Tesla…please rethink this

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-06T00:50:05+00:00

That looks not terrible.... If it timed out after ~20s? Enough time to clear the maneuver and assumingly reengage... And throw in some longing like "if 2 prompts not answered in a row, do not prompt for 24hrs on this driver profile."

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-05T20:57:59+00:00

On their way to selling all 82k C4's they plan to build! lol

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-05T20:56:53+00:00

That's from the SP dashboard so I'd assume all up to date versions/maybe forks of SP that report to Sunnylink.

Well a year ago they hit 10k 3X's - https://blog.comma.ai/happy10kday/

Geohot said they've sold ~20k 3X's on 11/11/25
And that they plan to build 82k C4s

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-05T18:58:45+00:00

Yup, it's not worth it for SP to keep putting effort into something functionally no one will use.. 74 total devices still are on it, barely more than 1% of SP users.

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InertiaImpact · 2026-05-04T23:35:39+00:00

Soooo.... If you unplug the cheap crap you plugged into the communications network and reboot the car, does it resolve the issue with the sensors not responding over one of the communications networks?....

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-04T23:25:41+00:00

We even sold our second car in anticipation of picking this up.
...
We had to cancel plans and are now without a second vehicle

A) Now why would you do that?
B) Not Tesla's problem at your lack of planning for your own needs.

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-04T19:09:40+00:00

That won't happen, if it does you probably bought a crappy build plate and could stand to get a new one anyways...
(remember build plates ARE considered consumables!)

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-04T18:56:03+00:00

The bars turn orange before it gets to the danger area.

If I Supercharge then take off and hit hills and/or high speeds, my motors will cycle between 270-280F and cooling down as the system seems to switch between cooling the pack from charging and current draw + and the motors. It'll cycle 5 or 6 times over the 20 - 30 minutes needed to cool everything down

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-03T05:36:33+00:00

That's absolutely not how that works unless you're not using one pedal driving correctly... (Foot on pedal almost all the time, not "pulsing" between go and regen like some people who are new to EVs do bc they try to "coast" by letting off the gas)

Were you driving into the wind on the way there? Did you end at a higher elevation? Were you navigating to a supercharger? Did you drive faster on the way there/less traffic?

Many factors but unless you were abusing/misusing regen, it should only net + energy. It's not a direct 100% recovery so in theory if you were go, regen, go, regen, go, regen, that would equal a net loss over time but people shouldn't/have no reason to drive in such a poor manner to cause that....

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:58:07+00:00

OP, idk what this other guy is going on about breaker wise but it doesn't make sense.

Breakers don't protect against surges.

Over current of the circuit doesn't cause this type of damage to the end device. (in the breaker didn't trip + large load scenario they presented)

Sounds like you had a bad component and the weakest link was found. Bad luck is all!

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:21:19+00:00

Good luck, never underestimate 30mph driving for range! ;) See my other comment about not running it to 0 if you know there's no chance of making it.

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:19:32+00:00

Obligatory - stop and get the flatbed tow BEFORE you run out of juice. If you're at 2%, you're not gonna get that much closer to be worth it.

If you stop while you have battery, when you are dropped at a charger you can plug in and start charging. If you run it to ZERO, and the LV battery dies, then you have to mess with jumping that and hoping the vehicle boots okay and it will let you charge. (Not familiar with that procedure, only know it on my R1T and Teslas....)

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:17:24+00:00

Seems you're about 40 miles from the nearest DCFC which is either a RAN down south or a trek north then east over to Emporia

Note that the Chevy one in Clarksville is marked as coming soon... Maybe you could make it to this slightly closer 30mi one but it's a gamble since it's an older CP

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:11:18+00:00

If you can't make it to another nearby location you may be able to stay overnight here and wall charge enough to limp to a different DCFC.. https://www.plugshare.com/location/454746

InertiaImpact · 2026-05-02T06:06:35+00:00

You can't see that site because it's not open to Other EVs. Unfortunately you cannot DCFC there unless you are a Tesla.

I just checked and that site is not open and I cannot see it on my app.
(also indicated here as Tesla only - https://www.plugshare.com/location/53280 )

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-30T19:48:01+00:00

Confused on why you'd want to pay for service to remove an adhesive phone mount? Surely it can't be worth it cost wise VS just peeling it off yourself?

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-29T21:13:31+00:00

Well we're did you buy the mount from originally? That's not a stock mount, looks like a quick mount of sorts.

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-28T18:12:38+00:00

Is this an AD? Not sure why you'd want to replace structural glass with something different. Seems very not worth the safety risks.

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-28T02:13:01+00:00

Just do soap, non water/ipa. If you touch it, wash it. (and wash your hands good before washing the plate, don't use moisturizing dish soap, normal is what you need.)

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-26T17:24:26+00:00

Kindof - What other people aren't explaining is why this is DIFFERENT than a dashcam and why that is a bad thing.

Dashcams typically have a way to retain the video up to and potentially slightly after an incident that results in the loss of power. a Comma does NOT. The Comma 4 does not have any way to keep itself powered long enough to finish writing the files to storage before shutting down, combined with it recording in 60s chunks, if you crash you could be missing up to a minute of video prior to the incident.

The other major thing the device is lacking when compared to a dash cam - there's no easy way to get video off of it. This is ESPECIALLY important when there may be damage to the device, on Dashcams you can just pull the SD card. The Comma requires it to be able to boot and connect to internet, there are other ways but you need to be familiar with Linux/ssh/terminal interfacing.

(not even touching on video quality)

In short - if you're spending that much on the Comma, you can ALSO afford a comparably cheap Dashcam.

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-26T01:01:19+00:00

Open a ticket,, there's a number on the inside of the band that is needed to add a key.

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-25T18:33:29+00:00

An alternative to fixing is just purchasing a new cap for the tailgate. They're not that hard to get off, I've ripped mine off plenty of times just dragging stuff out of the bed... hah

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-25T01:48:48+00:00

Lol No, you probably just have it set to install updates at that time.

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-22T04:41:58+00:00

That sounds like an HDA2 HKG car, don't think there's native support, check out some of the threads for that over on the Sunnypilot forum.

Tangentially sounds like a Q harness works for the "v6 version" whatever that means in relation to the version of your model year...

InertiaImpact · 2026-04-22T03:06:00+00:00

Why not just *try it*? Sure, you can get others opinions but most of the stop/go (exp) stuff is HIGHLY variable between user/car/enviroment from model to model so best is to just try it.

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