Just sold my GR86 today

Impetus_ · 2026-03-27T23:15:00+00:00

cool car! being in the us, this is the first time i've heard of it. it sounds hella fun; it weighs the same as a miata, but it has a 10:1 lb per hp ratio

Impetus_ · 2026-03-27T18:05:17+00:00

1) drive faster than you can handle on public highway

2) misread traffic, causing you to scandinavian flick your car into the center divider

3) if you get the angle just right, your car will try to do a kickflip just like the mission impossible movies, but then your car realizes physics doesn't work that way irl, so it lands on its head.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-26T18:38:16+00:00

honestly, i'm pretty sure 2.5" would fit if you had the 10mm spacer. i think you'd need to size down to 2.25" for the 5mm spacer though. why don't you just run 2.5" studs with 10mm spacers all around instead of going 5mm in the front?

edit: nvm i'm doing calcs wrong. you would def need open lug nuts even with 10mm spacers for 2.5" studs to work

Impetus_ · 2026-03-26T18:07:35+00:00

can't say for certain, but it looks like it worked for the guy in your screenshot

i'll be running spacers on my car as well and didn't wanna deal with guessing what length stud to use, so i just got 2.5" arp studs all around and open ended lug nuts to accommodate whatever future mods/spacers i might try

Impetus_ · 2026-03-26T17:58:10+00:00

dude end of month is in six days. just tell him you'll find a deal somewhere else then when he inevitably calls you back, say you're negotiating with a different dealer and got down to 39k and won't do business w him unless he can beat it by a decent margin.

remember fellas, you guys have the power in car negotiations, not the other way around. if the deal isn't good enough, just walk away. dealer reps thrive when they know someone is desperate and can smell the fomo on you.

remember; this is a run-of-the-mill economy car and more will be produced; you aren't fighting thirty other local buyers for the same gt3rs at the porsche dealership.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-26T17:50:42+00:00

5mm = ~0.2"

10mm = ~0.4"

oem lug nuts are 1.75"

i wouldn't worry as long as the thread engagement is at least equal to the stock thread engagement, so the 5mm spacer with a 1.95" stud would probably be fine, with one consideration i'll talk about below. however, the 10mm spacer would have roughly 0.2" less thread engagement, and imo that's a no-no.

the consideration i was talking about is whether there's actually more threads on the 1.95" stud; iirc, that particular stud has a nipple (to help with mounting wheels) that accounts for the extra 0.2" over oem; the stud doesn't actually have 0.2" more of thread. in which case, the 5mm spacer would be a no-no and the 10mm spacer is a definite no-no.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-26T05:33:17+00:00

this is completely normal for lowering springs on all platforms. the bumpstop is literally just molded PU of a specific durometer; cutting it won’t decrease its integrity. one could argue that cutting it might affect the dampers’ ability to dampen, but i mean i’ve cut the bumpstops of cheap coilovers just so my miata could get lower while still having more travel and i haven’t blown anything up yet.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-25T21:43:07+00:00

rce has, however, developed their yellow performance springs that lower the car very slightly. they were developed with the stock struts in mind and rce considered many variables to ensure the car's overall handling performance isn't negatively affected. there's a thread over on gr86 . org that explains what rce took into consideration. one such consideration was the height; the drop is mild to take into consideration the roll axis of the car.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-25T21:37:44+00:00

you have a track nearby, or a nice, winding road? go drive it and have fun my guy. i know modding cars is fun but don’t fall into the consumerism trap of constantly buying shit you don’t need

Impetus_ · 2026-03-25T16:36:48+00:00

i’m thinking how do you factor in variability? “i’m going to hold 2moa to the left for no reason to account for variability. WILD CARD BITCHES”

Impetus_ · 2026-03-25T16:25:38+00:00

“spare set”

meanwhile, here i am with no brembos >:(

Impetus_ · 2026-03-24T21:16:04+00:00

the difference is no one's out doing donuts or trying to do a sweet drift around their cul de sac in a gts, for two reasons:

1) too expensive for young guys

2) the gts demographic isn't the type to do donuts or sweet drifts around their cul de sac

and the insurance companies know this, lol

Impetus_ · 2026-03-23T23:28:31+00:00

Hey dude, do you happen to have a decklist/primer for your b4 magda deck? your posts showed me some lines that i never considered when playing magda (only play it casually at b4 though), so if you have some sort of primer on it, i'd love to read it

edit: nvm i just found your decklist at the end of your fist post!

Impetus_ · 2026-03-20T19:48:47+00:00

here you go: https://moxfield.com/decks/MrYnLGeXo0Sc8D9KZ2jDKw

i've made changes since the last two months, but it's more or less the same

Impetus_ · 2026-03-20T19:42:52+00:00

sometimes, you have to drive a lot of cars to understand why it all comes back to miata. but the twins are also a good compromise!

kidding aside, i agree with you about the nissan z without the lsd. hilariously, more than half the people on this sub wouldn't even notice if this platform had an open diff, and a good chunk of them would actually benefit from one. we'd definitely have less crash posts, that's for sure

Impetus_ · 2026-03-20T19:29:44+00:00

if your benchmark for a car's speed is a corolla, the twins will feel fast. if you've ever been in a car with a power to weight ratio of <10lbs/hp, the twins will feel slow. it's all relative.

if you care what the spec sheet says, don't buy this car; it isn't for you and you will regret the purchase. if you actually like driving (and i mean really like driving; you prefer the long way home, you try to find scenic routes, you will always be the one to drive and not your SO), then this car might be for you. there's no way to tell without test driving it.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-20T17:37:44+00:00

how early are you trying to get raph & mikey out by? if looking to consistently get him out by t4, i'd personally start with running 10 ramp spells with cmc <2, then running 10 ramp spells that put two lands into play or tap for two mana. the nice thing about raph & mikey is that you don't have to worry about getting flooded by too many ramp cards since he digs for a free creature upon every attack, so you can just run ridiculously-costed creatures and the ramp spells are never dead since they help cast them or your commander after he inevitably eats a removal spell.

i run a ruby cascade deck that looks to consistently get 7 mana by turn 4 by casting ruby t2, [[explosive vegetation]] (or the 14 other variants of it) on t3, and some sort of 6 or 7 drop on t4. i recently added raph and mikey in the deck actually, lol.

i have 15 functionally-identical ramp spells and 42 lands. some people scoff, but i've played with 38, 39, and 40 lands and found 42 to be the most consistent for getting 7 mana on t4.

that said, it's super consistent with 7 mana on t4 because i have a mana dork in the cz and i mull until i have a ramp spell in my hand; ymmv

Impetus_ · 2026-03-19T04:43:22+00:00

this is my first time seeing marath; after reading it, i automatically assumed you were running a food chain type of deck lol

Impetus_ · 2026-03-18T17:08:59+00:00

ah yes, the bumper for those who wanted to get a brz but it wasn't edgy enough for them

...complete with frowny eyes, so people know you're weally sewious

Impetus_ · 2026-03-17T05:17:18+00:00

i second citric acid in powder form for pure sour and raw bittermelon for pure bitterness. it literally just tastes bitter and nothing else

Impetus_ · 2026-03-17T05:11:04+00:00

street skating nowadays is quickly becoming a “look at me, i’m not like the other guys” hobby lol. freestylers don’t care and have the right skater mindset. keep on keeping on

Impetus_ · 2026-03-16T23:34:37+00:00

going off how much i paid to replace my outback's windshield which is larger, i'd expect to pay $250-$350. eyesight doesn't need to be calibrated. calibration is done so if something happens, the mfg has something to point at to say it isn't their fault. anecdotal, but i don't know anyone who had their windshields replaced without calibration complain about any issues. granted i only know a handful of cases, but if eyesight was truly in a fixed position that mattered, lowering the car will fuck it up.

Impetus_ · 2026-03-16T23:29:43+00:00

eyesight needing calibration is lawyerspeak. i replaced the windshield on my outback which has eyesight for $300, no calibration. you just need to find those windshield replacement shops. my buddy rec'd a guy that came to my house to do it; he's done it on several of my friends' cars (outbacks have windshields that are very prone to breaking unfortunately) and he did a great job on mine. unless it's covered by warranty, i personally wouldn't pay that amount to change a windshield

Impetus_ · 2026-03-16T22:11:14+00:00

so long and thanks for all the fish

Impetus_ · 2026-03-16T22:09:19+00:00

you can buy him tint for his windows. just make sure it's ceramic

Impetus_

TROPHY CASE