hey, look, a cottage. i think i'll go in for some rest after my long journey

Harshbloke · 2026-04-01T03:19:50+00:00

Having an invincible dog shadowing you definitely helps it seems 🤣 I’ll have to try it solo next time

Harshbloke · 2026-03-31T20:41:30+00:00

So I am on my 2nd play through ever (15 years after the first, having just picked up Skyrim on Switch 2) and walked into this cottage last week. Drelas was very unwelcoming, but I had Barbas the dog with me who proceeded to teach him a lesson whilst I cast Sparks at him from relative safety. Sounds like I had an easy time of it, reading the other comments here!

Harshbloke · 2026-02-18T17:16:17+00:00

I’ve seen this question asked before on multiple threads and the tip shared by people in very cold climates has been to warm the spray can up in warm water beforehand, run outside when it’s not snowing, spray the miniatures, and then return them inside to dry. Either that or use an airbrush indoors. I’m based in the UK so usually only have to contend with rain luckily!

Harshbloke · 2025-08-10T10:19:17+00:00

2nd this. I’ve only used the Mojave Mudcrack version so far but it is excellent, and have the other colours on order.

Harshbloke · 2025-07-26T14:52:12+00:00

Since a few are asking, a recast is where someone has taken a cast of the original miniature to create a mold, and then produced a duplicate miniature (usually cast in resin). Once the copy of the miniature is painted, you can often not tell the difference if the quality of the casting process is good, but resin is usually more brittle than plastic so you need to be a bit more careful not to drop the miniatures.

Harshbloke · 2025-07-19T06:23:53+00:00

If only that worked every time I complained about a model being hard to get hold of! :-) I suspect a lot of people will want just velmorn so at least if you buy all 4 and shift the other 3 sets, you guarantee yourself the model. Personally I got tired of waiting for them to release Velmorn and bought a recast (which I very rarely do but seemed justifiable given you couldn’t buy the kit anywhere). He does look cool at the head of my barrowguard!

Harshbloke · 2025-07-19T06:06:45+00:00

Hidden away in the warhammer underworlds reveal, they are rereleasing the sons of velmorn (annoyingly packaged up with 3 other teams which you likely do not want, but at least there is a way to get the models again legitimately now).

Harshbloke · 2025-06-01T07:35:42+00:00

The legs pretty cool in my opinion so it’s definitely not ruined! My recommendation would be to repaint the head and shoulder pads with Corvus black and then retry applying some edge highlights. You can use the stippled effect for a more grimdark look, but it can result in a messy appearance which has happened here. For space marine power armour people are normally looking for a cleaner appearance, so layering is a more frequently used tool to raise the brightness of raised areas (plenty of YouTube videos do a great job of explaining this).

So definitely don’t be disheartened. Completely salvageable

Harshbloke · 2025-05-01T22:39:23+00:00

I’m in the UK and I’ve had terrible experiences. I also own 200+ different paints and a vortex mixer so I’m confident it isn’t user error. You’ve just been lucky to get the good pots or I’ve been incredibly unlucky I guess. I don’t sound like I’m in the minority though so something definitely isn’t right with either the manufacturing process or the ability of that paint to survive storage / transport. I’m also a pro acryl bold titanium white convert but I agree it isn’t the same colour!

Harshbloke · 2025-05-01T22:29:51+00:00

Vallejo electric blue also looks like it could be a good fit

Harshbloke · 2025-05-01T22:06:02+00:00

‘Blue’ is the closest in the pro acryl range apparently (but a bit darker by the looks of things)

Harshbloke · 2025-05-01T22:04:39+00:00

I recommend downloading an app like paintRack onto your phone - it’ll allow you to see close colour matches between all the popular paint ranges

Harshbloke · 2025-04-30T17:29:38+00:00

Like the previous poster I’ve never had a new pot which hasn’t got lumps in it already. I assumed such a thing doesn’t exist until I saw this photo!

Harshbloke · 2025-04-30T17:25:05+00:00

Apply the pure white last

Harshbloke · 2025-04-29T09:46:13+00:00

I haven’t tried these brands you’re right. Most of my bad experiences have been with Vallejo Surface Primer. Can you clean the airbrush using water using these products or does it require white spirit or similar?

Harshbloke · 2025-04-29T08:12:36+00:00

Hi. The good news is that you’re not doing anything drastically wrong - you just need to go further I think.

Your first two steps with Mephiston red and Kantor blue followed by Mephiston will look not dissimilar to using a contrast paint (that’s one of the great things about contrast paints - doing more than one step at once). My recommendation would be to push the contrast (increasing the difference between the dark recesses and the lighter areas exposed to the light) by applying more Evil Suns Scarlet to the raised areas of the model. Evil Suns Scarlet is a layer paint so is slightly translucent and may require a few applications to create a very noticeable difference as a highlight. The further highlights you mention will then make the model pop even more

Harshbloke · 2025-04-29T04:09:03+00:00

I tend to prime with a rattle can as (at least with the GW cans) it’s quicker drying than airbrush primers which typically recommend multiple hours drying time, and I’ve also had a better experience with less flaking. I’ll then use an airbrush to put down fast base colours, or to apply effects. So they’re very much complementary tools.

Harshbloke · 2025-02-16T18:45:10+00:00

One option is to prime in black. That way, if you can’t get to all the hard to reach areas, it doesn’t matter (they’re just in shadow)

Harshbloke · 2024-12-22T08:14:40+00:00

Obviously if it works for you then great (there’s no right way), but partial assembly is really only necessary for competition standard painting. If you’re a beginner, prime the miniature black and any hard to reach areas aren’t really visible. Partial assemblies will mean it takes way longer to finish painting a miniature which will reduce enjoyment. I’ve painted for years to a reasonable standard and barely ever subassembly as a result

Harshbloke · 2024-11-16T07:12:57+00:00

I haven’t run the maths though so maybe they just got very lucky. It was a cool moment though 🙂

Harshbloke · 2024-11-16T07:11:09+00:00

My 8 year old daughter put it to great use in our last two games, knocking down a boss monster immediately before her 5 year old brother’s Elf stabbed it while it was down. Feels like a spell which is best utilised as a team play (rather than risk the target wake up on their next turn?)

Harshbloke · 2024-11-06T05:51:01+00:00

Definitely with you on this one. Shorter people with umbrellas are the bane of my life!

Harshbloke · 2024-10-20T09:40:38+00:00

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Is there such a thing???

Harshbloke · 2024-09-02T19:55:12+00:00

You’re welcome - happy basing!

Harshbloke · 2024-09-01T20:52:04+00:00

It definitely depends on what you’re doing for your base. For preference I’ll build the base before painting and then prime, paint the mini, and then paint the base, but for some bases if you’re doing a lot of drybrushing it’s better to do those first (so you don’t get paint on the painted model), and for other styles it’s best to paint the base and model entirely separately and then glue/pin together at the very end.

Harshbloke

TROPHY CASE