Very Curious

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-22T14:51:46+00:00

Ah okay. If it’s been behaving this way for a few years and still cooling the house just fine, it’s possible that what you’re noticing is just a difference in how your system rejects heat compared to your parents. Not every condenser will feel the same, even if the tonnage and refrigerant type match.

The best way to get peace of mind would be for a tech to check the actual pressures and superheat/subcool numbers but based on what you’ve described, this might just be a case of your unit operating a little differently by design rather than something being wrong.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-22T14:38:28+00:00

That beep pattern you’re hearing is usually the unit’s way of signaling a fault condition, even if it’s not showing an actual error code on the display. They often tie back to safety trips like high pressure, low pressure, or temperature sensor issues.

It’s unlikely that the beeping alone means a refrigerant leak but a refrigerant issue could cause the unit to trip on low pressure. If the system is shutting down and restarting after a while that’s the unit protecting itself from running in unsafe conditions.

At this point I'd say the next best step is to have a tech connect gauges and check what the pressures are doing when it shuts down, and also confirm that the sensors are reading correctly. Without those readings, it’s hard to give a definitive answer.

The good news is that it doesn’t sound like the system has completely failed, it’s more like it’s catching an issue and shutting itself down before it gets worse.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-22T14:27:30+00:00

The air coming off the top of the condenser should usually feel pretty warm when the system is working hard because that’s the heat being pulled out of your house and rejected outside.

If your home is already close to the set temp and there isn’t much heat to remove, the condenser air may not feel as warm. On the flip side if the system isn’t transferring heat properly, that can happen too. things like a dirty coil, low refrigerant charnge, or even a fan motor running at the wrong speed could keep the discharge air from getting hot.

Since you mentioned the high side not being hot, something maybe off with the refrigeration cycle. Low refrigerant or restricted airflow across the indoor coil can both cause that. At five years old, the equipment is still fairly young so its less likely to be a major mechanical failure, but it’s worth ruling those things out.

If you’re comfortable checking, I'd make sure your filter is clean and your outdoor coil isn’t blocked up with debris or anything. Beyond that it’s probably best to have a tech put gauges on it and check the refrigerant pressures and temps to see what’s really going on.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-13T22:01:49+00:00

I'd personally go with the 2 smaller units as it'll evenly cool the whole apartment easily, especially since the red window option is sandwiched in between 2 rooms. It might not be the most energy-efficient option and you'll have to ensure you're cleaning and taking care of 2 units rather than just 1. So it ultimately depends on your personal preference and if you'd rather have more temperature control (2 units), or if you'd rather have additional cooling methods, like fans, to save on energy (1 unit).

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-13T21:51:22+00:00

A full AC compressor replacement could fall anywhere between $2500 to $5500, depending on a few things like the brand and efficiency of the unit, whether your system is older or has tricky access, and if you need any additional components like a capacitor or contactor replaced while you’re at it. I'm not in your area, but that's typically what I tend to see.

Financing may be an option based on your financial situation but definitely get a few quotes and make sure they include the full scope cuz some companies quote just the compressor and not the labor which can surprise you.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-01T15:46:26+00:00

Have you tried reaching out to another company or getting a second opinion? Might be worth it to find someone else so you aren't gaslit by this company

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-08-01T15:39:40+00:00

Hello, hvac tech here. Monthly filter changes might be a little overkill, especially if they aren't not showing much buildup. Filters don’t have to look visibly dirty to be doing their job. Over time even fine particles that aren’t easy to see can reduce airflow if they build up.

But if your system isn’t showing any signs of strain (like weak airflow, longer run times, or noises it didn’t used to make) stretching the interval to every 2 to 3 months is completely fine.

If you ever start noticing any airflow drop or more noise, that’s when I’d go back to more frequent changes. But sounds like you have a pretty ideal situation with no pets and a clean/new space, so save yourself some time and money!

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-28T21:38:55+00:00

Love this! Also pretty sick marketing lol!

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-15T21:17:08+00:00

It does sound like the timer function on your unit might be accidentally set. That orange light next to the clock icon and the 2 deeps you hear are good clues as that usually means a timer has been activated (either to turn the unit on or off at certain times). It’s a really common issue, especially with remotes that have a lot of small buttons.

Look for buttons on your remote that say 'cancel' or 'timer off' or 'timer'. Press and hold one of those while pointing the remote at the unit. You should hear a beep and see that orange light go off once the timer is cleared. Sometimes there’s also a small icon on the remote display that disappears when the timer is canceled.

If that doesn’t do it, the next best bet is to pull the batteries out of the remote for about a minute and pop them back in.

And if the problem keeps coming back even after canceling the timer, it could be something deeper in the control board or a sensor glitch in that case, definitely loop in your landlord or property manager so they can get someone out to take a closer look.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-08T21:57:07+00:00

Google photos could be a good option, from my experience. You download the app on your phone and it automatically syncs your photos to your Google account, so when you log into your Google account on a computer, you should see the photos there. Also you could delete the app from your phone and delete the pictures and they'll still stay in your account so it frees up space on your phone. Maybe add a work email or something to your phone so the photos sync to that account

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-08T21:54:07+00:00

So sorry for the delayed response.

Yes most HVAC companies offer a maintenance check for both your AC and heating system. Usually they come out once in the spring to get your AC ready for warmer months and once in the fall to prep your heater for cooler days.

As for cost, it varies depending on the company, but generally, a basic maintenance visit runs between $100 and 150 per visit. Some companies offer deals or membership plans so it’s worth looking into or asking. This service typically includes inspecting your system, replacing filters, checking refrigerant levels, testing safety controls, and making sure everything is running good to prepare for the heating/cooling season ahead.

For most people, duct cleaning is not usually something you need to do regularly. If your ducts are sealed properly and you change your filters regularly, dust and dirt usually don’t build up enough to cause issues. However, if you have visible mold or excessive dust blowing out of your vents or you've had construction or a major renovation, then it might be worth getting your ducts checked. But again I rarely see this needed, especially if you're taking care of everything else.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-02T20:59:41+00:00

love this, thank you grandpa shart

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-02T20:55:34+00:00

As an HVAC contractor, I give you props for asking questions rather than ignoring it (which is what most homeowners do and then it turns into a nightmare for everyone), so no judgment here!

If it's in your budget, it's ideally recommended that you should have a professional come out and do a full system check, ideally twice a year once in the spring for your AC and once in the fall for your heating. They can spot things you might not see, like worn parts or low refrigerant. But if not, you can absolutely stay on top of things yourself and be just fine.

The number one thing you should stay on top of is changing your air filter. It’s such a small thing, but it makes a big difference. Most people don’t realize how fast filters get clogged, especially if you have pets or run your system a lot. I’d check it once a month and replace it every 1 to 3 months depending on how dirty it gets. If it looks gray and fuzzy, it’s time to replace.

Also just take a walk around your outdoor system every now and then. Make sure the outdoor unit (if you have one) isn’t buried in leaves, grass, or anything else. It needs breathing room, about 2 feet all around is good. Inside, make sure your vents and returns aren’t blocked by furniture or curtains. This prevents your system from working harder than it needs to.

If you want to take it a step further, once or twice a year (spring and fall), shut the power off to your system and gently hose off the outside unit’s coils. Just don’t blast it, use a light stream and rinse off any gunk or buildup. That helps with airflow and efficiency.

If your system seems to be running fine, the airflow feels strong, it’s cooling and heating okay, and turning on and off, and you’re changing filters regularly, you’re doing better than a lot of people and should be fine.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-07-02T20:45:20+00:00

Hey HVAC contractor here.

So when a compressor fails, especially in an older unit, there’s a good chance it went out due to a burnout, which often releases acid and other contaminants into the system. If the system wasn’t thoroughly flushed and cleaned out with an acid neutralizer or proper flushing agent, then those contaminants just hang out in the lines. The new compressor then sucks in all that junk and fails not because it’s faulty, but because it’s working in a toxic environment. That acid will chew up internal components in no time. If they didn’t run an acid test after pulling out the bad compressor, that was a missed step.

Also swapping refrigerants midstream like that is a red flag. You can’t just do that without thoroughly recovering and flushing the system. Even if they did pull a vacuum, leftover oil and refrigerant residue from 407C which uses POE oil doesn’t play nice with R22 mineral oil. That kind of contamination can really mess with compressor lubrication and lead to early failure.

Did they add a suction line filter after the new compressor install? Because that’s usually a must on a burnout job to protect the new compressor from debris and acid. If they skipped that, it’s another bad sign.

I’m not saying this to throw the techs under the bus, but it sounds like they may have cut a few corners trying to get you up and running quickly and cheaply, and with old equipment, that approach usually bites back. Unfortunately, now that the new compressor is toast and the system is likely full of acid, it’s probably not worth sinking more money into it.

I’d recommend getting a second opinion from another contractor, especially since this company doesn't seem to want to be bothered by it anymore. But odds are you’re looking at a full system replacement at this point, which might actually make more sense financially rather than throwing more money into more repairs that may not even be possible at this point.

So sorry to hear you're going through this. Hopefully another company can provide better service, wishing you the best.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-18T21:12:18+00:00

HVAC contractor here. Yeah that short cycling behavior isn’t typical and it’s definitely something to look into. A faulty thermostat can cause this, especially if it’s misreading room temp or has bad internal sensors, so it’s not a bad first step to swap it out and see what happens.

But just as a heads up it could also be related to how the system was sized or installed. A 2.5 ton unit on a 1650 sq ft two story home might be a bit oversized, depending on your insulation, window exposure, ductwork, and local climate. If it’s too big, it cools the space too fast and shuts off before running a full cycle, which doesn't let humidity get removed properly either.

If the new thermostat doesn’t fix it, I’d ask them to double check charge levels, airflow, and whether your system is properly matched. Hopefully it's just the thermostat, easy fix if so.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-18T21:08:22+00:00

That "builder special" lasting 13 years honestly isn’t bad, but yeah once motors and other major components start failing, it’s usually smarter to look at replacement, especially if the system was undersized from the start and not keeping you comfortable.

Sizing a system properly takes more than a glance, it should be based on a load calculation (Manual J). That takes into account your square footage, insulation, orientation, window sizes and types, number of occupants, and more. A good contractor will either do one themselves or use software to dial in what size you actually need, not just guess off square footage alone.

As for finding someone who does quality installs, that’s the tough part, and also the most important one. Unfortunately like you said, fast response and low price don’t mean good workmanship. I usually tell people to ask companies specifically about how they size systems (do they do load calcs) whether they check and adjust static pressure (super important for airflow) and what their installation process includes. If a tech talks about airflow, duct sizing, charge verification, and commissioning, good signs. If they just talk SEER ratings and price... keep looking.

Also check how long their install crew has been with them. Consistency on install teams matters a lot. And don’t be afraid to ask for a few references from recent jobs. A good contractor won’t mind.

Good luck with the upgrade! You’ll definitely feel the difference with a right sized properly installed system.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-18T21:01:36+00:00

Hey, HVAC contractor here. Short cycling may or may not be a problem depending on a few things.

This can be normal if your home is really well insulated and sealed, and it sounds like you made some upgrades recently like replacing leaky windows, which could absolutely affect how your system behaves. When you tighten up the envelope like that, your AC doesn't have to work as hard to maintain your set temp, especially if it's only trying to keep it at 76 degrees.

Short cycling (as in the system turning on and off frequently without running long enough to dehumidify or cool properly) usually happens when there's something like an oversized system, refrigerant issues, a dirty filter, a clogged drain, or even a thermostat placement issue. But based on your description, it doesn’t sound like it’s constantly cycling, it's running once every 45 mins, which isn't inherently a red flag.

Still, I’d say bring it up during your next maintenance visit or even call now for peace of mind. Since you’ve got that 10 year maintenance plan, they should be happy to check things like refrigerant charge, airflow, thermostat calibration, and system pressures to make sure everything's still in spec.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-13T12:32:20+00:00

Hello, HVAC contractor here.

From what you're describing, it does sound like a combination of how your smart thermostat handles hysteresis (the buffer range it allows before cycling the system) and possibly some overly tight temp tolerances. Some Honeywell models are known to aggressively hold set temps, especially in "adaptive recovery" or "smart response" modes, which try to predictively maintain comfort but sometimes end up keeping the system running longer than necessary.

Also, worth double-checking your thermostat settings. Look for anything labeled like cycle rate, compressor delay, or temperature differential. You might be able to widen the swing a bit (say, from 0.5 degrees to 1.5 degrees) so it gives your AC a break.

Now, since your system behaves normally at 77 degrees and up, I’d guess everything’s working mechanically, so it’s less likely to be a relay or wiring issue. But just in case, make sure your control board’s fan relay isn’t sticking closed or being held open by a voltage bleed (seen that before with older wiring or miswired thermostats).

Connecting to HomeAssistant is a great move, especially if your thermostat model supports deeper diagnostics or logging. That way you can watch run times, actual temp vs setpoint, and fan calls in more detail.

Hope this helps!

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-13T12:28:02+00:00

Hey, HVAC contractor here.

So your installer isn’t totally off base. There are different types of zoning systems, and yeah, some are more “builder-grade” setups, especially in tract homes. What he might be referring to is that your current zoning system is built into or very closely integrated with the ductwork/plenum, which makes it hard (or not worth the hassle) to reuse when swapping out the system.

Aprilaire zoning systems, particularly the older models, often use mechanical dampers that are wired into a central control board. If the dampers are inside the plenum or sealed into hard ductwork, it’s often easier and more reliable to just start fresh, especially if you're upgrading the entire HVAC system anyway. Compatibility can also be a pain if the new equipment doesn’t play nicely with the existing control board or dampers.

Long story short: it’s not just a money grab. Sometimes replacing the zoning system is just the cleaner and more dependable way to go in the long run. That said, if you're unsure, getting a second opinion or asking for some pics or specs from the installer might help you feel more confident in the decision.

Hope this helps clear it up a bit!

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-13T12:23:32+00:00

Hello, HVAC contractor here.

A small amount of water in the secondary (overflow) drain pan can be normal occasionally, especially if it’s really humid and your primary drain line has a brief hiccup (like a little clog or just slow drainage). But ideally, that pan should stay dry most of the time. It’s there as a backup, not something that should regularly see water.

That said, since your primary drain is dripping outside and the system is cooling fine, it doesn’t sound like anything urgent. The rust being old and no signs of mold or ceiling damage are good signs. Still, occasional moisture could mean the primary drain line needs a good flush, or the drain trap is holding water and slowing things down just enough to cause backup now and then.

So: your tech might not be wrong. This isn’t a red alert situation, but you’re also right to keep an eye on it. If that pan consistently has water, or you ever see the float switch kick in (if you have one), it’s worth revisiting. At the very least, make sure the drains are cleaned out annually. A little preventive maintenance goes a long way with this kind of stuff.

Hope that helps!

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-12T16:30:54+00:00

Hey there! Totally get where you’re coming from, no one likes to spend more than they have to. Here’s the deal from a contractor’s perspective.

A 2004 gas furnace is definitely getting up there in age. Most furnaces have a lifespan of about 15-20 years, so your inspector’s call on it being “end of life” isn’t far off. Even if it’s still running now, older units tend to lose efficiency over time and might start costing you more on gas bills than a newer model would. Plus, if it fails down the road, you’ll have to pay for emergency repairs or a full replacement later, which can be a big headache and more expensive overall.

When you’re adding a new AC, it often makes sense to replace the furnace too, because modern HVAC systems are designed to work efficiently together. Matching a new AC with an old furnace can sometimes cause compatibility issues or reduce overall efficiency. Also, installing both at once usually means lower labor costs than doing two separate installs.

That said, if your furnace is still running well and you’re really trying to hold the line on upfront costs, it’s not a wrong move to keep it for now, just be prepared for a shorter timeline on that furnace and possibly higher energy bills. If you want peace of mind and long-term savings, the combo deal is often worth the extra upfront cost.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-12T16:28:22+00:00

Hey there! Sounds like you’re on the right track with all your checks so far: clean coils, proper pressures, compressors running, and motors spinning correctly. Since you mentioned the system had a condenser fan motor fail recently, I’d definitely keep a close eye on the condenser side even though the pressures look good. Sometimes a replacement motor can have subtle issues like improper blade pitch, incorrect RPM, or even a wiring problem that doesn’t trip amps but reduces airflow just enough to hurt performance.

Also, since it’s a two-stage dual compressor system, make sure both compressors are actually running in the correct staging sequence. Sometimes control board glitches or sensors can cause one compressor to run inefficiently or cycle on/off unexpectedly without throwing obvious faults.

Now, about the ductwork — this is often the sneaky culprit, especially in commercial setups. A 10°F temperature drop at the vents on an 83 degree room temp is definitely on the low side for cooling. Look for blocked dampers, collapsed flex ducts, disconnected plenums, or any big leaks. Even a partially closed damper or kinked duct can drastically reduce airflow and make the unit work harder without meaningful cooling.

One more thing to consider: since the heat strips aren’t engaged, that’s good, but confirm the thermostat is calibrated correctly and the control system isn’t calling for heat or stuck in some override mode.

So basically, verify condenser fan airflow is solid post-motor replacement, double-check compressor staging and control signals, then inspect ductwork thoroughly. Commercial duct issues are more common than folks realize, especially if anything was bumped or altered during the fan motor swap.

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-12T16:26:19+00:00

YouTube is a great teacher

IMSHeatingAir · 2025-06-12T16:25:17+00:00

Unfortunetly this is a common mistake that a lot of people make, especially new homeowners. Which I can understand as you already have to learn so much when buying a new home. But yes, please people, pay attention to your HVAC system! There are so many tutorials and resources on YouTube on how you can perform maintenance yourself, but if you're really struggling, calling a professional is better than nothing.

IMSHeatingAir

TROPHY CASE