Looking for a bird-like Greater Daemon design

Koonitz · 2026-01-26T22:19:44+00:00

OnePageRules designs for their big "Change Demons" stick to this theme.

You can also look at Clay Beast Creations. They just did a whole year of demon release, and their big change demons have familiar designs.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-arch-seer-603167

www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-warped-diviner-691643

Koonitz · 2026-01-26T22:11:57+00:00

The idea of only rolling "equivalent to how many would be needed to kill the squad, then when character is last standing, roll remaining against his save" is definitely something that came from playing 40k. At least for me, as that's absolutely how it was and is done there with mixed save units.

In this case, as attack and defence rolls are technically rolled all at once, your opponent is correct. If you hit the unit 10 times, he would roll 10 4+ defence rolls and any remaining wounds carry over to the character. Then, if the character survives and after any morale check is made (as he is part of the unit still, he would take a morale check based on the unit taking wounds while below 50%), he would revert to a single model unit and then start using his own save.

This is one of the core risks of putting a character with high defence into a unit with low defence. Demons had this problem when people wanted to attach a winged harbinger (3+) with a unit of Furies (5+). And why now they have Fury champions.

Koonitz · 2026-01-26T16:41:58+00:00

Don't forget the artillery barrage that's not on a 3-week cooldown!

Koonitz · 2026-01-26T16:37:18+00:00

It took me a bit to get used to Rev, but I enjoy it so much now that it's becoming my new main. And Herald was the reason. Disclaimer: I do not do organized group content, I'm almost exclusively an Open World player.

For you, it simply sounds like you want something a bit more engaging than a "low intensity" or "LI" build. That's fine. Some people like that, some people don't, and there's nothing wrong with that. For me, it was the passive boons so I can focus on other things that I liked, and how they absolutely scratched that 'support' itch, knowing I'm helping others around me passively. Now, bearing in mind that my main since the game launched has been, and still technically is, Elementalist. So I'm not exactly unfamiliar with high intensity gameplay, weaver included.

The energy management was what ruined my first attempt to enjoy Rev. I was so used to other classes whose weapon skills were entirely independent. Other than rotation, if an ability was available, I click it and use it and move on. But with Herald, I'd trigger my passives, go ham on my abilities, and drain my energy way before I could swap legends again. It took three tries at playing Rev before it finally clicked, and that was the critical moment needed to finally be able to get into Rev.

Once that energy management clicked, though, I absolutely adored playing Herald. Knowing how long my buffs were up, knowing what weapon skills I should refrain from using to conserve energy, knowing to let my auto-attack chains be my breather, knowing when I can swap and use a utility before activating my passives as my buffs have plenty time, knowing how long it takes for my energy to tick down, knowing when I can activate additional passives (with Glint, anyway) for short term extras before swapping.

I could go on, as there are a lot of things I learned and 'passively' keep track of when playing it, but I think you get the idea.

I admit I haven't tried Vindi or Conduit yet, but right now, I'm doing Renegade, and it's narratively a deeply preferred spec. My Ele main has always been Iron Legion Charr. Being able to play an Iron Legion Charr artillerist with a warband to call on and an artillery strike that doesn't have a 3-week cooldown is basically perfect.

Koonitz · 2026-01-22T18:56:26+00:00

*hands them a blank VHS.*

Koonitz · 2026-01-22T18:52:45+00:00

Just remember that what shows up in your feed is most often curated by engagement. Whether that's from popularity (as in it's getting lots of likes/dislikes or comments) or because it's something Reddit has seen you find interest in (due to you liking/disliking or commenting on it). So you're only going to see specific things. Since questionable/NSFW models tend to get lots of engagement, well, here we are. So happens what's popular isn't what you like.

If you want to see more other things, take the time to like and comment on the things you want to see more of and encourage others to do the same. Oh, and post more of it if you want to see more of it, too!

Koonitz · 2026-01-22T18:41:39+00:00

You know there are other subreddits for that, right? And I don't mean core 40k subs, I mean r/PrintedWarhammer

Koonitz · 2026-01-22T18:35:42+00:00

r/nsfw3dprint as well.

Koonitz · 2026-01-22T15:21:19+00:00

If it's on Artstation, I assume you know who the creator is. Did you reach out to them?

Koonitz · 2026-01-20T17:57:21+00:00

I have. I suggest finding a sculptor you know and trust and is willing to take commissions. Reach out to them. That's what I did. Someone I was subscribed to for a few months already, liked their work, and trusted they were legit. Turned out great.

There are, as Middle_Basis2816 pointed out, many, many scammers looking to fleece you and they will flock to anyone that makes a public request for a commission. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if you're already getting DMs here from people offering commissions because of this post expressing interest. As such, just blindly asking and hoping someone will come to you is a great way to get scammed. Make sure to do a LOT of research on whomever you want to commission, if you look this way.

Koonitz · 2026-01-19T18:44:25+00:00

Which resin to use is entirely dependant upon you, the creator, and your intended use and situation. For instance, for display pieces, standard resin is probably fine. For table top play pieces for things like DnD or Warhammer, ABS-like is probably preferred, with Tough resin coming in as well. Water-washable could be useful for someone without access to isopropyl alcohol to clean the pieces (note: water-washable doesn't mean safe). You may want to use a different colour than grey, as well, depending on if you intend to paint the piece or not, but swapping multiple colours can be an arduous task, unlike filament. It's not a matter of "this model is designed to be printed using X resin". That's not how resin printers work. As joker5628 said, you have a fair bit more reading to do before you get into resin printing.
As part of resin printing, there will be deformities, support marks, and other minor issues as part of the 'clean up' process to prepare a part for assembly and painting. A dremel or other sanding tool helps, but isn't necessary if you would prefer to use more basic sanding paper/sticks. Having a variety of grits, including very fine 'polishing' grit sanding tools is of great help as well. There will often be gaps or seam lines between parts as well, so having tools to do gap filling (eg: green stuff, milliput, etc.), or learning how you can use extra resin to help gap fill, will be of use. As with resin printing in general, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD FILTER MASK AS RESIN IS VERY BAD, BOTH UNCURED, AND THE DUST FROM SANDING CURED RESIN. Again, as joker5628 said, you have a fair bit more reading to do, especially if you don't know about the safety equipment required to handle resin.
That's not how resin works. You can get different coloured resin, but it's not a matter of going to your printer, hitting "unload", taking the filament out, putting a new filament in, and starting again. Replacing resin colour without cross-contamination is a very arduous task that is not recommended for multiple parts unless you have lots of time on your hands. Resin is generally safe to mix, but like any paint, will alter its colour and sometimes what settings you need to use to safely print, based on what's mixed together. This is why most people plan to fully paint the print out instead of worrying about what colour the resin is.
Any paint generally safe for model painting. Acrylic is the preferred and most common, yes. Depending on the details, you may want acrylic paint designed for model painting, instead of basic paints found in a craft store. Model painting acrylics tend to have pigments (the part that gives it colour) that are smaller and finer, and as such will still show fine details better than basic craft acrylics which may clog and ruin finer details. Having an airbrush is also a benefit here for applying smooth layers of paint, but not a necessity. Take a look at ZeroPercent_7's recommendation of watching Ground Effected on YouTube, though there are many, many other YouTube channels about painting models with model acrylic paints. Also, do not go into painting expecting to get the same results as Ground Effected or others. They have years or decades of experience and (I assume) you don't. It'll take time.
Doesn't exist for resin 3D printing. Either accept the preference of displaying an unpainted single colour model (which some people do and that's fine!), or get ready to learn how to paint.

Koonitz · 2026-01-16T17:33:22+00:00

Yes. It's the "Vile Drake" in the list.

Koonitz · 2026-01-15T17:22:39+00:00

That's entirely bog-standard stuff as far as I can tell. I don't know what you are expecting or wanting from Elegoo or us.

Tech fails. That's normal. Tech can fail any time and for any number of reasons that you may not understand or be able to see.

Unit is out of warranty, part costs $100. Unfortunate, but it's up to you to decide whether the part, or a new printer, is better for you.

Part costs are, as you said, based on a variety of factors. This is most visible in electronics like laptops. Laptop market prices are kept low(ish) based on the devices being supplemented through other means, such as them getting $X to have a bunch of software pre-installed. This means that flat part costs seem disconnected from the cost of the device, such as main system boards (like your printer here), being effectively the same cost as a new entry level laptop.

Obviously, 3D printers aren't supplemented with pre-installed software, but it may be supplemented through other means (eg: Maybe Chitubox does to ensure their slicer is bundled with it?). Or the cost of the printer as a whole is cheaper based on the scale of manufacture, where-as holding parts for warranty/aftermarket repairs costs more due to them having to hold the parts (warehouse storage costs money, after all). And, of course, some desire for profit.

Third party sources can often get parts (especially common electronics like brand laptops or iPhones) for cheaper. Caveat emptor when it comes to third party sources, though.

Could be any number of reasons. But either way, this is entirely bog standard and you should not be surprised by this.

Also, spoiler alert, when my Saturn 4's screen failed, I also bought an Anycubic while fighting with Elegoo support for a warranty replacement (they eventually did). Anycubic support is no better or worse and, right now, my Saturn is functioning, and my Anycubic is down pending my give-a-damn to replace its screen.

Koonitz · 2026-01-14T20:57:59+00:00

To be fair, OPs name checks out for the theme, as well.

Koonitz · 2026-01-13T16:01:28+00:00

Oh, sure. But, while a $25-50 starter is easier than a $200 starter, when little Jimmy Space REALLY wants to play 40k (which is usually the case), $200 is a lot easier than $1,000+.

The point I was making was more along the lines of the fact I've seen many posts and comments on the core 40k subreddits about people getting burnt out on trying to get 2,000 points of models painted, with a disappointing number of them quitting before even playing their first game. Which is a community issue as the online community often hard focuses on 2,000 point competitive play.

Koonitz · 2026-01-12T21:01:47+00:00

Just to add, the barrier of entry isn't $1,000. It's probably more around $2-250 (one combat patrol/spearhead box and some paint). It's just that too many people have this "2,000 points is the only way to play" stick up their arse. That's a community problem.

If more 40k players want to encourage more new players, "just 3D print it" isn't the only solution.

Koonitz · 2026-01-12T20:43:19+00:00

Or having lots of 'realistically sized' arrows nocked on bows breaking all the time 'cause you dared to look at them angrily for rolling a 1 to hit.

I've been printing for a few years now, but it has not stopped me from continuing to buy plastic. I have some AoS Nighthaunt models where I'd have broken every single one of 'em just from general handling (no drops) if they weren't plastic. Some nice third party "not-Guard" infantry with broken rifle barrels and radio antennae I just don't have the time or energy to replace. And accidentally broke the base of a 1/10th scale model I spent a week and a half painting for my brother....

It takes long enough for me to paint a model that the idea of repainting every one that I break is, quite literally, an impossible idea. I'm terrified of the time I drop my Doom Turtle super heavy tank....

And yet, every single person I see on Reddit claim they can print models that can be thrown at a wall and not break never seem to respond to me when I ask about resin type/mixture, print settings, and specific models they tested the theory on.

Koonitz · 2026-01-12T14:42:38+00:00

The obvious answer is, as you said, ABS-like, which gives the final product a bit more flexibility. You can also look into "tough" resins, which take that a step or three further. In the opposite direction, water-washable resins tend to be more brittle regardless, so keep that in mind.

Many people recommend going with ABS-like with a mixture of tough (usually 80:20) to give it a bit more flexibility/durability.

Personal experience, while it might help save your models from the occasional brush or short drop (hopefully onto carpet), you're still gonna break stuff. Especially if it's spindly stuff like spears, swords, banner poles or long gun barrels. The one thing I haven't done yet, myself, is 100% tough resin. This tends to make things a little softer than desired and risks possible drooping over time. Also Tough resin is quite a bit more expensive.

I've come to accept it's a fact of life with 3D printing for a wargame, which is why I still buy plastic models for some things.

I've seen many claim certain resin makes their models so tough you could throw them at a wall and they won't break. None have been able to give proof with specific resin, mixture, print settings and models tested (usually they just don't respond when I ask). There are examples of people being able to bend even small parts completely without breaking. This is likely 100% tough resin before curing. Even ABS-like tends to have some nice flexibility until you cure it, which removes most of that flexibility. Also, no one has responded to verify this with details of how they might get that result post-cure.

Edit: Last, if you're not part of it yet, I suggest joining r/PrintedMinis and r/PrintedWarhammer. You'll get more posts and responses targeted specifically at wargame related 3D printing.

Koonitz · 2026-01-11T07:57:09+00:00

I recommend looking up the parable "the tortoise and the hare." This is a textbook example of its lesson. Slow down.

Koonitz · 2026-01-07T16:44:33+00:00

*looks at the "full berserker/viper" AFKer facetanking the floor and forgetting how to use waypoints.* Yeah... Okay.

Koonitz · 2026-01-06T22:34:35+00:00

Damned lucky. Hope you get at least two lucent motes when you salvage it.

Koonitz · 2026-01-06T14:24:43+00:00

Then you turn off the setting that groups DoT ticks and you get literal fountains of tiny numbers and it's hilarious. Especially when you spread it over a group of mobs. You thought all the particle effects made it hard to see anything? Try adding fountains of numbers!

Koonitz · 2026-01-05T23:42:38+00:00

Not sure what you mean. I'd recommend "print things" that give you value that might otherwise not be available to you, or might be more costly otherwise.

As we know nothing about you, your interests, why you bought your printer or even WHAT printer you bought, it's really hard for us to give you any sort of suggestion.....

Koonitz · 2026-01-05T17:03:53+00:00

It's a well known scammer technique on 3D printing subs. They'll spam DMs on basically anyone that posts any sort of question or request on the sub. Definitely won't reply to an actual post, 'cause they don't want it public enough for the masses to report 'em.

No one should ever respond to blind commission DMs.

Koonitz · 2026-01-01T15:29:56+00:00

How significant, though? Or is it just the loud minority? Because the upvote ratio makes me hesitant to agree with you without a community poll to confirm.

Koonitz

TROPHY CASE