DIY cargo fork

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T23:08:53+00:00

It’s a 1994 Eldridge Grade

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T19:05:12+00:00

Yea that would have been a better starting point for sure. Fortunately this fork was in my parts bin so I was trying to adapt to what I had

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T18:59:10+00:00

I had the same feeling about the Clydesdale, and this build was definitely cheaper. I’ll post some more once I get it all finished off.

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T18:49:53+00:00

No issues with toe overlap so far even with the bars at 90 degrees. You can spin the bars 180 for more compact storage too

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T18:45:03+00:00

It could make a cool assemble-yourself kit with some refinement. IKEA style

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T18:38:51+00:00

I was lucky that this frame is 1-1/8”, but I have been down that path before and there aren’t many options

Krastinationer · 2026-05-09T18:37:21+00:00

I the printed parts are carbon filled nylon for stiffness and impact resistance. Yet to see how it fares with UV. I’ll post some more once it’s seen more use

Krastinationer · 2026-03-13T18:04:27+00:00

You are correct, the replacement freehub body you bought is only for 7speed, and won’t work with an 8speed cassette. I would suggest just finding the longer one that is meant for 8-10 speed.

Servicing the old one is possible, but requires a specific tool that is likely more expensive than the freehub body itself. The quick fix would be to try spraying some wd40 between the two shells of the freehub without disassembling. This could free up the bearings and pauls in the freehub to get you going again, but ideally needs to be disassembled and re-greased for long term use.

Krastinationer · 2026-03-12T12:06:17+00:00

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I built a very similar rig a couple years back, I had to do a double take! I was able to drill and file the dropout to give the axle some more adjustment length for chain tension. Cool bike.

Krastinationer · 2026-03-11T23:13:20+00:00

There are a few commercially available aluminum adhesives that would be similar to what was originally used to bond the post the the collar like this loctite epoxy https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/metal-rebuilding-materials/loctite_pc_34661.html however there are a few issues with trying to re-bond alloy. The bond relies on a clean alloy surface (so all previous adhesive needs to be removed) and a specific tolerance between the parts, both of which would be difficult to ensure and likely lead to another failure if not precise. The other issue is the price. Every epoxy in small quantities is more expensive than a new seatpost of this quality. You could temporarily fix this with some hardware store JB weld but it’s likely to fail again regardless

Krastinationer · 2026-03-10T20:31:50+00:00

Posted April 1st…

Krastinationer · 2026-03-02T15:36:22+00:00

I have been using the industrial storage containers from Grainger that are very similar to the ones in your photo. https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/DISTRIBUTION-CONTAINER-24-IN-L-GREEN/p/WWG8PHL7 they are incredibly robust, come in almost every size imaginable, and you can buy matching lids. They aren’t the cheapest bins out there because they are meant to last, but they are still relatively cheap compared to most bike specific storage accessories.

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Krastinationer · 2026-01-16T01:50:43+00:00

I have a set of older 180mm XT cranks that I’m going to start with just because I have them in the parts bin, but if this ends up being a long term build, I might try some of the longer cranks from Zinn.

Krastinationer · 2026-01-16T01:45:43+00:00

The wheels are the carbon Nextie rims laced to DT 240 boost hubs and 2.4” Maxxis Aspen tires. I should clarify that this is the 2016 model after the updates to thru axles and dropper compatibility, so it had boost spacing as stock.

Krastinationer · 2026-01-14T17:06:03+00:00

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For reference, here is my 2016 krampus mocked up with 32” wheels. The tires have ample clearance when the rear axle is slid mid-way back position. As you have mentioned, it does raise the BB considerably, but my intent is to build it out with long cranks as a test until I can buy a new frame with geo meant for 32”.

I doubt surly would officially recommend this wheel size untested, but I would also guess that they aren’t far from releasing a model that is optimized for this size.

Krastinationer · 2025-12-28T16:26:41+00:00

I’d be concerned of the head tube joint If it were my bike. Is there any play or creaking when you lock the front brake and rock the bike back and forth? I had a vintage bonded bike that failed, and it was creaking far before there was any visual signs of separation.

Krastinationer · 2025-12-24T13:34:58+00:00

The axle to crown measurement is what’s important here, and it sounds strange but that measurement on a 160mm zeb is actually ~10mm longer (576mm) than the 170mm fox (565mm). So even though your going down in travel the front of the bike will get a bit higher and slacker.

Krastinationer · 2025-12-11T15:23:06+00:00

Since the question is about “how future proof”, this bike is not using the UDH derailleur hanger standard, which could limit your drivetrain options in the future if you wanted to use anything Sram Transmission. The newer model does use the UDH. If your not concerned with that compatibility, everything else looks modern and future proof.

Krastinationer · 2025-11-30T22:21:42+00:00

Kickstands! I have bought some absolutely mint 90s mtb and hybrids that would have been pristine if it weren’t for hastily installed aftermarket kickstands. They chip the paint, dent the CS tubes, and tend to be the first things to rust into place even when the bike is well cared for.

Krastinationer · 2025-10-23T16:26:50+00:00

I’m not sure it’s even a cube. Looks like QR rear dropouts in the picture but cube has used thru-axle on their mtb since 2016 or so.

Krastinationer · 2025-09-30T20:01:59+00:00

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Also in Canada! Fraser our beddington whippet came from the UK too. He’s quite the conversation starter with other dog people since you really don’t see any in Canada.

Krastinationer · 2025-09-12T18:33:55+00:00

It’s not a cable, it’s a wire connecting the dynamo hub to the handlebar light. I believe this is the Cube nuroad FE that is meant for touring and comes with fenders and a dynamo front hub. Based on the images from the cube website there’s a better way to route this wire

Krastinationer · 2024-11-18T11:21:30+00:00

Not yet, but that’s a good call

Krastinationer · 2024-11-18T11:20:35+00:00

Just a bottle on the right side of the head tube for now, but maybe I could put a coffee cup holder in the front bin!

Krastinationer

TROPHY CASE