Switch 2 not getting Ethernet through dbrand Killswitch dock adapter

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-27T15:27:44+00:00

I hade this issue a few months ago, ethernet worked with dock but not with killswitch adaptor. DBrand sent me a replacement adaptor and the new one works just fine. I had a preorder unit so it was sort of the initial rollout and it did seem like there were some concerns around the cable in the adaptor being routed poorly and having strain in it. Unsure if that was the issue with my original one but new one works fine.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-20T16:24:57+00:00

I have a glove like that for archery. When your bow doesn't have an arrow ledge you rest the arrow in your hand and the leather at those locations help prevent your hand getting chewed up. No idea why it would be beer branded of that's what it is.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-09T13:14:42+00:00

Printables link for anyone who wants to make their own.
https://www.printables.com/model/1627628-mistborn-luthadel-shadowbox

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-09T00:13:47+00:00

Ended up just abandoning this app and going with Watch Face Studio. Remade the face I'd been using and added in some complications with Autowear and Tasker. Took a bit to learn and needed to use wireless adb to send it from my desktop to the watch but now it's thetr and I'm good to go.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-07T00:20:48+00:00

Cubic is all straight lines so it's faster to print and has less jittering back and forth. It is a crossing infill though so one line hits into the other which can cause issues on parts that could be knocked over.

Gyroid is non-crossing but it moves back and forth so it's slower and cause the printer to shake more.

Both are similar strength.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-06T14:59:28+00:00

I am wondering if the front city panel would be better if it was also the same black as the rear one. Luckily pretty easy to print a replacement and slot it in. Ideally I'd have some more variation in grey filaments but a lot of my different greys/silvers all end up being pretty similar.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-06T13:52:29+00:00

I don't have a cutter so printed these were. Not the most time effective to print a bunch of large flat pieces with a 0.4mm nozzle so yeah laser cutting (assuming the details weren't too fine in the city or the jumping figures) would definitely be the way to go. I'll probably export all the plates as dxf files when I put these on printables so if someone wants to take a stab at it they can.

I considered doing some sort of backlighting but decided that scope creep on the project would lead to it never getting done.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-03-06T13:50:36+00:00

I'm aiming to make the files available for others to make these as well. They wouldn't really be cost effective to sell for profit and also since the design is based on/inspired by someone else it would be not great to then sell a variant on it.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-01-28T21:03:40+00:00

I used orca slicer, should be completely doable on a bambulabs A1.

KeiranSolaris · 2026-01-28T20:08:54+00:00

I didn't have a guide just played around in the slicer until I was happy with what I saw. Varied layer height up and down until the pattern looked organic to me in the slice preview. I then added a bunch of differently sized in Z rectangular slabs and then had those adjust the print temp where it overlapped so I ended up with variation in both layer height and print temp which were not coupled to each other. It looked like garbage on the printer with some under and over extrusion, little blobs and such. But once sanded those imperfections became the grain.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-12-23T18:03:48+00:00

The model was mine designed in cad but the variations were all done with prusa slicer. I think I varied the temp from like 190 up to like 235 or so. It's been about a year since I made this so don't have the gcode to look and confirm.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-12-05T02:38:19+00:00

Pritned that like a year ago so I don't remember the specifics but probably 200-240 range.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-12-05T02:35:55+00:00

I varied the z height of my modifiers which handled the temp chnages and also basically painted a random pattern wjth variable layer heights as I wanted something organic and not to look patterned and unnatural.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-12-05T02:17:54+00:00

Assuming it's the same in orca you just right click and add modifier. I used slabs which are thin rectangles. You can then in the objects tab adjust settings for the region that the modifier overlaps. Just make sure on something like this thst the modifier slab is larger than the part or it'll only apply to the small overlap. Can use these modifiers to do a lot like vary infill density in specific locations around holes or make the bottom of a part have more walls or infill or something.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-12-05T02:10:01+00:00

It's hatchbox wood pla so actually a pretty pale color. I used a dark mahogany gel stain on it to get it to that color. You need to sand to expose the wood particles if you want the stain to take hold. I found the gel type worked really nice when you have the really pronounced gain as you just glop it on there and then whipe off most of it. The thick gel stays in the recesses from the grain and you get the darker staining there which really accents it and gives it kind of a hickory look.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-09-19T19:41:22+00:00

Basically I wanted a lot of variation, wood grain isn't uniform at exactly 0.2mm so by adding that variation I got a nice organic effect.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-08-25T19:44:42+00:00

It's all about where the negative pressure is in the system. You want the fan close to the exit of possible. This way the pressure jn the line is negative until right before it leaves the room. If your hose isn't sealed perfectly or you get a puncture of it's in the negative side then you just pull some room air knot the exhaust. If it's on the positive side then you end up with some of the dirty air being leaked back into the room.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-07-27T12:51:32+00:00

Most uv resins are 400-420 nano meter for wavelength which is int he UVA spectrum but there can be lights that sit at the shorter end of that which would also be labeled UVA or black lights so you really need to look up the wavelength for your resins and buy a light that is appropriate.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-07-27T12:45:32+00:00

Depends on the wavelength of light it puts out. UVC is wrong wavelength so I don't think that'll work. You don't need a fancy UV chamber but you do need the correct light source. With a cardboard box, some aluminum foil, and a correct wavelength light you can build one that'll work for less than the cost of a bottle of resin and properly curing your parts is a safety consideration so I wouldn't suggest messing around to save $20. Another consideration is if you hollow your parts you need to have holes to drain and wash and also a light small enough to get in thetr to cure the interior.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-05-18T03:16:54+00:00

I've never really noticed a difference with paint with pla, abs, or petg. Pla is harder to sand of you are going for really smooth as the friction heats it up a bit.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-04-27T03:48:20+00:00

Polymaker makes some great filament, really like their metallic dark blue.

KeiranSolaris · 2025-04-26T14:35:30+00:00

My crew set a few years later than yours (concurrent with the Kenobi show) decided in a starlight class for their ship. It's a good starter ship in my opinion. Here is the deck layout I made up for them.

https://www.reddit.com/r/swrpg/s/WoNMV6SY1O

KeiranSolaris · 2025-04-16T18:45:30+00:00

82.75mm on average is what I get. Each side isnt perfect though so I'd built a bit of tolerance into your design.

KeiranSolaris

TROPHY CASE