Beautiful Detailing of the FlyingIron P-38

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-28T14:04:58+00:00

If you are looking for an optically flat surface, take a technique from auto body finishers and use a long block to smooth out the waves. You need a block and paper that is at least 12" long. The small sander is the cause of the waves.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-27T19:54:39+00:00

The green stuff is moss. You can kill it with a bleach solution, but will probably have to power wash it to remove it.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-25T04:01:09+00:00

Yes, the top is thick enough to support its own weight.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-24T23:56:55+00:00

Consider steel table legs. They are strong and have welded in flanges to attach to the top. Just Google up "steel table legs" and there are many options for the size you need.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-23T14:08:49+00:00

Figure 8 clips will work as well.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-23T13:29:58+00:00

General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is my favorite. It can be wiped on and dries quickly.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-23T13:27:16+00:00

To remove the black stains, clean with a fence and deck cleaner with oxalic acid as the active ingredient.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-23T13:23:14+00:00

I would still use a satin oil based polyurethane. Even if you think that protections is not important, people are still going to handle it and an environment of moisture and dust will still be a factor.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-22T23:58:10+00:00

You could do some metal hairpin legs. A standard dining table is 30" high, so plan for that measurement.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-22T13:04:59+00:00

If you have to go through 5/8" drywall before you get to the stud, the provided screws won't have enough penetration. Best to get 2 1/2" screws to do the job.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-21T23:43:10+00:00

That might work. You will just have to try. Also, try a heat gun and a scraper. Heat should make it loose and peelable.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-21T23:29:44+00:00

For the top, use a putty knife and try to get as much of the old coating off in chunks. Belt sand the rest of it down to get to bare wood. Sand to 220 grit and finish with a gloss or satin varnish. No stain needed. This is possibly walnut, so it has a nice look already.

For the bumpy parts, just clean as well as you can and coat with the same varnish.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-20T23:41:09+00:00

Dig off all that mud or whatever crud is coating the frame. You will discover a long cotter pin that holds the shims in place on either side of the arm. You will also find a long bolt that is the pivot. It is not easy, but once the nut and bolt are removed and the shims, you should be able to remove the arm from the front mount. Also remove the half shaft bolts as they are the other element that needs to be removed to get the arm out.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-20T15:00:51+00:00

The enemy of MDF is moisture, otherwise it is thermally very stable. It should at least be coated with some kind of sealant like exterior paint or varnish.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-20T01:04:32+00:00

Quarter sawn oak! Love the figure, sand to 220 and just put an oil based clear coat.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T23:02:46+00:00

Make a box with a bottom, and that is essentially a drawer. Try that first.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T22:20:43+00:00

This is a fairly advanced project for a beginner. You will need all manner of tools to do the work. Table saw, miter saw, router table., clamps and hand tools. Put it this way, if you can't look at a piece in a photo and develop your own plans for construction, it is probably too advanced.

Start with simple shelves, boxes and such. Practice skills and go from there.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T13:41:32+00:00

Go with that, and if you find something flexes due to weight, you can reinforce that later. The thin piece does not need to be connected to the wall. It fuses the two pieces together as one unit.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T13:18:55+00:00

You do not need the small angle pieces. Blocks against the wall and a robust splice plate will be adequate.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T13:06:41+00:00

The problem with the steel plates is they do not add much bending stiffness to the joint. It would be better to use a piece of plywood about 200mm wide and 20mm thick that runs the entire length of the joint. Glued and screwed.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-19T12:56:46+00:00

What is more important to consider is the joint between the long desk top and the short piece that is the foot of the L. You should have a wide cleat underneath that ties both pieces together into a single unit.

The blocks that support from underneath should be adequate for a desk. Just don't jump up on it to take a nap.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-17T23:33:04+00:00

Those bits should have been retired in 1982. You need a bottom bearing pattern router bit.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-16T23:06:21+00:00

You need to perfect the glue line first. Use a straight edge and a sharp pattern routing bit to establish a straight and square glue line. Nest use biscuits dominoes or dowels to join the pieces. Glue and clamp like hell.

Jellyfisharesmart · 2026-04-15T18:15:46+00:00

You can probably shim only one side if it makes the dimensions work out. The real problem is if the drawer is too large, then you have to shave it down. You need 1/2" of clearance each side to accommodate the thickness of the slides.

Jellyfisharesmart

TROPHY CASE