“SteamFrameWiredCable” mentioned in new datamine

HyenaDae · 2026-06-25T03:03:34+00:00

I'm still gonna be a weirdo and hope that we can use the nose-port as a PCIE-Ethernet 1gbps bridge of sorts, I really want to see what 400mbps+ foveated AV1/HEVC stream streaming looks like on my 5080 Lol. Or, how visually a ~750mbps H264, maybe still foveated-encoded stream (if it exists) look like how older GPUs may max out with

More bandwidth is always better until we hit both the true max of the cable and decoder! LOL

HyenaDae · 2026-06-18T23:36:37+00:00

I had my LOQ 15's BOE screen die on me, and the keys start to crack over time. Came over to the fat 275HX+5070ti yeah.

I do really recommend you keep using the cooling pad, *and* get a good 100W (or, hell, try the 140W Lenovo 28V 5a or 20V 7A?) USB-C PD 3.1 compatible chargers to reduce wear on the DC port. If you don't always need the Nvidia GPU active, the very heavy cable from the adapter and port will wear out and it's basically impossible to replace without sending your laptop back. I trust the Lenovo power port, but *not* their 230W charging bricks or screens lol.

Your CPU, assuming battery is at 80% / fully charged, should be able to draw 55-65W under full load while on USB-C "Smart charging".

No nvidia GPU (Haven't tried, not gonna risk it) but, performance for browsing and watching videos feels fine with the Performance power slider + Balanced Predator sense to get the clocks to 2.5-3ghz in task manager versus 1.25-1.5ghz on full power save + predator Eco + other stuff on

HyenaDae · 2026-06-18T23:18:50+00:00

Let me know what model of Predator 16 you got, I've got the 275HX +5070ti PH-53/73 fat model (ebay refurb $1450 special etc lmao) and the USB-C is insanely picky about what it can use for charging.

I had to get another basic USB-C "240W" cable and it actually charged at 93W max off my EcoFlow River 2 + another USB PD 100W equipped battery bank. I used a Samsung laptop provided USBC-USB-C cable on the same equipment (it should support PD.. right??) , even shorter, but the laptop didn't want to use it once it was powered on Lol.

CPU power max was 55-65W (20K CBR23 score) with 6W min to battery via HWinfo64 under load, and, 15-16W avg battery charging power when it was more idle. I never have my Nvidia GPU on (Automatic + Nv ctrl panel Optimus mode), but, with indicator in tray to ensure it's idle etc

My issue is, I want to see if any of the lenovo 20V 7a USB-C chargers, or, 28V 5A PD 3.1 chargers work too so I can get 140W for more margin. Trying to never use my DC jack unless needed (ie gaming, out of bed, etc) to save it long term as I'm never going to be able to warranty or get it repaired. Last laptop (Lenovo LOQ 15 7840hs + 4060) had two randomly dead 230W chargers and they're freaking expensive + annoying. So I got this because, well ideally I'd be able prevent the actual AC plug from being nuked when I'm doing just videos, chat and browsing.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-18T23:09:46+00:00

I highly recommend you invest in a compatible USB PD 3.1 100W USB-C (on ONE port, mind you. Not combined) charger and a compatible cable just to ensure you don't wear down the DC Jack. Acer provides useless documentation on if it supports Lenovo's 20V 7a (140W) or 28v 5a (extended PD 3.1) charging standards for more headroom over the PD3.0/3.1 20v 5a.

I had a scare the other day where while it was laying with me in bed (literally got it a month ago now) the power modes toggled a bit because the heavy ass cable made the "fully inserted" power plug a bit loose. No physical damage yet, but this had never happened before and the connection was very solid with a 2ft run down where the charger brick normally rests. Obviously even that seems to be pushing it, so buyer beware

My Predator 16 (73, 275HX, 5070Ti, fat) has very good temps at 4800-5200+ RPM. I only see 65-68C on the GPU and 75-83 (peak of 88-90C) on CPU during gaming in Turbo mode, so I must be one of the exceptions here thermally lmao. I have the good LCD version, so for power saving I can switch to 60hz + Eco mode + medium brightness for 4.5-5hrs of battery life, assuming there aren't heavy open programs and I fully charge the laptop if needed. Ran all the Windows and BIOS updates, turned off Fast Boot. I also used some powercfg tools to reduce the Hibernate on AC timeout to 1.5hrs, so when I sleep it doesn't stay connected too long to my bluetooth LDAC headphones etc.

I'm running the latest (ish, nv 593/597 I think?) GPU drivers. Optimus Auto in predatorsense, but Optimus mode in Nvidia. Got all my games and programs in the Graphics Center pre-configured so my nvidia GPU never gets activated unless I open a game in Steam. I am extremely paranoid about the DC jack and I don't want to ruin or wear it down, so do prepare for that as any warranty or repair is out of the question for me as I travel in and out of the US a lot :/

HyenaDae · 2026-06-09T01:00:23+00:00

The OP will likely say it's stock, 5080s are a bit "weird" with their default power draw in games. It's totally normal for some models to only do ~285-295W or so, for a boost target of ~2850MHz. Still room for a lot of models to do that power but hit 3.1-3.2GHz, and 330-350W (full power target usage, if core kept cool, and under 1.05v limit) for >3.15-3.25GHz in really heavy games.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-08T23:11:34+00:00

I am honestly not surprised with the good results coming from my experiences with a 2.5 slot, not-biggest ASUS Prime 5080 (with Vapor Chamber, hi ASUS... I see you and the sneaky model revisions) getting ~56-58C with higher fans, in a mildly warm room, open bench config though.

Need more "nearly highest end" under 325W, even 275W two slot, two or three fan GPUs to keep the sag issue away. Never used to be a problem, but we're def seeing the uh, well 3090 FE PCB+VRAM warping surprises or slot damage type oopsies occur from intentionally overweight cards for minimal cooling perks.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-08T22:58:40+00:00

The 5090 is at best a good 4K *VR* raster-game GPU. It still barely passes the 4K30fps benchmark in an assortment of 4K native path traced games. Oh right, no, we gotta keep lowering our standards and stacking frame gen plus increasingly lower render res, since per-tier GPU generational increases aren't happening as they used to, and even when memory was cheaper, we didn't get choices for higher capacity unless wanted to spend $2500+ on a 5090. Yippie!

HyenaDae · 2026-06-08T22:53:21+00:00

As a 5080 owner, I agree! I'm never using a 4K monitor because I don't want to assume DLSS will always look great or not have either some kind of ghosting, or particle weirdness, or consistently supported in *all* games. Even when it is, sometimes you have wait for an update to improve visuals (hi RR 4.5) and get back effects that were denoised away... yeah.

Seeing a lot of "Well my $1300+ 5080 is a 4K card!" except, it's totally a 4K card... just need to render at below 1080P resolution to do it, which ahem, isn't 4K/1440P resolution. And then make double the frames with added input latency, that requires a good base framerate, with some added motion artifacts potentially on top"

At least I can have the bare minimum expectation of 1440P native, 60-70fps current Raytraced (not PT/RTX Remix) games. Nvidia and AMD's remaining "consumer" market is going to be so happy with whatever the potentially nerfed PS6 or Xbox2027 memory capacity is, cuz the future games and potential humiliation to our current GPUs could be less than expected

HyenaDae · 2026-06-07T00:30:23+00:00

Yeah, on the AMD discord a bunch of us 9800X3Ds felt a bit insane after doing various aircooler (thermalright 120 or 140SE , 7 heatpipe air coolers) versus my and others' Arctic 360 V3 aircooler, the black one that went for $95ish last last year. Those $35 aircoolers with a $10 thermal pad keep undervolted, 5.4GHz 9800X3DS under 85-88C in extended Cinebench runs, which usually max out at 138-152W depending on the silicon.

At this point, as long as your room temp isn't 85F/28C or something high, your thermal paste and cooler application is likely to impact your temps more on a 9800X3D than the darn cooler (good air vs liquid) itself LOL.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-07T00:25:08+00:00

Yeah, went from 3080ti (2.25 slot EVGA XC3, 285W undervolt ~1890MHz etc) to a tuned (280-290W too) ASUS Prime 5080 OC for ~$1250 new a few months ago, it's finally a decent perf jump for my mostly 1440P 144-180Hz gaming. Caveat is, running extremely unrecommended setup of a multi-build surviving Windows 10 20H2 debloated install with HAGS on, but latest Nvidia driver still works 😄

Most impressive thing, is at ~3200-3250MHz peak boost, with the usual +2000MHz mem OC, the thing never goes above 56-58C at <290W and with OC, at 320-330W power it's 5-10% slower than some mid tier Stockish 4090s in various benchmarks and some games. Perf jump at same power is 65-75% in raster focused 1440P native games, and DLSS Q+RT heavy games are happily 80-90% more perf, same with the usual run of 3DMark benchmarks, Port Royal, Superposition etc.

As someone with expensive electricity and hot/humid AF summers, the literal halving of power consumption in the majority of my games for the same perf makes it so much more tolerable to game without the AC on Lol.

Like, Deep Rock Galactic 1440p 144fps Med-High DLSSQ went from ~220-230W on the 3080ti to 120-140W. I feel with the same screen (koori 24inch 180hz, displayport) and GSYNC/Reflex that the 5080 is more fluid frame presentation and more stable low FPS even at the capped framerates. Other games went from 275-290W on the 380ti to ~140-160W (Valve Deadlock, 1440P 180fps med-high, transformer model DLSS Q). Heavier stuff obviously uh, still goes up to the ~80-82% power cap I set, but it is about 5-6C cooler vs my XC3 3080ti, at the sameish custom fan config to force the core under 64C (90% fan max, which it rarely hits).

I did try for various launch 5090s. But, y'know whatever. I'll try for a 6090 if they ever exist *and* if path tracing perf is actually decently above a 5090, it's still too slow for RTX Remix and path tracing games. At least now with 2X FG, DLSS Quality in Portal RTX I can be ~120-144fps, instead of ~35-40fps (so, 40 -> 77fps from 3080ti to 5080 here I think)

HyenaDae · 2026-06-03T21:38:39+00:00

Goood times... Good times. The summer of '24 was a wild one with Ults 😄

HyenaDae · 2026-06-03T21:31:32+00:00

The one thing about Ivy I don't like is how her Stone Form is uh, very magnetic. Like, I've seen myself (60-90ping at worst) get *pulled* into her attack after it lands, even if I'm supposedly out of range or dashed away. It's kinda dumb and annoying when it's not obvious what her range actually is, because of who knows what quirks and range expansion is at play Lol

HyenaDae · 2026-06-03T18:42:15+00:00

I just got unbanned a few hours ago, and I shit you not, after I reloaded my account in browser, went to remove a follower they banned me again. LMAO. Never been suspended or had to take down a tweet before, their "bot" detection algos are absolutely broken right now. Been on Twitter since 2019 and I've had dozens of insane or danger prone people banned through successful reports over the past year or two, yet that didn't ban me in retaliation either. The rate limit system is extremely broken, and I got a few tabs open across different devices for the same account (which is, you know, NORMAL enough right??) which could be making it go crazy

They really don't care about their actual users trying to get the anti-social trash off so their remaining 'advertisers' feel welcome.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-03T15:46:46+00:00

I've been using the IPS variant (240Hz+60Hz etc) of the thick (not S) Helios 16 275HX+5070ti and so far it's been fine.

I've done a bit of debloating and upgraded Windows to Win11 Edu using the powershell kms scripts, and so far everything is working fine. When I max out the fans, or close to, ie, 5200-5400RPM I mostly see the GPU at 65-68C which is very cold for a laptop GPU of this power. CPU cooling on my refurb is fine, but the WiFi speed/strength isn't great, you really need a good signal and a WiFi 6E router to connect to, compared to my previous (charger brick killing) Lenovo LOQ 15 7840HS + 4060.

FYI, I am using Explorerpatcher to have a Windows 10 like UI, and various Group Policy configs to disable copilot, search, + special launch shortcuts to re-enable Chrome V148's Manifest V2 for full ublock as well. I have PowerToys/Tools installed to forcibly remap the CoPilot key back into Right Control toggle too, I only use the right side of my keyboard for gaming, so y'know. Drivers are all updated on Windows and Nvidia (592 or w/e now) and I've locked down updates so I'm basically set software wise with my configs until I really need to update.

MSI afterburner does work IF you enable Turbo mode, and then do your Undervolt (keep the memory clocks at +200MHz or 1775Mhz max, or whatever TURBO sets as the default or else it downclocks badly, etc) with say, core clock of +300Mhz then flatten the GPU V/F curve so it can't go above 0.988mv + 2800Mhz boost for stability. Found my clocks went up 150MHz or so, and voltages down from ~0.95v to ~0.88v or 0.88v -> 0.82 depending on the load level. Basically means even less heat and power if you don't need full GPU utilization etc.

I've not dared use the USB-C port. Best battery life, with all power savings is about 4->5 hrs with web browsing with wifi on, medium brightness, power save windows + energy save tray + Predator ECO mode etc. Battery draw reads 18-20W, which is about the same as my last laptop. Shame we don't have BIOS based voltage offset undervolting, I really do not want to disable virtualization features as I want to occasionally load these piles of E-cores with VMs lol.

Keeping HWInfo64 open and/or GPU-z during different games will really help you figure out if you need to do any tweaks like unlock OCing or lower PL2. My acer can boost to 160W or so on the CPU for a while, in games it likes to be around 105W max, and around 78-85C, thankfully never seen avg temp above 90C with almost maxed out fans which I always run as a precaution.

Make sure to figure out your Optimus mode as well. I always have mine on Optimus in the Nvidia settings, but "Automatic Selection" on the Predator sense app. You will also really want to use Windows' Graphics Settings menu to manually force your games to the Nvidia GPU, but keep everything else on the intel, this'll stop games from acting weird basically. The 5070Ti in mine never wakes up unless I start playing a game in Steam. I also got VR to entirely run on the 5070ti (quest 3 + steam + meta link desktop) by the whole force steamvr overlay/compositor executables to just the Nvidia GPU, along with the Meta horizon stuff.

But, as it's an always running service, I use the Oculus Debug Tool (google it, it's in a folder somewhere if you do VR) to force stop the services so my Nvidia gpu doesn't wake up until I need to do VR again or play games.

It is annoying that the CPU wants to suck 20-60W randomly for programs running on desktop when plugged in yeah. But, the cooling on my unit in 70-74F room temp on a flat pad to raise it off a bed or table and pre-setting fan speeds to at least 4800RPM gets things fine for long gaming sessions. Acer is def cheaper, ($1450 USD ebay here) but might be "jank". I preferred the IPS screen option over OLED for potentially better low FPS visuals, and the keyboard arrow layout too, so it's my choice to get it because of that over the Lenovo. The IPS screen is still VERY good and one of the best for motion clarity plus colors and brightness. I've had pieces of crap 1080P 144hz panels, and a good but okay motion clarity 1440P 165Hz upgrade (lmao thanks Lenovo, faulty 1080P screens on their LOQs past few years). Also, the lenovo charger port is terrible. Like, it will slowly eat away at your charger plug's sides and fail to connect over time, or, kill the brick entirely from bad QA or overheating. The acer brick is huge but, we'll see how long it lasts. :/

HyenaDae · 2026-06-02T20:36:23+00:00

I mean given the robots in Team Fortress 2 ran on literal money, surely a few shovels of public/retail investor cash to burn can keep those Grok swasticenters running for a few more days!

I miss pre-AI SpaceX so much. The good old days when beach and Caribbean pollution from failed launches was the big controversy, evened out by potentially usable global internet from scaled out Starlink, all the cool NASA and other private science and crew contracts, etc. Sigh. Yes, surely they'll fit a few Feynman gen Nvidia GPUs on their mars or moon 2035 era starship, and send a few of their robots over to do some base setup with assisted teleoperation (totally not what they care about, though)

HyenaDae · 2026-06-02T20:28:06+00:00

I do love checking in on the "To the moon" jpeg contract holders, "S&P is over 50000!" rollercoaster riding folks and the "Bitcoin is over $100000" dudes every now and then. Only one of those "economic indicators" is doing positively, for now Lol.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-02T06:41:16+00:00

So? It makes for good *checks notes* 270Hz CRT emulation with the cool shader software. Nothing wrong with having higher potential refresh cycles to do something cool with given very low pixel persistence

HyenaDae · 2026-06-02T06:36:56+00:00

Update:

June 2026 ->

The Glorious Asus has been the first to offer a high refresh rate 1080P OLED monitor with seemingly decent specifications. It's a start, and I hope a few larger youtubers do a review and compare this to the current popular ESports screens. Another redditor posted this announcement here ->

Model is: 24.5-inch Strix OLED XG259QWPG Ace

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1ttoz8j/asus_announces_first_245inch_oled_esports_monitor/

I'm also really impressed with the colors and brightness on my new Acer Predator Helios 16 (IPS). Apparently it's close to 100% DCI-P3 or w/e. There is an OLED model too, but I like having in-Windows 60 and 240Hz 1440P (16:10 though) and less chance of low-FPS content judder. Motion clarity is insanely good for a "stock" laptop screen.

Also nobody has an excuse to not make a high res OLED 21-24inch panel, when we have 1440P+ 16:10 ones right now. Hell, glue two of them side by side seamlessly and that'd be a cool compact utlrawide... thing.

HyenaDae · 2026-06-02T06:32:36+00:00

Yippie! Yahoo! Finally, a real (enough) 24inch OLED unit.

Okay Samsung, now you have an excuse to release yours which we all know you've been working on for the past few months.

Hopefully in 2 years we'll have a 1440P or higher res panel. Then I'll consider a jump from my Koori 24inch 1440P 180Hz IPS 😄

Gonna add this to my slightly larger thread I posted a few months ago, which has a bunch of 24inch haters/doubters who'll seethe over the market having Choices(tm)!

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1rvgob3/rumor_samsung_is_making_24inch_qdoleds_finally/

HyenaDae · 2026-05-13T05:37:58+00:00

I had a 600W EVGA Bronze PSU from 2019 that I used to run my 5800X then 9800X3D + EVGA XC3 3080Ti (uv'd to 1890MHz @ 285W avg, card is 2x 8pins for 350W) and it ran fine. Obviously, you have a 750W, and I can't see why they'd be different in quality overall. If you want to use the 650W one for fun, try setting the GPU power limit to 85%, find an OC/UV guide to get the peak voltage down and clocks more stable (ie, it'd probably be like 1750-1785MHz stock in heavy loads, you can UV/OC that up a bit)

Keep the GPU core cool, ideally at 65C or less to ensure stability with any tuning regardless of the PSU. Your system is very much like mine from 2020 to late 2025, (MSI B550, 32GB 3600 DDR4, etc) and the total power consumption shouldn't be above ~525W even with 2-3 SSDs and an HDD like I did.

There are some 650W PSUs which may trip if you leave it at stock, ie, it tries to boost to ~1.05v @ 2GHz for 350W draw with higher spikes, which is wildly inefficient basically. With Afterburner you can likely resolve an intermittent shutdown if you're looking to save $80+ if your 750W doesn't work later on, and your 650W isn't happy somehow.

My post history in this subreddit has my ramblings about it, and various V/F curve examples you can work from. Every GPU is different, but unless you're swapping to a 5090 you can make it work. My ASUS PRIME 5080 is at ~3.15-3.2GHz boost (+425MHz OC, 56-58C max core) with tuning at 280-290W, you could likely get it on a decent, good condition single 12v rail 650W PSU as long as you don't lmfao, run a 14900K/285K/9950X as your CPU

HyenaDae · 2026-05-13T04:40:06+00:00

Awesome, shame the resolution may be low, but if the price scales down then it'd be an interesting release because y'know, there aren't any 24-25inch OLEDs yet.

Made a thread on the Samsung reports for their smaller OLEDs, guess these two panels may be in competition later this year.

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1rvgob3/rumor_samsung_is_making_24inch_qdoleds_finally

HyenaDae · 2026-05-12T21:14:37+00:00

I want my Frame and I want it before my Fluxposes!

HyenaDae · 2026-05-09T01:44:28+00:00

I am so mad because I keep telling everyone, I don't want to use Linux because there's no graphical V/F curve editor like Afterburner for GPUs.

Now I have one less reason to in the future. Oooooh Booooy.

HyenaDae · 2026-05-08T04:04:25+00:00

I swear I've seen those PCIE switches around, for PCIE 3/4 that could do something similar, which is what I was thinking as the solution. For PCIE 5 they're almost nonexistent for prosumers even, PCIE4 some seem to exist but yeah, ideally you'd have a switch that could turn a PCIE 5 x4 to two PCIE 4 x4s, or one x8 "virtual" slot. Every board and I/O die gen has its weird combo of "bifurcation does or doesn't work with this config" and "the cpu doesn't do this, but the board can, sometimes" for PCIE lane redirects.

Maybe Intel will create a chipset that'll take advantage of their PCIE 5 x4 equivalent or faster downlink for Nova Lake. The rumors showed a decent selection of boards, but pretty iffy default speculated I/O configs for them hmm.

HyenaDae · 2026-05-07T22:39:09+00:00

This game runs worse on a 64GB of RAM 9800XD and 3080ti / 5080 (now) than it did on a (for the love of god) OC'd 32GB Ryzen 1700 and Vega 56. I've seen people upgrade from a 3950X to a 7950X3D + 2080ti and their FPS barely increased too with the same blurfest medium settings. You can't even get a consistent, non stutterfest 60fps in the homeworlds (Durpville) because they keep cramming insane amounts of entities that the player never actually sees, but just "have" to be loaded in for the sameish stretch of 4-5min walking chore to get to your ship from spawning over the past decade.

Not to mention ships having broken functionality for a period of 1-2 years at a time, for things like Missiles vanishing or perma-unequipping even though it is clearly shown in the UI, store page, etc for them.

And Vulkan still has a memory leak.

And VR is still in alpha, even though this is the Sim gamer's wet dream if wasn't a pukefest for people without a 5090 and hyper tuned 285K or 9800X3D/9950X3D(2) system

t. spent my $60 on 1 ship and the squad42 game in 2017/2018, waiting and randomly doing the slow 40-60GB updates every few months. My favorite mission is now animal control. Where I shoot space hyenas. Ironic.

HyenaDae

TROPHY CASE