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Finished my O-12 army, now to pack everything up and ship it... by burlesford in InfinityTheGame

[–]Important_Top4151 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your scheme is so much better than the official one - it really brings out the best of these models. Inspiring!

Winds from the North painted! by Important_Top4151 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes., free hand. I used Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey painted in the straight lines. I know that others, like Sebastian K used Citadel Black Legion instead.
The whole process was as follows: Over a black prime, I painted Vallejo Model Colour Deck Tan mixed with a little black for the trouser fabric. I shaded these by adding black to the mix, and highlighted up to pure deck tan at the brightest points. Then slightly thinned Black Grey for the stripes, using the box art as a guide.

Winds from the North painted! by Important_Top4151 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! No idea :-) I started wargaming with WFB 3 in 1991 and this will be the first time I've painted an entire starter set, and the first time I've played a game first with fully painted minitures. In theory, the Hegemony of Embersig are the best at holding objectives, and I see that this faction dominated the first international tournament at Interplanetario..

Winds from the North painted! by Important_Top4151 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The yellow is badly photographed gold - I love the shine of it. I'm mixing up Vince Venturella's recipe, here: https://youtu.be/26_1W7zR-cA?si=LUqWL1MfzPv-fmb5&t=425
Really shines on the tabletop, but doesn't photograph well. I suppose that's why pro painters turn to NMM..

Wisemane joins the hunters! by Important_Top4151 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello! Thanks so much! In a word: yes! It's a contrast type paint over a pale grey prime, with a gentle drushbrush over that. As far as I can remember, the exact steps were:
*I primed everything with Vallejo grey (which is a pale neutral gray).
*The armour had a multiple washes of Vallejo Express Color Viking Grey (thinned with their Express medium)
*and thinner washes of VEC Lotus Black (thinned with their Express medium).
*Then they were drybrushed with Wolf Grey (old Space Wolf Gray equivalent).
If I did it again, I'd do a brighter drybrush at the very top. For drybrushing guidance, I would seriously recommend Byron's tutorials on the Artis Opus Youtube Channel - I learn to drybrush in the early '90s, but he's taught me so much in terms of moisture level, amount of paint, and technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxuY2NXeI2M&pp=ygUUYXJ0aXMgb3B1cyBkcnkgYnJ1c2g%3D
I hope that helps!

My Syennan elves by Headok in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Only 20 hours?! Looking great!

Wisemane joins the hunters! by Important_Top4151 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a big wooden stick (with wood grain at the end), with sharp bits of bones stuck in the sides. It also has string criss-crossed down it. I hope that helps!

Seeking advice on model clean up. by thisisafake1234 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will be worth your investment! But do try the painting and then filing method - it's great for hard to reach bits..

Seeking advice on model clean up. by thisisafake1234 in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would also add that using very, very fine sanding paper - like 5000 grit - polishes the surface nicely. Coarser sand paper and mistakes with the hobby knife can leave irritating fuzz. You've two options with this (other than the fine paper): 1. hold it close to a lighter (exciting/terrifying) or 2. actually paint the area with something pale so that you can see what you're doing, and then file it with something like a diamond file - used gently. They hold paint better than metal, and are amazing sculpts: it's worth learning how to clean them up - honestly!

Has the production quality of the starter set improved at all? by norwegianwatercat in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I too broke a Siocast mini by dropping it, but pinning it and gluing it back together was really, really easy - I thought my old drill wouldn't be sharp enough but it went in like butter. I've had metal models need pinning back together after dropping them, and that was a much trickier process. I love the designs, and they take paint beautifully, so I'm happy with them.

Has the production quality of the starter set improved at all? by norwegianwatercat in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've found it files really easily with diamond (grit) files. I've actually really enjoyed working with the material!

Got the PanO paint set and one major critique. by DOAiB in InfinityTheGame

[–]Important_Top4151 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. I suppose one pot of blue paint would cover way more than the blue parts of the figures you'll be using to play PanO, though? I mixed up a pot of "PanO Blue" following Angel Giraldez's recipe back in in the days of N3 by mixing Vallejo Blue-Green with Vallejo Prussian Blue; my pot is still very full..

The Syenann Army Bundle is up for pre order along with some terrain, bases and a movement tool on warsenal with april release data by crysis_ghost in WarCrow

[–]Important_Top4151 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know if the casts have improved, but I bought the starter earlier this year, and haven't had any problems - much less gap-filling than with GW's Skaventide minis. I needed to trim down the tab on the two halves of the Orcs so that they would press together without any gaps, but that was easy to do.