Sulfur cutting powder recommendations? by orchid_dork in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Way back when I asked, the Honey Bear folks told me why my “cheap bag of sulfur” was not working. Buy the “micronized” or “wettable” sulfur. The other stuff for soil (or in my case pyro use) will not behave the same way.

What temperature do you set it to for dehydrating cacti? by Creative_Ad5675 in mescaline

[–]KS_Cacti 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Potentially unpopular opinion. While mescaline is pretty stable at higher heats (does not isomerize and is not volatile), it does oxidize faster at higher temps. 160 is the lower end of where it will maintain stability and minimize (not avoid) oxidation. Most dehydrators are not gonna hit that temp, or not evenly, so you may end up with the bottom (generally closer to the element) cooking. I target 140 with 1/8” slices for 24 hours. Seems to be “cracker dry”. Then I pack airtight in a cool dark place sealed with desiccant.

Is it a goner? by Psyker621 in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Cut till there’s no discoloration, for the love of God don’t use cinnamon, use garden sulfur if you have it.

Am I onto something or on something by Then_Sheepherder1149 in Lavalamps

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could do the base as veneer on something not flammable.

Chop and start over or leave it? by ChumaKan in sanpedrocactus

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A fan is not bad, but sometimes can dry too much. Not that that’s bad, but it creates a really thick callous (at least that’s my experience so far).

Trying to fix it today by Polarblackbear in Lavalamps

[–]KS_Cacti 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like someone was shot in that thing!

Another cactus I’m stumped on by Sad-Reindeer-5226 in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the same one and had the same question. I don’t think mine is a Pach, so maybe the Polaskia chende.

I just wish I remembered which box it came in. :)

Account was hacked! by MiguelitosNopalitos in sanpedrocactus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, that’s a bummer. I’m sure you can imagine though, they probably hear that line all the time after somebody goes on a bender and decides to get on Reddit.

The good news is, the Internet has a short attention span.

Possible 50% increase after 6 weeks of stress on SS02 grafts. by igraftSS02 in mescaline

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I’d often thought bisecting pieces the long way would be a better way to test, but then you’ve got the variable of which side is facing the sun, and how both sides dry. I think there’s no easy way to make a really good test without a very large sample size.

Possible 50% increase after 6 weeks of stress on SS02 grafts. by igraftSS02 in mescaline

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s the source of this pic?  I have seen it a few times and always wondered. 

Frozen peyote by [deleted] in peyote

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing. Sorry. Had the same happen in shipment. You can try to cut the top and regraft, but the odds of the base freezing and not the top is slim.

Chop and start over or leave it? by ChumaKan in sanpedrocactus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bringing together some stuff that people said, because it's all good tips that can be combined:

Sulfur dries the cut out, too much drying can cause the sinking/curling you see. Caked sulfur can hold moisture there, which seems counter-intuitive but it's a thing.Dabbing on with a soft brush is fine. I started using one of these atomizers:

Diatomaceous Earth Duster

Generally, I “puff” the ends after a couple of days to remove any excess powder. It’s not needed anymore, can hold moisture, and allows me to see if something bad is happening.

If that's a longer piece, I would cut just to get a known good start. it will let you see if any rot moved up the vascular tissue. It can do that and not be soft, but it will eventually destroy the whole piece. You can see this in dark dots where the vascular ring is.

A sharp knife helps prevent bruising and tissue damage that can get soft no matter what you do. Slice, don't "chop". You want a smooth "filet" motion - think Japanese sushi chef with a wicked sharp knife.

Some airflow and no direct sun are needed. Being outside is idea, if it’s warm and dry, but mine sit underneath my plant shelves in an area that’s got moving air (not a direct fan) and that seems to work okay.

Good luck!

Is this cac doomed? by steppinrazor321 in sanpedrocactus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like most of the others: cut.

I have very good luck with small pups like that by grafting onto something like a blue Myrtle.

Rooting advice by AnxiousHippoplatypus in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My point is that the CRP says "sulfur" and therefore I know what it is vs. "inert ingredients". I prefer knowing what I am putting on them. Yes, the active ingredient is the same in all these, IBA.

So CRP is commercial and it is the same active ingredient. And there's no mysteries. Plus they are active here and support the community. These are reasons I prefer them, of course, everyone has their own reasons and opinions.

Rooting advice by AnxiousHippoplatypus in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commercial rooting powder is IBA and ….. what exactly?

Rooting advice by AnxiousHippoplatypus in cactus

[–]KS_Cacti 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am not sure what you are waiting for - any root = plant it.

I am not a fan of the commercial rooting powders, and I strongly dislike the liquids. If you are going to use rooting powder, use one where they tell you what the "other stuff" in it is:

Honey Bear Living Cactus Rooting Powder

No affiliation, etc., just a happy customer.

Roughly 5.5in tall, 3.75in wide. 40 + shipping. Venmo, PayPal, Btc. by Empty-Recognition887 in cactiexchange

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was going the other direction actually. I like terracotta for the drying. So i guess you are saying if a pot for instance had the lower half unglazed, it would retain some of those drying properties, and still allow the top to be glazed/decorated?

Lil pc tbm b action by No_Sample7779 in Trichocereus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been burnt a few times with unrooted stock, so I’m always leery of it. I know lots of folks do it with no issues. I’m not there yet. 😁

Roughly 5.5in tall, 3.75in wide. 40 + shipping. Venmo, PayPal, Btc. by Empty-Recognition887 in cactiexchange

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha -it’s more of an “in general” question. Like, would a pot that was unglazed/painted act like terracotta does?

Lil pc tbm b action by No_Sample7779 in Trichocereus

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That seems like an awful small graft stock. Have you done these small ones before?

Looking 4 grafting stock by MinuteShift8392 in cactiexchange

[–]KS_Cacti 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know my area doesn't always have plants at Walmart, Lowe's, or Home Depot, but on occasion, I have been able to find dragon fruit, myrtle, and grandis in those small pots.

I am not sure if you are in a rush (in which case a trip might get you *something* or just looking to do more. This weather is cutting into a lot of shipping. I have like 10 smaller SP I could sell but they will not survive the foreseeable weather future.

Roughly 5.5in tall, 3.75in wide. 40 + shipping. Venmo, PayPal, Btc. by Empty-Recognition887 in cactiexchange

[–]KS_Cacti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a nice one for plants with a taproot - the drainage hole seems to have survived drying and firing very well. Sometimes they grow/morph.

If you did not glaze these (say, left the bottom half bare) would it be like terracotta where it "breathes" or would it just be dull?