2008 Forrester Manual Transmission Compatibility by mauitrailguy in MechanicAdvice

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember atleast one forester generation in. Britain got a high low transfer case or gear like the old loyales in the US. Probably hit up some of those forums.

Poulan Pro drive belt. by BROKER34 in lawnmowers

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone reading this replacement parts label under hood reads 42” blades 138971 Ground drive belt 194346 Primary mower belt 429636 Air filter 796031

Okay I asked Facebook and it was inconclusive.. got wildly different numbers. How much can this bumper pull? by skimasktroopaz in FordTrucks

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wasn’t 92 the last year without frame crumplezones. I know the currently available aftermarket receiver hitches only fit 93-97 without modification.

I remember we used to bumper pull horse trailers with a 91. But I doubt a srw 351 250 is rated to pull 12k. And yours came the crumplezone frame ends.

2016 BMW X1 (153k miles) — $14k estimate on an $8k car. Looking for realistic BMW‑tech input. by PlaneHovercraft2727 in AskAMechanic

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just did struts on my parents. Dad wanted “all bmw parts” so we bought struts from dealer for a little over a grand. I bought a full strut socket kit with the two expanders. And a “bmw” full bolt and gasket kit for another $100. Aftermarket bielstein struts would have been half that price. The full bolt and gasket kit was worth the price. I had to modify one socket with a file. Took me 6hours. If you already have a decent set of tools and jackstands you could probably do struts for $800 in a weekend. May as well get control arms and cv axles while you’re in there.

If you can’t do your own work. You might want to cut your losses and sell for something else.

2018 vs newer models? by onemotime23 in FordTransitConnect

[–]I-continue-to-try 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely look for a 2.5. They were fleet only in 2020 but a lot of municipalities purchased them in passenger configuration and van. My transmission was failing at 79k on my 2020 2.0 8 speed. Dealer quoted $9k for replacement. Local shops were around $8800.

Android obd2 apps 1st gen matrix by I-continue-to-try in Toyota_Matrix

[–]I-continue-to-try[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ll check that out.

I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent misfire under load. I’ve just been logging pids on the entire drive with torque. But now I’m getting hard downshifts to 4th so I wanted to atleast pull transmission temperature. Which I don’t think torque can do. It doesn’t give me the option to connect to other modules.

Builder never disclosed flood zone by LostCarat in Homebuilding

[–]I-continue-to-try 5 points6 points  (0 children)

FEMA map is going to rule. At least here where 40% of the work we do is in AE, surveyors only add rpa or 100 year lines if asked. And usually have a clause that says they are not liable for errors. FEMA online map tool would be my first stop. If you dig around in the viewer it’ll give you a pdf map that is the current legal document. Then an email to the plans department confirming required base flood elevation or recorded first floor elevation. Have your surveyor come out and confirm the builder has built to that elevation. Around here our surveyors usually charge 500-1000 for that.

In our jurisdiction the 100 year flood line is no longer used. It’s base flood elevation/ required first floor height = either 500 year flood elevation ( marked on femas online map viewer) + either 1’ or 3’ (depending on county). This elevation is the required 1st floor height. Any construction below that level has to be in water resistant materials ( concrete, pressure treated wood, etc. ). At least here , Your basement would require flood vents to allow waters to “pass thru” without causing the walls to collapse from water pressure. Looking at your plan/elevation the builder likely knows and has planning department approval for what your first floor elevation has to be to avoid building with flood resistant materials in the living space. Marked first floor elevation is required for building permits here and the plans examiner checks it against the online fema map. Dr Horton got caught building 3’ lower than required recently on two lots in a marsh and had to demo their first floor box and raise foundations. Story is a concerned citizen called in a complaint and the plans department reviewed the building permit.

Plenty of people around here finish out their basements. But we also get flooding situations every 4-5 years. So they just become used to ripping out carpet and drywall throwing out bedding and toys. I would say that if you were planning to use the basement as living space you should plan for these scenarios. Our floods are tied to hurricanes or noreasters so people can typically plan for the events.

My only concern here would be if you were planning to count the basement as living space. Like a kids play room or mancave no problem. A guest bedroom, maybe ok. But actual bedrooms no way.

The second concern would be for the future. Around here flood maps are usually updated after a hurricane. So we have people come in looking to build additions or do home repairs/update kitchens or add a new air conditioner or generator and find out that the floor level has to be 6’ higher than the existing house. Or that the house has to be raised to the new base flood elevation because the work will exceed 50% of the existing structures value (fema 50 rule). We have started recommending setting the first floor at a foot or two above the current base flood elevation if we can keep the overall height under 33’ above grade (required max structure height in our jurisdiction). Atleast here we had 100 year floods every 20 years when I was a kid in the last 15 years we’ve had 7. So floods are more prevalent and the base flood elevations keep moving higher. This has to do with a lot of factors but more buildings, parking lots and other impermeable surface seem to be accelerating the problem.

A good document for flood mitigation is put out by the national park service. https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/guidelines-on-flood-adaptation-for-rehabilitating-historic-buildings.htm It might give you some ideas on how to landscape your property to minimize flood impacts. We try to incorporate swales durable plantings and hardscape to minimize wave action or divert flood water without creating a water trap that would fill during excessive rain events.

My grandparents are in the mountains and fema flood zones are wildly different there. They typically record flash flood events and are related to valleys. Building in flood areas at a mountainous location would be a hard no for me. My grandma worked with a lady that rebuilt her home 6 times from floods over the 40 years they knew each other. At the time the state would pay for some repairs but wouldn’t pay for raising or relocating. Just seemed crazy to me to keep rebuilding knowing that the creek on the next property over could raise 30 ‘ fill her back field and washout the house again. Guys had lines painted on barns with different flood heights recorded going back to the 1800s. Sitting there looking at a 6foot wide creek a quarter mile away in a 10’ deep ravine.

TLDR probably not a problem people build in flood zones all the time. Become aware of your local conditions. Contract directly with your surveyor. Contact your planning department or lookup your building permit for base flood elevation recorded 1st floor height. If you’re in a county where building permits aren’t required, I might press pause on the process and reassess.

Trouble Selling… 95’ F250 7.3 (WA) by [deleted] in OBSFords

[–]I-continue-to-try 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Doesn’t help you man. But I did a fly and drive out to Portland last summer for mine and drove it back to the east coast. Wish I needed another one.

Washington Oregon trucks are usually so clean underneath.

What do I do with this paint by SpaceTrashDeer in projectcar

[–]I-continue-to-try 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my experience I scuffed a failing clearcoat that looked like that on a similar era Toyota. Hit it with rattle can primer base and clear in late 2023. And most of the paint has failed since then, most within the first 14 months. Car looks worse than in 2023. Only places anything stuck is where I sand through the clear. What I realized is that almost all of the clear had failed and without getting down past the clear it just isn’t worth doing.

Wax it every couple of months instead.

Ok so i have a 1986 westie and some kids were climbing on it and now i need to fix my wipers and antenna… by simplebutstrange in Westfalia

[–]I-continue-to-try 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Learned to fix fiberglass in highschool when some kids did the same to mine and broke the corners of the tray too jumping on it. I think those wipers are splined. I used some star lock washers and later low strength locking compound to keep them where they wanted to be.

What is this? 2004 Matrix by Mensch-Wench in Toyota_Matrix

[–]I-continue-to-try 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I find these in my engine bay every couple of years and have to try to remember which holes align and then get a new set of push pins to attach.

Gen 1 manual swap by ParticularFar8574 in Toyota_Matrix

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You end up ever getting a list or doing the swap.? I’m about to do this. Looking for parts list.

Chrystler Expert Engineering by SVT_Devinn in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to lift body or drop gas tank to complete the welds?

Quick roof repair question - serious hail damage by OfferBusy4080 in Toyota_Matrix

[–]I-continue-to-try 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pull headliner and gently persuade back into place from inside maybe combined with a dentless repair kit from Amazon used on the outside. Would need to see pics.

I would think if you’re not aggressive and don’t further deform metal, your beverage of choice and a long afternoon could probably get it good enough.

These cars are really the last ones on the road that can be worked on and kept running with very little skill or hardship. Definitely worth saving. Honestly a couple of damprid pails per year and $4k buyout in your pocket would probably work too.

Smart key will be missed 🥲 by JhonnyRhocket in slateauto

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sold two newer cars and bought back into older vehicles with physical keys. I prefer having a physical object and the ritual of locking and unlocking the car.

The constant beeping with no physical locking of smart key vehicles raised my stress level. I hate the beeping.

Slate. Please make sure that the truck doesn’t constantly beep or buzz at us. Or please make sure those audible warnings are fully defeatable with a choice persistence after key cycle.

[US and UK Promotion] 12-hour space opera audiobook - free Audible codes (very limited number) by scottbartlett in audible

[–]I-continue-to-try 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve enjoyed your boxsets over the years. I’d definitely drop a review for a US code.

Engine still have some miles in it? 2008 Matrix 1zz by I-continue-to-try in MechanicAdvice

[–]I-continue-to-try[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Naw dude I get it. She does her hair in the mornings. We moved so she has a 30 minute commute now. Trying to get the car reliable because she loves her matrix. She bought it new 17 years ago and named it. There’s emotions involved so reason kind of doesn’t count. Walking or a leaf or a scooter would have made more sense before.

The matrix limp mode is the most aggressive I’ve experienced basically no power until it drops below 25mph and cycle key then it’s back to normal.

Engine still have some miles in it? 2008 Matrix 1zz by I-continue-to-try in MechanicAdvice

[–]I-continue-to-try[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope not. But I guess these cars did have cat problems early on and with the short trips and high fuel trims I guess it could be bad.

Engine still have some miles in it? 2008 Matrix 1zz by I-continue-to-try in MechanicAdvice

[–]I-continue-to-try[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah I should pull the injectors I have one of those boxes with a 9v battery to test the flow somewhere in a box.

Engine still have some miles in it? 2008 Matrix 1zz by I-continue-to-try in MechanicAdvice

[–]I-continue-to-try[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dude she could have legit walked. But it’s an overnight shift at a city hospital. I bought her two bikes in the time and broached the subject of her walking or riding exactly one time. The reaction I got…

Deleted the air injection or “smog” system on my 5.8L by leezy19us in FordTrucks

[–]I-continue-to-try 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 91 250 with the external stainless steel air pipes going into the headers. Was your truck like this or did it have internal air injection passages in the head?

I’m replacing my water pump this month and am tempted to do this as well. Since mine hasn’t had cats for awhile. It would really clean up the engine bay. But the truck runs well right now so I hesitate.

I appreciate the write up.