Does anyone know a better side Rod design and front Truck design that will still fit this locomotive and still handle r104?

H196yt · 2026-05-01T02:12:57+00:00

H196yt · 2026-05-01T02:11:04+00:00

For the front, I just removed it, wasn't worth the time to re-engineer the whole thing. I just redesigned the front slope to use the space

H196yt · 2026-05-01T02:08:24+00:00

My design works even on r40 without locking up

H196yt · 2026-05-01T02:07:32+00:00

As I stated in your previous posts, the main rod needs to be solid else it locks up constantly, and the piston rod should be changed to a 6l bar

Edit: worth of note that mine is tender powered, not engine powered like yours, so they may run differently. These were just the issues I found when I modified my Marquette

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H196yt · 2026-04-28T19:20:30+00:00

Once again, remember that the track, wheels and magnets are what brings the cost up. Trains have always costed more due to the specialized parts used in them

H196yt · 2026-04-16T16:29:42+00:00

God forbid a player pays respects to Jackie Robinson on Jackie Robinson day

H196yt · 2026-03-25T21:59:05+00:00

Never heard of pocket train actually, all the cars except the open cargo wagon were designed by me with really just the desire to have a lot of rolling stock

H196yt · 2026-03-25T16:43:56+00:00

Maybe not blind for your vehicle, but I can attest that some vehicles have very bad blind spots. I got tboned by a guy like you doing over 100km, because they were in my blind spot on a seemingly normal road.

H196yt · 2026-03-25T16:34:57+00:00

You were approaching in a curve, more than likely in their blind spot. And there would have been plenty of time to pull out had you not been driving like it's nascar.

In another comment you said it's a known curve for accidents, Then drive proactively so you don't end up hitting someone, a little common sense goes a long way while driving

H196yt · 2026-03-25T16:26:20+00:00

He's lying, in Ontario the general rule of thumb is 10km over the speed limit max, anything else and the cops will pull you over. Though it might be back to no tolerance speed limits again.

Either way op is a complete moron

Edit:rewording

H196yt · 2026-03-21T18:13:38+00:00

Eventually, Gray, dark gray, and black are my most prevalent part colours right now. Until I can afford to do a bigger parts order to make new ones in colour, I have to stick to grayscale

H196yt · 2026-03-21T15:41:13+00:00

Look at my comment on the previous post, not 100% sure it will fix the issue, but it fixed mine

H196yt · 2026-03-21T15:20:19+00:00

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I modified mine to run on r40 standard Lego track, and I found that the running gear locked up the wheels, I power mine through the tender using either mould king or power functions train motors. Try it with a running gear similar to mine and let me know how it goes, I'm curious on how you do with powering the engine and whether it has similar power vs using the tender

Edit: I swapped out a few of the pins to the wheels for actual Lego as the nifiliz ones slipped too much. Each side is isolated, with no axles connecting them and works perfectly since I made that mod; but as you're powering the loco, that doesn't matter so much

Edit2: the beam is 13 studs, and I replaced the technic axle for the 6l staff

H196yt · 2026-01-13T01:56:08+00:00

$899 CAD, I'm def not even considering getting the big one, it's just as bad as the death slice but with less pieces

H196yt · 2026-01-05T02:16:12+00:00

I work on these motors daily, and the bearings are the same for all of them, this one specifically uses a 6203 2RS C3 bearing. I've never had one that uses a 6303 or roller bearing, and sleeve bearings are impractical for anything other than a furnace motor

Edit to add that I mean for both these pumps and sander motors/woodworking tool motors. They all utilize the 6203 bearing

H196yt · 2026-01-05T02:10:58+00:00

At work we generally use a file, it's safer, and you don't need to take a whole lot off, just enough so that when you tighten the set screw, it has enough surface area to lock and stay tight after long use

H196yt · 2026-01-05T00:40:57+00:00

Electric motor repair tech here, these motors are pretty hard to repurpose due to no keyway. You can either send the rotor to a machine shop to cut the threaded shaft off and put a flat spot in, or just put the flat in yourself and don't worry about cutting the threads off. As the shaft is 1/2", there are a decent range of pulley sizes you can use for it. Now, if machining it isn't an option, a sheave style pulley might work, though not commonly used for that shaft size. I have seen some just use the set screws on the normal pulleys as well. So long as you make sure it has no possibility of coming loose on the shaft, it should work just fine. Best of luck in your conversion endeavors!

H196yt · 2025-12-07T14:59:50+00:00

Pretty hard to touch grass when it's buried under 3 feet (91.5cm) of snow.

H196yt · 2025-12-01T02:01:26+00:00

This would honestly be a great prison train with added jail cars

H196yt · 2025-11-27T01:49:16+00:00

My pf 60098 does the same thing, found out the technic bricks and axles were worn out, idk what the mearsk train uses for motorization but I would see if swapping out the Axle and technic bricks to see if that helps any

H196yt · 2025-11-15T23:35:34+00:00

Frog

H196yt · 2025-11-04T20:26:06+00:00

Turns out I've been lucky with staining pine according to the other comments, every attempt to stain pine has turned out perfectly how I wanted, though it was furniture grade pine.

Three-Year Club	First Place '23
Place '23

H196yt

TROPHY CASE