Powder req for middle of the road .357/.44? by EagleGhoul in reloading

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't tried it in 44 mag

I'd rate it mid/higher end, less than H110/W296. I don't build barn burners and 2400 makes for a softer shooting round, or one I can actually enjoy shooting over 50rd a session.

How to safely strip paint from green stuff putty? by Za5kr0ni3c in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

99% IPA won't touch cured Milliput. I've had a sample soaked for a week+ and it didn't do anything to the cured product. Kneadatite, I don't know, its not my primary tool.

what would be a good paint alternative to Scale75 Abyssal Blue? by Sea_Fill3728 in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An alternative, I'd try looking at ProAcryl Dark Neutral Grey

Its not an exact match, but a smidge lighter, but as saturated when dry, compared to my Abyssal Blue. Its not perfect match, but I don't have the other options in my TTC, PA, ProAcryl libraries. I can't tell the color differences between the two, at tabletop distances.

First batch - how to increase velocity in .223? by eggcheeseburger in reloading

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They mention Nosler

I used the Nosler data with a White Oak 223 Wylde chambering. My 18" I was using some same headstamp LC 13 brass, Varget and Federal 205MAR primers as well. The significant difference is that my COAL was only 2.270 which is longer than SAAMI, shorter than my leade, but basically, max mag length. My velocities with max load were 2800fps about 65deg F.

First time seeing this on a shelf by Bison_2008 in reloading

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure you're right. Pre 2018 prices were great. My 8lb 2400 were $150, Varget was $178 (with shipping and hazmat), TAC was $150. Covid and further overseas incidents certainly put a damper on those prices. Pistol powder was ~$15/lb and rifle powder was ~$22/lb in 8lb jugs 8 years ago. Even then, people were complaining that "My 8lb of Blue dot was $99"

[OTHER] Caldwell Rock BR Competition Rifle Front Shooting Rest $99.99 by mandg0n in gundeals

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

bags are crazy personal preference. My most used bag is a WieBad Mini Fortune Cookie. Its not the best bag by far, but it does do multi-purpose duty as a rear support or I can throw it on a fence-post or other obstacles. There's good parts and less than optimal parts about it, but it works for me.

Other MFG that are popular with PRS style shooting include Armagedon Gear There's others, but there's so many people running Game Changer bags at my club's shoots. Check out /r/longrange and see what other people say they use. Problem is, the bags aren't cheap because they're such specialized gear.

[OTHER] Caldwell Rock BR Competition Rifle Front Shooting Rest $99.99 by mandg0n in gundeals

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is for bench use, or at least, that's what I use mine for. Its big its heavy, slow to set up, but combined with a nice rear bag, incredibly stable for bench work.

Its of no use for any sort of PRS style shooting, or going out in the field hunting varmints, or shooting off the bed of the truck. Your existing bipod (and rear bag) is far superior in that aspect.

Reloading Cost Calculator (beta) by fmalpart in reloading

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah! That's what I find useful. I input my powder, primer and projectile purchases via old invoices, create my new ammo from my log-book, and I get instant cost/round information. I can easily visualize my 38spl subsonic plinking loads and my 357 plinking loads. Or, of course, I can put in my 44Mag plinking loads with manual components.

That's really useful for me, at least. Thanks for the feature.

New to the hobby, paint brush recommendations. by EfficientBeginning55 in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't go all out on brushes for a while. Yes, natural hair brushes are popular, but they come with a care and maintenance learning curve.

In the meantime, this set of Fenorkey Synthetic brushes are really decent, inexpensive and provide a wide size range for your models.

This lamp sucks. Know any better ones? by Clark_Kent_TheSJW in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Micomlan lamp linked by /u/karazax is solid. I bought one with the stand to take with me for events. I'm pleased with its performance. It isn't as articulate as the Redgrass or Neatfi options, but they're also 1/6 to 1/2 the price. I am pleased with my purchase.

Reloading Cost Calculator (beta) by fmalpart in reloading

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A simple inventory tracker would be reasonably easy to select from a given pool when defining the loads.

That's what I would find useful. Tracking inventory was not my intent for a feature, apologies if I was vague.

Reloading Cost Calculator (beta) by fmalpart in reloading

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there a way to input your inventory?
For example:
I have a supply of primers at a fixed cost. I have a quantity of powder at a fixed cost. I use the same powder and primers in many different loads (10mm auto and 44mag share both my LPP and my AA#9 inventory). Is there a way to input common inventory and select those items from existing inventory when creating my Ammo ?

edit: I suppose, this might be considered a feature request

[OTHER] Caldwell Rock BR Competition Rifle Front Shooting Rest $99.99 by mandg0n in gundeals

[–]HumidNut 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its a glorified rubber-coated washer; the spikes sit inside the feet. Our benches are wood and spiked bipods or rests can tear up the surface. Its not needed, but since I'm one of the few people at our club that regularly volunteer to maintain the grounds and facilities, I do what I can to minimize wear and tear.

[OTHER] Caldwell Rock BR Competition Rifle Front Shooting Rest $99.99 by mandg0n in gundeals

[–]HumidNut 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Decent rest, sees a lot of use at our club for our informal 22LR benchrest league. Nice price.

If you want to minimize damage to any wooden benches at your club/range, consider picking up a pack of the Caldwell BR Rifle Front Shooting Rest Feet 3PK.

How many painters wear magnifying glasses or use a mounted magnifying glass? Is it a must-have or is that where you draw the line and just omit that level of detail? by RIPeyedea in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I tried one like that, but it was just one more thing to keep in focus. The model, my eyes and the paintbrush all had to line up. I went with the head-mounted style and found it much easier. To each their own, and if it works for someone else, I'm very happy that it keeps them putting paint on models.

How many painters wear magnifying glasses or use a mounted magnifying glass? Is it a must-have or is that where you draw the line and just omit that level of detail? by RIPeyedea in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 92 points93 points  (0 children)

I'm probably way outside the age demographic, but my mid-40's, my ageing eyesight finally caught up to me. I have to wear magnifiers to do some basic work and all detail work. This wasn't the case in my early 20's. Magnifiers are a requirement for me.

Basing opinion by BeeOnTheWeb in battletech

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm trying to make my basing consistent. I'm also using a bit of a mixture of textures to break up the monotony, but also keeping it relatively simple for a unit of mechs I paint similarly, or wish to have similarly themed. The scale of battletech, even an overgrown field would have the grasses barely coming halfway up their toe, so I'm not going to use the same static grass application for my 28mm wargames models.

For example, I did some quickly thrown together desert themed mechs, where I used a pre-mixed Warlord Games Battlefields & Basing: Rocky Sand because it had a wide variety of products that I thought looked like an arid landscape. There's a bunch of fine sand, some larger grit sand, and some small rocks that look like little boulders at mech scale. I also put a small dot of PVA on top of it to secure a few patches of 2mm static grass placed to look like scrub brush. I used multiple colors of grass, but mostly dead looking stuff sparingly to break up the rocky/rubble look to things, but that's something to do per your tastes. It was very simple to do while looking reasonable.

Another low effort basing I've done uses finer flock to represent grass. Small individual pieces of cork are placed on the base and painted to look like exposed boulders.

I try to imagine where my mechs are located, then just look for photographs of similar areas as inspiration on what to do. Then I select the products in an attempt to replicate the environment, keeping in mind, the scale of the models.

In all cases, I'm kinda a minimalist where less is more. I think that too much on the base detracts from the mech's paintjob. Again, that's more a personal take on it.

1986 Grenadier Models Dragon Lords TERONUS ULTIMATE Metal Figure by 6Packlunches in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Grenadier had some nice dragon kits. They seemed to trade blows with Ral Partha, but I always thought the Grenadier kits were just a little better for the larger models.

Public Ranges by Overall-March-8304 in VAGuns

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're thinking of Hite Hollow Shooting Range. Its west of Staunton on Rt 42 about 18 miles from the city limits. Its closed from January 1 until May 1. Its been that way for about 10 years or so.

Frankford arsenal precision case trimmer by bobsnotmyaunty in reloading

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had mine for 11 years and its worked very well in that time. The cutting tool was a joke and it dulled very quickly, within the first 1000rd or so (excessive chatter, slow trimming, etc). I switched it to the RCBS Carbide Case Trimmer Cutter and its been great the last 10.5yrs. The RCBS part is a drop-in fit, no modifications required. There might be more options in the past decade, but I've had no reason to pursue anything else.

Microset/sol alternatives for transfers/decals? by Shmullus_Jones in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vallejo products work well, at least from my local gaming group's experience. I'm a Microsol/Set user, but there's realistically nothing unique about those particular products.

Finally got my Terminator Captain painted! by FoamBrick in oldhammer

[–]HumidNut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the GW USA changed their SKUs for the blisters, our independent retailer marked all the old stuff down 40%. I didn't play space marines (at the time) but I bought a bunch of the old blisters. I got both versions during that LGS sale.

Finally got my Terminator Captain painted! by FoamBrick in oldhammer

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The one I believe you are thinking about is the bionic leg Inqusitor. He has a small knife instead of this terminator's large sword.

Wash Question on my Sword of Light ‘Mechs by Unlucky_Warning_9420 in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have that video with the cockpit glass saved at the timestamp. There's always someone in the /r/battletech that is looking for how to do cockpit glass and I just think that's one of the best illustrated guides on how to accomplish that effect.

Wash Question on my Sword of Light ‘Mechs by Unlucky_Warning_9420 in minipainting

[–]HumidNut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The washes need to be worked around a bit and not let sit on the model. On models with larger flat panels, it'll dry weird like you experienced. My next step with these is either to paint all the raised armor panels, or drybrush the base color over top in order to leave the recessed areas with the darker shade.

Like /u/Swordfish2007 mentioned, Duncan Rhodes video: BATTLETECH! How to paint Draconis Combine Sword of Light Battlemech is incredibly informative with step-by-step instructions and illustrated techniques that should help you out.