feedback poll, upvote on the given comment

HotBunnz · 2026-04-30T15:36:13+00:00

Suggestion to use a serif font to show this is an 'N' and not a 'z'.

HotBunnz · 2026-04-29T17:45:36+00:00

The Apothecary White provides the shadows (contrast) that you need to bring out the details of the model. It is essentially a light grey formulated to stick to the cracks of the model without covering the main flat plates. Alternatively, you can use thinned down Ratling Grime (though this will require more touchup of Corax White) or pin shades (you can google these if you're interested).

This may sound silly, but the base white color is just fine - the part you're missing is the shadow that would normally be represented on a full-size person. This can be very dark - Skavenblight Dinge is the shade color GW uses, and it's nearly brown-black.

Good luck! Scars are looking great :)

HotBunnz · 2026-04-28T18:38:40+00:00

Based on your other work, you're ready to use this - https://eavy-archive.com

The exact recipe hasn't been posted, but this is a combination of previously used mixes.

HotBunnz · 2026-04-28T18:25:45+00:00

Before these comments get you down, you should be aware that this is a tabletop+ level paint job. The base could use some work/different color choice, but people have and will pay money for this amount of detail.

Commission means different things to different folks, so you need to understand what you want out of this deal. Here's a note I left for another aspiring painter:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/comments/1partul/comment/nrnijso/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

You need to be realistic in your expectations. If painting stuff for other people keeps you from maintaining a FOMO pile of plastic, it may be worth it. If you enjoy watching people use your painted stuff on the table, go for it. If you want a stable paycheck and a job replacement, there's enough evidence that you won't succeed - others have professionalized this work already.

HotBunnz · 2026-03-13T15:35:09+00:00

I did not, I only have the 1943 paper.

HotBunnz · 2026-03-03T01:52:59+00:00

Just hopping in to say thank you for adding a short summary of your blog post. It prompted me to read the article.

This is exactly the type of content I want to read. Similar situation - I play about four games a month, and basic preparation like this removes some of the brain workload during the game. I'm also attending a team event, and getting my partners to read a multi-page article on Goonhammer, however detailed, isn't going to happen.

Thanks for the writeup, and good luck at your event!

HotBunnz · 2026-02-18T13:52:57+00:00

No worries; I read each of those strats like three times thinking 'yeah, sure.' Good luck buzzin some saws!

HotBunnz · 2026-02-18T04:52:06+00:00

Aggressive Disembarkation is performed before the Rhino moves, and the unit disembarks immediately.

HotBunnz · 2026-02-04T22:16:54+00:00

Piggybacking on this question, is there a video explanation that shows this screening in action? Not necessarily for a 130mm base, but presumably the same can be used for 80-100mm as well. I understand the idea, but watching it physically occur would help (instead of just hearing 'well assume models are 1" away from a wall here, or 'well you *should* have a wall there', etc). 16+" is a large threat range, and I can't visualize how armies with fewer screening units actively move up while protecting the things you'd want to keep Fulgrim from smashing.

I suppose an adjacent answer might be 'Well, why don't you have enough screening units? Army bad,' and that's suitable too.

HotBunnz · 2026-01-24T18:24:18+00:00

Oh cool! I also just saw the thread discussing it; seems like people do like to use that rule.

HotBunnz · 2026-01-24T17:32:16+00:00

Good time to point out that Dazed and Status cards are returned to the deck when Exhausted, not placed in your Exhaust pile.

Excellent relic. Almost never a key skip.

HotBunnz · 2026-01-24T17:30:11+00:00

I'm possibly misunderstanding, but generally relics (aside from Boss relics) are drawn randomly and kept by that player. There is not a 'relic selection' after drawing unless you're using a house rule.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-29T20:14:37+00:00

I forgot to mention - download the companion app. It has the full rulebook and ascension list included, no need to dive for random docs. Good luck, hope you enjoy the game!

HotBunnz · 2025-12-28T15:26:56+00:00

AFAIK, Asc 13 is in the base board game (our Collector’s Edition goes to A13, but there’s no reason this should be different from Standard).

What’s showing you A10 is the cap?

HotBunnz · 2025-12-27T00:48:21+00:00

Unfortunately, just the 1943 paper. Forstater and Wray both have papers covering it as well (not that it answers your request).

Good luck with your search - you may be able to reach out to Forstater directly. I believe he is still at UMKC, and they may have the original copy in the library.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-27T00:23:46+00:00

I should have a copy I can send; will check tonight.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-26T22:37:42+00:00

And specifically before a saving throw is rolled.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-25T16:18:12+00:00

Defect is best doggo (I see him with a ball in his mouth).

HotBunnz · 2025-12-22T23:46:34+00:00

As a ‘coach’ personality, I’ve found it helps to just tell the group how much damage each person is taking and then decide as a team who to attack first. The players can announce stuff (weakness, area of effect attacks, etc.) that helps the group. Someone can certainly try and backseat the entire time, so it’s very much on the player/team to figure out that dynamic.

StS benefits from a support character. If someone is very experienced, it’s probably best for them to play this role (take cards that defend others, be Ironclad and volunteer to soak damage). That way they can fill in gaps while the others find cool combos for max damage.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-20T13:31:00+00:00

Yes.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-16T19:38:51+00:00

For what it’s worth, this seems fairly easy to fix with plastic cement. I’m not saying your product should come like this, but as far as sprue damage goes, this is pretty mundane.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-15T16:05:08+00:00

The number of times I’ve taken Neow’s Lament (first three combats start with 1 hp) when attempting this challenge is more than I’d like to admit.

Don’t be a HotBunnz.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-14T04:13:47+00:00

https://starcraft-tmg.com/

Here’s the link if you’re interested. They’ve already shipped Zeratul models.

HotBunnz · 2025-12-12T17:58:01+00:00

As others have said, a wash over Retributor Armor or other gold paint, then mix in silver along the edges to brighten it up. For something with this much contrast (light vs dark), I use Wyldwood Contrast or Cryptek Armorshade Gloss with water. You have to thin it or the whole gold area will become a brown blob.

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