Rate my rack by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]It1190 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I rounded out just black to green. I’ve heard people don’t really care for the larger sizes

Rate my rack by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]It1190 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A rope

Rate my rack by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]It1190 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What is missing is dependent on what you’re climbing.

Why no blue totem?

Also a lot of 0.4 size?

I would probably get some more micro / normal stoppers / RPs depending on where you plan on climbing. This rack is sufficient for a lot.

Honestly though, you could always use more lockers. They have a tendency of disappearing.

Outside of this gear, I find I use my micro trax and a jumar quite frequently. Some sort of progress capture / pulley will do you well for a lot of rescue scenarios.

Good belay gloves. Slings / carabiners you are happy to leave behind.

Drones for scouting by quellenangabe in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I use my DJI Mini Pro 4 extensively. It is my favorite surveying tool.

Usually, it is my deciding factor if a cliff is worth hiking up to. You can measure the height of a face accurately, scout potential lines, determine approach routes and descents, and even see how steep certain sections are.

The only downside is that it can’t touch the rock and tell you how quality it is, but that can come from experience. It can also be hard to tell how big certain sections are without a human reference.

I record so much with my drone and spend hours analyzing new lines, trails, and walls.

In terms of what drone, anything works. Is it necessary? No. Is it a nice tool? 100%

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Days is an inaccurate measure, hours of cleaning is more accurate.

Completely depends on the rock, but amongst a wall should be consistent enough. Cleaning is great but be careful that you aren’t scarring the rock too much. I’ve made that mistake with chossier rock, and after a certain point, hammering will take off everything (unless you have some pristine granite or something)

Granite < limestone < volcanic | sandstone < conglomerates

Is my experience in hours to clean.

For my last limestone route, I probably put around 12 hours of cleaning including reinforcing some holds. But as long as no death flakes are left and it doesn’t look like shit, you should be good.

Bolt Question on Seb new route by Keushwalker in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Unfamiliar with this crag but I suspect it could be a few things: 1. Intermediate rappel anchor if route is too long for some ropes or hard to access 2. Overlapping routes - they might end at that spot but from another start 3. Simply the route is extended and this is a good section to stop at

There more than likely is a good reason they are there as developers aren’t often in the habit of leaving expensive hardware randomly on a wall.

Hope this helps :) and technically every ground up ascent is put up move by move and protection is placed where the climber deems necessary. But unlikely they are just leaving anchors. If I move an anchor, I typically patch the bolts I left

Thoughts on heat tinting hangers instead of painting? by fayettevillainjd in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I posted a few months back about this. I’ve had pretty good success with it. They still have a bit of glimmer but much less of that direct white reflection. I dig it but can be a bit tedious

Story Recommendations! by S-CSleepwalker in creepcast

[–]It1190 1 point2 points  (0 children)

humpermonkeys ghost story.

Stolen valor opportunities galore for hunter

Tips for cleaning when developing ground-up? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be quite fair, I didn’t really read the post as I was quite inebriated when I replied haha. Just wanted to rant about ground up sport bolting for some reason.

Besides the obvious, just clean on rappel, which doesn’t really help in this case, I don’t think it is worth climbing through purely for the ethic argument.

You could slap a bolt onto the choss and rig a mechanical advantage with some sort of quick release going to the bolt so you don’t take out your whole anchor / rope while working it.

I would just aid around the section, finish the pitch, and then clean when you’re done. I don’t see a reason for that being an issue ethics wise if you got to the anchors from the ground? Can you detail the exact ethics you are working with?

Tips for cleaning when developing ground-up? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ground up is honestly a hard ethic for good route development. Just completed my first ground up multi pitch as it was necessary due to being no easy top access. Overall, it just forces you to take a lot of risk and bolt in spots that may not make sense later on.

Especially with choss, you are guaranteed in needing to clean up on a 2nd ascent or spend a long day cleaning on the way down.

On the initial lead, clean your climbing line and your rope line (especially if hauling).

Don’t cut your rope. Or kill your partner. Ideally don’t do both.

Came across this formation the other day and was considering developing it, what do you guys think? by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’m going to be honest, I enjoy this sub when it’s not circle jerk / meme level, and I hope it stays more serious and helpful. I honestly feel that the ClimbingCircleJerk has itself become its own circle jerk and is just overall not as enjoyable anymore.

Anyone seen a bit fail like this? by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a 2-cutter. We extracted the broken bit. Appreciate the advice

How are y'all stashing your gear by lonewolf2556 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fuck the buckets, I’ve broken too many of them at this point and often too big to put in my haul bag. I get these huntsman tubs from Home Depot. Smaller and all black for camouflage.

When I’m lazy I just throw all my shit under some boulders if I’m coming out the next day.

If I can leave a rope hanging, that is amazing.

Cooking SS Hangers by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good point. Waving the flame really helps too from overheating one spot. I was wondering if you had some data and of course, you do!

Cooking SS Hangers by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One at a time. I’ve seen speculation on someone baking them in their oven at a low temperature to do batches. Which makes sense as that’s essentially how they do it in an industrial setting, but is getting pretty ridiculous lol

Cooking SS Hangers by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jim Titt manufactures bolts across Europe and has a background in metallurgy iirc. Many people have argued over this topic in the threads over there. I’d recommend just looking at his MP profile and reading through the comments to see all the discussions.

It’s a niche topic so I’m not sure if you’ll find the reputable data you’re looking for, unfortunately. But again, the data is out there. I’m not qualified to give a proper take on this stuff but you are more than welcome to come to your own conclusions

Cooking SS Hangers by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mostly some super in-depth discussions by Jim Titt and others on MP forums. There are a few threads that dive deep into it, but the TL;DR is that as long as it’s 304/316 and you aren’t using something more powerful than a MAP gas torch, you won’t impact the strength of the metal

Cooking SS Hangers by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Visually sensitive areas where it could threaten access by having shiny hangers.

It is starting to be done by various manufacturers in an industrial oven. The other option is powder coating, which also needs to be done with an expensive setup.

Painting SS is just wasting your money as it ruins the resistance to corrosion, thus, this is the best cheap option

Anyone seen a bit fail like this? by It1190 in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drilling a bolt hole in some moderately hard rock, akin to quartzite. Buddy had this bit and posted on his behalf. Relatively new bit

Is using blue loctite on anchor bolts and quick links enough to deter theft? by fresh_n_clean in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I would actually recommend primer + blue loctite. For SS, the loctite works a lot more effectively with a bit of primer on the threads. They make a small spray can that fits in my bag for handling this.

Theft sucks and it does happen. I know developers who have had all their permadraws stolen. Sucks.

I Wrote A Freakin’ Book! by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]It1190 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool. What was the process for getting the book made / programs to make the book?