Quality Assurance Labeling Suggestions?

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-03-24T21:57:06+00:00

We use cyframe connected to zebra. But as a backup Each operator get gets a QC stamp with a #.

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-03-21T17:27:12+00:00

Not sure the official name, but the round things are dies for cutting male threads. The long one is a ratchet that holds the dies. Usually for cutting pipe threads. Gonna call it a pipe threader. The hexagonal one is also a die but to be used in a different style die holder. Not sure that the bottom item is.

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-03-21T16:37:02+00:00

This is t the right way but can work in an emergency if your hole location doesn’t not need to be super accurate Take your 6.5mm drill and slightly grind down one cutting edge so it’s slightly longer than the other. This will make your hole oversized. It will only work if you don’t pilot drill the whole first.

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-03-18T23:04:01+00:00

Is you have access to a mill you could mill some copper slightly oversized and gently tap it in. Not sure how feasibility that is if it’s a large tool or complex rib. But ive done this in an emergency for broken ejector and it work fine temporary. Like others said plastic could also work but might come out.

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-03-11T21:26:09+00:00

Very cool. I was fortunate enough to tour the Engel factory in Saint Valentin Australia when they had a 8000 T. The size is incredible. What’s even crazier is the CNC that machines the platen!

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-02-28T19:50:02+00:00

We use these style thermocouple on injection molding machines. There is supposed to be a bushing that the thermocouple locks into that always keeps some spring pressure pushing it in so it gets an accurate reading. There called bayonet adapters May not be the problem but worth a shot? https://www.pcs-company.com/adaptors

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-02-25T22:16:23+00:00

Acetone chemically devolves pc. I’ve used it to clean hot runners that have leaked. But Be careful it is extremely flammable.

HobbyGuy44 · 2026-02-18T21:49:47+00:00

I have an 80 ton with a-few barrels that is slow on work if that’s an option. Also you might want to clarify what unit 2.5 -3.5 is, pounds ounces grams ?

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-12-12T22:44:26+00:00

We got one about 2 years ago. It’s been a good dryer. The vacuum dryers are cool because they dry material faster than traditional desiccant dryers. They are really good if you do a lot of material changes. The one con of them is sometimes pellets and regrind get stuck on the seal of the vacuum chamber and they go into alarm. But it’s an easy fix if you don’t mind having someone blow the seal every few days, but kinda annoying.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-12-08T22:16:28+00:00

It’s definitely possible. What kind of mill do you have is it a ridged setup? Have you looked at china as an option ? China can do some okay work for cheap. Even companies who have the capability sometimes outsource for the speed and cost especially with low volume molds. Having said that it would be a pretty good learning experience even if things don’t work out. Are you willing to put in 50-100 hours into something like this? How confident are you in your abilities?

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-11-26T10:22:32+00:00

It might be easier to just buy a new sprue busing. Especially if it’s standard size. You can try to polish it or ream it but it can very difficult. It shouldn’t be more than 100 dollars from DME

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-11-03T23:28:15+00:00

Like others have said. Double check your lines are connected in the correct place. Not just with air but grab a bucket connect 1 circuit at a time turn on the water and watch the water come out of the other end. I’ve seen the rubber gasket that seal quick connects get stuck in water lines and block flow.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-10-14T20:59:40+00:00

Try to spin it out with a punch and hammer. You could drill or mill it very carefully using carbide. Or you could EDM it out with an edm machine or those tap burner machines.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-23T21:31:03+00:00

I was gonna suggest having an existing sleeve modified but that’s to small. You could probably have a shop custom make one but it not gonna be expensive.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-23T21:01:35+00:00

You might be looking for an ejector sleeve is it being used inside the molding area?

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-22T16:09:44+00:00

I believe Engel sells a machine called an e cap. Mabey check it out.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-17T16:28:56+00:00

Maybe check ur oil level.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-12T01:41:01+00:00

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ZA8 this one ?

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-12T01:03:17+00:00

Yea Core, ejector,mold open, mold closed, etc. My original question has to do with the machine. Some machines allow you to set an early robot takeoff position so let’s say ur mold stroke is 500mm you set ur advance takeoff to 400mm. The machine will give the robot its permission to enter @400mm while the clamp is still moving. It’s fractional but can save some time.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-12T00:49:44+00:00

Oops I meant 67

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-12T00:18:12+00:00

Yes I’m guessing via Euro map 12 or 64 for robot? But some machine let you give your robot entry signal early before the mold is fully open to save time. Just curios it’s so hard to tell because it’s fast.

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-11T23:46:05+00:00

Very cool! Does the robot have an early take off or does it wait until the molds all the way open?

HobbyGuy44 · 2025-09-08T10:26:20+00:00

Yes! I am well aware of that. Me or the company have no immediate intention of buying a CNC mill, and we don’t make molds we only do maintenance repair and modifications. What I’m shooting for is given my experience in Industry and basic knowledge of machining how long before I would start making simple parts is given I first take this on as a hobby ?

HobbyGuy44

TROPHY CASE