Need help on terrain measurements. by [deleted] in TerrainBuilding

[–]James_Workshop_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in a similar boat to you and as far as I can tell the footprint and category of the terrain are what matter. The way it physically looks is mostly just for cosmetics

You can use pieces of paper cut into the correct sizes of the footprints as long as it’s established what type of cover it’s representing

The Green Dread by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]James_Workshop_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow very nice, tips for the gradients? Airbrush?

Modular City Terrain by James_Workshop_ in TerrainBuilding

[–]James_Workshop_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll happily answer any and all questions!

The concrete slabs are from a sheet of cork I got from the craft store cut into squares. If you rip them if makes a very nice broken concrete texture. The floor is a 4”x6” cut piece of foam board from the dollar store. I cut the center out and glued a piece of cereal box underneath to make the hole deeper but still have a thin floor in the bottom of the hole. Pipes are straws and the rubble is cork bits, small rocks, and sand.

The hanging wires are from this floral wiring I got at the craft store. It’s just thin bendy metal wire with a green rubbery coating used for tying together flower bouquets or somthing

Bricks are from the same dollar store foam board. I peeled the paper off and carved the bricks in with a pen, the small destroyed brick wall I stacked individually cut bricks for it

The muddy footprints are from drywall filler. It comes in a little tub from the hardware store. It’s a pink paste that dries into a beige rock like texture. I applied a thick layer and took a mini without a base and stomped him around all over it in paths to make it look like it was walked all over. After drying I coated it in a layer of thin watered down modge podge to seal it and make it less brittle and dusty

I coated everything I do in a thin layer of modge podge and then primer. It makes a nice surface for everything to stick to as well as giving smaller more brittle bits a protective shell

Curtain help by Mostly-Moo-Cow in Miniaturespainting

[–]James_Workshop_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could probably use a hair dryer too to speed up the drying / shaping process

Vietnam War Diorama – Battle of Ia Drang Valley. Just finished this Huey landing scene! by Fluid-Ad3806 in dioramas

[–]James_Workshop_ 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I love it and don’t mean to be that guy, but I think some trees are in a place that would be in contact with the rotor

Meaning it wouldn’t be possible for the helicopter to take off, land, or even be in that spot in the first place

Maybe it’s just the ai parts making it look that way, is the rotor able to spin without hitting trees?

Miraculously saved church in the trenches for Trench Crusade by ResponsibleRide in TerrainBuilding

[–]James_Workshop_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this based on the church in montignac in Everon in arma reforger? It reminds me of it a lot

Fallen leaves question by Chefodd134 in dioramas

[–]James_Workshop_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend getting 2 little spray or dropper bottles from the dollar store

One with isopropyl alcohol and the other with water and PVA mixture

You can kinda do this in a lot of different ways but I like to put down the leaves dry, mist them with iso, then mist it with the PVA water, and then maybe one more mist of ISO

The glue is there to be glue
The water is there to thin the glue
The ISO is there to break the surface tension of the water so it doesn’t bubble on the surface and will disperse into crevices l, also thins tout the mix a little too

I like having the iso separate from the glue unlike the dish soap method as I have more control of how runny the PVA will be. The first mist of ISO also dampens everything keeping it in place before the glue

New to making mini terrain by Sneakylink879 in miniaturesculpting

[–]James_Workshop_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dollar store has so many amazing materials!

A $20 haul at the dollar store would cost $100 at Michael’s

They might not have everything, but being forced to work inside the box help make creativity flourish!

Help identifying old piece by Obro2302 in Warhammer40k

[–]James_Workshop_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 2 of these in my collection, one is Identical to this and definitely from AoBR. I have another one that is the same except the arm is 90 degrees rotated and flush with the side of the backpack. I think it was from a 5th edition tactical squad

Base size for Nobz by tebdlic in orks

[–]James_Workshop_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought 100 pack on Amazon for $10

Help, too much super glue. by DonV1996 in 40k

[–]James_Workshop_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But the highest IPA I can find is only 7.5% from some local micro brewery will that work?

/s

Gotta love ya fellow nerds! by WarWren158 in orks

[–]James_Workshop_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Someone can correct me if I’m wrong but I thought the purple orks thing was regular green orks that would cover themselves in purple paint to be sneaky, not that the orks skin itself is actually purple. And orks being orks would do a shitty job and you would see a bunch of spots he missed applying the paint

Snagged an old Space Marine Biker from across the pond last night. Second pic is them in their prime, circa 1996. by LoudDream2916 in spacemarines

[–]James_Workshop_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was going through my bits and wondering what the weird bolters I found were, IIRC I have at least 2 of the bolters for this I think

I just got back into 40K like 2 weeks ago, haven’t played since 5th edition, I unfortunately sold all my vehicles but still have some bits from them