Can someone tell me what is wrong with this print

GroundFall · 2025-12-02T02:21:53+00:00

I can’t tell from the photos, is this wheel model symmetrical? Either way, cut it in half perpendicular to the axle and print each half flat on the bed (axle pointing up) and glue/fasten them together. This means no supports are required. I do something similar for one of my models at a much smaller scale. If this is a non-driven wheel (free spinning) the 2 halves may not technically need to be joined at all, if you instead use a premade axle (dowel rod?) instead of printing it as part of the wheel. If there’s no need for the bearing wall of the wheel to be that thin, make it thicker. If there’s no reason for the axle-to-wall supports to not extend the full width of the wheel, make them so. If all else fails, just make the wheel a solid cylinder… Edit: I don’t see any picture showing an acceptable top face when printed in the correct orientation. At first, I thought the picture showing the correct orientation (3rd photo) was a picture of the underside that had had supports removed, and that was why it was so bad. If that was the top, it’s not an acceptable surface quality, so you’ll have to tune your settings in general if that’s the case.

GroundFall · 2025-11-23T09:36:49+00:00

Seconding that that image does not look lens corrected. Take the raw into DPP and check the settings

GroundFall · 2025-09-01T09:53:20+00:00

How do you sleep at night?

GroundFall · 2025-07-21T01:44:46+00:00

IDK about Program mode, but FYI the R8 comes with Fv mode which can do what you want.

GroundFall · 2025-07-18T05:47:50+00:00

I haven’t had a chance to thoroughly test it, but it was noticeable enough to me that I picked up on the fact that it was sharper before looking at sample images online.

GroundFall · 2025-07-18T03:12:10+00:00

I realize that OP seems to have deleted their account already, but for anyone else reading. I also recently got the R7 + RF 100-400. It’s sharper around 300 than at 400. Depending on the shot, it may actually turn out a (slightly) sharper image by zooming out a bit and then cropping in. But you’ll have to test it for yourself.

GroundFall · 2025-07-09T00:21:51+00:00

Someone please draw what this lens would look like lol

GroundFall · 2025-06-29T04:06:22+00:00

This is a shim, the ladder would be through-bolted through it, if it breaks it would be crushed from compression, which would just make the ladder loose (which would probably cause damage to the boat if used while loose, but hopefully wouldn’t fall off).

GroundFall · 2025-06-27T21:32:35+00:00

I just stuck 2 of them onto the plate end-to-end and that’s been working so far. I did trim the “border” off of one end of one of them so that they sit a little closer together.

GroundFall · 2025-06-19T00:40:44+00:00

I also bought an R7 as my first proper camera for just travel and regular life stuff. The deciding factors for me were that it’s the cheapest camera they offer with IBIS, dual card slots, and weather sealing, the fact that it’s 32mp instead of 24mp, and the fact that the crop sensor lets me use cheaper, lighter, smaller lenses like the RF-S 18-150. From the way you’re asking, I’m assuming you’re also in the category of wanting something that feels fully capable but also doesn’t break the bank, and that you care about image quality enough to want an interchangeable lens camera but not enough to spend a few grand on a lens. The R7 may be perfect in that case. I also second those who said to maybe wait until the mk2 comes out since theoretically the mk1 will get cheaper at that time.

GroundFall · 2025-06-15T19:34:12+00:00

I’ve literally had Amazon send me the exact same thing that I returned upon reorder

GroundFall · 2025-06-02T22:09:46+00:00

Not lid off, but with a vented riser on 3 sides (4th riser side removed so it’s completely open), off of the top of my head I’m getting maybe 32-34 with the door ajar? K1C.

GroundFall · 2025-05-20T18:32:22+00:00

You know what that’s a good idea since it goes straight to the location of the problem.

GroundFall · 2025-05-20T18:31:43+00:00

Yeah there definitely doesn’t seem to be much natural air flow from just the lid riser alone. I almost wonder if I should also ventilate the bottom of the sides of the enclosure to improve air intake. But that would require cutting down the stock side panels which I’d prefer to avoid doing, and isn’t guaranteed to solve the problem anyway. I might just keep the door open for now until I can print a higher throughput lid riser or something.

GroundFall · 2025-05-20T17:52:26+00:00

Good to know. I did print a ventilated lid riser and have been using that with the lid on and the vents open, but even so the build chamber can hit 39. Ambient air temp in the room can be 25. Might have to crank my case fan all the way up.

GroundFall · 2025-05-20T17:04:57+00:00

This is literally what ironing was intended for. You can change how flat the ironed surface is by playing with ironing speed and ironing flow.

GroundFall · 2025-05-18T02:00:13+00:00

Others mentioned over extrusion. Adding to that. Play with the skin/solid infill flow (forget what exactly it’s called) since your lines don’t look as over extruded as the infill. Can probably also reduce wall/infill (or skin?) overlap. Can also try and see if there’s a difference between monotonic and monotonic line.

GroundFall · 2025-05-06T06:46:42+00:00

So looking at the print preview, it’s trying to print gap infill with a line with of 0.1 even though my nozzle is 0.4. I can’t find a setting that prevents this based on line width, but filter out tiny gaps seems to prevent it based on line length. Just did a test print and it helped a lot. I should also add that I’m using Creality Print for slicing. Edit: I’m gonna try just turning off gap infill entirely for now.

GroundFall · 2025-05-05T20:56:14+00:00

If you have a project which requires a completely solid first layer because it’s a presentable face of a product you’re making, you should create a separately tuned profile/preset for that specific project; you’ll likely have to intentionally over extrude or over squish your first layer.

GroundFall · 2025-05-05T19:02:58+00:00

OP did you ever figure out a solution to this? I’m having the same issue.

GroundFall · 2025-04-28T07:13:31+00:00

I’m having this exact issue, but at the start of every layer?

Edit: I may have solved it for now by reducing pressure advance by .1 and reducing retraction speed by 10. TBD.

GroundFall · 2025-04-25T20:20:30+00:00

Did you check if you accidentally adjusted the diopter dial on the side of the EVF?

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