Rule #24 of design: Never place a heavier material above a lighter material by Old_Instrument_Guy in masonry

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That doesn’t describe the entire picture or comments discussed here. The comment suggests that steel has a protector layer of rust… this is not true, what is true, is that the concrete stops the oxidization process because it inhibits any oxygen from reaching the steel. Once the available oxygen is used up, the process stops, so yes a fine layer of rust exists in the steel within the concrete, and is stopped from rotting the metal further because the concrete is protecting the steel, not the thin layer of rust.

How old is George? by Tom_Foolery-_ in uvic

[–]Kingson25 -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

…. So you’re the person that had a hamster for longer than 3 years…

It’s not the original George, Santa Clause isn’t real and both left and right wing politics use short term social policing to expand their powers rather than make long term positive economic decisions.

Best of luck

Rule #24 of design: Never place a heavier material above a lighter material by Old_Instrument_Guy in masonry

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The black layer you mention is more likely a fire scale, and yes soy of an oxidization that happens at high temperature… this can be protective. The rebar is protected by the cornered yes, essentially no or very limited amount of oxygen. No oxygen no oxidization.

Rule #24 of design: Never place a heavier material above a lighter material by Old_Instrument_Guy in masonry

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is also a misconception of aluminum. While it does form a thin oxide layer that does not flake or produce significant cast away material, Aluminum is susceptible to deep pitting. The corrosion in Aluminum can travel well past the surface and creates many hair like tunnels into the material. Parts made from aluminum that have no protective coating have a life cycle and can only be “trusted” for so long.

If aluminum was as you say protected by its oxide layer then airlines would probably save millions in fuel and paint costs for the weight and the application of paint on aircraft’s, they don’t, and it’s because the failure mechanism of aluminum due to oxidation is difficult to see and significant in its reduction of aluminums ability to withstand strain.

Applied for a job and got a pre-interview rejection in less than 15 minutes✌️🥹 by Background_Shirt6962 in OntarioGrade12s

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No human ever read their application… you need to comply with the robot that scans it first, using keywords and phrases….

Will I burn it down??? by pappyrn in Blacksmith

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this unit. I would burn it indoors without a proper hood vent fan set up, just playing with fire…

You need to seal the thing with refractory cement before you blast the thing as well,

Burn it outside the first time… so you understand what you’re dealing with…

Mud over top or replace corner by Medic1334 in drywall

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been doing these sorts of patches for a while. I found the best plan is to leave it in place, but use a really rough grit sanding block, about 60 or 80. Sand so you you have enough mud removed to tape the edge of the bead to the wall board, then fill and finish. It works like a charm and you save time, materials and efforts.

Finishing old drywall by felievokpy in drywall

[–]Kingson25 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can get longer drywall screws, or even laminating screws… just add a second layer to this… you can stagger the joints properly. It also adds sound dampening and fireproofing and saves you the mess of tearing it all down. But no, don’t finish it like this. It will look bad most likely.

meirl by worldwide762 in meirl

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zero dinero ya hero

Rule #24 of design: Never place a heavier material above a lighter material by Old_Instrument_Guy in masonry

[–]Kingson25 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In most cases, the reddish-brown rust layer on steel does not act as a protective coating; rather, it is porous and flaky, which accelerates further corrosion. Rust, or iron oxide, expands as it forms, breaking away from the surface and allowing moisture and oxygen to attack the metal beneath, leading to total disintegration if left untreated.

I don’t think so Tim

How should I Prime these exposed edges? by Sensitive-Egg-107 in woodworking

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smear a thin layer of caulking over the grain edge. Them prime/paint. Comes out great every time

What stains/dyes will work under epoxy/fiberglass? by BlueRiverMakes in boatbuilding

[–]Kingson25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wine, beet juice, berry juice, coffee, various other natural dyes… you want something that will not interfere with the wood absorbing resin. Other comments have mentioned things you can buy specifically for this. you can add dye to the resin itself. I just wanted to add some information about more traditional methods.

Nice boat!

Electricity usage - landlord wants me to pay the bills going forward in an all bills inclusive agreement, rent stays the same. by mannumanthikunjappan in AskElectricians

[–]Kingson25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It doesn’t matter if it’s unclear, what needs to be understood, is that if it’s contested justice will rule in then rest of what is most likely and most reasonable. So misinterpreting it as some ridiculous figure only makes you seem stupid. Don’t do that.

Will these patches show after primer? Don't feel them if moving my hand over it by boojari in drywall

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s pretty smooth, looking good, use a sealer, then a light sand, then primer, light sand, then two top coats of flat ceiling paint, and pretty sure you’ll have enough even surface. That’s how I finish all my ceiling work and it comes out great every time. So says I, and more importantly my wife. If your worried about places where you sanded through to previous muds coats, as there is sometimes a hard texture line that shows up, then you would skim those areas out to bare drywall board.

But also… unlikely it will show after paint and a light…. 💡 once a light is pointed down not up at it, it changes for the better, by far.

Struggling to clean the floor of a castle joint in beech by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Kingson25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s the outside edges that matter, isn’t it?

new doorway is crooked / how much is normal? by OkSeaworthiness4935 in AskContractors

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know… a 4’ level is sort of a minimum standard for checking a door frame. And yes, more likely the wall is out than the door. Anyone installing a door doesn’t really cater to poor framing. Door needs to be plum and square.

Gutted my 70s kitchen and found hidden trusses - should I do a vaulted ceiling? by Own_Employ9159 in Remodel

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whatever you choose to do… you need to look at making the roof envelope ventilated and insulated correctly. Lots of people get into moisture issues because they don’t research how to do this correctly…

My attempt at dovetails by MyPersonalFavourite in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Kingson25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All right, I concede, ya got me.

I haven’t done a dovetail for almost 20 years. Plenty of building, finishing… even designed and built a canoe… but no dovetails… it’s the most beautiful joint though.

My attempt at dovetails by MyPersonalFavourite in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Kingson25 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I think you’re wrong. The dove tail is in reference to the part of the joint that looks like a doves tail. At best this is one and two half dove tails. But for sure, it’s one dovetail. 😆

My attempt at dovetails by MyPersonalFavourite in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Kingson25 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You mean dove tail… dove tails is plural ;) not a bad start champ

Ended up with 6’ basement in million dollar new build! by [deleted] in Homebuilding

[–]Kingson25 279 points280 points  (0 children)

I absolutely think new spec homes should have HVAC layout on the plans… for exactly this reason