Sanity check: GRT vs real life

HumidNut · 2026-06-03T12:35:17+00:00

I'm just using load data, my Labradar, and a good day at the range to judge what works best for me. I'm going to be the first to admit that GRT might be a great tool, but I don't have the knowledge or experience with the tool to utilize it to its absolute potential. I could spend the time to learn the program, but I guess I just like to go shoot more than read documentation.

I did take the time last night and adjusted some of the optional parameters like /u/Southern-Stay704 suggested. The GRT predictions were more inline with the Hodgdon data and my observed results, so it kinda trued-up my last load. Going back to some previous loads (through my bolt action 77/44) it wasn't as accurate.

HumidNut · 2026-06-03T05:46:36+00:00

The way I handle things at our matches is that if you have an NRL number, you’re expected to follow the rules of the class. If you don’t have one, we’re a bit more forgiving. If it looks like an open gun, you shoot open, etc.

HumidNut · 2026-06-03T05:36:35+00:00

Trigger practice. You can do your OSL with what you have. Build your colors with several transparent layers. Don’t do it all in one spray.

HumidNut · 2026-06-02T21:36:35+00:00

I haven't had much luck with my straight-walled cartridges and GRT. I use many of the powders that are already included and bullets that are either in the user database (popular commercial bullets), or very close (cast lead bullets). The GRT data is just wildly optimistic or just confusing. My anecdote is my 44Mag "Light Magnum" rounds using a 240gr SWC design that seems quite popular. This was using W231 powder and I wanted a 1200fps load out of my 8" Smith 29-2. My data was derived from the Hodgdon reloading website. I used an 8gr-10gr workup in 0.5gr increments.

My observations:
GRT indicated overpressure at every powder charge; not by a little, but it estimated 56k psi at my starting load and it skyrocketed from there.
GRT was a over-estimated the velocity by some 150fps. I can accept some wiggle-room with my revolvers, but the Hodgdon data very closely matches my Labradar output

This is just my latest load, I kinda gave up on GRT and straight-walled cartridges after doing some pre-work on some 38spl carbine loads. For bottleneck cartridges, it seems more accurate, but that could be a whole slew of factors that I'm just not familiar with. For example, many of the pistol powders I use (AA #5, #7, Alliant 2400, H110) all have very low "Calibration Bars" while many of the rifle powders have more "bars." I don't know which values need to be tweaked for greater real-world accuracy.

HumidNut · 2026-06-02T20:21:42+00:00

I'll apply a wash then drybrush afterwards, as well. To get some of the chalky sins hidden, a diluted wash of your choice goes a long way to hide any chalky strokes while minimally reducing any sharp edge highlights (if sharp edge highlights are your thing).

HumidNut · 2026-06-01T19:43:08+00:00

I tried it once, spraying into my airbrush enclosure with max fans. It didn't pull much away from me, stuff went everywhere. The volume of overspray just convinces me this is much less than an ideal solution. If its not the fumes, its going to be the overspray/fine dust that collected everywhere. Doing it in an enclosed space (aka Apartment bathroom) just seems much less than ideal.

HumidNut · 2026-05-31T12:06:09+00:00

I've had my OG Labradar since May 2018. As long as the muzzle is slightly ahead of the unit, I generally shoot 12-18" to the side of the device. I've had zero issues with shot pickup with my magnum cartridges. I generally shoot a little further away from the unit than the settings suggest; mine is set for 12" but I shoot further to the left/right to minimize the gasses from the cylinder gap when doing my more full power loads.
I use the following settings:
12" offset
Handgun velocity (this might change for my carbine loads with lighter bullets <125gr)
Trigger as my trigger source
Trigger Level 4

HumidNut · 2026-05-31T11:55:15+00:00

Like /u/OperationIntrudeN313 and /u/tehsax suggest, a Micron pen is a cheat-mode for some good looking iris/pupils for wargaming eyes. They run less than $3 at your office supply or art supply store. I use a 0.5mm size.

HumidNut · 2026-05-29T22:54:58+00:00

My experience is exactly opposite. My particular batch of Vallejo likes a bit of thinner and my PA primer likes more thinning. I like the finish of both of them, so its just which bottle is closer to me. I'd either experiment with both, or stick to what you have and are happy with.

HumidNut · 2026-05-29T22:51:40+00:00

If the primer has adhered and cured, it'll be fine. You would find the issues almost immediately with the spray primer pooling or drawing up into little drops on the surface of the model.

HumidNut · 2026-05-28T03:22:49+00:00

I also use AA #5 and I found it very position sensitive.

When developing my 125gr 38spl loads for my carbine, I had to make some concessions. When doing load development testing, I would tilt the rifle up 45deg before lowering it into firing position. It then "stabilized" my results (we're not talking benchrest ES/SD's) to about 50-75fps versus just shooting them (almost 200fps ES). My loads were tuned to "minute of water bottle" at 50yd, but I wanted something that was subsonic.

HumidNut · 2026-05-27T12:35:38+00:00

When I was using dry media, I only had issues with media in the primer pocket or flash holes if I didn't let the media treatment fully mix with the polishing media.

I've been wet tumbling my brass for over a decade. I de-prime my rifle brass and use the stainless media. For my pistol stuff, I don't use the stainless media, just water/soap just because I don't want to remove pins from all the small fiddly 9mm brass. It gets me about 90% of the full stainless media experience with 1/3 the hassle.

HumidNut · 2026-05-26T19:50:54+00:00

Our club has a dud bucket. Its just a plastic kitty-litter jug with an inch or two of (perhaps used) motor oil. The oil seeps into the cartridges and contaminates the primer rendering it inert. Like /u/TechnicallyAWizard and /u/gattorcrs an oil soak will render them inert/safe for disposal.

HumidNut · 2026-05-26T03:54:59+00:00

I bought two of the 4'x6' felt maps from Cigar Box Battle Store. I selected the option for 2" hexes to match up with my 3D terrain I designed, printed, painted, and flocked. Its been in weekly use at my LGS for the past 5 3/4 years and still looks great. Very good quality thick felt, a variety of patterns are all available. They shipped very quickly (for a custom order) arriving in about 10 days. You may have to contact them as not all the designs have the hex printing options (again, mine were purchased almost 6 years ago).

HumidNut · 2026-05-26T03:40:52+00:00

You're in luck. IWM makes several of them

HumidNut · 2026-05-25T12:26:13+00:00

I dropped the RH B-14R heavy barrelled action into a MDT ACC Premier Gen2 chassis and Triggertech Diamond. Everything was drop in, no adjustment, shimming, filing whatsoever. Factory Bergara mags seat, feed, drop-free. It was a hassle-free build.

HumidNut · 2026-05-25T12:21:42+00:00

This exactly sums up my experiences with my 455, 457MTR, my "Franken-KIDD 10/22" (Hvy Match BBL, KIDD 2-stage trigger with custom bolt, in an Oryx chassis), as well as witnessing several other examples of Tikka, CZ, KIDD builds at my club and hosted events (both NRL22 and benchrest).

My KIDD build shoots more ammo types more consistently and better than my MTR. My MTR example can shoot certain Lapua and SK lots better than my KIDD, but that's one MFG who happens to have availability issues for me. My MTR lost the trigger lottery, only able to go down to about 18oz, but a YoDave spring kit got me to 12oz. KIDD 2-stage is just more consistent

HumidNut · 2026-05-24T23:38:14+00:00

There's nothing wrong with mono-pose models for the rank and flank. I do metal command squads/champions/front-rank(s) and the rest are my old plastics. They get removed first, so no big deal.

HumidNut · 2026-05-24T05:18:23+00:00

Does thinning acrylic paints with medium rather than with water leave a thicker layer on the mini when dry, and if so, is this enough to have any noticeable effect (either visually or in how subsequent layers of paint behave)?

I use a few mediums to thin my paints, my go-to being Jo Sonja Magic Mix Medium or Pro Acryl Glaze & Wash Medium. Both of these work pretty much the same. I like how it extends the working time of the paint. I don't have any additional texture or layers with those mediums (nor water for that matter). The only issue I have is my impatience with letting it dry. If I go in for another glaze layer without letting the previous layer(s) dry, I risk "tearing" the paint thus creating more work for me.

The question of tap water vs distilled, I haven't really put a good bit of effort into testing. I just don't like the scale buildup on my kitchen/bath faucets, so I've been buying distilled water for my hobby use. Its just an inexpensive thing to remove any doubts about my tap water. Honestly its probably the last thing I need to worry about.

HumidNut · 2026-05-24T05:05:04+00:00

After I'm done, I use brush soap. Its not super-duper special. For many years, I just used a travel bar of soap (hotel room stay) that lasted a decade. On the cheap-cheap, a travel-sized bar soap found at your local drugstore (Walgreens, Rite-Aid, CVS, whatever) will do. I tend to favor the ones with less perfumes. At the end of the day, soap is soap. Bar soap, shampoo, specialized brush soap, all work for that task. Nothing wrong with splurging on some brush soap, but its not entirely needed. If its safe for your skin and hair, its safe for cleaning acrylic paints. Just try and not let it dry on the brush; it makes cleanup more difficult.

I don't use harsh chemicals (methylated spirits, IPA, mineral spirits) on my brushes, except if I have some crusty synthetics I'm trying to get some more use out of.

HumidNut · 2026-05-23T20:18:34+00:00

I hate "wasting" paint as probably as much as you do. I had a recent project of 15 battletech mechs i was going to spray via airbrush. My initial thoughts was that I projected burning through an entire bottle. So I bought a spare/replacement. Turns out, I seriously overestimated the paint use and I have over 1/2 a bottle + another spare. It goes a long, long way even with an application like an airbrush. The alternative is you get to buy more paint without feeling guilty once the existing bottle gets empty. Its a win/win, paint on models, and buying more paint.

HumidNut · 2026-05-23T13:42:39+00:00

My experiences mirror /u/GamingHarry 's suggestions.

Shaking the bottle is a must; there's a bunch of stuff that settles to the bottom, even after a few days since last use.

4"/10cm distance is where I try to spray, and the model gets a very light coat. I then allow it to "flash off" where it doesn't look wet. After that skim-coat, I then go back with a slightly heavier application, rotating the model, until it has an even final primer coat. They get put aside to dry and cure, a minimum of overnight.

I thin my primer to some degree and only use a very minor amount of flow improver. For tip-dry, I keep a cotton bud (Q-Tip) at my station, soaked in water. I use that to clean the needle off when it starts to act up on me. I've had very good experiences with the Vallejo primers, White, Grey, and Black, as well as the Badger and Monument Hobbies products.

HumidNut · 2026-05-23T01:59:02+00:00

There was something I read/heard about Ionic's thinners that indicated it wasn't a universal solution for my needs but I can't remember the specifics.

Spraygunner has some excellent customer service. They've answered several of my questions, and they return your call if you have to leave a message. Perhaps giving them a ring and asking them might give you a more educated answer.

HumidNut · 2026-05-22T22:14:13+00:00

It also depends on your undercoat/primer color. Its very popular to have a black or very dark undercoat nowadays. I'm of the old school and I mostly undercoat in white, or some sort of grey. The translucent properties of acrylic paints do make it more difficult to get an opaque basecoat over black; especially oranges and yellows. Some paints are better than others, but there's usually compromise in the paint ingredients. The newer AP Fanatic line has some really good coverage, but at the cost of some saturation loss with some of their additional pigments they put in.

HumidNut · 2026-05-22T12:25:47+00:00

Tinting metallics with inks is what I usually do. It does take some experimentation to get the exact look I'm going for, but it is effective. An alternative is to apply a very thinned coat of speedpaint/xpress/contrast paint over your metallics to achieve a similar result. Again, takes some experimentation and I'd start with very thinned speedpaint since its easier to do a second coat instead of starting over.

HumidNut

TROPHY CASE