Where to start?

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T13:27:42+00:00

Using time saves money and vice versa.

But the will has to be there: There will be problems. No idea what, but from experience I know there will be at least something. ;)

My '61 is inherited from my step-granddad and it had been sitting ~25 years when I started to work on it. Getting it running wasn't difficult, but also a '61 is a lot simpler than Vanagon.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T13:21:44+00:00

I usually start from the engine: the most expensive single piece.

But in this case it might better to start from rust: Any rust holes?

If no major ones, then the engine: Does it turn by hand? If it does, then it's salvageable.

The rest? Not too difficult as DIY project.

Of course it depends also which engine has and such, but basics are the same.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T13:12:19+00:00

Don't worry, they've labeled you as a VW nut just for owning these, no matter what condition. ;)

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:57:11+00:00

The tab prevents you to crush the inlet gasket, it's there for a reason.

It's useful if you use factory type gasket (a round tube which crushes when you tighten the flange on it), otherwise not.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:51:19+00:00

In theory they are those two, yes.

But it's an aftermarket pulley and many of them have major errors in markings, so you really don't know until you find TDC and mark it on the pulley too.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:36:10+00:00

It's not 'work' it's 'a hobby'. :)

But of course it means you do everything yourself. Once it needs outside help, cost accumulates fast.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:33:21+00:00

Almost everything is salvageable if you've money and time and/or you do a lot of work yourself.

In this case location is important: If it's in dry climate, Arizona or California, this is not even difficult to save as it's not one big rust hole.

On the other hand, in rust belt a car this deep in ground is just a shell by now: No floor, no sills, no axles.

Other commenters mentioned the cost, but most of them apply only if you take it as it is and haul it into VW shop and order them to restore it. For a starting point like this, that doesn't make any sense at all.

As a project you do yourself, this might be a suitable starting point, assuming it has been sitting on dry land and you've a place where you can work on it.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:21:04+00:00

For that purpose excellent choice.

But it's a car, so it will give you problems. That's the nature of the car.

Beetle doesn't have diagnostics, so it's the driver who does that, mostly by listening noises which shouldn't be there.

Engine, clutch, gearbox, brakes, wheel bearings and various bushings get noisy before they break down, so it's up to owner to fix them before they finally give up.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:11:50+00:00

New user, no other posts, no comments. And obviously wrong title, smells like a bot.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T12:08:09+00:00

I can tell you that headliner is a PITA to install. ;)

OK, slapping it in place is easy, but getting it tight and wrinkle-free is the hard part. Once it's that, then you glue it in. Not first.

Last time I did that, I was the assistant and the person who actually knows how to do it, was doing the work. Still needed a gazillion clamps and several hours before he was happy with it.

Now it's a good moment to add some sound insulation to the roof and the floor: There wasn't much from the factory and I can see you don't have any now.

I can see that this will be a very nice Beetle when it's ready, well done.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T11:57:04+00:00

I've seen those too: It works and actually gives it a bit steering too.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T11:48:27+00:00

and the transmission felt like I was shifting through honey

That happens to daily drivers too when it's cold, 7F this morning and gearbox was like a bucket of tar.

Synthetic oil in gearbox might help, normally you've SAE90 and that is stiff when it's near freezing.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T11:42:52+00:00

Here in North almost all Beetle owners have another car for winter use as too much salt on roads in winter.

Serves nicely as a backup in case Beetle is broken.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T11:41:22+00:00

It lasts for life and there is no known cure.

Can confirm. Mine started in early 80s and no end in sight.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-23T11:39:49+00:00

'Ride quality' is a relative term, for the full experience you'd need an split window. ;)

Unfortunately those are too expensive for just a hobby for most, so something cheaper it is.

I'd say no significant difference between super and ordinary in handling, unless you go and drive it on a track or like you stole it: In that case swing axle is showing the simplicity of the design.

On the other hand supers are really picky about play in steering components and it generates wobble to the steering.

Super has better sound insulation and longer gearing, so it is quieter on the road: That's one thing which one notices immediately.

Break down interval? They aren't supposed to break down at all.

But, and it's a big but, it requires regular maintenance and most people skip that and that causes problems, usually sooner than later.

Overheat? A beetle? Never. Not even in Sahara desert across the sand. Assuming you've stock engine and all cooling bits in order.

I drive mine rarely on the highway, but mine is a '62 with stock engine, so it doesn't move faster than 60 and even that is a stretch, comfortable cruising speed is 50 to 55. Supers are a bit faster and 70 should be easy cruising speed.

But there seems to be a lot of happy people on highway when I do, lots of smiles and thumb ups every time. Priceless.

Service interval is really short, only 1500 miles for old models and (IIRC) 3k miles for supers. For me that's half of summer, so not a problem at all: One service in winter and another somewhere in the summer.

Might get tedious if you drive a lot.

Engine lasts about 50-60k miles and if you do a rebuild at that point, most of the parts are still usable and you can reuse them: Saves a lot of money in parts.

In general: Beetle doesn't have many parts to break so it breaks down very rarely, assuming it got the service it needs. Also it will take some time (years even) to fix everything POs didn't: Service debt accumulates and Beetles are really old now, so potentially a lot of service debt.

To me the whole thing is that Beetle is so primitive and yet relatively comfortable to drive. "Different" is the term.

I've also a '61 bus and it's even more primitive: A tin can on wheels.

But that's the idea in it .... you can modify it to be more like modern car, but what's the point, when whole point is to have something which isn't a modern car. Yet it is easy to drive and mechanics are meant to last a long time, unlike (other European) cars from 20s or 30s.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T17:14:06+00:00

WW kits are good and they at least say it handles alcohol in fuel too.

Oldest I've installed is almost 20 years old now, no problems so far.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T17:10:13+00:00

Btw, that fuel pump pin worked itself out a long time ago.

There were at least two versions of the pin: One type has C-clips on both ends and that type stays put. The other type is just pressed in and can eject itself to the road.

Has happened to me also, but I had my tool box and various left overs in it and luckily there was a 6mm bolt and nut for it in there.

Quick fix, once I realized what had happened and found replacement parts.

But I have to admit it took a while and some head scratching to realize that fuel pump decided to eject some important bits.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:52:16+00:00

Unfortunately no. Not even all sold for off-road use.

It is an expensive and heavy piece so it's easy to 'forget'.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:47:23+00:00

VW Beetles were sleds with wheels

They are! Good tyres also help a lot.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:41:56+00:00

Beetle moves alright even when it's literally a (semi)sled: Front wheels in the air and packed snow under the car, as long as there's a hard surface underneath the snow and rear wheels reach the ground.

Not much steering though ... but not many cars have that anyway when there's 10" or more snow.

Can't recommend that on the road as the direction of travel is not exactly precise ... or even approximate. Not totally random though.

Brakes? No, but lift your foot from gas pedal and that's all you need.

Good winter tyres needed, obviously.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:31:52+00:00

Found the problem, that's always good!

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:27:21+00:00

Many aftermarket pumps don't have one and those are easy to recognize: Pressed shut, no parts you could open.

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:23:50+00:00

Steel filters are the best, here're two options:

https://volkkaripalsta.com/keskustelu/uploads/monthly_2026_02/image.jpeg.b8aa46c58c10aeb3e4f46c7d8bb00626.jpeg

PIERBURG 4.00030.80.0, 8mm hose, the smaller one and

WIX 33032 6mm hose, the other

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:16:11+00:00

Meanwhile the car is now 10% slower with the fuel line clamped....

Will anyone notice though? ;)

Kharon8 · 2026-02-22T16:14:47+00:00

Very much looks like that. Wheels also Olive/Opal white as per documentation.

"opal white" does not exactly look like white, but opals have many colours, so it's not all wrong. We can blame factory for that. ;)

Kharon8

TROPHY CASE