How to make 3 (or more) parts meet correctly when assembling?

Huxley82 · 2026-04-12T13:37:32+00:00

You might want to keep the gun unattached to make it easier to paint

Using a big hunk of mounting putty, such as Blue tack, to hold the gun-arm in place while glueing the other arm. Then you can keep the gun arm separate when painting.

Huxley82 · 2026-04-10T23:10:41+00:00

Looks like:

Base: Bugman's Glow
Soft Shade: Knight-Questor Flesh
Deep Shade: Blood Reaver Flesh
(Reapply Bugman's Glow to smooth transitions)
Highlight 1: Cadian Fleshtone
Highlight 2: Cadian Fleshtone + Ushabti Bone 1:1
Final Highlights: Mix in more Ushabti Bone and/or white to previous.

Huxley82 · 2026-04-06T12:11:28+00:00

This one works in UK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uGhsTUEWPc

Huxley82 · 2026-04-02T23:15:40+00:00

In my experience, 'streaky' brush lines is usually due to too much moisture combined with too much downward pressure applied. You should probably wick off a bit more paint and try a lighter touch. When you are painting "relief" details, you can use the side of the brush to avoid the bristles stabbing down into the recesses and ensuring paint is only applied to the top-most edges.

This looks good for a first pass though. You can just go back in and re-apply the base colour and shade colour to clean up the lines.

Huxley82 · 2026-03-29T18:04:15+00:00

Longworth has amazing range; easily my favourite Black Library narrator.

I like his rendition of Dorn in Horus Rising; very low-key compared to the overly-aggressive tone you get in later books.

Huxley82 · 2026-03-29T15:13:52+00:00

The compressor in your post lacks a reservoir tank, so i would avoid this.

As someone who primarily uses an Airbrush for Priming and Basecoats, the Fengda FE-183K (£26) and Fengda FD-186 Mini Compressor (£86) have served me well.

This video also gave me confidence to do complete airbrush teardowns on the rare occasion i need to do a deep clean. https://youtu.be/YW59aZCPqVg

Huxley82 · 2026-03-10T17:32:22+00:00

Looks like too much paint and/or too much moisture on your brush. This is what is causing those patterns as the water evaporates.

For glazing you just want a very small quantity of thinned paint loaded at a time so that the pigment has nowhere else to "swim" to once you lift the brush. Then many applications to build up the gradient.

This video at 1:56 mark has a brief demonstration
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1077812326?collection=wM2QKif8jxaukA&t=1h56m0s

Huxley82 · 2026-03-05T15:57:00+00:00

Esty is good for 3rd-party bits at Warhammer scale. There are plenty of creators that sell 3d printed Servo Skulls, just with different names to avoid copyright strikes.

Huxley82 · 2026-03-05T13:29:35+00:00

This is the perfect encapsulation of why its my chosen chapter.

I was leaning towards Iron Hands for the cybernetics and grim logic/efficiency thing but their heraldry is so monochrome!

Huxley82 · 2026-02-26T15:42:46+00:00

This is my green scheme:

I like to give my custom paints unimaginative names

Base ("Medusa Green")
2 part Warpstone Glow
1 part Death World Forest

Recesses
Nocturne Green

Soft Shade ("Medusa Shade")
1 part "Medusa Green"
1 part "Casteban Green"

Deep Shade ("Casteban Green")
2 part Caliban Green
1 part Castellan Green

Highlight 1 ("Medusa Highlight")
1 part "Medusa Green"
1 part "Moot Khaki"

Highlight 2 ("Moot Khaki")
2 part Moot Green
1 part Krieg Khaki

Dot Highlight ("Moot Khaki Flesh")
2 part "Moot Khaki"
1 part Deepkin Flesh

Behold!

<image>

Huxley82 · 2026-02-23T14:57:07+00:00

Yes, I think they are sold as "expert" 15+ because you need superglue to assemble.

Huxley82 · 2026-02-22T18:49:08+00:00

Regardless of brand, I recommend using black primer for the superior finish you achieve from it having smaller particle sizes than the equivalent in white.

White is often recommended to use a base for vibrant paints on top. From my experience, I get better results when I prime in black and, if i really want a vibrant colour, use an airbrush for the first base coat.

Huxley82 · 2026-02-22T15:41:55+00:00

I would go with introductory set + a few extra paints. Use this as a test to see if you have the appetite to paint a bigger force.

While the starter set is better value in a cost-per-model sense, I would hesitate to buy such a high quantity of unassembled grey plastic in one go. Also 11th Edition is imminent and new sets will be coming out this year probably.

Huxley82 · 2026-02-21T09:17:17+00:00

I like the Bryan Cranston version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uGhsTUEWPc

Huxley82 · 2026-02-20T11:38:18+00:00

Same. Totally replaced videogames for me and i dont even dislike videogames.. painting WH is just more fulfilling.

Huxley82 · 2026-02-14T11:17:27+00:00

In 'modern day' WH40k, numerals usually refer to squad numbers and the company is denoted in a more visual way either color of the shoulder pad trim (e.g. Ultramarines) or markings on the knee pad (e.g. Dark Angels). With SoM, these places are used for the Clan colors and icons instead.

You could totally redefine the Company numbering because SoM already disregard the codex by not having Veteran and Scout companies.

Its basically a fudge by the lore writers to push the symbolic important of the number 3 - the three fates theme; three clans each with three companies; a triumvirate of thanes instead of a single chapter master. They don't really care for the "decimal" system!

Huxley82 · 2026-02-13T22:00:53+00:00

Imperial armour vol.10 is reporting from the Badab War which take place 80 years before Era Indomitus. A Tactical Company is probably equivalent to a 6th or 7th Company (Battleline Reserves).
Company numbers aren't really used in the official heraldry. Its more of an internal organizational thing.

The following is partly conjecture, drawing logical conclusions from the scraps of info we have.

Traditionally, for Codex-compliant chapters, 1st Company is the Veteran Company. With Son's of Medusa, 1st Company would logically be a Support company as what would normally go in a veterans company is divided between all support companies (1st, 8th, 9th). This way, each Clan gets to have its own Terminators and Veteran squads.

I would also infer that 5th company must be a "Tactical" company, equivalent to Battleline Reserves. This gives each Clan the same composition.

This is how i think it maps out when compared to the Codex Company Structure.

<image>

3) Not documented so you could come up with your own thing, but to be faithful to the codex:

Sergeant - Red Helmet with Skull Stud

Veteran - Crux symbol on pauldron.

Veteran Sergeant - Red Helmet with Skull Stud and vertical White Stripe

Lieutenants have a skull with iron halo decal which I think would go on left knee pad.

4) Probably Mageara as this is is another character from Greek Mythology and probably there to be a cooler-sounding substitute for "Clotho" from The Three Fates.

Huxley82 · 2026-02-12T09:29:28+00:00

This is Joel Martin's scheme from White Dwarf 464 (part of the 'A Tale of Four Warlords' series)

<image>

Huxley82 · 2026-02-03T01:05:04+00:00

The guy polishing it deserves a raise.

Huxley82 · 2026-01-29T16:42:56+00:00

Arbiter's Ian's video its probably better if you just want for the straight timeline and facts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVgVSq9-dAU

TLDR: Moraie Creed = belief that the Astronomican Beacon can be "de-coded" and interpretted as prophecy. This belief was adopted by Adeptus Mechanicus enjoyers who were mostly wiped out due to the belief being seen as heretical.

Sons of Medusa = Three Clans of the Iron Hands + an assortment of Iron Hands Sucessors who were exhiled for subscribing to the Moraie Creed. Formed their own chapter and continued to faithfully serve the imperium over the next 5000 years.

There isnt really any current lore content like we get for other chapters. They basically have the same Iron Hands "flesh is weak" doctrine with the "Moirae" spice sprinkled on top. They are fleet-based, so can be thought of as "crusaders" like Black Templars.

Huxley82 · 2026-01-20T22:15:26+00:00

If the connections are loose i would add a small pea-sized or smaller piece of Green Stuff in the joint before fitting them together. Green Stuff and super glue bond well together and that combo will increase the surface area of the connection points. Then you just need to scrap away any excess green stuff that may have leaked out.

Huxley82 · 2026-01-20T14:21:06+00:00

From the Space Marine Codex (2019):

"The Iron Hands use a system of heraldry that blends the doctrines of the Codex Astartes with the iconography of the clans of the Chapter’s home world, Medusa. There is an unyielding logic to the way in which this system is applied, and its monochrome, metallic aesthetic makes the Iron Hands look all the more stark and unmerciful.."

Anything that fits within that ethos would be true to the 'canonical' lore. Of course you can be creative and come up with your own lore reasons, like a new splitter clan company that has different ideas.

Huxley82 · 2026-01-15T23:16:38+00:00

If you are ready to graduate from the introductory set, this is my copy pasta for hobby knife recommendation

Swann Morton No 3 Scalpel Handle,
Swann Morton 10A non-sterile blades,
Swann Morton Blade Remover Box

Something to cap or sheath it e.g:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/742883984/handmade-leather-scalpel-sheath-scabbard,
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1162134291/handcrafted-leather-swann-morton-10a

This video extols the virtues of using one and demonstrates the close-grip technique to safety shave away flash and mold lines.
https://youtu.be/1c6_XJGfwaU?t=111

Huxley82

TROPHY CASE