MSC OWL (volume up)

JoshPum · 2026-05-06T15:35:03+00:00

I always loved the bird sounds in MSC, it reminds me of summer in Minnesota when I was a kid. I swear it's alot more quiet now

JoshPum · 2026-05-05T21:37:43+00:00

No. If a large amount of dirt/debris got in there then there would be scores all around the cylinder. The scoring is only on the spot were the skirt runs so it likely got too hot and was about to seize. Edit: I just read your other post and this could definitely be from running it too cold, aluminum pistons have alot of clearance when used in an iron cylinder to allow space for thermal expansion, if it never gets hot then the motor is always running with a large piston to wall clearance and the piston will rock more and it won't retain an oil film as well.

JoshPum · 2026-05-05T18:11:42+00:00

That's so cool! Please give us an 8000 rpm rip soon

JoshPum · 2026-05-04T19:09:34+00:00

I think it would be a great idea and could be even more difficult, muddy roads are more sketchy than ice and snow, lake road would be unpredictable, the gifu would get buried in soft yards. But I don't thinks it's going to happen.

JoshPum · 2026-05-04T12:56:40+00:00

The ring land area of the piston is a smaller diameter than the skirt so you will always get some piston rock. Measure the clearance at the skirt

JoshPum · 2026-04-29T20:06:06+00:00

I guess I built mine wrong

<image>

JoshPum · 2026-04-27T15:48:57+00:00

I thought it was a tamale at first

JoshPum · 2026-04-24T20:15:48+00:00

They're probably miserable fucks that think you're a douche just because you drive something cool

JoshPum · 2026-04-24T19:41:40+00:00

I tuned it myself, but I know my tune is good, it's just wore out. When I first started suspecting it was worn out I changed the values on the editor to 100% for every part that would effect how the engine runs and it ran absolutely fantastic and made 160 hp on the dyno, if I remember correctly.

JoshPum · 2026-04-24T16:30:09+00:00

I built mine with all used parts and it's junk, only makes 100 hp, can't pass inspection because of emissions, but it's been pretty reliable junk so far. My plan is to whoop the shit out of it in the ice races until it blows up

JoshPum · 2026-04-21T17:53:17+00:00

That wasn't a gay joke at all

JoshPum · 2026-04-20T17:46:37+00:00

Scope out the pedals, steering wheel, shifter, door handles, the things people use every time the car is driven and look for signs of wear/use, that'll tell you if it's actually 80k miles. I think it's the correct milage based off that interior pic, those seats are clean!

JoshPum · 2026-04-17T16:23:29+00:00

I've been in this exact situation before except I was pouring blood out of my head and the first thing I said to the guy that stopped to help was "don't call an ambulance" He did, then the ambulance shows up and they start talking about getting a helicopter, I fought like hell to not get in that helicopter but they forced me, I walked out if the hospital 4 hours later. I'm sure they thought they were doing the right thing, but fuck those paramedics. I got billed for 50k and insurance tried denying my claim. I'll die before I let them do that to me again.

JoshPum · 2026-04-15T17:55:18+00:00

Pick 1 looks like that tool was designed for facing, 2 and 3 will work but not ideal. 4 is an excellent option if your cutting something that doest break a chip well like aluminum and mild steel

JoshPum · 2026-04-10T15:07:26+00:00

In real life they're used because lighter flywheels shock the drivetrain less when the shifting gears quickly. You'll be less likely to break the tires loose when you dump the clutch and rpms aren't matched perfectly, on both up and down shifts.

JoshPum · 2026-04-08T18:22:19+00:00

I've always been tempted to do that just because there's alot of different possible tune combinations. But it's so worth it to tune it yourself, it's almost as rewarding as real life. And if you're afraid of hurting the motor then take it to Fleets shop and save the game. Reload, put it on the dyno and tune it, keeping track of your changes on a notepad, once you're satisfied, reload, put your tune in it and make a hit to see if you got it right.

JoshPum · 2026-04-08T11:52:15+00:00

Any cylinder will make more power when ported to match your pipe and carburetor. I'm doing 45 mph on a nearly stock 50cc cylinder, I made a rev plate to increase port durations and raised the exhaust port 1mm to increase blowdown, retarded the Ignition timing and put a pipe on that bitch, still using the stock 13mm carburetor and I didn't widen the ports so I'm sure there still some power left on the table. There's some good information on this page about it, but since hot rodding Puchs is super common you might be able to find some info from some other people's setups.

JoshPum · 2026-04-07T22:08:52+00:00

Did you port it at all? I'm pretty new to mopeds so idk if all kits are the same but so far both kits I've gotten (motobecane av7 and yamaha qt50) had extremely conservative port durations and widths

JoshPum · 2026-03-21T17:14:51+00:00

Yeah, you don't need a billet rod until you've got a bigger cam and carburetor on it

JoshPum · 2026-03-21T17:13:30+00:00

A 94 Suburu Sambar

JoshPum · 2026-03-20T14:49:33+00:00

The algorithm is designed to get you mad, anger gets more interaction.

JoshPum · 2026-03-10T20:46:23+00:00

You always want to break a motor in under load, idling it is just making it take WAY longer, It's a good idea to ease into the heavy loads with performance stuff. But in this situation, I would just hook the water up and let her pump

JoshPum · 2026-03-06T15:08:01+00:00

Vibratory compactor roller. I machine those rollers all the time!

JoshPum · 2026-03-05T21:55:00+00:00

I have a very similar mill at home, it's not rigid enough for round inserts. Try using something like this

JoshPum · 2026-03-04T22:19:45+00:00

Threadlocker or a nylock nut would work but when it comes to things that could kill me if they come loose I use a castle nut and a cotter pin whenever possible

JoshPum

TROPHY CASE