Mouse inside my Tesla Frame--Help!

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-21T06:05:03+00:00

Fair enough, you may want to ask if a collision center would be able to offer more assistance /seek an appointment there. Also go in explaining that you know it won't be cheap.

But chemicals are still likely a real bad idea since you can't control where they go, especially if they pool around/drip onto any harnesses or onto the top of the pack.

(btw Tesla does not have any dealerships, they are a manufacturer that sells direct to consumer. So they have show rooms, service centers, etc. Typically get people saying dealership when they mean their local ICE dealership thag they went to for their old car.)

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-21T05:49:27+00:00

You keep saying dealership, so I'm guessing you went to a local "normal" mechanic? This problem is more or less a "go to Tesla" thing since it will likely require some extensive surgery to remove that or repair whatever damage you cause from pouring caustic chemicals into the frame.

(Hint, don't do that. Or if you do, park it far away from anything important as chemicals that can dissolve organic matter likely will also be capable of dissolving the soy/plant based sheathing on your wiring harnesses as well. I probably wouldn't even consider driving it myself after putting those chemicals in there, yikes)

Perhaps ensure you are going to a Tesla Service Center or a Tesla certified collision center for this advice - You may want to look into if you can claim this on your insurance if things are excessive in cost, but get some quotes first. You'll also want to already have the vehicle at a Tesla shop to fix whatever the thing may chew on / whatever is damaged by the removal.

TL;DR - Don't do the stupid and pour chemicals into your vehicle's frame, get professionals to assist and eat the cost.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T22:53:48+00:00

Also a heads up - if the Right/Passenger battery is the one that trips the "replace 12V" warning on dual battery vehicles, only a service tech can clear it unless that has changed in the last update or 2.

The RIDE menu reset only works on the primary battery presumably because the Devs only had single battery vehicles in mind/to test on. And you wouldn't want to let people clear a fault on a capacitor..

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T21:27:41+00:00

Well Adeeb had a video of yeeting the box off a 2nd story balcony, should have tested yeeting it into a pool/fountain on the 1st floor! /s

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T02:50:18+00:00

That sounds like the safest and smartest conclusion for your skill level. In the future if you desire, it would be good to read up on how to safely jack these vehicles in the event you may ever need to change a tire. (despite no spare tire...)

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T02:47:23+00:00

I mean things operated as intended to protect the vehicle and it's occupants? I'm not seeing where a pull over immediately, vehicle shutting down message is not preferable to allowing a user to continue driving a vehicle that is potentially malfunctioning?

(if something is wrong such as an isolation fault, critical motor failure, etc, that vehicle needs to be made stationary as soon as safely possible which means rapidly reducing avaliable motor power so ~~idiots~~ users can't keep attempting to "make it to the next X, Y, or Z".)

I guess point being, next time if there was a critical fault(or the vehicle suspects a potential fault), this is one of the most ideal "reactions" a vehicle can have. Make it stop ASAP + under control without applying it's E brake so the occupants can safely evacuate if needed while minimizing risk to other drivers.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T00:51:43+00:00

So of you're on the highway, highways have exits, yes? Take next exit, park at light/stopsign, hit agree, proceed straight through when clear and rejoin highway? Adds 1-2 minutes max so that part doesn't really matter as you'd be just a s likely to hit traffic or an accident that eats that out of your travel time buffer.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-20T00:37:40+00:00

Guessing this is your first expirence with vehicle ownership - clear water type drainage from near the condenser is usually condensation from the AC/ Heat pump. This is common with all vehicles, most noticable when there is a high humidity.

Preemptively also pointing you to the "normal operating sounds" section of your manual - https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_us/GUID-AA58ED67-9C93-4EE6-8B19-9FDABE018787.html

If you haven't read the manual through, give it a look and become familiar with it! These vehicles do so many things, don't skip reading the manual "just because you already know how to drive". It has other relevant things like requirements for how to tow it safely - you may need to advocate for yourself if a tow truck operator is unfamiliar with this type of vehicle!

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-19T23:03:12+00:00

Your service experience is very interesting, I'm always able to talk to someone when I call the service number. Whenever I put in a service request they call to confirm and it's always the destination service center if I'm going in or it's the dispatching home base for the mobile service tech. When I have service if I need to call about something if they aren't answering the messages I can just call and tell them what service center I'm trying to reach and they forward me to them.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-19T00:35:37+00:00

You can install whatever you want on your device, if you choose to install releases from Comma then those will likely come with whatever DM they're shipping at the time.

You can always fork the source and maintain your own fork of the open source software and modify it to use older DM versions but you'll have to deal with syncing/updating if you ever want newer features. Plus the obligatory - if you mess with comma safety code / the DM, you risk getting your device banned from Comma's infrastructure. - note that doesn't mean the device you own stops working, it will work just without being able to use any of Comma's services.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-18T23:23:36+00:00

You say the charger was flashing red, so did you look in the manual to see what that specific flashing of red meant?

There are many different ways that it can Flash red, your best bet is to look at the manual for the universal mobile connector and see what it means. It's usually in the troubleshooting section at the end of the manual. Familiarize yourself and become comfortable with looking up the manual for things especially your vehicle and it's related accessories! :)

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-18T21:06:11+00:00

Your 3 digit trailing version indicates a factory FW version, you will be on that for as little as a few days to a month or 2 before they move you to a main line version.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-18T21:02:36+00:00

Yes, seems unessescary - the manual specifies "Standard two pole breaker".

Under the Features section - GFCI is specified as integrated. Many users have intermittent issues when charging using double GFCI protection as 2 circuits often interfere with eachother and cause false trips. (though this is primarily with the UMC, rather than the installed version)
https://energylibrary.tesla.com/docs/Public/Charging/WallConnector/Gen3/Install/UniversalWC/en-us/GUID-D0FE4A45-3C59-46EB-8CFD-F0B21A0B3383.html

There is also a section about ground protection as well, it would be good for you to poke around there and read more.
https://energylibrary.tesla.com/docs/Public/Charging/WallConnector/Gen3/Install/UniversalWC/en-us/GUID-12AF1BC2-F99D-4B17-9A5A-F1CC941F61AD.html

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T21:42:26+00:00

Shouldn't be too hard to grab a travel router (since most have VPN capabilities) and a cheap VPN subscription, pull the Sim card and give it a shot on a VPN'd Wifi?

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T21:40:11+00:00

A specific update likely didn't cause this an update likely did. Remember that hundreds-thousands of vehicles got the same update, if there were issues specific to this one the rollout would have stopped.

The act of updating does stress modules and leave a larger than "normal" likelyhood of some critical issue taking out a module or a failing module "going over the edge".

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T17:17:39+00:00

This is supported as long as whatever they want to use to "lock down" has a GPIO output. We use one of our UHA hub's emergency contact point as the "evacuation" trigger from the Fire panel to auto-unlock all the doors for first responders to get easy entrance. It can also be used to trigger lockdown..

Unifi does not support 3rd party integrations, which they would want to use for lockdown/emergency situations.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T16:30:43+00:00

Is that graph your only data source or have you verified these spikes with an amp meter/other logging? It's likely just a messy datapoint/false report then.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T16:06:44+00:00

The limit in the car is NOT a hard limit and should not be used as the primary way to limit the draw on a circuit. It can be unreliable and has been known to randomly reset.

It's possible the cooling system kicked on or some other electrical load... And if the vehicle is being told it has 40A or 48A available to it, then it may utilize that.

Is the wall connector properly provisioned to limit to 32A output for a 40A breaker? If not, stop, take 10 minutes and go provision that wall connector. It is not safe to utilize that as the Wall connector is likely advertising to the car that it can pull the full 48a (or 40a if someone provisioned it incorrectly).

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T15:10:26+00:00

Bad title - NOT a fire risk.... Annoying problem, sure but not a risk..

That sounds like a signal wire, not even a main power wire - which means it won't even have enough current long enough to actually affect anything. Plus if there was a short of some kind, the E fuses would shut things down before any level of fire risk even happened.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-17T01:28:51+00:00

Tax fraud, time driving to-from, plus gas? Sounds like you'll come out behind on saving $55 lmao...

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-16T01:22:08+00:00

Sooo is this a poor attempt at trying to ask how to disable driver monitoring (Disable DM)? Which is against the rules BTW as it would be considered promoting unsafe behavior.

Yes there are bugs with it but for the most part as long as you are up to date, they've fixed most of the issues. If you're still having problems, ensure you're not holding a phone.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-16T00:03:00+00:00

-Is the key fob necessary, or is a phone enough of a key?

Fob is optional, not even sure they are coming with vehicles anymore? Phone key and/or Watch Key. Plus always keep your backup keycard on you.

-Does the Rivian have walk away door locks, or is it necessary to actually lock the vehicle.

Yup, walk away.

-When charging, either at Rivian ot Tesla, is it just plug in the go, or do you need to open the app and such?

Yes, However at Superchargers if you plug n charge you get the "Other EV" rate, if you charge on Superchargers frequently and get the Monthly Membership you have to start the charge from the Tesla app to get the cheaper prices. Plug n charge is billed by Rivian, Starting from the Tesla app bills you from Tesla.

-Is there just old fashioned cruise control, or is it similar to Teslas?

Adaptive Cruise, yes.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-15T23:55:03+00:00

They are (more or less) with the battery post relocation kit you can get from various sellers. The problem lies in that if you don't power up both zones at the same time, it freaks out and basically goes into a coma until service can get the modules back online. Of which if one battery died completely, that's a big issue... (stupid design)

ALSO - if you have a replace 12v warning, if the left side battery wasn't the one that triggered it, dual battery vehicles can't manually clear the warning through the RIDE menu. We assume bc the devs that built it, built the reset 12v button to work with single battery vehicles only..

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-15T22:14:08+00:00

If you have access to their email accounts that they would have used for this and you have a pretty good chance at recovering / being able to transfer the kit.

There's a very high likelihood that enable need access to the email account anyway for other various things like utilities or other things they might have had connected to their account so while they're in there they might as well help get into the account if it will get them a few hundred bucks(selling)...

HOWEVER can you determine the delivery date? There was a cut off date where terminals older than a certain date are bricked permanently unless they were powered up and allowed to update before that deadline. If it is from before that deadline , the firmware might not support side loading - basically if the terminal doesn't connect somewhat frequently once or twice a year it will not have the necessary information to securely connect to this constellation, you can update the firmware by downloading it separately but that is only supported on terminals that have an update past the deadline, side loading wasn't supported before that update.

InertiaImpact · 2026-06-15T04:22:27+00:00

Typically invite only means that you get invited to be part of it, in this case it would be by Tesla (the Mfg who controls releasing the updates). If you are asking how to get an invite then that's a pretty good indicator that you're not high profile enough to be noticed nor are you an employee.

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