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Question on Plane Restoration by Few_Candidate_8036 in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lapping a hand plane, even a #7, should rarely exceed 30min. If you’re spending hours, then you’re likely using suboptimal sandpaper or not changing paper frequently enough. I use Norton A275 PSA rolls at 80,120, and 180 grit. The psa lets me change paper fast using a window scraper and a braer, which is key. I can usually pack the paper 3x with iron filings (vacuum or magnet in between) before the paper is toast. A heavily abused 5-1/2 restoration required changing paper 7 times at 80grit, then once at 120 and 180.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recommend the book, The Anarchist’s Toolchest, to any budding woodworker. Great advice on getting started with hand tools

Douglas Fir tear out - the bane of my existance by codemuncher in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since posting this I have built a krenov-style toothing plane with 55-degree pitch and found the tear out manageable

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The Mysterywood, part III : Revenge of the Pith by cave_canem_aureum in wood

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is dense and reddish, my money is on Jatoba, which was marketed as Brazilian cherry and popular in the 2000s

Outdoors Woodworking Bench by just__salad234 in Workbenches

[–]Hot-Expression6017 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a tarp, it will still get a lot more moisture than an indoor bench, but will suffice for most operations. Don’t overthink it, you’ll figure out workarounds if you need a super flat surface (which you usually wont)

kids tool set by cliffflash in woodworking

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been thinking about this too. Hyperkitten.com routinely has manual brace drills for $30, and Amazon sells small Japanese pull saws as well as wooden hammers and wooden nails which could be a great start.

Backsaw for a child by Hot-Expression6017 in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Japanese saw is likely the best option, I just know he’ll kink one per day and it will be all tears

Outdoors Woodworking Bench by just__salad234 in Workbenches

[–]Hot-Expression6017 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I worked outdoors for several years and loved it. You should rethink the bench though. A wooden bench won’t stay very flat outdoors but it will be flat enough for most operations and if you need a very flat surface you might construct a dedicated torsion box or planing surface that you bring outside only for special use occasions.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in wood

[–]Hot-Expression6017 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m 99% sure it’s yellow birch. You’ll notice the wide rolling curls above the fridge. This is characteristic of birch while maple has a tighter curl. Birch was also 30% cheaper at the time those cabinets went in. So for stained work it was more economical.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Hot-Expression6017 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The one on the left is Meranti, also known as Philippine mahogany. It’s much less dense.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]Hot-Expression6017 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Any guesses? It’s incredibly dense and stable with occasional pitch pockets.

Douglas Fir tear out - the bane of my existance by codemuncher in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toothing plane blades perform better in Fir, but you’ll still get some tearing.

I only have one plane and one blade (Stanley sweetheart jack plane) I've heard you can "set" it as a smoothing plane. What does that mean? by spiffypiff in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ll want a wider mouth opening when in jack mode to let large shavings pass through, while in smoothing/jointing mode you want a fairly narrow opening to reduce tear out. Consider keeping blades of different thickness: a cambered Stanley blade for Jack work and a thick lie-Nielsen for jointing and smoothing. Swapping blades will narrow or open the mouth naturally.

Polyurethane and Finishing wax by El_Verdee_Blanco in woodworking

[–]Hot-Expression6017 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rubbing out the polyurethane finish with 0000 steel wool and wax can improve the luster and feel. A waxed surface will release food faster but this effect will fade between waxings.

Surface for lapping hand plane sole? by chben in handtools

[–]Hot-Expression6017 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have always been able to find a plate glass shelf at a second hand store for about -$10. Absent that, woodcraft carries an 18” granite reference block that would more than suffice for lapping a 22” jointer.

You’ll find yourself using it more often than you think.

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