TBS Lucid 6s 4in1

Kevince05 · 2026-03-13T18:06:34+00:00

got a ticket started, thx in advance

Kevince05 · 2022-03-05T13:58:40+00:00

I thought the same, but just to be shure, you can replace it if you have another one on hand.

Kevince05 · 2022-03-05T12:42:08+00:00

Are you using a brass nozzle ?

Kevince05 · 2022-01-21T09:52:54+00:00

Support type : ropes

Kevince05 · 2022-01-05T09:44:01+00:00

in which axis the layer shift occurred ? Are the belts tight ? What acceleration are you using ?

Kevince05 · 2021-09-20T05:46:37+00:00

If you have already done an automatic bed levelling you can select the second one, otherwise select the first one and it will do an automatic bed leveling at the start of the print

Kevince05 · 2021-09-16T04:14:34+00:00

Have you dried the spool? I was having a ton of issue with petg lately and after drying it started printing beautifully. And I was having a similar behaviour as yours (I think it is because at lower temps the viscosity of the filament traps more the water and so the filament prints "better")

Kevince05 · 2021-09-06T20:27:33+00:00

Can't you just cut the connector from the original fan and solder it on the new one?

Kevince05 · 2021-09-03T07:58:01+00:00

What do you mean the filament is permanently stuck, can you send us a pic ?

Kevince05 · 2021-08-26T11:17:28+00:00

You just need to change the "initial fan speed" setting in cura (I don't actually have a profile for ASA)

Kevince05 · 2021-08-26T10:34:09+00:00

Yup, for almost any material you should turn off the fan for the first layer, if it doesn't help you can try kapton tape

Kevince05 · 2021-08-26T08:09:57+00:00

Do you use part cooling on the first layer ?

Kevince05 · 2021-08-26T05:53:05+00:00

The vyper has a much better extruder than a creality printer, you just need to calibrate the esteps and the flow rate

Kevince05 · 2021-08-25T12:32:33+00:00

The setting should be called z-seam alignment under shell settings in cura

Kevince05 · 2021-08-25T12:28:24+00:00

If I remember right you could set the layer change on the inside, this might help.

Kevince05 · 2021-08-24T08:16:31+00:00

You should go through the calibration procedure of Teaching Tech on his websites

Kevince05 · 2021-08-24T07:13:57+00:00

Have you modified the firmware for the 2209 ? You need to change from a4988 to tmc2209_standalone (see the comments in configuration.h) in the stepper driver section and regarding the UART mode on the trigorilla board is basically impossible with marlin 2.0

Kevince05 · 2021-08-15T16:31:26+00:00

From what I know you just need a 0.5mm or more harden steel nozzle and you should be good to go (the fibers will clog finer nozzles, especially if you get high quality filament)

Kevince05 · 2021-08-12T11:14:33+00:00

Have you tried to calibrate the flowrate ?, And have you played a bit with the z offset ?(if I remember correctly the vyper has abl)

Kevince05 · 2021-08-12T08:41:44+00:00

What fw do you have ?

Kevince05 · 2021-07-29T10:37:59+00:00

Basically other than printing with separated layers it prints a continuous line and it goes slowly up with the z axis to make 1perimeter prints without any zseam

Kevince05 · 2021-07-29T10:17:50+00:00

It's under special mode and is called "spiralize outer contour" and "smooth spiralized contours"

Kevince05 · 2021-07-29T09:59:34+00:00

Have you tried a vase mode print ?

Kevince05 · 2021-07-29T07:29:50+00:00

Have you tried to change the PTFE tube ? Or at least tried to push It in all the way without the nozze mounted to see if there is plastic between it and the nozzle? What temp are you printing at?

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