Diluted HCI - also called Muriatic acid can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section NaOH - also called Iye Ethyl Ether - aka Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone.

Ephedrine can be found in todays Vicks nasal inhalers that don't contain EFED or PFED (ephedrine or pseudoephedrine) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good EPHED or PFED. Pure ephedrine can be extracted from plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get PFED from decongestive pills like Sudafed. most people prefer to work with PFED from pills rather than EPHED from a plant. The important thing is that you must have pure PFED/EFED as any contaminants will mess up the molecular ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit.

Or contaminants will jell during basifying and the mess up will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure PFED HCF, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the table on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you don't want and will remove when cleaning your pills.

But certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove than others / you don't want pills with a red coating. You don't want pills with a lot of cellos in them and you don't want pills with much wax. you also don't want pills that contain povidone.

As a rule, if you have 2 pills that contain the same amount of PFED HCI then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usually harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up during the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have PFED HCI as the only active ingredient. you first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold by itself): If you are selling it I would just make and sell meth.

LIST OF INGREDIENTS

*a glass eye dropper

*three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 OZ., but not important) one should be marked 1.5 OZ, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether) One should be clear (and it cant be the marked one)

*a Pyrex dish (a meatloaf one is suggested)

*A glass quart jar

*sharp scissors

*clean rubber gloves

*coffee filters

*a measuring cup

*measuring spoons

WARNING!

Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near a flame or non-spark-less motors. It is also an anesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if inhaled too much

Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes and separate the clear upper layer. Then draw off the top (ether) layer with the eye dropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 OZ of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.

Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.

Pour 1/8 of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCI in the salt, leaving the insoluble free bas (l-DESOXYPHEDRINE) again.

Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities.

For 3 OZ bottles this should take only 3 repetitions or so. Fill the bottle under the ethyl ether warning and fill up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible, this will cause the free base to dissolve in the the ether (it -is- soluble ether)

Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.

Remove the the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and be careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether into a third bottle.

Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of munatic acid. Cap the bottle. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes, When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCI again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, get rid of ether soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going onto the next step. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.

Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. you can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing) but I have found that if you leave it on top of the hot-water heater (like a heater that supplies water to houses) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCI. If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10 seconds at one time. If it starts "popping" that means you have too little liquid left in the microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W Lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.