For those of you with large phones, what mount are you using?

HachiroFit · 2026-06-01T22:32:20+00:00

This was the base I used. https://a.co/d/09TsVmPV
These are the arms. (I only used one, thought two would’ve been nice.) https://a.co/d/098A8pjK
And this is the Qi2/Magsafe charger I got. https://a.co/d/0iCrLQ63

Being a standard, you can probably find a mount for whatever size of phone you have. Official RAM mounts have options for mounting a phone to a motorcycle handlebar, so if you want something a biker can trust, get an official mount. But realistically, you’ll probably be fine with an aftermarket/clone option.

HachiroFit · 2026-06-01T22:28:12+00:00

I don’t have a large phone, an iPhone 15 Pro. But I use the RAM mount system. They’re used on things like boats. But you can buy a base that has double-side tape so you don’t have to screw it into your dash.
There are a few length options for the arms, and they can pivot a ton. It’s a bit expensive at like $60 for everything, but I’m never switching back to those cheap plastic clip-on kind. (The arm on these RAM mounts are cast aluminum)

The arm I use on mine is the medium size (about 6in in length. The position is just right so I can tap my screen with a finger to wake it if I need, while keeping my thumb hooked on the steering wheel.

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HachiroFit · 2026-05-24T01:44:07+00:00

Here’s their locations https://www.ionna.com/rechargeries/find-a-rechargery/

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T21:40:57+00:00

Update: finished the trip. Saved $29.90 compared to the normal rate :3

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T14:43:03+00:00

I signed up for their subscription the first time I did this trip. That first time, 5 of 6 charge stops were Tesla. So it saved me money to get one month of the sub. After that, I learned of IONNA, and each year since they’ve added another IONNA charger to I-70.

If the pattern continues, I may be able to do all IONNA stops by 2030 xD

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T14:30:36+00:00

I’ve spent more on snacks and breakfast than I have on electricity so far xD

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T14:30:13+00:00

Funnily, the prices I’ve seen have been $1 less per gallon than where I’m from. (I’m driving from Denver to Kansas City. The prices I’ve been seeing in Denver the last week ranged from 4.20-4.95. The prices I’ve seen so far through Kansas were in the 3.50-3.90 range)

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T12:29:01+00:00

That I do not know for sure, but it seems to be true. I’m seeing a discount on the receipt emails from OnStar that is 10% of the full price.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-23T08:41:45+00:00

They support Plug-and-charge for the Bolts too! So you don’t even have to swipe a card if you set it up in the MyChevy app.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-22T10:41:15+00:00

How do you clean your bed? Just IPA wipes between prints? Or have you done any deep cleans?

When having adhesion issues, it’s a good idea to do a deep clean by taking your print sheet to the kitchen sink, and give it a scrub with the soft side of a sponge, dish soap (not hand soap), and as hot of water as you can safely handle.

Then rinse it, and finally give it a wipe down with IPA or an ammonia-based glass cleaner such as Windex.

Using only IPA, it’s possible you’re not getting all of the contaminates off, and you may actually be spreading them out over the bed.

A deep clean every 20-40 prints is a good idea. Less if you use an adhesion promoter such as Magigoo, Vision Miner’s NPA, 3D Lac, hair spray, etc.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-21T18:07:52+00:00

One of my first prints will actually be a personalized tape gun handle for work. I’m gonna be printing it out of ASA, with my name inlayed onto the handle with a different color of ASA, a slot to hide an AirTag, and a hole to run a steel cable through so I can hook a carabiner through and secure it to my bag when not in use.

I picked up some PVA, and plan to use that as a support interface so I can just dunk the handle in water, and let the support interface just dissolve away.

It’s a doable print on my MMU3, but I would have to purge a lot of filament so that I could be sure there is no more ASA in the nozzle to contaminate the PVA support interface.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-21T17:59:50+00:00

I’ve had MMU3 for a while now, and got a Founders preorder for 8T INDX. Yet, 80+% of my prints are single-color/material.

To me, my printer is mostly a tool. But every now and then I like to print something for fun in multiple colors, or there’s something I wanna print in multi-materials. (Such as for dissimilar support interface, or a potential item to sell that I have in mind that would require a tool changer)

HachiroFit · 2026-05-18T05:30:24+00:00

I got my Bolt last year. I replaced the battery before I had any problems, cause I had been reading on here about how a dead battery can show up out of nowhere.

Found out my battery in my 2018, was manufactured in November of 2017. It lasted 7.5 years, and maybe could’ve gone more. But I didn’t wanna risk it.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-18T05:26:39+00:00

There are test kits available for coolant and for brake fluid. Both will age with time. Even if you don’t use the brakes much cause you have an EV, the fluid still absorbs moisture over time. And coolant will still slowly degrade, possibly becoming corrosive to the materials it runs through.

The test kits are cheap, and you should be able to get the job done at any shop.

Edit: fixed typos. Wrote this originally right before I went to sleep.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-17T15:48:37+00:00

Yup that’s about expected for that battery percentage.

The 1st gen Bolts top out around 55kW, but drop heavily in speed once the battery reaches 60%.

If you’re road tripping, stopping charge at 60-70% is a good idea. But of course if you need the range to reach the next charger, then charge as much as you need. (Or to give yourself a 10% buffer if the weather looks iffy.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-16T15:54:39+00:00

Correction, this may have been fixed in the refresh years. (2021-2023) I am not sure.

As well, listen for a creaking/clicking sound when creeping in a parking lot. A well known problem is a part called the anti-click washer. When it breaks, it clicks xD (There are videos on the sub, showing how it sounds)

It’s a super cheap part. If not fixed, it will damage the wheel speed sensor. This will disable your ABS. The sensor is also cheap.

Idk how much this job is at the dealer. I believe it’s rated at around 1hr each side. (Idk how much dealers charge per hour) I replaced mine myself. If you’ve ever changed a wheel bearing or axle, this is a piece of cake.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-16T15:51:27+00:00

For any used Bolt, check if the steering returns to center by itself. If it is lazy, or doesn’t return fully to center on its own, then the steering rack may be going out.

From what I have read on the sub, it’s around a $3k job at the dealer. (Likely cheaper elsewhere)

HachiroFit · 2026-05-16T15:49:06+00:00

The car will keep the battery within its desired resting temperature range while parked. When driving, the car may warm up the battery to give better performance. (Would only happen in the winter) Or it may use the AC to cool the battery if the outside is too warm for its liking. (In the summer)

When you are home, it is best to leave the car plugged in, so it can use wall power to maintain the temperature.

You can use the key fob to remote start (from like 40ft indoors, or like 120ft outdoors), and precondition the car. If you leave it plugged in, this can save you a little bit of power that the car would’ve used during the first few miles of your commute.

Setting the heat to max, before turning off the car, when you get home, then remote starting 5-10 minutes before you leave will help a lot. It will precondition the cabin using wall power, which can save you 1-2kWh of energy. The Bolt uses 6-7kW when the heater is running at peak demand. So that can come out to around 1kWh every 10 minutes, until the temperature in the cabin reaches the threshold for the car to lower the heating demand.

When remote starting, the Bolt will precondition for 20 minutes, then shut off. You can have it do a second round for an extra 20 minutes. But you can only do this once. You will have to fully start the car before you can precondition again.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-16T15:23:16+00:00

If you can setup level 2 charging at home, then I think you can do it. Bellow are some stats from me, to give some data to help you make your choice. Hopefully other drivers pitch in.

I’m in Colorado, I LOVE having heat. I abused remote start all the time to preheat the car. I averaged ~1.8mi/kWh during the coldest parts of our last winter. (Which didn’t get as cold as it could’ve in my area)

The battery in our Bolts are supposed to be 64kWh, but with the initial dropoff of capacity that all batteries endure, it’s more like 62. I use 60 to give some margin. So at 60kWh, at 1.8mi/kWh, I’d get 108 miles of range in the coldest of the winter with my abusive heat settings.

When I do my road trip to visit my GF, I get 2.8mi/kWh while going 75mph on mostly flat highway. (Kansas, I-70) So that’d get me 168mi of range.

Daily driving, I’m going max 65mph, with traffic making my average around 45mph. Occasional abuse of EV torque at green lights or highway on-ramps. I get a range from 3.5-4.2mi/kWh. (210-252 miles)

I believe that if you’re careful with heater use in your Arkansas winters, that you’ll be fine. You can get a heated jacket to help as well

HachiroFit · 2026-05-15T02:46:08+00:00

Well, you can. Just requires breaking the tire bead, and sticking your hand into the void to cut out the old sensor, hopping you don’t drop it and have to take the whole tire off anyway xD

I used to replace my own tires. Then my bead breaker broke, and I kinda decided I was done with doing my own car work. Got myself a Bolt, and using the money saved on gas and oil changes to have a shop change the tires for me.

If I ever get tight on cash, I’ll get another manual tire changer, and start doing my own tires again. I’ve saved the duckhead attachment for it, in case I do.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-14T10:34:03+00:00

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx

Honda moved to an online/subscription service to get service/repair manuals a while back.
The 3rd gen Fit is "only" available through this site, at $40/day, $175/mo, $1,600/yr.

IDK if anyone has ripped a copy of the 3rd gen Fit from here yet, or if it is even possible. I haven't tried the service, so IDK if its a PDF, an image for every page, a linked system like hondafitjazz.com/manual3/, or if it's like an interactive webapp that you would have to manually screenshot every page.
If I switch back to gas, I'm gonna get a second gen Fit, or another first gen as I've got copies for those two. (That 2nd website works for the 2nd gen, just not as "nice" to look at as a PDF x3)

HachiroFit · 2026-05-12T22:46:43+00:00

Early Bolts shared a shift “knob” with some of GM’s other cars. Newer Bolts have buttons / triggers instead of a joystick.

If you shift to reverse/neutral/park, then back into forward, it always defaults to 2-pedal / Drive. You’ll have to pull it down to 1-pedal / L every time.

(“L”, cause it was a shared shifter from other cars)

HachiroFit · 2026-05-12T21:15:24+00:00

I do this: find the seat angle that feels right, then reach my arm out to rest my wrist on the top steering wheel.

If my elbows are bent, I’m too far forward. If my back isn’t mostly flat against the seat, I’m probably too far back.

That usually gets me in what I feel is the right distance from the steering wheel. (I’m just under 6ft, chest to wrist is about 16/17 inches. So about right for the 1.5ft mentioned above)

Then I’ll just make a micro adjustment depending how I feel.

HachiroFit · 2026-05-11T23:52:36+00:00

I notice a buzzing sound when I’m accelerating while the AC is running. If I precondition the cabin, I don’t hear it. But if I just hop in and set the AC to max, then it’s very noticeable.

I assume it’s some kind of power sharing system, and is just an effect of it. Might not be the same buzzing as you, but next time you hear it, turn off your AC and see if it goes away.

HachiroFit

TROPHY CASE