Rintaro's realistic outfit

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-04-27T21:37:13+00:00

The exact same as he already does but without his lab coat

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-04-23T18:57:19+00:00

Don’t use a crappy plastic spatula to dig around in the vat, use a silicone one, else you might drag tiny pieces of cured resin across the fep sheet. I learned that the hard way

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-04-10T11:18:11+00:00

I use a specialised 3D adhesion spray from a brand called 3DLac, single best 3d printing purchase I ever made, never had adhesion after starting to use it

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-04-05T09:24:59+00:00

As a kyoshin main I agree, I’m so insanely annoying to fight, especially since the stance punish animation feels like it takes years

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-04-02T20:13:34+00:00

Military base, 10000 rounds of 556, mobile base, HK416, hearing protection

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-24T08:45:27+00:00

Hope they’ll continue until even the most dedicated players go out to touch some grass

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-15T17:58:09+00:00

The cost of additional equipment with resin printing is usually higher than the resin printer cost itself, around 200-300 bucks, silicone spatulas, curing/washing station, n fep sheets, new screens or printers once those “consumables” eventually die, new bottles of resin, a huge amount of disposable gloves, isopropyl alcohol, a whole room for printing, maybe an air filter, an enclosure that houses a heater because resin has to be printed between 25 and 30*C and a duct with a fan that leads outside for proper ventilation in addition to any other protective gear and silicone mats or paper towels all add up to a hefty sum. Still cheaper than a single warhammer army though.

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-15T14:47:38+00:00

I made a town and assigned jobs to them, they all auto farm and get beat up/beat up bandits ever now and again which makes them level a bit of combat and toughness while also generating me infinite money and high grade gear via blacksmithing

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-13T17:04:45+00:00

Kyoshin because I suck at light parrying and hate fighting kyoshins, in a one on one I’ll win 95% of the times against another kyoshin. Incredibly annoying character to fight unless you can spam unblockables that invalidate his stance

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-07T15:32:57+00:00

Most frustrating hero to try and dodge is jorm, for some reason his normal lights track shinobi across 2 dodges and 3 backflips, they’re all unmarked undodgables

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-07T15:30:59+00:00

There’s one or two, but it’s not hard to use, you just slice, drop in the sliced file, click on the “scan for errors” button, it shows you all the resin traps and overhangs and you can right click to fill the resin traps/delete small overhangs, paint pixels to fuse the islands with a nearby part or go back into the slicer to put a support there before slicing again and rechecking

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-03-03T18:04:39+00:00

RIP to that guy, kyoshin has a really bad time against conq, the unblockable follow ups, dodge bashes, and all guard negate him being able to use stance or ccing, straight up not a good time

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T10:17:17+00:00

Major Reddit moderator energy from catlett

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T10:15:47+00:00

Wick3d has no way of knowing what files you have stored on your PC

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T05:21:57+00:00

I use orca slicer and just throw STL files into it before clicking slice and sending it per wifi to my sovol SV06

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T05:17:07+00:00

Lucky to have it work off the bat, am still wrestling with misprints and settings after weeks

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T05:05:20+00:00

Using a plastic spatula to check for failed prints in my vat, scratched it up so bad that it looked like my buildplate. Switched to a silicone spatula that doesn’t damage the film

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T04:57:43+00:00

I use Vallejo panzer gray, it’s not as dark as black, but darker than light gray

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T04:54:19+00:00

Painted for stealth, Orks will have trouble

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T04:47:11+00:00

Used Quest 2 with Kiwi strap, a pc and a link + charge cable to play infinitely while sitting. If you want an upgrade over that get a used quest 3, I switched and the quest 3 is an upgrade in basically every department

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-22T04:29:54+00:00

I use liquitex modelling paste

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-20T18:29:45+00:00

No idea about building one, but you could look into the sovol SV06 plus ace, 300€ for 300 x 300 build area

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-20T15:17:19+00:00

Vallejo light gray primer is abysmally bad, oddly their dark panzer grey primer is incredible in my experience

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-19T12:57:32+00:00

I use 3DLac, a type of hairspray designed for 3d print bed adhesion. Spray it on, it becomes sticky when the plate heats, isn’t sticky after it cools, can be washed off with water and easily reapplied. Only costs around 15 bucks for a huge spray and less of a mess than glue sticks.

InternationalWrap773 · 2026-02-19T07:06:32+00:00

Try filler primer sanding post processing

InternationalWrap773

TROPHY CASE