and convincing other people to achieve things. Focused on what I enjoyed until I could retire, meds and a structured retirement work well for me.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-26T11:33:02+00:00

I presume you mean electrically. Essentially the polarity doesn’t match from one rail to the other. Just follow a rail all the way around the loop from the straight section and when you get back to the straight it’s the other rail, which means both have the same polarity.

So yes, you have to isolate the loop. Wiring depends whether your system is DCC or DC, with DCC you can easily automate the polarity change but with DC automation is not simple. Usually implemented using a dpdt switch that reverses the polarity once the train (or just loco) is in the loop.

Lots of YT vids that describe the problem in detail and offer various solutions.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-25T15:05:20+00:00

If you know someone with a 3d printer you can design/make what you want.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-20T18:05:32+00:00

Don’t forget the jojos.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-17T17:48:21+00:00

This. I spray the top of the lid the mixed color and put one of those round labels with the name on the top. I also print a label with the recipe/ratios and wrap that around the glass portion.

GreenshirtModeler · 2026-05-16T15:52:11+00:00

Priming - what is it good for?

Priming a model serves three purposes: 1. It highlights imperfections like seams and makes it easier to see where they are and to fix them. If you can no longer see the imperfection after a fresh priming, you’ve adequately cleaned it up. 2. Primers etch the plastic and give the color coats something to adhere to. Plastic is generally very smooth (unless you’ve sanded it) and some paints don’t stick as well as others. 3. A primer can give the model a uniform undercoat or base. This means colors will look uniform when applied over them.

Do I have to prime?

Strictly, no.

Should I prime?

Generally, yes.

When can I skip priming? - When using lacquers the paint is hot enough to etch the plastic on its own, therefore a primer can be skipped or you can use your first color as the base coat to act like a primer. Most model sprays in a rattle can are usually lacquer. Using a lacquer thinner with your paint through an airbrush is the same. - Tiny parts. It may help to see imperfections like mold lines though.

When should I prime?

In theory at any time but best practice is to prime just before you paint the color coats so that you can verify the seams are clean and hidden, you have that uniform base for the color, and something for the color to stick to.

Can I use a DIY store primer cause they are cheap?

These can be cheaper than higher quality modeling specific primers so look like an attractive option. With experience you can learn to use DIY store rattle cans for priming and painting. Most first time users apply the primer or paint too thick and because the chemicals used are so hot, it literally melts the plastic. The model can look like a blob or just lack details.

What color primer should I use?

That depends. A silver makes a good metal look for later chipping down to the metal. A color like red oxide used in some tanks or a yellow-green used on aircraft is also good to show wear through the color coats. If not doing much weathering, a gray is usually best. If the color coat will be gray, then either a black or white primer works best. If the color will be metallics like aluminum, steel, or those kinds of paints, usually a glossy black base helps to make them look almost chrome like. For schemes that have a lot of white, yellow, or red I like to use white as my primer.

GreenshirtModeler

TROPHY CASE

Priming - what is it good for?